LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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sroRTHERir travekxbr; 



CONTAINING THE ROUTES TO 



aaflata, <!Eittetiet, antr tje Sprinfls, 



WITH THE 



TOUR OF ITi:vr-I!XTGi:*.AJrD, 



AND THE ROUTE TO THE 



COAL MINES OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

V 



Embellished with nineteen Maps aid. zight Landscapes . 
SECOND EDITION, IMPROVED AND EXTENDED, 



Neto:=¥orlfe 



PUBLISHED BY A. T. GOQ|)RICH. 

J. 'k J. HARPER, PRINTERS". ^ 

\ — 

1826. 



Southern District of New-York, ss. 
BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the 8th day of May, 
in th"- fiftieth year of the Independence of the United States 
of America, A. T. GOODRICH, of the said District, has 
deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof 
he claims as Proprietor, in the words following, to wit : 

The Northern Traveller • containing the Routes to Niagara, 
Quebec and the Springs, with the Tour of Neir- Engl and, 
and the Route to the CoafMines of Pennsylvania. — 
Embellished with nineteen Maps, and eight Landscapes. 
— Second Edition, improved and extended. 

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, 
entitled, "An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by 
securing tne copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the au- 
thors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein 
mentioned." And also to an Act, entitled, "An Act, sup- 
plementary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encourage- 
ment of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, 
and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, 
during the times therein menti(ned, and extending tht' bene- 
fits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching 
historical and other prints.'! , * 

JAMES PILL, 
Clerk of the Smithem District of Neiv-York. 




PREFACE 

TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



The ready sale of the first edition of the Northern Traveller, 
during the last season, has encouraged the publication of an- 
other on the same plan, with an extension of the routes, and 
the addition of many embellishments. 

The present volume, therefore, contains the original tours 
to Niagara, the Springs, and Quebec, much enlarged and im- 
proved; and to these have been added the tour to the 
Coal Mines of Pennsylvania, and that of the New-England 
States, with brief descriptions of several cities, including 
Boston, New- York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, 
and Charleston. The type is small, and the matter com- 
pact; so that the volume, although of a convenient pocket 
size, contains as much matter as an ordinary octayo of four 
hundred pages. 

Material additions have also been made to the embellish- 
ments of the work. Four new landscapes have been engraved 
for this edition, copied from recent drawings, besides three 
new maps, one of which presents a general view of the routes. 
The work now contains eight landscapes and nineteen maps. 

To these have been superadded in a part of the edition, eight 
of Melish's correct and beautiful maps of the environs of Bos- 
ton, New- York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington,Charles- 
fon, Niagara Fall?, and the Sprin!^". 



IV PREFACE. 

As important changes are continually taking place in dif- 
ferent parts of the country included in the tours, only a limited 
number of copies of the second edition have been published, 
proportioned to the number of travellers in a single season ; 
and it is intended to make such alterations and improvements 
in the work, from year to year, as subsequent circumstances 
may seem to require. 

A conviction of the importance of such a work to the nume- 
rous and intelligent travellers who annually visit the northern 
parts of this country, first suggested the publication of the 
Northern Traveller ; and the readiness with which it has 
passed into their hands, for a similar reason, seems to require 
its extension and improvement, that its usefulness may be 
proportioned to its demand. Indeed, it could not be regarded 
as a matter of indifference, that a little work prepared in such 
haste, and necessarily very imperfect, should be again offered 
to travellers of taste and intelligence, as a fit companion and 
a capable guide for an extensive and delightful tour. In 
order to add to the pleasure and improvement of travelling, 
and at the same time to do more justice to the interesting 
scenes with which the country abounds, much care has been 
taken and much labour bestowed, which, should they prove 
pnccessful, will be considered amply rewarded. 



{For particulars, see Index, page 369.) 



PagG 
PHILADELPHIA. 
Tour to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines 9 

NEW- YORK 22 

From New- York to Albany, by Hudson River. . 26 — 42 

Albany to Lebanon Springs 44 — 4S 

Albany to Niagara, by the Canal 50 — 95 

Niagara to Albany, by Stage Coaches . . . 99—120 

Route to the Springs 121 — 157 

Lakes George and Champlain 157—192 & 224—227 

MONTREAL 192 

QUEBEC 208 

Tour of Mw-England 231—272 

BOSTON 287 

Route to the White Mountains 291—317 

Route to Maine 318—333 

Supplement and Appendix 335 — 382 



Page 

Notch House, White Mountains facing Title 

Scenery on the Mohawk River, c 60 

Niagara, from below the Falls 86 

Ballston 140 

Saratoga , 148 

Lake George 161 

Ticonderoga 225 

Mount Holyoke. . » * 255 



M^P^* 



General Map of the Routes 5 

Hudson River, No. 1 26 

No. 2 30 

No. 3 37 

No. 4 and Canals, to Schenectady and 

Sandy Hill 50 

Erie Canal, to Herkimer » 59 

to Salina 64- 

to Rochester 75 - 

toLockport 79 

to Buffalo 99 

Lyons and Palmyra 106- 

Syracuse to Cayuga Marshes.. Ill . 

From Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George. . 158 

Lake George and Lake Champlain ; 170 

Lake Champlain 185 

St. John's to Montreal 187 

Island of Montreal 1 97 

St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec. . . . 208 

Connecticut River, from Hartford to the Mouth. . . . 236 • 

The following maps are also bound up in a part of the 
edition, and may be had with the book, ftdl bound and gilt^ 
for one dollar more, viz. the environs of Boston, New- 
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Charleston, 
Falls of Niagara, and Ballston and Saratoga. 



[ Additions made to the Northern Traveller, 
in May, 1827. ] 



The following pages contain some new and important 
facts, relating to the public works of Pennsylvania, and 
some of the principal routes, interesting to the stranger. 

Pennsylvania Canal. At the close of 1826, about one 
third of this canal had been excavated, (one section of it 
unlocated,) at an expense of about $50,000. Nearly 
^300,000 more were considered necessary for the com- 
pletion of the whole work. 

Fprther Imfrovicments. The Legislature of the state, 
in thetr session in 1827, passed a bill to authorize the ex- 
tension of this work, and appropriated 61.200,000 to be de- 
voted to the purpose in the present year. Several other 
improvements are also authorized by the bill. 

The canal commissioners are to locate the three follow- 
ing branch canals, to meet the Pennsylvania canal at dif- 
ferent points, and to put them speedily under contract : 
1st, A canal from the eastern section up the valley of the 
Juniata, to a point at or near Lewistown ; 2d, A canal and 
other works, from the western section, up the valley of 
the Kiskiminitas and the Concmaugh, to Blairsvillc ; and 
3d, From the eastern section, up the Susquchannah to 
Northumberland. 

They are to make the following surveys: 1st, From 
Frankstown on the Juniata, to Johnstown on the Conc- 
maugh, across the Alleghany mountains, for a railway, or 
a smooth and permanent road ; 2d, Surveys to ascertain 
the practicability of an entire navigable communication 
between the west branch of the Susquchannah and the 
Alleghany river; 3d, Examinations of the respective 
routes from Northumberland up the north branch of the 
1 



2 ADDITIONS. 

Susquehannah to the state line ; from the western section 
of the Pennsylvania Canal, near the mouth of the Kiski- 
minitas, to Lake Erie, near the borough of Erie, by the 
Alleghany river and French Creek ; and from Pittsburgh 
to the same point, by Beaver and Shenango rivers. 

A survey for a canal and rail road is also to be made, 
from Philadelphia through Chester and Lancaster coun- 
ties, to the eastern section of the Pennsylvania canal. A 
survey is to be made down the Brandywine river to near 
the state line, across the high land to Chester Creek, and 
down that creek to the Delaware. If the Brandywine 
cannot be diverted from its channel, to survey a rail road 
across the high land. It is further to be ascertained, 
whether the north branch of the Susquehannah can be 
connected with the Lehigh. Also, to make surveys and 
estimates from the mouth of the Swatara down both sides 
of the Susquehannah to the Maryland state line ; along 
the valley of the Delaware, from Philadelphia to Bristol, 
or some intermediate point, between Bristol and the head 
of tide water and Carpenter's Point. If a canal can be 
accomplished for |12,000 a mile, on that route, it is to be 
contracted for this season. 

Surveys are to be made to ascertain the practicability of 
a communication between the Susquehannah and the Po- 
tomac rivers. 

Examinations to be m^de relating to rail roads from 
Chambersburgh to the Harrisburgh bridge and the Co- 
lumbia bridge. 

Finally, examinations on the route proposed for the 
Schuylkill and Delaware canal, from the Arsenal to a 
point south of the Navy Yard in South war k. 

The provisions of the Pennsylvania canal bill are thus 
briefly given, to show the public spirit of the legislature 
of this state, and to indicate to the intelligent traveller the 
interesting facts which an intimate examination of the 
country will afford, and the numerous attractions which 
will be presented to strangers in Pennsylvania, when 
some of these great public works shall open convenient 
channels of communication through all parts of the country. 

The following are the advantages which are expected to 
be derived from some of these projects, by those who have 
advocated them. 



ADDITIONS. 3 

Much of the trade that formerly went to Philadelphia 
from the western country, it is admitted, now goes through 
the Erie canal. The Juniata route, it is supposed, would 
secure the Pittsburgh trade to Philadelphia. The route 
by the west branch of the Susquehannah will open a com- 
munication to Lake Erie through a fertile country ; the 
north branch canal, to the country to the north state 
line. The Delaware canal would preserve part of the 
trade otherwise to be withdrawn by the Delaware and 
Hudson canal of New- York, (which is now open from 
Carpenter's point to Kingston,) and part of that to be 
taken by th« Morris canal. It would divert much trade 
from New- York. 

Tioga Coals. An abundant mine of bituminous coal 
has been recently discovered near the head of Tioga ri- 
ver, in the town of Covington, Tioga County, Pennsyl- 
vania, which promises to prove highly important, as it is 
hoped it will become, to a good degree, a substitute for 
English and Scotch coals of that description, 

A company has been incorporated by th« legislature oi 
the state, to open boat navigation by a canal or slack 
water along the river, to the line of New-Vork, 15 miles ; 
and exertions have been made to get a company in that 
state to extend the line to Hudson River, but unsuccessfully 
this year. The distances are as follows : 

miles. 

From the mine to the the state line 15 

Thence the proposed Chemung canal to Seneca 
■ Lake 35 

Through the lake by the Erie canal and Hudson 
River to New- York 460 

THE UNION CANAL, 

which leaves the Schuylkill about 5 miles below Reading, 
(see page 13,) has been opened on the whole line, to the 
Susquehannah, 82 miles. The route will be found inter- 
esting. 

The first section passes through a great deal of marshy 
ground, where it was found necessary to bring in earth 
to form the banks, which have in some places sunk 
forty feet. The locks at the entrance from the Schuylkill 



4 ADDiTiONb. 

are protected against the easterly storms by a dock work. 
About 5 miles from that place, near Hummelstown, is 
the Greet Tunnel, which was completed in February last. 
This is the largest excavation of the kind in the United 
States, and presents a fine specimen of human ingenuity 
and perseverance. The execution of it was attended by 
some unforeseen difficulties; it passes through argillaceous 
rock, containing cross veins of flinty limestone, running 
at an angle of 80° with the horizon. 

The middle section reaches to the Deep Cut, which is 
75 feet deep. Not far east from this, on an elevated point, 
the very height of the summit level, is the Great Bridge^ 
with an arch of 175 feet span. On the summit level are 
also the two Reservoirs, which have been excavated by 
art, and are capable of containing 12 millions of cubic 
feet of water. The supply for the summit level is fur- 
nished by water wheels, one of them 36 feet in diameter, 
and a steam engine, of 100 horse power, to raise water 
from the Swatara, where is a dam , 5*07 locks full may 
be raised in a day, 93 feet perpendicular. In 1826 the 
following works were completed : 43 waste weirs, 49 
culverts, 135 bridges, 2 guard locks, 92 hewn stone locks 
cemented with Pennsylvania water lime. The two aque- 
ducts over the Swatara are admirable, being 175 and 276 
feet in length. Beside those there are 1 other aqueducts j 
and the canal has been furnished with walls of stone fur 
14 miles. 

The third section extends to the tide waters of the 
Chesapeake. The whole length of the Union Canal, from 
the Schuylkill, 5 miles below R> ading, to the great basin 
of the state canal on the Susquehannah, is 82 miles and 
6 chains. The Swatara Feeder, leading toivards the coal 
mines, and navigable in the canal boats, 7 miles and 40 
chains. The locks are simple, and will not cause a delay 
of more than 8 or 9 hours in the whole line, which will 
require about 40 hours. 



ADDITIONS. 



THE SCHUYLKILL NAVIGATION- 

(See page 12, J 

The works of the company proved much more useful and 
productive in 1826, than any previous year, and now 
give a fair hope of ere long rewarding the zeal of their ad- 
vocates. More than three times tbe increase of former 
sea'>ons has been experienced in tolls received, and in the 
number of boats used for transporting anthracite coal, 
luiprovernents have been made in the tow paths, in the 
channels of pools, and planking the canal. Adam and 
lock have been built at Poplar Neck, below Reading, tO 
receive the Union Canal. This canal is nearly finished ; 
and (vhcn tbe Pennsylvania canal shall be united with it 
at Harrisburgh, the improvement will be great. The as- 
cending navigation has increased more than the de- 
scending. 

Tolls in 182e. $43,108 87, (of this the ascending navi- 
gation furnished 910,139, nearly one-fourth. In 1825 it 
was only one-sixth.) The income of real estate and 
water rents was, in 1826, $6,371 19 i total income, 
$49,480,6. 

Statement of Articles lohich passed up the Schuylkill JSTavi- 
gation, in 1826. 

Tons. 

Store Goods 2,670 

Iron and Cast Iron 19S 

Plaster of Paris 908 

Lumber 776 

Empty Flour Casks, Kegs, and Hhds 18 

Litharge 11 

Sand 72 



ADDITIONS. 

Tons, 

Household Furniture 39 

Melons and other Vegetables 22 

Bricks 105 

Oysters and Sea Fish 29 

Marble.. 10 

Machinery 7 

Virginia Coal 1,478 

386 Logs. 500 

Total 6,843 



Statement of Articles which passed down the Schuylkill JVa- 
vigation,in 1826- 

Tons. 

Coo} 16,767 

Flour, 21,245 Barrels 2,023 

Grain at?d Seeds 724 

Live Hogs S 

Whiskey 420 

Iron Ore 2,541 

Butler and Lard 41 

Marble and Stone 1,207 

Potash 8 

Nats 3 

Tallow 6 

Iron . 122 

Wood and Bark 54 

Lumber 1,492 

Potatoes 1(5 

Fruit 1 

Store Goods 128 

Total 25,561 

About 100 boats were employed in the transportation 
of coal from Mount Carbon, in 1826, 60 of which were 
added that year. About 60 more are expeeted to be built 

for i827„ 



ADDITIONS. 7 

The Schuylkill navigation is to beextended from Mount 
Carbon to the mouth of Mill Creek: work now going on. 
Dams and locks will overcome the obstacles. A third main 
opening to the coal region there is to be made by the West 
Branch. There are now two : by the Mill Creek, east, 
and centre turnpike in the centre. 

Improvements on the Schuylkill navigation to Mill Creels, 
The river will be rendered navigable by dams and locks^ 
from the mouth of Mill Creek to about twelve hundred 
yards above Messrs. Pott's Iron Works. At that place 
there will be a dam, which will raise the water about two 
feet above Mr. Potts' dam, and the water will be there 
taken out by a canal to run round the end of the Sharp 
Mountain, nearly parallel with the Mount Carbon dam, 
and the upper section of the canal will empty into the 
second dam, nearly opposite Mr. Henry White's store 
house. 

The advantages proposed by avoiding the Mount Carbon 
pool, and making a canal parallel to it, are : 

Firstj That boats coming from Mill Creek, will be able 
to pass down the Canal, without running through and in- 
terfering with boats landing and lying in the Mount Car- 
bon pool. 

Secondly, There will be an additional pool and harbour 
formed for boats, and an opportunity afforded for the 
formation of a great number of new landings. 



ADDITIONS. 



MAUCH CHUNK. 

(Seepage 17.) 



Considerable improvements have been made at this 
thrifty place within the past year. 

There are 800 men employed by the Lehigh Coal Com- 
pany ; but it is supposed that a small part of them will 
be sufficient to accomplish the same amount of labour, when 
the intended improvements shall have been completed. 

The Tunnel through the mountain, which was in pro- 
[;r2ss last year, has been finished. The company were 
disappointed in not meeting the coal bed until they came 
to the other side. The distance however is much shorten- 
ed, and the Tunnel might be used as a canal. 

The Rail Road is going on successfully, and with flat- 
tering prospects. The regularly rising surface is very 
favourable, and wooden logs have been subslitutt-d for 
iron beds, with the saving of a vast expense. The latter 
would have made the cost, at the lowest estimate, $10,000 
a mile ; but the latter will reduce it to 5)11,400. Three 
miles of the mine have been completed, and wagons will 
probably be run on it this season. The consumption and 
demand for the coal has greatly increased during the past 
year. 

The navigation of the Lehigh River is to be improved 
immediately, and a survey was begun, under Mr. White, 
early in the spring. 



Map or the Jioiites 
Dxawii I or tl 




T-? 



^%^^'^'-^^tr:N'TA^^ 



THE 



NORTHERN TRAVELLER, 



THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. — Mansion House, in 3d street, between Wal- 
nut and Spruce. Judd's, 2d, between Market and Chesnut. 

Boarding Houses. — Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ; 
Mrs. Swords, Walnut ; Mrs. Allen, 6th, near the State 
House. 

Philadelphia is the second city, for size, in the United 
States ; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, 
which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and 
are of an equal and convenient breadth. Some of the 
public buildings are worthy of particular notice, as among 
the finest and most correct specimens of architecture in 
the country. 

It will be convenient to the stranger to recollect, that 
the streets running north and south are named First, 
Second, Third, &c. beginning on both sides of the city on 
the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet 
at the square near the centre. The streets which run 
east and west, are generally named after trees ; the lanes 
and alleys, after shrubs, &c. 

The Market. — This consists of a succession of build- 
ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the 
fish market on the river's bank to Eighth-street, affording 
room for a convenient display of the numerous articles 
daily brought in for the supply of the city. 

Post office, Chesnut-st. between Third and Fourth. 

The Bank op the United States, in Chesnut-street, 
between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimeu 
of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built of 
■^hite marble in the form of a temple, with two frontS; 



t> THE NORTHERN 

each ornamented with eight fine Doric columns, of the 
ancient proportions, without bases. Beside the banking 
room, which is large, occupying the centre, and lighted 
through a glass dome, there are many other apartments, 
particularly those devoted to the printing of the notes, 
and that below, which contains the furnace for warming it 
with Lehigh coal in the winter. 

Gerard's Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. This 
building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful row of 
six Corinthian columns. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two fronts, 
on Second and Dock streets, each with six Ionic columns. 
This is another chaste and beautiful building of white 
marble. 

The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth 
and Sixth streets, is a large brick building, with court 
houses, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of the 
main entrance, the old Continental Congress held their 
sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independence was 
signed, July 4th, 1776. 

Above is Peale's Museum, which contains a large col- 
lection of curiosities of various descriptions. The birds 
are very numerous, but not well preserved. The huge 
skeleton of a mammoth will attract particular attention, 
being represented entire, for the parts which were de- 
ficient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of 
those on the other. 

The AthenjEum is adjoining, open all day to strangers. 

The Philosophical Society's Library and Cabinet. 

Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground, 
behind the State House. Opposite to it, in Walnut-street, 
is the State Prison, built of dark stone, and connected 
with a yard enclosed by high walls. 

City Library, Fifth-street, open to the public from 
2 P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's clock. 

Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth- 
street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with 
a range of wooden columns. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admirable 
institution, in the next street, where great numbers of 
sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure admis- 
sion to (he building and gardens, and also to the top. 



TRAVELLER. 7 

West's Celebrated Picture of Christ healing the 
sick, is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite 
side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded 
by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are 
observed many afflicted with various diseases, pressing 
forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman, 
borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a 
striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect ; and the 
painter has given a reddish tint lo her feet, which seem 
to have already felt the miraculous influence. A blind 
man appears behind, led by his sons ; and on the left 
hand is an infant supported by its mother, with a poor 
blind girl and other figures. Near the centre is a 
lunatic boy, rather too shocking a subject for such a pic- 
ture ; and a number of Jewish RaLbis are collected, 
with countenances expressive of violent passions. 

The apartment is admirably calculated for the display 
of the picture, which is universally considered one of the 
finest and most interesting in the United States. 

The Theatre, in Chesnut- street, between Sixth and 
Seventh streets, has a marble front, with the entrance 
under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy and 
Tragedy. 

The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat 
in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. 

The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth 
and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, busts, &c. 
in marble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted 
from the top ; and beyond, a gallery of pictures with 
many specimens of the works of American artists, par- 
ticularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous, that of 
the dead body restored to life by the bones of the prophet 
Elisha. 

Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite tha 
State House, and contains fine pictures. 

The University contains a medical department and the 
Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. 

The Orphans' and the Widows' Asylums are in the 
western part of the city. 

Academy of J^at. Sciences. Penn's house, Letitia court. 
United folates mint, &c. &c. 



■5 THE NORTHERN 

There are two medical institutions in this city, where 
lectures are delivered to great numbers of students. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylumy is a valuable institution ; 
as is the Friends' Mms House in Walnut-street, between 
Third and Fourth, where poor families are placed in sepa- 
rate houses, among small gardens, and furnished with 
employment. 

Mr. Bedell's (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, and 
Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered the finest in 
the city. The latter is in a kind of Gothic style. 

The bridge over the Schuylkill, the Water works, and 
Pratt's garden, are objects worthy of particular notice ; 
and as they lie a short distance from each other, may all 
be visited at once. The former reaches over the river 
with a single arch of feet. The road near the bank 
leads up to the others. 

The Schuylkill Water works. Pipes more than 15 
miles ; expense of raising, $4 a day. There is a large 
stone building of chaste architecture containing five large 
water wheels, which are capable of raising 7 millions of 
gallons in 24 hours. They are turned by a current from 
the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill above, 
which is higher than any part of the city, and supplies all 
except the Liberties. They both contain 11 millions of 
gallons. The steam engine is no longer used. The Keeper 
demands nothing for showing the works. 

Stage Routes from Philadelphia. (See the end of 
the volume.) 

Route prom PHILADELPHIA to NEW^YORK. 
(Seepage 18,) 



TRAVELLER. 



ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 



In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal 
between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, at a distance 
of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadelphia, that 
tract of country has become an object of great interest ; 
and since the travelling has been recently improved by the 
construction of roads and canals, and the establishment 
of good inns, stage coaches, and canal boats, a jaunt in 
that direction is now a very common and fashionable one. 

The journey may be performed to the Coal Mines by- 
two routes: either by stage coaches along the course of 
the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers, or in the canal boats on 
the Schuylkill. The latter is recommended, but from 
Mount Carbon, the head of navigation, to Mauch Chunky 
35 miles, the road is passable only in wagons. By going 
thence to Easton, you find stage coaches to the Erie canal 
and 'New- York city. In the tract of country above 
described, are found inexhaustible quantities of coal, 
in elevated ridges and mountains of the Alleghany 
range, which are supposed to be connected with those 
which are known on the western side of the range, 
although they are of different characteristics. The 
western coal is easily combustible, and resembles that im- 
ported from Liverpool, &c. while the former is hard, 
very difficult to kindle, and burns with tery little flame. 
It is, however, of great purity, being of that sort known 
to geologists by the name of Anthrocite, and is now very 
extensively used for fuel in Philadelphia, and even in New- 
York. It, however, requires a fire place on the plan of a 
furnace, and a little experience in managing it. The va- 
rieties of this coal come down in a kind of rude square 
boats, called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 inches of water, 
but containing about 250 bushels each, which may usually 
be seen on the shores of the Schuylkill, and at the docks 
in the Delaware. The coal which goes to New- York 
is transported in sloops and schooners ; but a canal 
lias been begun through New-Jersey, which will fa- 
2R 



10 THE NORTHERN 

ciHtate the communication. It is only 3 or 4 years 
since this coal was supposed to be entirely worthless ; 
and now the demand is enormous.* 



* General Remarks on the Public Works of Pennsylvania. 

The first turnpike ever made in America was made in Penn- 
sylvania ; and now there are nearly 2800 miles of the best 
turnpikes in the Union, accomplished at an expense of $8,000, 
000! 45 stupendous bridges have been erected since the 
year 1800, at an expense of $2,800,000! and $5,000,000 have 
been expended on the inland navigation, (the Schuylkill navi- 
gation $1,951,483, the Union Canal, old and new, $950,000, 
the Lehigh $600,000 ; the stock, old and new, in the Chesa- 
peake and Delaware Canal, OAvned by Pennsylvania, $700,000; 
the Conewango Canals and the other improvements on the 
Susquehannah, &c. being a total of about $5,000,000 for inland 
navigation,) in addition to the sums now exiiending. The 
aggregate length of the Union Canal and the Schuylkill and 
Lenign navigations, now completed, is about 21 1 miles ; and 
the lockage, &c. double the amount of the Erie Canal of New- 
York. The above sums expended by Pennsylvania, for roads, 
bridges, and inland navigation, have been about $16,000,000, 
in addition to the county roads, and in addition to the immense 
sums which have been expended on other objects, and in addi- 
tion to the large sums now expending. Phil. Paper. 

A steam boat communication is to be opened from the Sus~ 
quehannahto Lancaster ; to be completed on July 4th, 1827. 
The distance is 18 miles. There will be 9 dams and 9 locks, 
each about 7 feet lift ; and the whole expense is to be, by con- 
tract, $63,240. 

Proposed PcuJi^ylvania, or Susquehannah and Alleghany 
Canal. 

The canal commissioners of Pennsylvania, in 1825, made 
surveys of routes for a canal to meet the waters of these two 
rivers ; the general estimates of which were as follows : 

1st From the Susquehannah to the Juniata, 267 miles, inclu- 
ding a rail road of 28 miles, $3,045,900, 160 locks. 

From the mouth of the Juniata to Pittsburg, tliree routes 
were surveyed. 

Northern route, 353 miles, 260 locks, $4,324,100. 

West Branch route, 365 miles, 200 locks, $3,846,700. 

Clearfield Creek route, 394 miles, 310 locks, $4,754,200. 

The natural difficulties are so great on some parts of the 
routes of the Pennsylvania Canal, that the whole work will 
probably not be immediately commenced. There is a portion 



TRAVELLER. U 

The whole length of the line of navigation, undertaken 
by the Schuylkill company, is 108 miles ; and the work is 
considered the greatest ever performed in this country by 
private individuals. It commences at the Lancaster 
Schuylkill bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon. 62 miles 
of it are by canals, and 46 by pools in the river. The 
number of houses for lock keepers, is 65, the number of 
locks below Reading, 39, (toll 6^ cents) and above 
Reading, 81, (toll 4 cents) being in the whole 120, of 
which 28 are guard locks ; overcoming a fall of 588 feet. 
Toll on a ton $11 35^ cents. 

The obstacles which ihe surface of the country presents 
to works of such a nature in this state, are unusually great, 
as may be supposed, when it is remarked, that eight ranges 
of mountains pass through Pennsylvania from north-east 
to south-west, and that the height of land is supposed to 
be 8 or 900 feet in the lowest place, so that the rivers de- 
scend very much in their courses. It has been necessary 
to make more lockage on the Schuylkill line, than on the 
whole Erie Canal in New-York. Beside this, the coun- 
try is of the transition formation, with sloping strata, 
which causes much leaking. 

In 1825, the expense had amounted to nearly 3 mil- 
lions ; and it was expected that another million would be 
required to complete the navigation. The articles brought 
down, are coal, lumber, limestone, iron ore, with flour, 
and many products of agriculture and manufacture. 

The amount of tolls collected in 1825, was only $15,775 ; 
but jthe canal was open only a part of the season. 

ROAD TO THE COAL MINES. 

The stage coach starts for Easton every Sunday, Tues- 
day, and Thursday ; and returns the following days. It 
goes from Field's, in Race- street, between 3d and 4th 
streets. 



of 53 miles, however, which is of much easier execution ; and, 
it has been suggested, should be first imdertaken. This is the 
eastern part of the line, where only one route has been pro- 
posed, and would extend the navigation from the termination 
of the Union Canal into the interior of the state , 



12 THE NOKTHERN 

Philadelphia to Easton, 56 mile«, 

Rising Sun, 4 

Branchtown(Child'stavern) 6 



Shoemakertown, 


8 


Jenkintown, 


10 


Abington, 


12 


Willowgrove, 


14 


Horsham, 


16 


Graham park, 


22 


Newville, 




Doyleston, 


26 


Danville, 


29 


Roderick's tavern, 




Tohicken bridge, 




Artsville post office. 




Easton, (See page 16.) 


56 



GANAL ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 

The canal boats start on the Schuylkill at regular hours, 
for which the traveller is referred to the newspapers. A 
carriage will be necessary, as the boats lie at the western 
extremity of the city. 

Manatunk 

Is a large manufacturing village, which began to be 
built only about 1319 or 1820. The manufactories are 
furnished with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through 
which the boat will pass. In 1825 there were six build- 
ings of this description, some of them 150 feet long, call- 
ed the Flat Rock, Woodville, &c. Manufactories. Keat- 
ing & Go's, is intended for 6000 spindles, with water 
looms for weaving. 

The building is 202 feet long and 45 wide. 

Water power is still sufficient for an immense number. 
There is an oil, paper, and grist mill at this place ; and a 
considerable village formed of the dwellings of the work- 
men, stores, &c. This tract of country is very rich in 
water falls. The county of Delaware, which is very 
small, contains about 130 inanufactories of different dc- 
.•scriptions, moved by water. 



TRAVELLER. 13 

Passing from the canal, the boat enters the Flat Rock 
Basin and the river. 

Plymouth Locks. Here is a canal about t of a mile 
long. A little below it is a large spring which supplies a 
mill. It yields such a surprising stream of water, that it 
was once proposed to conduct it to Philadelphia for the 
use of the city. The marble quarries are also in this 
vicinity j from which stone is sent to the same place. 

NORRISTOWN. 

This place contains some fine houses, as well as a court 
house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic style, 
which stands in a conspicuous situation. A cotton manu- 
factory or two will be found here ; but the village is on 
the side of the river with the canal. 

The Sluice. This is a place where the current of the 
river was very rapid, and required a dam — 4 miles from 
Norristown. Catfish Island Dam, 1 mile. 

Reading, 54 miles from Philadelphia. This is a place 
of considerable importance, inhabited by Germans, and 
contains some handsome public buildings. The Ifnion 
Canal begins near the town. 

From Reading, the road passes for some distance near 
the river, and affords an opportunity to see the canals, 
dams, &c. made to assist the navigation. It passes near 
Duncan's Job, a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 
feet down. This place is 5 or 6 miles from Reading. 

The road to Hamburgh from Reading, lies through the 
Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania , which has the 
Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue 
Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully varied by 
the natural undulations of the surface ; and the road af- 
fords a very fine succession of beautiful scenes, where the 
well-cultivated farms are usually backed by ranges of 
fine mountains. The inhabitants dwell in good, and often 
handsome houses, while their great stone barns speak 
good and thorough husbandry. 

The Mountain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high. 

Hamburgh. 

This is a small village with nearly an hundred houses, 
with a church situated in a romantic position, at the en- 
trance of the 



U THE NORTHERN 

ScHUTLKiLL Water Gap. This is a narrow gorge, 
through which the river runs over a steep and rocky chan- 
nel for 4 or 5 miles ; leaving no room upon its banks, 
which rise abruptly on each side to the height of several 
hundred feet. The road has been cut out along the face 
of one of these ranges, at a great elevation ; where the 
surface is in many places of such a declivity, as to require 
it to be supported by walls of stone. The views which 
are here afforded to the traveller, are romantic and varied 
in a high degree ; presenting the woody mountains in 
diflferent directions, with the course of the Schuylkill 
winding through them. There is a spring which passes 
the road, remarkable only as the boundary between two 
contiguous counties. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the prin- 
cipal stream, runs through a valley of the same general 
description ; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. 
The country will hardly admit of any cultivation ; and 
few inhabitants are seen. 

Iron Works. The iron works of Mr. Old are situated 
at the termination of this valley, on a small meadow, shut 
in by mountains : a wild and secluded scene. The pro- 
prietor has a handsome house ; and the shops and dwell- 
ings of the workmen are numerous. The scenery be- 
yond retains its interesting character. 

The Tunnel. This is a place where a hill has been 
bored through 375 yards for a canal, about 3 miles from 
Orwigsburgh. 

Orwigsburgh, 

About 9 miles from the Gap. This village is 3 miles 
distant from the river, and enjoys an agreeable situation, 
although the soil is not very good. It is rather largei* 
than Hamburgh, and contains a court house, jail, &c. 
The German language here prevails, and is used in the 
church as well as in the ordinary concerns of life. 

MOUNT CARBON, 

S Miles ; is in sight of several coal mines. This is 
sometimes called Pottsville, but there is a place on the 
Schuylkill known by the same name. The village is very 



TRAVELLER. 15 

small, and there is another at Pott's Forges of about the 
same size. 

The coal country in this region begins in Luzerne, on 
the upper part of the Lackawana River, following its course 
to the Susquebannah, and along that stream, principally on 
the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wilkesbarre. It 
runs south to the Lehigh River, and thence south-west, 
through Schuylkill county. 

It is estimated to extend about 100 miles ; and about 
the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing 
narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal 
occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running 
east and west, and dipping to the south at 45°, with a 
slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone 
and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of 
coal, presents the impressions of organized substances 
at some ancient period imbedded in its substance : such as 
the leaves of laurel, fern, &c. 

In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into 
the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts to 
the depth of 150 feet, with lateral excavations, east and 
west, of various lengths to 300. It will be remarked that 
nature herself has furnished a natural roof and floor for 
the mines, by placing two parallel strata of slate rock 
above and below, the former of which requires only the 
assistance of logs to secure it from falling in. Two small 
carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to 
bring the coal out, being made to descend by turns ; but 
in the horizontal one, which has been carried in about 
500 feet, they employ wheel barrows. Some of the veins 
run perpendicularly. 

There were ten or eleven coal mines worked at Mount 
Carbon in 1825; which employed from 5 to 30 work- 
inen each. Some of them are worked nigbt and day. 
The coal is dug out with wedges, drills and sledges, &c. and 
as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and nothing else 
but labour in digging and raising it, the advantages are 
not confined to capitalists. Wagoners are ready to trans- 
port the coal to the landings, and put it into boats. 

This place has heretofore been the limit of this *' Route 
to the Coal Mines," lately become so fashionable ; but it 
is to be presumed that the tour will be extended as far as 
Wifke?barre. returning bv Mauch Chunk. 



16 THE NORTHERN 

EASTON. 

This is a village of some size, and a central point froia 
wliich numerous roads diverge, and stage coaches run in 
various directions. 

The following is a list of distances from Easton on the 
different stage routes. New- York, 70 miles ; Scholey's 
Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; New-Brunswick, 45 ; 
Bethlehem, 12 ; Mauch Chunk, 34 ; Nazareth, 7 ; Dela- 
ware Wind Gap, 12 ; Water Gap, 20 ; Stroudsburgh, 27;, 
Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 j Reading, 52 ; New- 
town, (Sussex county,) 40. 

From Newtown a coach runs three times a week, to 
Montrose, Owego, Ithaca, and Geneva, and communicates 
with the Erie canal, and with the direct route to Buffalo. 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal, 

Was begun July I3th, 1825. It is to lead from the 
Saw Mill Rift along the Delaware and a branch to the 
Wall Kill, and down that stream to Kingston. 

The road to Mauch Chunk leads through BETHLE- 
HEM, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place in a roman- 
tic and delightful situation, along the course of a swift run- 
ning brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little Eng- 
lish will be heard spoken in the place. There is an old 
church and an academy for the education of girls, under 
the management of the Moravians, to which sect the in- 
habitants belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the country 
begins to assume a more mountainous appearance ; and 
along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a height of 
seven or eight hundred feet, or even more. The wild 
scenery which the road passes is of a very impressive 
character. 

The village on the Lehigh has rapidly grown from a few 
solitary dwellings to a place of much business, containing 
a large store belonging to the Lehigh coal company, the 
houses of the two Superintendents, and dwellings for 
800 people. This is the place to which the coal is brought 
from the mines, 9 miles, loaded into arks or square boxes 
which float upon the river, each with 250 bushels of coal. 
The road to the mine is excellent, winding among the 
mountains, with a regular ascent of 100 feet to ever.v 



TJiAVELLER. 17 

mile, except one where it is nearly level. It is intended 
to make a rail road here next year. Two miles from the 
river a tunnel has been dug nearly through the mountain on 
the right hand, with the intention of opening a new mine 
which had been discovered on the other side ; but they 
have not yet reached it. The' excavation is through a 
breccia of a peculiar kind of quartz. 

A brooiy runs by the road side for two miles, with a 
rapid descent and a succession of little water falls, adding 
much to the pleasure of the ride. 

MAUCH CHUNK, 

Is a very interesting place for the stranger, both on ac- 
count of the scenery and the remarkable nature of the coal 
mine. The mine, or quarry as it ought, perhaps, proper- 
ly to be called, opens upon the road by three passages cut 
S or 10 feet deep in the earth. These conduct into an area 
150 yards long and 90 wide, and from 8 to 35 feet in depth, 
formed with great regularity, by the removal of about 
30,000 tons of coal, which have been dug out in such 
a manner as to keep the surface on an inclined plane, 
where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out at the 
other passage. The coal is very hard, pure and black, 
with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and perfectly clean 
in handling. The middle, an area 50 yards across, has 
been dug down about 20 feet deeper, and to it there is 
another entrance from the road. 

The surface of the ground was covered with a coat of 
sand 2 feet thick, interspersed with sand stone ; under 
that was 8 feet of black pulverized coal ; and then came 
the coal itself. Near the road is a mass of slaty coal in 
undulated strata which is of inferior quality. 

Near the south or further side of the mine, some beauti- 
ful impressions of fern leaves have been found in the rocks. 

The Hotel is a large and commodious house, and the re- 
sort of much company during the pleasant season. 

The Lehigh coal has been introduced into Philadelphia 
for fuel within the last four or five years, and into New- 
York within two. Before, it was commonly considered of 
no value ; but it has been used occasionally by individuals 
near the mines for more than 30 vears. 
r 



18 THE NORTHERN 



ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 



The steam boats go from Market and Arch street 
wharves. 

Leaving Philadelphia, in the steam boat for New- York, 
the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the little 
island in the river. Near the upper part of the city are 
the ship yards ; and beyond, three glass houses near the 
water, with white walls and black roofs. A steeple and a 
shot tower are the principal objects rising above the great 
mass of houses in the city. 

The banks of the Delaware are low, and present an 
uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The 
towns are, however, interesting in the history of the 
revolution, as will be seen a little beyond- 

BURLINGTON, 

In New- Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents 
a handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences 
facing the river, in front of which is a street with a beau- 
tiful sloping bank. 

BRISTOL, 

A little above, and on the opposite side, has also a 
number of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome floAver gar- 
dens on the bank, one of them ornamented with a few 
vases, &c. 

BORDENTOWN, 

28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 below Trenton, stands 
on a steep sand bank, through which a road is cut to the 
water. Just north of the village is the house of Joseph 
"Bonaparte, the Count de Survilliers. once kin^ of Spain. 



TRAVELLER. 19 

It is a long white building with two low square towers at 
the ends, and a shot tower near it by the river. 

TRENTON, 

33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Union Line 
steam boats stop, except when the water is low ; when 
they sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton is a 
town of considerable size, with a great number of stores, 
and the aspect of business. 

Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and 
apparently forms a part of Trenton. 

The State Prison is situated a little south of the 
town. 

Delaware and Rariton Canal. The route for a 
canal between these two rivers, was determined in 1825. 
It is to lead from the Delaware at Lamberton through 
Trenton ; and passing the Lawrence meadows, and along 
the valley of Stoney Brook and Millstone Brook, follow the 
course of the Rariton for some distance before it joins it. 
It is lo be 60 feet wide, with 8 feet of water, correspond- 
ing with the Chesapeake and Delaware canal. The feeder, 
40 feet wide with 5 feet of water, is to begin on the Dela- 
ware, nearly opposite the mouth of the Lehigh ; and with 
the main trunk, will measure 84 miles. The summit 
level is 48 feet. 

The portion of New Jersey lying between Philadelphia 
and New- York, was of great importance in the revolu- 
tionary war. A great part was, for a time, occupied by the 
British, and it was the scene of bloodshed. 

In Dec. 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east 
side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- 
horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Prince- 
ton and New Brunswick, with their magazines. 

On Christmas night, three divisions of the American 
troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol 
for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine 
miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was 
the largest, but principally militia ; it approached Tren- 
ton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unexpect- 
edly, and putting the English and German troops (about 
1300) to the rout. 500 escaped ; the rest surrendered, 



'20 THE NORTHERN 

being the regiments of Ralle, Anspach, and Knyphausen. 
Ralle was killed in resisting. The other divisions could 
not cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned 
with his captives and six pieces of artillery. This suc- 
cessful stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was 
the first victory over those German mercenaries. 

Washington, soon after, recrossed the river, and posted 
his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan. 1777, Lord 
Cornwallis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified 
himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too weak to 
hazard an engagement ; and theDelaware being filled with 
ice, he resolved, if possible, to change the nature of ths 
war, and place the enemy on the defensive, by threatening 
his magazines and his line of communication. 

Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed the plan 
of a retreat, expecting to be unable to remove any- 
thing but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the 
soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and 
wet, that wagons could not pass. Cornwallis had sent 
to Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might 
attack the Americans immediately. In the night, how- 
ever, Gen. Greene reported that the weather had suddenly- 
become cold ; and at midnight, Washington was able to 
begin his march, with all his baggage and artillery. This 
was done, and all the fires left burning. The British had 
no intimation of their departure until they heard the guns 
firing at Princeton. 



This village is situated on an elevated ridge of land, 
which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope, 
and commands a prospect of considerable extent. 

In approaching it from the west, the Theological Aca- 
demy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the 
right ; and the old one in the centre of the town, opposite 
the stage house. The college yard is large and shaded 
with trees ; and the burying ground contains the ashes of 
the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, Jonathan 
Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John Wither- 
spoon, and Samuel S. Smith. 

During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a 



TRAVELLER. 21 

canon shot entered the cbapel, and tore away the head 
from a portrait of George IIL 

NEW BRUNSWICK. 

Here the steam boats start for New- York. The stage 
coaches drive through a part of the village to the steam 
boat wharf. The forenoon line stops at the hotel for the 
night. 

The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence the 
public buildings appear to good advantage, particularly the 
Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of the 
Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below are pictur- 
esque, but afterwards are low and little varied. 

In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near 
Morristown to Middle Brook, where he entrenched him- 
self, on the heights, in full view of New Brunswick. The 
British tried various stratagems to decoy him from this 
commanding position, and once succeeded ; but discover- 
ing their intentions to surround him, he quickly regained 
it, and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes 
of penetrating in this direction, and devoted their atten- 
tion to co-operating with Gen. Burgoyne, who was coming 
down towards Albany. 

Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship- 
ping ; but the place has little to attract observation. 

Elizabethtown Point, 15 miles from Neiv-York. 
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. 

Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few in- 
habitanta, and a small cluster of houses. 

On entering New- York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in 
the Narrows, between Staten and Long Island, which is 
the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass of 
houses, with Castle Williams on Governor's Island, seen 
near it on the right ; and Ellis's and Bedlow's Islands on 
. the left, with their fortifications. On approaching, the 
prominent objects are the tall pyramidal steeple of Tri- 
nity church, the more ornamented one of St. Paul's, and 
the distant top of the Catholic cathedral, &c. Lc. The 
clusters of trees observed on the shore in front of the city, 
are on the Battery: a place once fortified, but now the 
principal public square ; and Castle Clinton, just west of 
it, has been converted into a place of amusement, 
C2 



22 THE NORTHERN 



THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

Hotels, and Boarding Houses. Mansion HousCj 
(Bunker,) 39 Broadway. City H^tel. National Hotel. 
Franklin House. Washington Hall, corner of Broadway 
and Reid-street. Park Place House. Mrs. Southard, 
Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, &c. There are several other 
genteel boarding houses in the pleasantest part of Broad- 
way, near the Bowling Green and Battery. 

The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of 
the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as without it 
he will often find himself at a loss, and with it can go to 
any part with confidence. 

The BATTEP..T is a pleasant walk in warm weather ; and 
Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On summer evenings 
the place is supplied with music, and often fire works. 

Broadway, the most fashionable promenade in the city, 
is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 3 o'clock ; 
or in hot weather, after dinner. Going up it from the 
battery, you pass the Bowling Green, then the Mansion 
house, Grace church, and Trinity church. 

The property of this church is very great, lying in large 
tracts of land now covered by the city streets. (Opposite, 
opens Wall-street, which contains most of thebanks, with 
the Branch of the U. S. Bank, together with numerous 
Insurance and Brokers^ Offices. At the foot of it is the 
Tontine CotTee House, for many years the exchange of the 
city ; a little above which, is the new Exchange, a building 
of white marble, begun in 1825. The post office is in 
Garden-street.) 

Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is the 
City Hotel ; opposite, the JSTational Hotel ; and a little fur- 
ther. Cedar and Courtland streets, leading west to the docks 
on Hudson River, whence the Albany steam Joafs start. At 
the latter street is also the Jersey city ferry — Is. 

The Franklin House, corner of Dey-st. and Broad- 
way. Fulton-street leads to Fidton Market, on the east 
river. (There is the loioer Brookhjn ferry, (4 cents ;) at 
the next dock below, are the J^eioport and Providence 
steam boats ; and just above, the steam boats for Flushing, 
J^Torwalk, Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford, Saybi^ook, Hart- 



TRAVELLER. 33 

ford, J\'ew London^ and J^orwich. The sUanx boats for 
Jsfew Haven lie at Fly-market dock, two or three streets 
below. For the " Route from New- York to New-Eng- 
land," see Index.) 

St. Paul's Church in Broadway is next above Fulton- 
street. Just beyond, is Pnff^s exhibition of Pictures, then 
the Park, on the opposite side of which, is the Theatre, 
and the Bible Society^s Depository in the rear. Park 
Place on the left, leads to Columbia College ; and the 
City Hall is in the Park, with the Debtors* Pnson on the 
east, and Bridewell on the west. Murray-street leads on 
the left to Hoboken ferry — Is. 

The New- York Institution is behind the City Hall, 
with Scudder's fine Museum, the Gallery of Fine Arts, 
Historical Society, Mr. TrumbuWs and Mr. Dunlap's 
Painting Rooms, the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. The 
Saving's Bank directly opposite. Next these is the 
Panorama Rotunda, and opposite the Manhattan Water 
Works. Chatham-street beyond, leads to Barriere^s 
Theatre, 

Next beyond, in Broadway, is Washington Hall ; and 
two or three streets above, the Jfew- York Hospital. 

This fine, broad street, continues about a mile further 
on, perfectly straight, and nearly all built with brick 
houses ; but contains no public buildings, except the Cir- 
cus, a quarter of a mile on the right-hand, a new Gothic 
church, and the Sailors^ Snug Harbour, an hospital. 

There is also in the city an Orphan Asylum. 

A fine part of the city lies north-west from the hospital, 
about Hudson Square. The streets are there more regu- 
lar, and the square itself is very fine, with St. John's 
church in front, which has the tallest spire in New- York. 

Among the other public buildings, which it is not easy 
to point out more particularly, are the Roman Catholic 
cathedral, and the numerous places of public worship in 
all parts of the city. These amounted, in 1824, to 84 in 
all, and are probably now very nearly 100. The State 
Prison, Penitentiary, Fever Hospital, House of Refuge for 
Juvenile Delinquents, Lunatic Asylum : these are all at a 
distance from the centre of the city. The Common School 
Society have ten school houses, where 4 or 5000 chil- 
dren are instructed on the Lancasterian svstem : either 



-44 THE NORTHERN 

gratuitously, or at a trifling expense of from Is. to 9*. per; 
quarter. The High School receives scholars in higher 
branches. The Sunday Schools deserve particular notice 
for their usefulness; also the Mechanic Society's 
School. 

The AxuENiEUM is a literary institution lately formed. 
The City Library is large, and there are others belonging 
to the Societies of Merchants' Clerks, Apprentices, &c. 
There are Circtilating Libraries at several of the book 
stores in Broadway. 

The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty? 
and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its efficiency; 
and usefulness. There are 42 engines, besides two Hookc 
and Ladder companies. 

The City Hall contains the common council chamber, ,1 
with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, Jefferson, and I] 
Thompson ; the court rooms, police office, &c. &c. The J 
top commands a fine view of the city ; and access may '} 
be had on applying to the keeper. 

The Liverpool Packets are fine vessels, and some of ' 
them among the most elegantly furnished ships in the 
world. They lie at different docks in the east river ; and 
sail on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month, and 
returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. The letter 
bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee House. — 
6d. for every letter. 

Excursions. Numerous pleasant excursions may be 
made from New- York in various directions. Manhattan 
Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long Island 
and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. 

Bath, Rockawat, and Gravesend, on Long Island, 

and Long Branch, in New-Jersey, 

Fine situations on the seacoast, are among the most 
attractive for bathing, &c. 

Orange Springs near JSTeioarJcy and Scholet's Mountain. 
These are very fashionable resorts during the warm sea- 
sons, particularly for visiters from New-York. The sit- 
uations are very pleasai:t, in variegated tracts of country ; 
and afford a most agreeable retreat, with fine air and 
2,*aod accommodations. 



TRAVELLER. 25 

TO THE COAL MINES. 

A stage coach goes in a day from Powles Hook to 
Easton. (See Easton, page 16.) 

There is a Direct Road to Buffalo, through Ithaca. 

The following list of books and maps is given for those 
who may wish for more details concerning the northern 
states than we are able to furnish in the present summary 
view. 

BOOKS. 

History of the New- York canals. 

Smith's history of New- York. 

Picture of New- York and Stranger's guide. 

Dr. Dwight's Travels in the New England states and 
New- York. 

Professor Siliiman's Short Tour to Montreal and Que- 
bec, in ISmo. 

Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus's Letters on the New- York Canal. 

Fashionable Tour, or a Trip to the Springs, Niagara and 
Quebec. 

The Northern Tour, being a Guide to Saratoga, Lake 
George, Niagara, Canada, Boston, &c. 

Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New- York. 

SpafFord's Pocket Guide to the Canal Route. 

Gazetteers of New Hampshire, Massachusetts and 
Vermont. 

Yates and Moulton's History of New- York. 

Description Topographique de la Province du Bas Ca- 
nada, avec des remarques sur la Haute Canada, et sur les 
relations des deux provinces d'Amerique. Par Joseph 
Bouchette. 

Eddy's Map of the State of New- York. 
Vance's Map of the Western part of the sam.e. 
Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River. 
Bouchette's maps of Canad;^. 



26 THE NORTHERN j 

ROUTE FROM NEW- YORK TO ALBANY. 

The elegant steam barges Lady Clinton and Van Ren- 
selaer are most convenient, safe and agreeable, and are 
recommended. 

The following steam boats ply between New- York and 
Albany. 

Saratoga, Chancellor Livingston, James Kent, Wm. 
Penn, Olive Branch, Bristol, Henry Eckford, Constitu- 
tion, Constellation, and Chief Justice Marshall. 

There are also others to intermediate places. Most off 
the Troy and Albany boats, however, stop or touch at t 
those places. These boats lie about the docks from i 
Courtlandt to Cedar-street. 

There is a great difference in the charges of the boats, 
but the accommodations travellers will find on board of i 
them are generally good, except when they are too much 
crowded with passengers. Strangers will generally prefer ; 
the large ones, because they are furnished with an upper 
deck, called the promenade, which is sheltered from the 
sun by an awning, and affords a much more uninterrupted ! 
prospect, as well as better air. As two or three will go 
every day, and the traveller can choose better for himself, 
it is unnecessary to make any further suggestions, except 
that ladies particularly will prefer the barges, unless they 
are too much crowded. 

The Henry Eckford runs to Albany with two boats for 
freight. Passage ^l. 

Cautions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him for 
his number^ so that if be is negligent or dishonest, he may 
be reported at the police office. It is best to go to the 
steam boat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of de- 
parture, to avoid the crowd which always collects at the 
dock. A traveller is too often pressed upon by imperti- 
nent fellows, who recommend their own vessels, and urge 
him to take passage in them. Such things ought never 
to be permitted by the proprietors, although they are ri- 
vals ; neither ought they to allow the throngs of porters, 
cartmen, &c. who rush in upon deck as soon as the boats 
arrive, both here and at Albany, to the annoyance of the 
passengers, and the exposure of their property. All tra- 
vellers should remonstrate against so unreasonable a prac- 
tice ; and if any of the proprietors should see this state- 



IXrortli 




V. }L~.t'^r Eru,'- NY. 



TliAVELLER. iy 

meat oi" the grievance, it is to be hoped that they will be 
convinced of its justice, and the necessity of reformation, 
•which would benefit themselves as well as their passen- 
gers. 

PASSAGE UP HUDSON RIVER. 

On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in 
the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lies be- 
hind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams pro- 
jecting beyond ; still more distant opens the passage called 
the Narrows, with Staten Island on the right, leading to 
Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles 
from the city. On the west side of the bay are Bedlow 
and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point at the 
mouth of the Hudson is Powles Hook, on which stands a 
small town in New-Jersey called Jersey City ; and the 
village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. 
The bills of Weehawken appear beyond : as the boat moves 
rapidly on, it passes the crowded line of buildings in 
Washington-street, the State Pnso7i, and the JsTorth Bat- 
tery. 

At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the river, 
and about the distance of 6 miles from the city, is the 
spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel 
with CoL Burr. A monument of white marble was erect- 
ed to his memory on the place ; but it has been removed 
within a few years. This is the common duelling ground 
for combatants from the city, and many lives have been 
lost on this fatal spot. 

The Palisadoes — a remarkable range of precipices of 
trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the river 
on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and form a singu- 
lar, and in many places an impassable boundary. In seme 
places an old red sand-stone foundation is seen appearing 
below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the mu- 
ral precipices of the trap formation, and rises from the 
height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. 

Many little paths will be seen, by which timber is made 
to slide down to the water ; and some where carts can go 
up obliquely. The trees on the loftier parts of the shore 
appear quite (hviirfish at such an elevation ; and the rocks-. 



26 THE NORTHERN 

in many places, form a perfect wall ; from whose surlace, 
large masses are often forced off by the frost in winter. 

The eastern shore of the river opposite the Palisadoes, 
is for many miles handsomely rounded with hills, and pre- 
sents many scenes of cultivation, which contrast with the 
rude cliffs on the left. The soil is inferior ; and the wood 
land encroaches too much upon the fields and orchards. 

The Lunatic Asylum is seen on the other side, about 
7 miles from the city ; and is a large building of hewn 
stone, occupying a commanding situation. 

Harlaem Heights are a short distance further. They 
form an elevated ridge across Manhattan Island, on which 
a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolu- 
tion and the late war, quite over to the East river. 

Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on 
the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the 
river. 

Fort Washington, nearly opposite. 

Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high 
rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from 
New- York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington 
had evacuated the city ; and, subsequently to the battle of 
White Plains, (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off 
his army to Fort Lee, opposite this place. Fort Washing- 
ton was kept garrisoned, contrary to his advice ; and was 
attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeck- 
ers under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north 
side ; Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light 
infantry and guards, intended against the intrenchments, 
which reached almost to the east river. Col. Sterling 
made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while 
Lord Percy, with a very strong corps was to act against 
the western flank. 

The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in pass- 
ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions in 
driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur- 
rendered, to the number of 2600 men, including militia. 
They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800. 

Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the British 
crossed so speedily at Dobb's Ferry, that they took the 
artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the Ameri- 
can army. 



TRAVELLER. 29 

Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, sooa 
after the American troops evacuated New- York ; while 
Gen. Washington had his army assembled at Kingsbridge, 
and the British were in possession of the island up as far 
as Harlaem, Gen. Howe came up the East river, with an 
intention of surroundifie; the Americans. He left his 
German corps at New Rochelle, and marched for the high 
ground at White Plains, several miles east of che Hudson, 
to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut. 

Washington penetrated his design, and entrenched him- 
self on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his 
right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. 
He had garrisons near Harlaem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort 
Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British ap- 
proached very near ; when Washington assembled all his 
troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, 
with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a 
mountainous region in the rear. The right was more 
accessible ; and Gen. M'Dougal was sent to entrench 
himself on a mountain about a mile in front. 

On the morning of Oct. 28th, the British advanced in 
two columns: the right by Gen. Clinton, and the left by 
Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck 
road and the latter on the Bronx, — the armies being a 
mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell upon 
Gen. M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front 
with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the regular 
troops resisted until overpowered. The British deter- 
mined to wait; and on the following morning, finding the 
American position much strengthened, and a height in 
the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more troops 
and erected batteries. Washington, therefore, retired to 
North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge over 
the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed to Hudson. 

Fort Indefendeivce, on the east side. Opposite the 
Palisadoes are of still greater height. 

Dobb's Ferry, 10 miles. This is the best point to stop, 
if the traveller intends to visit the Grave of Andre, as the 
spot is only 21 miles distant, in Tappan. His remains, 
however, have been carried to England. 

Tarrttown, ^ miles. This is the place where Major 
Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Ar- 
T) 



30 THE NORTHERN 

nold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was 
then neutral ground, as the Americans and English lay 
encamped above and below. The tree is still standing un- 
der which his captors searched him, and the bank near by 
had concealed them from his view as be approached 
them. The previous life of this interesting young officer, 
together with the amiableness of his disposition, the re- 
finement of his education, and the melancholy and igno- 
minious fate to which he was brought, by one of the un- 
happy concurrences too often produced by war, spread a 
deep and universal sentiment of sympathy throughout this 
country, which time will never obliterate, and which will 
be only perpetuated by our history. 

For a detail of the circumstances connected with Major 
Andre's capture, the reader is referred to a brief history 
of them, introduced in the account of West Pointy a few 
pages beyond. 

The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance 
beyond this place, and 40 miles from New-York. This 
is a region no less remarkable for the important military 
events of which it has been the theatre, than for the gran- 
deur and nobleness of its natural scenery. In pointing 
out the various positions as we pass along, we shall give 
them all a notice, but endeavour to enlarge only on those 
whose history demands a more particular attention. 

Stont Point. The little rough promontory on the 
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, 
was a fortified position during the American war. The 
British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again 
the same year. 

Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the 
site of a fort ; but is now ornamented %vith a handsome 
private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are 
tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many 
fine trees. 

FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, 
5 miles. 

These forts were taken by Sir -Henry Clinton, on the 
6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-op^-ate with 
Gen. Bur2:oyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. 




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TRAVELLER. 31 

Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity to 
force his way to Hudson river, by effecting a diversion in 
his favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New- 
York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and 
landed at Verplanck's Point. The next morning a detach- 
ment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in the 
rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Put- 
nam, and garrisoned by lOOO continental troops, part of 
whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. 
Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Ver- 
planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expedition 
to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river, and made 
preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their 
real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Montgo- 
mery and Clinton, which are near each other, and 
were attacked at the same moment. Governor Clinton, 
however, and his brother, Gen. James Clinton, had ar- 
rived just before Lt. Col. Campbell, with 900 men, at- 
tacked the first of the forts, and Sir Henry Clinton and 
Generals Vaughan and Tryon the other. The fighting 
began between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and 
lasted till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 
men, the forts were surrendered ; but all the garrison who 
were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the go- 
vernor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The British, 
proceeding to West Point, removed the chain which had 
been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of 
their ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wal- 
lace, went up to Kingston, with General Vaughan and his 
troops. Although they found the village defenceless, the 
officers ordered it to be burnt, on the 13th of October. 
The British proceeded no further than that place ; for the 
news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days 
afterward, the fleet returned to New- York. 

Anthony's Nose. This mountain rises 1228 feet from 
the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery 
Creek, looking down upon Forts Montgomery and Clinton. 
Behind the latter is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those 
were thrown who were killed in their defence. Beyond 
is the way by which the British troops approached, by 
way of Smith's Clove. Fort Putnam, West Point, &c. are 
visible above, 



32 THE NORTHERN 

The Catskill mountains are in sight, apart of Connecti- 
cut, the Green Mountains, with a noble view down the 
Hudson, extending to New-Jersey, and Har'aem Height:?, 
Long Island Sound, &c. Even the Lunatic Asylum in 
New- York can be discovered. The mountain is accessi- 
ble on both sides, and it is proposed to erect a house of 
entertainment upon it at the expense of $40,000. 

The military stores collected at Peekskill were seized 
by the British in January 1777. 

As the steam boat proceeds, several points are observed 
projecting into the river, some distance above ; and West ^ 
Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the 
ruins of Fort Putnam elevated on a commanding emi- 
nence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water level. Of 
the latter, travellers have frequently remarked, that it is the 
only object in the United States which deserves the name 
of *' a ruin ;" but in the view of an European, probably, its 
claim would not appear very substantial, as the elements 
have begun their devastations upon it within thirty or 
forty years. It is, however, as imposing in size as in po- 
sition ; and the view it commands over its wild and moun- 
tainous neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our 
history, will render it worthy of a visit. There are still 
three or four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the 
place is so often visited, that the path is plain, and leads 
to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress 
commanded at once the river above and below West Point, 
and the passage into a defile which opens through the 
mountains westward. That defile was farther defended 
by numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks 
around it. The summits near Fort Putnam (then Inde- 
pendence) were also occupied, but were not fit for ex- 
tensive works, although more elevated. The large hewn 
stones used in its construction, it is said, were taken 
from the shore at West Point, and carried by men up that 
tiresome ascent. During the war a fort stood on the op- 
posite side of the river, called Fort Constitution. 

Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot 
is still shoT/n where he cultivated his little garden. 



TRAVELLER. 33 



WEST POINT. 



This ivas a military position of great consequence in 
the war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the 
point, just over the river, to command the channel, while a 
strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore be- 
low, to the opposite side. This was taken up by the Bri- 
tish when they went up to Kingston. Just round the 
point, near the margin of the water, is the cold spring, 
from which the troops stationed there were supplied with 
water. 

The Military Academy op the United States 

is located ai West Point ; and a more delightful situation 
for such an institution could hardly have been selected. It 
is designed for the instruction of young men destined for 
the army ; and secondarily for maintaining the military 
science in the country. The Academy was established in 
1802 by Gen. Williams, and extends onlj to the instruc- 
tion of Cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250 ; 
and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolu- 
tionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those chil- 
dren of officers of the last war, whose fathers are dead, 
the next. In 1825, there were about 30 professors, in- 
structers, and assistants. Some of the Cadets affiard as- 
sistance in instructing, for which they receive additional 
pay. The law prohibits admission under 14 years of age. 
It has been made a subject of complaint, however, that 
too large a proportion of those admitted are the sons of 
wealthy parents not designed for the army, while the poor 
are almost debarred from the gratuitous advantages of 
such an education. 

The level on which the buildings of the institution are 
erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap- 
pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The 
annual expense of the institution to the United States is 
$115,000. The sum paid for the education of a cadet is 
about $330 per ann. The library consists of a large and 
valuable collection of books, on the various branches of 
military science, which have been obtained with great as- 
siduity and no small expense from Europe, 
O 2 



^4 THE ISfORTHEIlN 

The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all 
large, and built of stone. There are, besides, six brick 
buildings for the officers and professors ; near the water, 
some old military store houses, which contain arms, &c. 
used in the revolution. The barracks were lately burnt. 

The course of study is completed in four years, each 
being devoted to a class ; and includes the French lan- 
guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, 
chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and 
national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and 
lastly, artillery and engineering. 

Study concludes each day at 4, P. M. and is succeeded 
by the parade, which lasts till sunset. 

One of the particular spots worthy of attention, is 
Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion, on the east side of the 
river, which was made the head quarters of the several 
officers who were at different periods invested with the 
command of this important part of the country. It was 
resorted to at different times by most of our distinguished 
revolutionary men, and is the place where Arnold was 
stationed when he so basely deserted his country's cause. 

In September 17S0, while the British held possession of 
Hudson River up to the borders of the Highlands, and 
Gen. Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was 
carried on by him with the British officers on the subject 
of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their 
designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting 
should be held. 

Andre was sent undercover of the night from the sloop 
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, 
to a place which had been appointed for the conference. 
A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by 
Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an ho- 
nourable treaty with Great Britain, and he accompanied 
Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove, 
on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen. 
Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to 
appointment. 

So long was this interview in coming to a close, that the 
day dawned about the time of its termination, and the 
approaching light put it out of the power of Maj. Andre 
to pass in safety the posts at Verplank's and Stony Points. 



TRAVELLER. 35 

He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, and 
change his dress for a plain disguise. 

General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under the 
name of John Anderson ; and on the following evening 
he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a guide. 
They rode that night to McKoy's, after going eight or nine 
miles ; and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Cro- 
ton River. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded 
alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American 
lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was 
discovered by three men, who were concealed from him 
behind a bank ; and one of them suddenly stepping from 
under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bri- 
dle. Andre was put off his guard, either by a sense of 
security, or surprise, and thoughtlessly demanded where 
he was from. " From below," replied the man, meaning 
from the British party. " So am I," replied Andre ; arid 
he immediately informed him of his being a British offi- 
cer, travelling on urgent business. 

When he discovered that the strangers were New- York 
militia-men, on a scout between the lines, he offered his 
watch as a ransom for his liberty ; but having searched 
his clothes, they found proof of his designs, and refused 
to release him- They found in his boots a description of 
the works at West Point, with returns of all the forces of 
the garrison, in the hand writing of Arnold. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger 
was immediately sent to General Washington ; and, at An- 
dre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold to in- 
form him that Anderson was taken. The latter messen- 
ger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as he learnt the 
truth, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang into his 
boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the 
Vulture. He appeared agitated, but the cause was then 
unknown ; priming his pistols again, and inquiring if 
they had arms on board. He tied his handkerchief to 
his cane, and used it for a signal in passing the forts. As 
soon as Gen. Washington was informed of Andre's cap- 
ture, he despatched Col. Hamilton to Verplanck's Point to 
stop him ; but he arrived too late, and Arnold escaped on 
hoard. . 

On the 29th of September a board of ofljcers was ap- 



36 THE NORTHERN 

pointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced Ytiiu 
to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to thi& 
sentence, on the ground that Andre had been introduced 
into the American camp under the passport of one of our 
officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being made the con- 
dition of his release, and that being refused by the British, 
he was kept in prison until the 2d day of October, when 
he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his body was 
afterward interred. 

The feeling which this necessary but melancholy event 
produced in the minds of our countrymen, was sincere, 
deep, and permanent ; and those who acknowledged that 
the sentence was just, and his fate in those circumstances 
unavoidable, lamented the ignominious death of a man 
of such a noble, inteiesting character, and one who had 
risen to a distinguished station at an early age. His life 
was published and widely circulated in the United States; 
and there is scarcely a child to be found at this day, who 
has not mourned over the sorrowful taie of Major Andre. 

A few years since the British government sent to this 
country to obtain his remains, which were removed to 
England and placed in the family vault of the then Prince 
Regent. A cypress tree which grew over his grave was 
likewise removed to the garden of the present king. The 
roots of this tree were found to have twined themselves 
about the skull. 

At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several 
remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, for 
v/hich he is referred to the Map. Putnam's Rock was 
rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party 
of soldiers directed by General Putnam. 

Newburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, 6 
miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build- 
ings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the river 
to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communica- 
ting, by a steam boat, with the great western turnpike at 
Cayuga Bridge. 

Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of 
one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill 
v/hich slopes handsomely to the shore. 

A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the Che- 
munk Springs, 



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TRAVELLER. 37 

EiSHKiLL Mountain. — The summits, called North and 
South Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a dis- 
tance of 4 miles, command a fine view over the surround- 
ing country, and the river, which appears, interrupted by 
the Highlands, like a number of lakes. It has been pro- 
posed to erect a house there for the accommodation of 
visiters, and the place affords a convenient garden spot, 
with a fine stream, which would furnish a supply of wa- 
ter for baths ; and a little to the east, a cavern, which 
always contains a quantity of ice, even in the warmest 
weather. Fort Putnam is in sight, and it is said that land 
may be seen in seven different states. Many villages, as 
well as the river, are included by the view, particularly 
that of Matteawan, a manufacturing place. Wappinger's 
Creek has a beautiful island at its mouth, well stocked 
with rabbits. 

PouGHKEEPSiE is worthy of a particular description, as 
it is a place of considerable importance, and has a singu- 
lar situation. There are three or four rough and rocky 
projections on the shore, which break up the streets of 
the village, and are partly occupied with houses and gar- 
dens. The effect is peculiar. 

For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular 
elevation, but are cut through by several streams, which 
afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed 
at their mouths, where a sloop or two receive their car- 
goes of timber or produce for New-York. 

THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

As the traveller proceeds, he at length discovers the dis- 
tant ridge of the Catskill mountains, which limit the view 
in that direction for many miles, and form a grand feature 
in the scene. On account of their great elevation, they , 
seem less distant than they really are ; and although they 
present so imposing an appearance when directly opposite, 
they no where approach nearer to the river than 8 miles, 
and in some places retire 15 and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains is per- 
formed by great numbers of travellers ; and indeed has 
become so favourite an enterprise, that it may very pro- 
perly be ranged among the principal objects in the great 



3S THE NORTHERN 

tour wliich we are just commencing. The visit may be 
accomplished in one day, though two or three may be 
agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand and 
beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood, par- 
ticularly in observing the break of day and the retiring of 
the sun from that lofty height. There is a large and com- 
modious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Or- 
chard, one of the peaks of the mountain, about 3000 feet 
above the river. It is visible from the steam boat, and 
the ascent to it is performed without fatigue, iiv a stage 
coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a day. 

The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where 
begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking the stage coach 
here, for $1 you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass- 
ing a good inn at the distance of 7 miles, and then begin- 
ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road 
that affords much wild scenery and many a glimpse at the 
surrounding country. Five miles of such travelling brings 
the visiter to 

The Pine Orchard. This is a large and singular 
plain, about a mile and a half long, and nearly a mile 
broad, 3000 feet above the river, covered with a growth 
of forest trees, and furnished with a house of great 
size, and two stories high, built for the accommodation 
of visiters. The view which it commands towards the 
west and north is extensive and grand. The Hudson is 
seen winding from afar through its verdant valleys, its 
margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened 
with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately below 
is seen a region of uncultivated mountains, which is stri- 
kingly contrasted with the charming aspect of fertility that 
reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill and 
vale, town, hamlet, and cottage. 

The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much company 
during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the attrac- 
tions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence of 
agreeable and refined society. Individuals of taste and 
leisure, and still more, parties of travellers, will thus often 
enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be found in a place 
naturally so wild and ditFicult of access. 

The, Round Top is a sunimit of great elevation tO' 



TllAVELLEH. 39 

wards the south, from which the view is more extensive. 
It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

Thk North Mountain, however, is the finest point of 
view of all, being about 3,804 feet higher than the ocean, 
and overlooking a large tract of country on the north- 
west, which is not in sight from the other. On the 
west side of the river is seen part of the counties of 
Albany, Greene, Ulster, and Orange ; and on the east, 
part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Columbia, 
and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the east belongs 
partly to Taughkannuc and Saddle Mountains, in Massa- 
chusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Mountains in 
Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of hills in 
the western counties of Connecticut. The eye embraces a 
tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in 
breadth j and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists, 
to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past 
age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier 
presented at the Highlands, before the present chasm had 
been cut for its passage. 

The rich cultivation of Dutchess county, proverbially 
fertile, will be dwelt on with great delight ; while the nu- 
merous vessels continually skimming over the Hudson, 
may serve to remind the spectator of those vast and pro- 
ductive regions which nature had made tributary to other 
streams, but whose wealth has been diverted by art into 
the same broad channel. Many of the vessels which 
navigate the Hudson are freighted with the productions of 
Lake Erie ; and the stranger may, perhaps, have an oppor- 
tunity to see them gliding by to New-York, regardless of 
the wind, as steam boats are now employed expressly for 
that purpose. 

Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Manor, 
which is one of the few great aristocratical estates existing 
in this part of the country. It contains a tract of about 
14,000 acres. 

The Cascades. There is a singular and highly roman- 
tic scene which has been intentionally reserved for the 
last. At the other side of the Fine Orchard are two fine 
cascades, which the visiter must not fail to see, even, 
if he should neglect to ascend the north or south summits. 
A path leads through the woods to the cascudes, Tmssin«; 



40 THE NORTHERN 

near two small lakes, from which the supply of water i* 
derived. They are small, but so shut in by rude and wild 
mountain scenery as to render them very striking to the 
stranger. 

The Lakes lie very near each other, and communicate 
by a small stream. They are probably about a quarter of 
a mile in circumference each, and remarkable for their 
appearance. The stream which flows from the second 
lake runs to the western extremity of the Pine Orchard, 
where the level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and 
shelving precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge 
between ridges of gloomy mountains. The whole scene 
is on a vast and imposing scale. The gulf is gloomy, and 
the steep ascents on both sides are entirely clothed with 
forests. Just at the feet of the spectator the stream rushes 
along and springs from the rock, in two successive cata- 
racts, into the deep and narrow valley below. The first 
fall is 175 feet, and the second 80 : both perpendicular, 
"without a single protruding rock to break the snow-white 
sheet. 

A building is erected on the left hand, where refresh- 
ments may be obtained ; and on the right is a steep path 
by which even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of 
the falls. 

There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the 
shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 
throws a dark shade around him, which sets oft', in the 
most beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. Mr. Cole, 
a young artist of great promise, made a delightful picture 
of this scene in 1S25. It has been exhibited in New- 
York. 

At a little distance the stream takes its second leap into 
a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that place, it is seen 
rushing tumultuously along over a steep and rocky chan- 
nel, winding between the bases of the mountains until it 
gradually sweeps away towards the south, and disappears 
among the rude scenery that surrounds it. 

On a fine summer day, the splendour of the scene is 
greatly increased by the depth of the lights and shades, 
as v/ell as the forms and motion of the mist, which the 
wind is continually bearing off from the water falls ; and 
the brilliancy of the rainbows with which they are often 
decked bv the b^ams of the ?un. 



TRAVELLER. 41 

After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes like 
tbese, the traveller will return to Catskili to take the next 
steam boat ; and by making the necessary arrangements, 
he can proceed up the river with very little delay. 

THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5h miles. 

This is one of the largest and most important towns on 
the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the 
eastern bank, with several ranges of large stores built 
near the water's level. On the brow of the ascent from 
the water is a favourite promenade, from which a charm- 
ing view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Catskili 
mountains. The western shore is variegated and beauti- 
ful, and contains the village of Athens. 

If the traveller wishes to proceed directly to J^Teip-Le- 
banon Springs, this is the proper place to leave the steam 
boat ; as there is a direct road leading to that place, and 
a stage coach goes twice a week. The distance is 28 
miles. Hudson is 117^ miles from New- York, and 27i 
from Albany. 

There are some fine country seats in this neighbour- 
hood. 

The OvERSLAGH, 4 miles from Albany, is a place where 
the large steam boats are obliged to stop when the river is 
very low, because the water is much more shallow be- 
yond, A small steam boat is then sent down to take out 
the passengers and luggage ; and, at the hour of depar- 
ture, comes down with the passengers for New- York. 

Improvement of the J^avigation of Hudson River. 

A company was incorporated by the state Legislature in 
1826, for improving the navigation of the Hudson. $14, 
000 were to be appropriated for a machine, for deepening 
the channel from Troy, to below Coeymans. The Hud- 
son Ship Canal Company, was also incorporated at the 
same time, with a capital of a million of dollars. Their 
design is to make a ship canal on the east side of the 
river to near New Baltimore. 
F, 



42 THE NORTHERN 



ALBANY, 145 miles from New- York. 

Inns. Rockwell's Mansion House, in North Market- 
street ; Skinner's ; Cruttenden's, on Capitol Hill ; Bam- 
man's, South Market-street ; and Fobes's, near the steam 
boat wharf. The best houses in Albany are large and 
well kept, and the stranger will find excellent accommo- 
dations, provided the city is not too much filled by the 
session of the Legislature, or some other extraordinary 
occurrence. The charges, however, are very high in this 
city, and form a mighty contrast with the moderate de- 
mands for food, lodging, &c. in the inns along the course 
of the canal, and in the canal boats themselves. 

Routes from Albany. Stage coaches run daily to- 
wards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fi-e- 
quently set off in the same direction. Indeed the num- 
ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd of 
travellers is pressing towards the Springs. By steady tra- 
velling, you may go to Buffalo in three days, 296 miles. 
Two or three steam boats go daily to New-York ; small 
packet boats go on the canal to the Junction, 8^ miles ; 
and a large and convenient one used to go every day to 
Schenectady, 28^ miles, but it is uncertain whether it will 
be continued. The circuit and delays occasioned by the 
locks, make the passage consume a -ti/hole day. The 
freight boats of the Erie and Ontario Transportation 
Company are very numerous, and have been lately fitted 
up very comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a 
less price than the regular packets. 

Strangers travelling to the Springs or Canada will be 
pleased with a route which was opened hence to Ballston 
and Saratoga in 1825, by a line of coaches to the Cohoes 
Falls, a canal boat thence to Clifton Park, and a second 
line of coaches onward. As this route is travelled only a 
part of the season, it will be best to make inquiries con- 
cerning it. Dinner was furnished on board the boat in 
1825, although cooked in another boat cajled the "Betsey 
Cook." 

For the Route to Niagara, see page 50. For other 
routes, &,c. see index ; also " Remarks" at Ballston 
Springs. 

Th<:i Capitol, or State ITou.se, occupies a commanding: 



TRAVELLER. 43 

position, and contains the Assembly and Senate Cham- 
bers, the Supreme Court, County Court, &c. &c. It is 
115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On the op- 
posite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more 
than a century as a cantonment ; and the now deserted 
lines of barracks are clearly seen from the State House. 
This is the first point worthy of notice, connected with 
the colonial wars against Canada. At Greenbush, the 
troops supplied in quotas by the eastern colonies, used to 
meet those of New- York ; and hence they proceeded, un- 
der commanders appointed by the British government, 
against their enemies in the north. 

The Academy, just north of the Capitol, is a large in- 
stitution for the higher branches of education. 

Albany received a great impulse during the late war 
■with England, on account of its local position : but peace 
brought with it a fatal stagnation of business, the effects 
of which are still apparent in some parts of the city, al- 
though the more natural and wholesome prosperity which 
alreadv begins to flow in through the canal, has done much 
to obliterate them. Population in 1825, 15,954. 

The Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank, and the Albany 
Bank, both at the foot of State-street, are handsome 
buildings of white marble ; and the latter is lighted by a 
glass dome. State-street deserves to be mentioned, on 
account of its remarkable breadth and fine appearance. 
At night, the lamps there make a very fine show. The 
Museum is in South Market-street. For the Basin, see 
page 43. 

There is a fine Wateifall about 8 miles from Albany, in 
a south-west direction, which has recently attracted many 
visiters, aud is well worthy of attention. The first part 
of the way is over a sandy turnpike road, through a fine 
plain ; after which Nordman's creek opens with a very 
pretty appearance, the view being bounded in front by a 
mountain covered with forest trees, and the level near the 
stream laid out in fine farms, and well populated. The 
falls are on a branch of Nordman's creek ; and although 
they present no perpendicular descent of any considerable 
height, the water dashes over a great number of little 
precipices in quick succession, which break it up into a 
sheet of foam ; and the spot itself is of quite a romantic 
rharacter. 



44 THE NORTHERN 



LEBANON SPRINGS, 25 miles east from Albany. 

New Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful 
resorts for strangers, in point of situation, being in 
this respect incomparably superior to either of the great 
watering places Saratoga and Ballston. It is acces- 
sible with facility from different directions, and possess- 
es strong attractions in its rich and beautiful scenery, being 
situated on the side of a fine amphitheatre of hills and 
mountains. The approach from almost every side is 
through a diversified region, offering many prospects of 
fertile vales and commanding eminences, covered with 
green, and frequently cultivated to their summits. Among 
all the places which might have been selected for an agree- 
able residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to 
please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none per- 
haps could have been found more eligible than that we arc 
about to describe. 

The village of New Lebanon is situated in a little val- 
ley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from the 
two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich and 
graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is 
almost a perfect level, which contrasts delightfully with 
the bold sides of the uplands, some of which are divest- 
ed of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields 
and farms, presenting a rich variety to the eye wherever 
it turns. 

On the aide of a hill about two miles east from the vil- 
lage, and about half-way to the summit of the ridge, issues 
out a Spring of clear warm water, which, although pos- 
sessed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the place 
much of its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious 
hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course. 

In coming from the west, the Shaker Village opens 
just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approaching 
the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to 
the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and 
laborious. 

The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, $8 per 
week, and at other seasons ^7. Near the Spring is a Bath 
House, containing warm, cold, and shower baths. 



TRAVELLER. 45 

A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the 
hill above the house, the path to which lies through the 
garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed 
over the surrounding landscape. A still more extensive 
sight maybe obtained from the summit of the hill, by fol- 
lowing the road for a considerable distance up, and then 
turning off into the fields But the former point of view 
will be most frequently taken by visiters, on account of 
the facility of access. On the south-east is the road to 
Northampton ; south-west, the most extensive scene, and 
the road to the Shaker Village ; west, village of New Le- 
banon, and road to Albany and Troy ; north-west, the 
side of a fine sloping hill, well cultivated, and near at hand. 

Distances. To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. (This 
is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
Lake George, &c.) To Hartford, 69 miles. 

The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much es- 
teemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature of 
72° Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed to pos- 
sess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an ex- 
amination of the following analysis given by Dr. Meade, 
and quoted by Professor Silliman : Two quarts of the Le- 
banon water contain 

Sulphate oflime, \\ f | Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic in. 

Carbonate of do. f | Atmospheric air, 8 do. 

5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natu- 
ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which 
flow from the same hill. It resembles very much the 
Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so warm; 
and the Bristol water is another example of tepid water 
almost entirely without mineral qualities. Professor Sil- 
liman compares the scenery about Lebanon Springs to 
that of Bath in England. It is however graduated more 
on those principles of taste which habit cherishes in an 
American, as it abounds far more in the deep hues of the 
forest, and every where exhibits the signs of progressive 
improvement. Few places can be found in this part of 
E2 



46 THE NORTHERN 

the country, where the views are so extensive and grand, 
at the same time that they embrace so many rich and 
swelling slopes, with so many a scene of neat, beautiful, 
and productive husbandry. 

Messrs. Kerr & Hull's house at the Springs, is very 
large, commodious, and elegant ; and, during the past 
season, accommodated 300 persons at one time : probably 
as many as any public house in the country. The attend- 
ance and table will be found excellent, and Saratoga and 
Baliston waters may be obtained at the bar. It stands 
close by the spring, and is furnished with batbs supplied 
with the water. The old house has been put in complete 
repair, and fitted up anew ; a very large addition was built 
to it in 1824, which attracted vast numbers of visiters to 
the place in both the succeeding seasons. The first house 
measures SO feet, and the new one 130 : 5 stories high. 
They stand in the form of an L, and a fine piazza runs 
along them both, measuring 220 feet. The place now 
vies (vith Baliston and Saratoga, and has sometimes count- 
ed more visiters than either of them. The stranger will 
here find the same amusement and gaiety growing up in 
the fashionable season, and witness the same round of 
arrivals and emigrations, with a similar decline as the 
leaves begin to change. 

Roads from Lebanon Springs. 

From New Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is a very 
good road, through a variegated country. Distances as 
follows : to Nassau, 14 miles ; thence to Troy, 18. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage 
coach goes thither twice a week. The following is a table 
of distances on the road to Boston : 

Pittsfield, 7 miles. 

Hinsdale, 9 

Peru, 4 

Worthington, . 6 

Chesterfield, 6 

Northampton,* 13 

* Northampton is a beautiful town on Connecticut River, 
and well worthy of a day's delay at least. Mount Holyoke 



TRAVELLER. 47 

Hadley, 3 

Amherst, 4 

Belchertown, 7 

Ware, 6 

Western, 8 

Brookfield, 6 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, .11 

Worcester, 6 

Framingham, .10 

Boston, 21—134 

The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, is 
an object of attention to most visiters. The village itself 
presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as it is 
situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the utmost 
regularity. The fields are divided by right lines, fenced 
with the most substantial materials, and cultivated with 
great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading principle with 
the society, to allow of no private property : all the pos- 
sessions of those who join them are thrown into the 
common stock, and submitted at once to their peculiar 
system of life and government. Celibacy they insist upon 
as indispensable j and they profess to banish the love of 
wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all its degrees, 
from their territories. 

So much has been lately published on their peculiar 
doctrines, that few words need to be said here on the 
subject. Not that their principles are very perftectly un- 
derstood by the public ; on the contrary, few indeed can 
be said to comprehend them, even among the society itself. 
It may, in fact, be doubted, whether two persons could be 
found who would give the same representation of the sub- 
ject. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came from 
England some years ago, and established a small ''family," 
as they call it, which has been succeeded by various simi- 
lar institutions in different parts of the country. They 
regard that woman as nearly equal to the Saviour of the 
world ; and themselves as the only persons who have re- 
commands the finest view in this part of the country, and is 
easily accessible. (See Index.) 



48 THE NORTHERN 

ceived that spiritual light which is necessary to understand 
and practice the duty of man, which is, to renounce the 
pleasures of the world, and, by a life of self denial, pre- 
sent a living testimony against error and wickedness. 
Their dress is plain, and their worship consists principally 
in a strange and disagreeable kind of dancing, whence 
they have their name, accompanied with a monotonous 
song. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect members, 
pretend to "speak with tongues," heal diseases with a 
touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the 
apostles. They are generally supplied with members in 
the children of poor parents, or the parents themselves, 
who maybe desirous of securing a comfortable living, and 
are not scrupulous in breaking the bonds of nature, by 
considering relationship as well as matrimonial union dis- 
solved : which the rules of the society strictly demand. 
Occasionally, however, they receive more lucrative addi- 
tions from an individual or family of wealth. 

They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds 
in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neater 
branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very 
handsome income, by making sales at home and in distant 
parts of the country. Whoever has an opportunity to see 
this singular people, will probably feel gratified with their 
neatness, industry, and economy, but will perhaps leave 
the place with pity for some, and suspicion of others. 

Geology. The tract of country between New Leba- 
non and Albany is transition. Bluish gray transition lime 
stone, with veins of calcareous spar, abounds here in stra- 
ta on a great scale, with a considerable inclination. It is 
compact, with a slaty structure. Grawacke abounds at 
intervals ; also transition slate, a)id a fine red sand stone. 
At Greenbush is a bed of uninflammable fossil coal, or 
anthrocite. 

Road from Lebanon to Albaky. 

Nassau, 8 miles; Greenbush 16 ; Albany 1. 

The Albany Basin. The northern and western canals 
unite at the distance of 8| miles from Albany, and ter- 
minate here. To afford room for boats to lie while dis- 
charging or receiving their cai^oes, a large basin has been 
built in the Hudson, which extends more than half the 



TRAVELLER. 40 

length of the city, and is one of the greatest works con- 
nected with the canal. It is 4000 feet long, and has two 
or three handsome bridges, one with a draw to allow a pas- 
sage for sloops. It leads from the foot of State-street. The 
pier which encloses the basin on the river side, is built of 
logs, and wide enough for a spacious street. It is a place 
of deposit for vast quantities of lumber. 

In 1825, there were 9594 arrivals and departures of 
canal boats at Albany, with 165,000 barrels of flour, and 
near 16 million feet of plank and boards. 23,292 tons of 
merchandise also, went north and west. (See page 56.) 

The size of this basin, may afford the stranger some 
idea of the extent of the benefits expected from the canal ; 
and probably he will find cause to think them not over- 
rated, when he observes the number, size, and lading of 
the boats which already avail themselves of the conve- 
nience and security of this construction. Here the tra- 
veller gets the first view of objects with which be is after- 
wards to become familiar ; and if he is travelling this way 
for the first time in a few years, he must look with sur- 
prise upon the crowd of boats, and the bustle of industry. 
He may look upon them also with additional interest : for 
they will be hereafter presented to his view in many vary- 
ing forms, though still preserving the characteristic aspect 
and impression, which distinguish the whole line of inter- 
nal improvements, to its very termination. 

The route to Schenectady, by the canal, although so 
much longer than the stage road, and so much obstructed 
by frequent locks, is highly worthy of the traveller's at- 
tention, either in going or in returning ; for it will afford 
him an opportunity of seeing the junction of the two 
canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk, the locks by 
which the rise of land is artificially surmounted, the aque- 
ducts which bear the canal twice across the river, the 
Wat Hoix Rapid, and the gap through which the canal 
passes ; the scenery at Alexander's Bridge, &c. The packet 
boats used to leave Albany for Schenectady every day ; if 
they should have ceased running, travellers may find very 
good accommodations in the boats of the Ontario and 
Erie Transportation Company, which are all fitted up for 
passengers, and carry them at more moderate prices. 
Other boats of various descriptions go every day in the 
same direction. 



■30 THE NORTHERN 

ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 

The boats start from the commencement of the canal, 
which is at the north end of Albany ; so that a carriage '\ 
will be necessary for the traveller and his luggage. 

Boats run with great exactness from Albany to Roches- 
ter in five days. 

Description of a Canal Packet Boat. — The length is 60 
or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the dining 
room, where two rows of tables are set. At night, mat- 
tresses are spread on the seats each side, and another row 
above them on cots suspended from the roof. The ladies 
are accommodated with births in the cabin, which is 
usually carpeted, hung with curtains, and in other respects 
more handsomely furnished. The kitchen and bar are 
conveniently situated ; and the tables are spread with an 
abundance, and often a delicacy, which may well surprise 
those not accustomed to the cheapness of travelling in 
this part of the country. 

A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve 
to make the time pass agreeably, even if the traveller be 
a stranger, or the iveather not inviting. In many places, 
the view from the deck is highly interesting } but it can- 
not be too often recommended to the stranger to beware i 
of standing on deck when approaching a bridge, and 
never to expose the head or hands out of a window. 

Rensselaerwyck, 

A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, 
about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy of 
particular observation, as the seat of the Honourable 
Stephen Van Rensselaer ; who bears the respected old 
Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im- 
mense value, extending ten miles along the river, and 
double that distance east and west ; while he possesses 
besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &c. It was for- 
merly entailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of 
the family ; but on the death of the present proprietor it 
is to be divided equally among all the children. The cha- 
racter of Gen. V. R. is too estimable and influential to 
allow his name to be passed over in silence, even in a 
work like the present little volume. He has been a 
powerful patron, for many years, of all plans for the pub- 



Ni^rOi 







Trov 



jV'o r/7irt72TV_^^^t a. 



i^£/<? 



o 



TRAVELLER. 51 

lie benelit, and one of the earliest and most eflScient 
friends of the Erie Canal, which terminates within view 
of his house. 

State Arsenal, 5^ miles, at Gibbonsville. The ad- 
vantages of this situation will be immediately perceived : 
the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal, 
afibrding every convenience for the transportation of 
arms and ammunition. This depository of arms, &c. is 
under the charge of Major Hoops. 

The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from the 
road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal, 
where are two gun houses, with low projecting roofs to 
protect the carriages from exposure to the weather. 
Strangers may easily gain access by mere application at 
the officers' quartei's. These are in the south wing of the 
principal building, which faces the road and the river ; and 
the remainder of which is occupied for the storing of 
arms. The lower floor is devoted to such arms as are in- 
tended for the supply of the military posts, or have been 
received for repairing. The arms in the second loft are 
disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly packed 
in boxes, and partly ranged upright, with fixed bayonets, 
in compact order ; and present an appearance truly 
formidable. Thousands of pistols are bung over head ; 
those in the alternate lines standing different ways ; and 
swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally 
on wire hooks. The walls are ornamented by several de- 
vices formed of swords, pistols, &c. ingeniously arranged. 

The upper loft contains only knapsacks, belts, cartridge 
boxes and other leathern articles ; while the passages and 
stair cases are hung with drums. — On the ground floor 
are a few pieces of artillery, and various sizes of shot, 
shells, &c. &c. 

In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the 
north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms, 
manufacturing locks, &c. about 30 men being usually 
employed, most of whom are enlisted. The buildings on 
the south side are occupied by smiths and carpenters. 
Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit garden ; the 
kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. 

The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; which 
costs from 50 cents to $1 50 or ^2 each. The barrels 
'^re oxvdizf^fl to prevent riisMns:. The muskets weiorh ^ 



52 THE NORTHERN 

little more than 10 pounds, and the parts are intended to' 
correspond as nearly as can easily be done. 

In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4 
medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken 
at Saratoga; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, 
taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one 8 
inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 
pounders and 14 guns, sent by King Louis to the Continental 
Congress in the revolution. These are all of brass, and 
most of them highly ornamented. The French guns pre- 
sented by the king, bear each an individual name forward, 
and the inscription " Ultima ratio regwn^^ — (the last argu- 
ment of kings.) The English guns have the royal arms 
near the breech, and those of the officer of the foundry 
department forward. 

There are also three or four howitzers cast in New- 
York and Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the 
oldest specimens of such manufacture in this country. 
They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies. 

TROY, 

On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome 
town, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of 
which has received the name of Mount Ida, to correspond 
with the classic appellation of the place. There is a good 
horse ferry, which helps to render the town a great tho- 
roughfare during the travelling season. The Dam and Basin 
at Troy form a great and expensive work, and promise 
great benefit to the place, by diverting a part of the busi- 
ness of the canal. 

The road to New Lebanon is a very goo(i and very 
pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. The first mile or 
two is through a wild, broken piece of country, with some 
striking scenes. 

Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more, 
village of New Lebanon 12 further, and Lebanon Springs 
2 more. 

On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine succession 
of water falls, on a stream which has cut its way in some 
places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpen- 
dicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The 
road to New Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which 
}9 wnrfbv of nttpptinn for its pirturpsqne rharartpr, 



TRAVELLER. 63 

There are several mills of different descriptions, and a 
cotton manufactory on the same stream. 

Mount Ida. The view from the top of this hill, and 
still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive 
and beautiful. It embraces the course of the Hudson for 
a considerable distance up and down ; with the courses of 
the two canals, before and after their junction ; together 
with many of the objects already spoken of ; particularly 
the range of the distant Catskill Mountains, which pre- 
sent a boundary to the scene in the south-west. 

A canal route has been surveyed by the state of 
Massachusetts, from Boston to Troy. From Troy to 
Connecticut River, 73 miles of canal would cost 3 mil- 
lions of dollars, with a tunnel of 4 miles through Hoosac- 
Mountain, Lockage 61 1 feet. 

At the Van Rensselaer School, the students deliver lec- 
tures by turns, on the branches of study to which they 
are devoted ; and during the pleasant seasons of the year, 
they devote much time to making personal observations 
on farming, the botany of the neighbourhood, &c. Board- 
ing costs about $1 50 per week, and no charge is made for 
room rent, use of the library, apparatus, &c. 

Mtss Willard's Academy, for young ladies, is also a very 
respectable establishment. 

The Flour Mill, south of the town, can grind 2000 
bushels of wheat in a day, and 1500 with ease. 

The J^TaU and Spike Manufactory, makes of red hot iron, 
every thing from a shingle nail to a ship spike. 

Hydrostatic Lock. 

In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, 
three of these works have been constructed : — one at 
Troy, one at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are 
commonly called iveigli-locks. The following minute ac- 
count of them may be interesting to those who have never 
seen them. 

" These hydrostatic locks are constructed with a cham- 
ber sufficiently large to receive any boat used on the canal. 
The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and is 
filled from it by a paddle gate which is fixed in a large 
gate. On a level below the chamber, is a receptacle, into 
F 



5'i THE NORTHERN 

which, by a gate, the chamber can be emptied ; and 
from this, through another gate, the .water can be dis- 
charged. The gates are made as accurately as possible, to 
prevent leakage ; and although they cannot be made per- 
fectly tight, yet if they are equally so, the result will be 
equally compensated by the gain at the other. 

"When it is designed to ascertain the weight of a 
loaded boat, the chamber is first filled by the opening of 
the paddle gate, after which the large gate is opened, the 
boat is removed from the canal into the chamber, and the 
gates close behind it. The depth of the water in the 
chamber is then carefully ascertained by a metallic rod, 
graduated into feet, tenths, and hundredths of a foot ; and 
the cubic contents of the water, with the boat floating in 
it, are at once obtained from a table constructed for the 
purpose, and adapted to the graduations of the rod. 

" Suppose the column of water in the lock in which the 
boat is afloat, is 85 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 feet deep; 
then by multiplying the length, width, and depth of this 
column into each other, its contents in cubic feet are ob- 
tained. Thus, 85 X 15X4=5100 cubic feet of water, in- 
cluding what is called the flotation bulk of the boat, or in 
other words, including the contents of the volume of 
water displaced by the boat. The water is then drawn 
off" into the receptacle, and the boat settles down upon 
timbers, so arranged as to yield to its shape, by which it 
is supported, without being strained or injured. The 
quantity of water drawn from the lock is then ascertained 
by the graduated rod. Suppose the water in the recep- 
tacle measures 30 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 5 feet deep : 
these multiplied into each other as before, will produce 
3750 cubic feet. It is a principle in hydrostatics, that 
every body which floats in water, displaces a volume of 
this fluid, precisely equal in weight to the floating body. 
It appears from the above, that the water, with the loaded 
boat floating in it, contained 5100 cubic feet, and that 
the same water, drawn off" and measured separately, con- 
tained 3750 cubic feet, which subtracted from the prece- 
ding, will give 1350 cubic feet of water displaced by the 
loaded boat. And as a cubic foot of fresh water weighs 
1000 ounces avoirdupois, or G2^ pounds, it follows that 
1350X62^=84375 : the weight of the loaded boat. 
This is to be reduced to tons, and the weight of the 



TRAVELLER. 55 

empty boat, previously ascertained in the same manner, is 
to be deducted, and the remainder will be the weight of 
the cargo. After an empty boat has been once weighed, 
she is numbered, and her weight is registered at the seve- 
ral hydrostatic locks." 

As I suppose the traveller personally unacquainted with 
this part of the country, I may call bis attention both to 
the advantages and the disadvantages of the mode of 
travelling. The opportunity for looking around on every 
side is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage 
coach, or even a private carriage, although it sometimes 
happens, that the road commands more extensive views 
than the canal. The immediate scene from the latter, 
however, will usually be found the most agreeable ; for a 
smooth sheet of water, with level and often grassy banks, 
is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a muddy 
or sandy highway. Besides, it is always free from the 
inconveniences of dust, which frequently render the roads 
in this part of the country extremely uncomfortable. 

The Double Locks. The two locks which occur just 
below the junction of the northern and western canals, 
were doubled in 1825, to furnish room for the boats, 
which pass here in great numbers. They are built of 
marble from Westchester county. 

The Junction^ 8^ miles from Albany, is where the North- 
ern and Western Canals meet and unite. To this spot 
the canal has been of a greater width than either of the 
branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal runs 
to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a distance of 
63| miles, passing through Waterford, Half-moon, Still- 
water, near Bemis's Heights, (14 miles from Waterford,) 
\vith the battle grounds of General Burgoyne, Fort Hardy, 
where he surrendered. Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort 
Anne. 

The Erie or Western Canal now reaches to Buffalo, on 
Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks, 
which raise and lower the water 6SS feet in all. The 
principal points where the most labour and expense have 
been required, are the following : 

The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy,— 
the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on 
which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long 
Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the 



5« THE NORTHERN 

beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the 
long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great 
Embankment at Monroe, where for two miles the boats 
pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge- 
nesee at Rochester, — the 5 double combined Locks at 
Lockport, and the long Pier at Black Rock. 

The principal natural objects within its neighbourhood, 
worthy of the traveller's attention, are the following : 

The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of Trenton, 
14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Oneida, Sa- 
lina, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua ; the 
three Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester and Car- 
thage ; Niagara, and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie. 

In the unfinished state of the canals, the amount of 
tolls was, in 1822, $64,071 83 ; in 1823, $151,099 46 ; in 
1824, $289,320 8; 1825, estimated at $600,000. The 
canal was completed in 1825 ; and it was estimated that 
on the first of Jan. 1826, the canal debt amounted to 
$7,602,092. The interest on this will be $410,000, and 
$100,000 is estimated to be requisite for repairs and su- 
perintendence, annually. For the first ten years the canal 
tolls are esHmated to average $700,000 , the auction 
duties belonging to the canal fund, $:?50,000, and the salt 
duties $170,000. The income from the tolls and funds of 
the canals will thus yield an annual surplus revenue of 
$610,000 to be applied to the reduction of the canal debt, 
which it is estimated will be paid off in 10 years. 

At the 9 LockSj the road to VVaterford leaves the Erie 
Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on the east ; 
and in a short distance crosses the Mohawk River below 
the Cohoes Falls ; which are to be immediately described. 
There is a very fine view of the locks, the river, and the 
falls, from the road which runs along the south bank of 
the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. The 
stage coaches for the Springs through Cliffton Park, stop 
at about a mile distance, where the canal boat awaits 
them ; and those who are going on the road to Waterford, 
would find it worth a little time to turn off about a mile 
in that direction and return. 

(The book will now follow the great route, westward, 
to Niagara. For the road to the Springs, see Waterford. 



TRAVELLER. 5? 



COHOES FALLS. 

This is the great Cataract of the Mohawk River. The 
height of the fall is 78 feet. The banks are mere walls 
of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out be- 
neath, rising about 140 feet above the river for a great 
distance below the falls. At first view the cataract ap- 
pears almost AS regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer ap- 
proach, the ledge of rocks over which the water is preci- 
pitated, is found extremely irregular and broken. Many 
iine fish are caught at the bottom. 

The Lower Aqueduct, 2| miles. On account of the dif- 
ficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the river, 
above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as 
there is a natural channel on the other side, which will be 
seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, and 
rests on 26 stone piers and abutments. 

Wat Hoix Gap^ 2^ miles — the channel above-men- 
tioned. 

Upper Aqueduct, 9| miles — 748 feet long, and rests on 
16 piers. The scene at Alexander's Bridge is very fine. 

Schenectady is one of the oldest settlements in the 
state, having been occupied as a little frontier fortress 
before the year 1665, when it was attacked by a party of 
French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of 
the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed 
against the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with 
travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady. 

The town was remarkable, until within a very few 
years, for the antique and foreign aspect of its buildings, 
and the inconvenience of its streets, having retained in a 
singular degree the Dutch fashions in architecture, &c. 

Union College is conspicuously situated a little out 
of town. Two large stone buildings have been erected 
several years, but the original plan, which was quite ex- 
tensive, has never been completed. Dr. Nott is president 
of this highly respectable institution, which contained, in 
1825, 234 students. 

F2 



5S THE NORTHERN 



PROM SCHENECTADY TO TJTICA. 

By the Canal, 79^ miles.* 

Rotterdam Flats 3 miles. 

Flint Hill 8 

Fort Hunter 10 

North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, 
is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like 
most of the places of defence built in this state during the 
revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fitted 
only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to 
approach the settlements on this side. The only fortress 
of consequence which ever existed in any part of the 
state (except that of Oswego,) was Fort Stanwix, of 
which particular mention will be made on reaching Rome. 
Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk 
Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by- 
Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century for 
the use of that nation. It is still known by the name of 
Q^ueen Anne's Chapel. 

Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. 

Here is a collection of seveval very interesting works, 
formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad 
and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in 
the canal from rising or falling, and the current of the 
creek is set back by a dam a little below, nearly to the 
same level. The dam is constructed in a manner best 
calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods, 
and when increased by the ice. It has a broad founda- 
tion and a narrow top ; and it is built so as to present 
an angle against the middle of the current. An inge- 
nious invention has been devised for drawing boats across 
the creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horse 
moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is 
carried round a wheel on the other side ; a line attached 



* By the roady 81 miles. See "Roads,^^ at the end of the 
volume. 



TRAVELLER. 59 

to this moves the boats across, they being kept in their 
course by another line, which slides upon a long rope 
stretched across the creek on the other side of the boats. 

Caughnawaga, 4i miles. 

The village of Johnstown is situated at the distance of 
4 miles north of the canal.* 



* Tribe's Hill is a commanding elevation within the limits of 
Johnstown. It was formerly the place of the council fire of 
the Mohawk Indians ; and the Germans have corrupted its 
name to " Tripes Hill," by which it is commonly known. 

At JohnstoMm, on the road, are two fine houses, built of stone, 
standing at the distance of a mile from each other. They 
were erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as this, 
tract of country was his residence, and formed a part of 
his vast and valuable estate. There was originally a third 
house, similarly built, and at the interval of another mile ; but 
this was consumed by fire. Col, Guy Johnson and Col. 
John Johnson (sons of Sir William,) inhabited two of them 
imtil the revolutionary war ; when, having attached them- 
selves to the British interest, they removed into Canada, and 
their estates were confiscated. Col. John afterwards came 
down with a party of French and Indians, attacked the town 
and made prisoners many of his old friends and neighbours. 

The third mansion is on the other side of the road, and 



The residence op Sir William Johnson, 

for several of the last years of his life. This distinguished man, 
who makes so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state 
about the time of the French war, was born in Ireland, in 1714, 
and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of his imcle, 
Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a lai'ge estate here 
through his wife. Sir William became well acquainted with the 
Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater influence 
over them than any other white man ever possessed. He rose 
from the station of a private soldier to the rank of a General, 
and commanded at lake George in 1755, although, as will here- 
after be seen, the title which he there received, was really 
merited by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort Niagara, 
and in 1769 went to join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assist- 



60 THE NORTHERN 

Anthony's Nose, 71 miles. This is a high and pro- 
minent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of the 
river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends 
downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of 
considerable size. This scene is represented in one of 
the plates; but the view is taken from a little west of the 
hill. The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a re- 
markable assemblage of interesting objects : the Mohawk 
River, winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike 
on the north side, the canal and a country road on the 
south ; the whole enclosed by rough and elevated hills. 

There is every appearance of a rent in the hills having 
been made by a strong current of water ; and geologists 
consider them as having originally been a barrier to a 
great lake, which was thus gradually drained. 

Canajoharie Creek and Village, 5 miles. Hence 
a stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry Valley. 

Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, be- 
longing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Ger- 
mans. It occupies the site of Old Fort Plain. The Ger- 
man language, much corrupted,*is spoken here by every 
body. 

This little fort was surprised by captain Butler in the 
revolutionary war, on his return from burning Cherry 
Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. 

Dam on the River, and Feeder for the Canalj 4 miles. 

The Mouth op East Canada Creek, on the opposite 
side of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met 



ed in the capture of Montreal. He died and was buried at his 
seat, July 7, 1774, at the age of 60, very rich, in consequence 
of the increased value of his extensive estate after the French 
war. 

This building was erected in 1773, and stands nearly a mile 
westward from the village. It is called the Hall. 

The Battle of Johnstoton. On the 25th of October 1781, 
Col. Willet, with 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe, 
fought 600 English and Indians, on the grounds belonging to 
the mansion. The loss of the enemy was considerable, and 
they suffered so much during their retreat, that on their arrival 
in Canada their numbers were reduced to 220. 



TRAVELLER. 61 

a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his 
way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had 
crossed the river somewhere below, and while lingering a 
little in the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the 
mouth of the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship 
with the Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him, 
he begged for his life ; but they only replied " Sherry 
Valley /" and tomahawked him on the spot. 

Mohawk Castle, -2 miles. This was the principal 
defensive position of that famous nation of Indians, now 
entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the Dutch 
settlements, and New England, they were long regarded 
with peculiar solicitude, and frequently with great dread. 
They were one of the five nations, of which we shall 
speak more particularly, at Oneida, and were long faithful 
and serviceable friends to the white men. Here is an eld 
chapel erected for their use. 

Palatine Bridge. A little off the canal, at Palatine, 
is a school for the education of the Deaf and Dumb, es- 
tablished under the patronage of the state, on the plan of 
that in Hartford, Connecticut. It is the central school 
for the state of New- York. 

Gen. Herkimer's residence, 2 miles. The country 
hereabouts presents a varied surface, and increases in in- 
terest on approaching Little Falls, which is the most ro- 
mantic scene on the course of the Erie Canal. On reach- 
ing a little meadow surrounded by hills, where the views 
open upon cultivated fields and a few farm houses, the 
Mohawk will be found flowing below, on the right ; while 
on the opposite side, at the foot of the hills and on the 
verge of the forest that covers them, the great road is 
seen, after having been lost to the view for a long time. 
The road, the river, and the canal, are collected again at 
the head of the valley ; iov there is but one passage, and 
that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all. 
This a deep cut through a chain of limestone and granite 
hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force 
of water. If the chasm were again filled up it would 
throw the water back, and form an immense lake, such as 
is supposed to have once existed west of this place, and 
which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore 
away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the hard 



02 THE NORTHERN 

granite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine allu- 
vial plains above, called the German Flats, were left dry. 
The little valley over which we pass, east of the falls, 
was therefore of a more recent formation than these, the 
soil being composed of the particles of disintegrated rock, 
deposited by the water when it reached a level after its 
rapid descent. The stranger should, by no means, neglect 
the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a 
pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the 
beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north 
bank of the river, the road climbs along the side of the 
rocks, where there is barely room for its passage. A 
great part of the way it is almost overhung by rocks and 
trees on one side, while on the other is a precipice of 
granite, cut down by the force of water in perpendicular 
shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones 
vvhirled round by the current. The same appearance 
extends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of 
which appear quite inaccessible, with their ragged and 
perpendicular sides, overhung by dark evergreens, whose 
shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the 
white rapids and cascades below. 

In some places the road is protected by immense natu- 
ral battlements, formed of massy rock, which have been 
loosened from above, and planted themselves on the brow 
of the precipice. 

On the south side of the river runs the canal, supported 
by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great expense, 
and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. The 
wildness of the surrounding scenery, contrasts no less 
with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the 
violence and tumult of the Mohawk, with the placid and 
silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security 
with which the boats glide along the side of the moun- 
tains. 

The traveller may step on shore at the two locks, and 
walk along the tow path, as there are five more locks a 
mile above. If he wishes to stop a few hours to view the 
scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only 
half a mile from that place, where is a large and com- 
fortable inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing 
very frequently. If he intends to stay but a few hours, 



TRAVELLER, 65 

it is recommended to him to have his baggage left at a 
little tavern on the canal, where it can be readily trans- 
ferred to and her boat. 

The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the 5 locks ; 
and is considered the most finished specimen of mason 
work on the line of the canal, though much inferior in 
size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It conducts 
over a supply of water from the old canal, built for boats 
to pass the falls, and communicates also with a large ba- 
sin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of 
the river with three beautiful arches, which are covered 
with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites, 
formed by the water that continually drips through the 
stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which the water 
falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance. 
The channel here shows part of the old lime stone stra- 
ta, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below. 

This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist, 
abounding in organic remains, &c. but the ordinary tra- 
veller will be more pleased with specimens of the beauti- 
ful little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are found on the 
hills about a mile distant from the village. They are per- 
fect in their form, terminating with two pyramids ; and 
are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, as to be washed 
out by the rains in considerable numbers. 

There are mills of various kinds at this place. 

On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a beauti- 
ful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; through 
which the Mohawk winds in a smooth and gentle currrent, 
enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of 
three miles, we are in the level region called the German 
Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who are 
almost all of German extraction, still preserve their lan- 
guage, and many of the customs of their ancestors ; and 
though often laborious and provident farmers, are little 
inclined to those improvements in learning or the use- 
ful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state. 
The scenes presented along this part of the canal, bear a 
resemblance to some of the meadows of the Connecticut, 
although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. 

Six miles from Little Falls is Lock .ATo. 48. An old 



64 THE NORTHERN 

church is seen on the south side ; and also, old Fort 
Herkimer. 

Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile and a 
half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircu- 
lar plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the 
Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road. It derives 
its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be 
more to say at Rome. 

The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton i 
Falls, and join the canal again at Utica; or go from Utica. , 

The Long Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six i 
miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on the i 
canal without any interruption by locks, extending to ) 
Salina, a distance of 69^ miles. 

UTICA. 

This is one of the largest and most important of tbej 
western towns. Here the river, the great road, and thea 
canal, all meet again. There are also roads concentrating:; 
here, from various directions, and stage coaches arriving; 
and departing in great numbers. There are two largee 
stage houses ; one of which, at the canal bridge, will bee 
found most convenient, if not too crowded. Travellers, 
wishing for more retired lodgings, will find them at aa 
large hotel half a mile from the canal. 

There are several handsome churches in Utica, and 
one or more for almost every denomination. The streets 
are broad, straight, and commodious ; and the principal 
ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant 
dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mohawk, is at the 
end of the street. There were, in 1825, 5040 inhabitants r 
a few less than in Rochester. {Weigh-Lock, See p. 53. J 

Hamilton College 

Is situated near the village of Clinton, 9 miles fron' 
Utica. It contained 107 students in 1825. 







du tV 



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JV. 



bo ^ 



o 



■?P/ 



<oV 



</TVr.V 



TRAVELLER, 6S 



TRENTON FALLS. 



This most interesting object is well worthy the atten- 
tion of eTery person of taste, being justly considered one 
of the finest natural scenes in this part of the country. 
It will be necessary to get a horse or carriage at Utica, as 
no stage coach runs that way ; and to set off in the 
morning, as the whole day is not too long for the excur- 
sion. Guide posts have been recently erected along the 
road, so that strangers will find the way without difficulty. 
An excellent inn is kept near the falls by Mr. Sherman, 
who has a large collection of rare and interesting petri- 
factions collected among the rocks, well worthy of ex- 
amination. 

From this house you descend a long stair case down the 
steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has cut a 
frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some places 150 
feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by through a declin- 
ing channel below. The chasm continues for four miles, 
and presents the most interesting variety of cascades and 
rapids, boiling pools and eddies, that can easily be ima- 
gined. The passage or chasm between the rocks is every 
where very narrow, and in some places barely of sufficient 
breadth to permit the stream to pass ; while the rocks rise 
perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even project 
a considerable distance over head, so that it has been often 
necessary to form an artificial path by means of gun pow- 
der. These places appear dangerous, but only require 
a little caution and presence of mind to ensure the safety 
of the visiter, as strong iron chains are fixed into the rock 
to offer him security. There are four principal cataracts, 
between the stair case by which you first descend, and the 
usual limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a 
quarter up the stream. The first of these you discover 
soon after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; 
with the greatest fall towards the west. The top of the 
rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line measure- 
ment. The second is a regular fall, much like a mill dam, 
about 8 feet high ; the third, a remarkably striking and 
beautiful one, is 35 feet, and the fourth rather a succes- 
sion of cascades, but presents many most agreeable 
varieties. 

Q 



66 THE JNORTHERN 

About a mile and a quarter from the house, is a small 
building lately erected for the supply of refreshments. 

A singular species of tree is found in this neighbour- 
hood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, 
which often grow to such a length as to descend far below 
the root, in stooping towards the water. 

The rocks here are all a dark lime stone, of a very 
slaty structure, and contain astonishing quantities of pe- 
trified marine shells and other animals of an antediluvian 
date, such as Dilobites, Trilobites, &c. &c. 

There are several other cataracts besides those already 
mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might 
spend some time here very agreeably in observing them at 
leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek 
abounds. The house is commodious, and has the reputa- 
tion of furnishing one of the best tables in this part of 
the state. 



From Utica to Syracuse, 

By the Canal^ 63| miles. 

Whitestown, 4 miles. 

Oriskany village, 7 

Rome, on the right, 8 

Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. 

Arsenal, 1 

Oneida Creek, 14 

Lock 54, end of the long level, 29 

Syracuse, — I 

These places are noticed in succession. 

Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this 
part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All 
this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, 
when Mr. White from Middletown, in Connecticut, first 
took up his abode here and lifted an axe against the 
forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pur- 
sues his journey, and the progress of civilization will ap- 
pear the more astonishing. 



TRAVELLER. 67 

Siege of Fort Stanwix. 

On the road from Whitestown to Rome, is the spot wbere 
Gen. Herkimer sat down under a tree, after receiving his 
mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne sent between 15 
and 1800 men, part savages, under Baron St. Leger, to go 
from Montreal, by Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; 
and then to go down the Mohawk to Albany. Early in 
August they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, 
commander of the militia of Tryon county, was sent 
against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going 
on, to meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out 
by St. Leger ; but at the first shot they fled. A few re- 
mamed and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Congress 
voted a monument to his memory, but it has never been 
erected. The Americans lost i60 killed, and 240 wound- 
ed and prisoners. Two miles below Fort Stanwix the 
canal commences between the Mohawk and Wood Creek j 
so that Rome separates the waters of the Hudson and the 
St. Lawrence. 

Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of 
the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of pali- 
sades, snd a block house in the middle. It was defended 
against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort. Lieut. Colonel 
Willet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the camp. 
He was intercepted on his return, but cut his way through, 
and returned without the loss of a man. When Sir J. John- 
son returned from the battle with Gen. Herkimer, the for- 
tress was summoned, but refused to surrender ; and CoL 
Willet and Lieut. Stockton left the fort to inform the peo- 
ple towards Albany, of its situation. They crept through 
the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. Schuyler's head quar- 
ters at Stillwater. Gen. Arnold volunteered to relieve it. 
He frightened the besiegers by means of two emissaries, 
an Indian and a white man, who told such stories of the 
force of the Americans, that they left their baggage and 
fled precipitately to Oneida Lake. 

Oneida Castle. 

This is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved 
!and belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The 



6i} THE NORTHERN 

principal residences of most of the Indians in this part of 
the country were formerly fortified in a manner corres- 
ponding with their ideas of warfare, and hence the name 
of castie attached to this village, as well as to several 
others we may have occasion to speak of further on. 

The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, 
which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this 
state. The best and most interesting account of them 
will be found in Colden's history, to which valuable work, 
the curious reader is referred. They formerly resided, 
says that author, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, near 
■where Montreal now stands ; but being driven from their 
country by the Adirondacks, a powerful and warlike nation, 
wandered towards the south-west, and settled along the 
lakes of New- York, where they now live. This occurred 
before the arrival of any Europeans in this part of the 
continent; and when the French came to Quebec, in 
1603, they held their present abode. On the St. Law- 
rence they had been cultivators of the ground, but after 
their expulsion they turned their attention to warlike 
deeds with so much success, that they finally triumphed 
over their enemies the Adirondacks, and almost extermi- 
nated them. Their power and influence, at the time of 
the settlement of New- York and New-England, were ex- 
tended far and wide. They held the Delawares in sub- 
jection in Pennsylvania and Delaware ; the Cherokees in 
S. Carolina sought their friendship ; and all the country 
between the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tributary 
to them. They must have been at that time extremely 
numerous. But since then their decrease has been great ; 
for besides the losses they have sustained in wars, and 
the diseases brought upon them by civilized vices, many 
of their young men have left their native cotmtry to go 
and join the tribes who still preserve some portion of 
their original habits and independence ; and there are 
supposed to be only 8000 now in this state. Some of the 
nations, however, are said to be gradually increasing, 
under all their disadvantages. The United States have fur- 
nished sums of money for their instruction in learning 
&nd useful arts ; as they do to other Indian tribes in 
our territory. 



TRAVELLER. 69 

A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road side, is 
the ancient 

Council Grove, 

Where all the public business of the nation has been, for 
many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine butternut 
trees, which, in the summer season, fron^a little distance, 
present a beautiful and regular mass of verdure. It was 
carefully fenced in, until within a few years, and kept 
clear of all brush, fallen limbs, and other obstructions, 
but has now become a mere thoroughfare. Towards the 
south-east from this place is seen the Episcopal church, a 
building recently erected for the use of the Indians. 
Great numbers of the white persons from the neighbour- 
hood also attend service at this house, as well as in the 
other church, which is supplied with preachers by the 
Foreign Missionary Society. 

In the scattering village about half a mile beyond, there 
are several decent and comfortable frame houses inhabited 
by Indian families, whose habits have risen to a higher 
grade than most of the nation, although many of them 
are gradually improving, by betaking themselves to agri- 
culture. A handsome school-house has been erected at 
the same place, the frame of which was made and raised 
under the direction of a young Indian, from what he had 
learnt by watching the progress of the builders employed 
several years before on his brother's house hard by. This 
instance alone is more conclusive of the Indian mental 
capacity for acquiring useful arts, than all the reasoning to 
the contrary their enemies have ever advanced. 

The scholars are to be taught the rudiments of learn- 
ing, under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts. 

The Oneida nation derived their name from a white 
stone on a hill five miles southerly from this place, to 
which they long paid a superstitious worship. The word 
'* Oneida,^^ in their curious and wonderful language, signi- 
fies a stone on a high hill. Many of them were idolaters 
until within a short time ; but a few years ago the nation 
renounced their ancient superstitious rites, and declared 
in favour of Christianity. 

G5 



THE NORTHERN 



Brothertown and New-Stockbridge 

Are two villages, a few miles south-easterly from here, 
situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted 
to some of their scattered Indian brethren from Pennsyl- 
vania and New- England. New-Stockbridge, until recently, 
was the residence of the Stockbndge tribe, who came by an 
invitation irom the Oneidas some jears ago. They had 
Christian ministers among them long before they removed 
from Stockbridge in Massachusetts. 

Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land given 
them by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are on 
the most friendly terms ; and are adopting, to a good ex- 
tent, the arts of civilized life. They have invited the 
Oneidas to join them. 

The Brothertown Indians have been collected from all 
the remnants of tribes in New-England and Long Island, 
and practise comparatively few of the Indian customs. 

SYRACUSE. 

This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of its 
growth, than for the peculiar advantages of its situation. 
The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant, 
and the water is brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, 
in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. These 
vats will be seen at the western side ol the village, and 
are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the works at 
Salina, Liverpool, and Geddesburgh. The vats are large 
pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a 
little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a 
very gradual descent, to permit the salt water to flow 
slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of 
vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpendicularly in 
the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evapo- 
rates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small 
cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a 
little thick, but gradually deposits its impurities ; and the 
lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the 
purest snow. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats 



TRAVELLER. "1 

when the ivealher requires it ; and the salt is taken out 
once in two or three days, to be deposited in the store 
houses, which are built at regular distances. 

Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then is 
ready for transportation to any part of the country. 

It is scarcely four years since the town may be pro- 
perly said to have been begun. In 1823, there were about 
100 houses, and the number v/as doubled in 1S24. In 
1825, the inhabitants amounted to lOOO; and those of 
the township to 3025. There were then three churches in 
the village ; and 736,632 bushels of salt were manufac- 
tured here in that year. In the autumn of the year 18^4, 
the salt vats covered 60 acres, and about 140 acres more 
had been cleared from the surrounding forest, for the 
purpose of extending the works, under the direction of a 
company whose enterprise, seconded by the formation of 
the canal, is likely to prove of great and permanent ad- 
vantage to the country as well as to themselves. Under 
the same encouraging prospects, the village has acquired 
its sudden growth and importance ; large blocks of stores 
have been built on both sides of the canal, two or three 
large inns and stage houses are ready for the accommo- 
dation of travellers, and a good deal of trade is carried on 
in this place. Improvements are still going on rapidly, 
and it is difficult to foretell where they will stop. 

The Oswego Canal, which has been commenced, will 
join the Erie canal at this place, and ope/i a direct commu- 
nication with Lake Ontario. Apprehensions, however, 
have been entertained, lest this work should draw off a 
great deal of the transportation from the west, through 
the Welland Canal, as the tolls will be much less on the 
latter route. * 

By a recent survey, a canal from Syracuse through Ho- 
mer to Binghttmpto7i, on the Susquehannahy has been pro- 
nounced practicable. Syracuse Weigli-Lock, (See p. 53.) 

SALINA 

Is situated a mile and a half north from this place, and 
should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but conve- 
nient little packet boat is continually plying between the 
two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many 



n THE NORTHERN 

salt manufactories, built and building on both sides of the 
canal. The mode of evaporation generally adopted here, 
is that of boiling ; and a brief description ivill convey a 
clear idea of the process. Each building contains sixteen 
or eighteen large iron kettles, which are placed in two 
rows, forming what is called "a block." They stand 
about three feet higher than the floor ; and under them is 
a large furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and re- 
quires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. 
The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end of 
the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile 
and deposit the impurities it has brought along with it. A 
hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with 
openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in 
filling them. The first deposit made by the water after 
the boiling commences, is a compound of several substan- 
ces, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;" 
but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its ap- 
pearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store room 
just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market. 

As the number of manufactories of this description is 
almost daily increasing, it would be useless to attempt an 
estimate of the quantity of salt they produce altogether. 
Separately, however, each yields about 40 bushels a day, 
and in 1824, the different buildings were supposed to 
amount to nearly forty. 

There are two .large manufactories here, where salt is 
made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated 
by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The 
process is slow, but seems to promise well. The reser- 
voir of the principal one contains no less than 40,000 
gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a furnace be- 
low, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, resem- 
bling half-thawed ice. The process has the advantage 
of not wasting heat in raising steam. The crystallization 
also is different from that produced by the other modes, 
at least in secondary forms. 

The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a 
flourishing appearance, considering the shortnes.s of the 
lime since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles 
it has had to encounter in the unhcalthiness of its situa- 
tion. In 1825 it contained 1000 inhabitants ; the village of 



TRAVELLER. 73 

GedJes, 520 ; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshes 
ivhich bound it on the west are extremely unwholesome 
during the warmer seasons of the year, and the whole 
neighbourhood is more or less infected with the fever and 
ague : that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much 
the settlement of many parts of this western country. 
Since the marshes have been partially cleared and drained, 
the disease has been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped 
that time and industry will reduce its ravages still further, 
if not entirely eradicate it. 

The branch canal which runs through this village, is 
applied to other valuable purposes beside those of trans- 
portation. A sluice which draws off a portion of the 
water towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn 
several mill wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises 
the water of the salt spring destined to supply the manu- 
factories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame 
building shows the spot from which all the kettles and the 
pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for 
the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, and the 
pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. 

The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but 
in its present state presents no very remarkable appear- 
ance,, as there is little commotion visible on the surface, 
and the source would seem by no means equal to the 
great draughts which are continually made upon it. 

The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. 
It is 6 miles long and two broad, and must receive a con- 
siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the 
marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The 
valley is surrounded by lime-stone hills with petrifactions, 
and gypsum is found in great quai^tities. 

** The Jlmrrican Salt Formation,^* says Dr. Van Rensse- 
laer in his * Essay,' " extends over the continent from the 
Allegbanies to the Pacific, between 31'' and 45° N. Lat- 
in this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally 
found ; but its locality is more generally pointed out by 
brine springs." The salt springs in this state are in the 
counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, 
Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida, but this is the 
most valuable on various accounts. Daring the year end'- 



r4 THE NORTHERN 

ing Aug. 1823, 606,463 bushels were manufactured here. 
In 180U there were only 42,754. 

45 gallons of water make a bushel of salt. At Nantucket 
350 gallons of sea water are required. 

The following approximated analysis of the water of this 
spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 40 
gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs, of saline extract. 

Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. — oz. 

Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde of iron, — 6^ 

Sulph. Lime 2 4 

Muriate Lime, 1 12^ 

and probably muriate magnesia, and sulph. soda. 

From Syracuse to Rochester. 

As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the 
canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omit- 
ted until we reach that part of the country on the return 
from Buffalo. 

By the canalj 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A coach 
to Auburn, 8 m. for 50 cents. 11m. Montezuma Salt 
Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal 
across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35 
m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. 
The Great Embankment, 72 feet high, extending 2 m. 

Antiquities. In the towns of Onondaga, Camillu?, 
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient towns and forts, 
of which a description will be found in Yates and Moul- 
ton's new History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In Pompey 
the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the re- 
mains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the 
corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500 
acres. De Witt Clinton, the present Governor of this 
state, in his memoir, read in I817, before the Lit. and 
Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the north 
line. See also North American Review. 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three 
acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a 
spring on the west, and a gate towards the east. Another 
is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large- 
Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be picked up iii 
these places. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.) 



fRAVELLEii, 



ROCHESTER 

Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part of 
the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of 
numbers, the township containing in 1825, 5271 ; next 
to Troy. It has several good inns, one of the best of 
which is the " Coffee House," near the canal bridge. It 
is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at the 
upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and is con- 
sequently destined to be the place of receiving goods pass- 
ing up or down the river ; and at the same time enjoys the 
finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, from the 
convenient and abundant supply obtained from the falls, 

Rochester now exceeds Utica in population. The 
following statement of its growth and present condition 
is copied from the Rochester Telegraph. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, 
and the first settlement made in 1812. During the war 
the increase was slow, and it was not until the latter part 
of the year 1814, that any considerable addition was made 
to the number of inhabitants. From that period (6 the 
p'resent, the increase has been constantly progressing. In 
Septemper, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabitants ; 
in August, 1820, 1502 ; in September, 1822, 3130, (which 
included labourers on the public works ; the permanent 
population at that time was estimated at about 2700.) In 
1824, 4274; and in 1825, 5271. 

The proposed canal from Genesee river to Olean on 
the Alleghany, would be about 110 miles long, and cost, 
as is estimated, about !?1, 320,000. It Avould open a valu- 
able trade with the upper valley of the Ohio, and much 
increase the value'of land. 

Sulphur Springs, Bathing, &c. — A Bathing House has 
been erected at the Sulphur Springs, in Buffalo-street, 
with accommodations for ladies as well as gentlemen, 
where baths may be had of sulphur, alkaline, and fresli 
water, warm or cold. 

There is an eye and ear infirmary, 1 bank, 6 meeting 
houses for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Methodists, 
Friends, and Catholics, a court house, jail, &c. 

The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest 
\yorks on the course of the canal, and is no Less remark* 



76 THE NORTHERN 

able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty and 
strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on ten 
arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly along 
beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, glide 
safely by above. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, 
where a sluice is also constructed for the supply of the 
numerous manufactories built and building on the bank. 
Another sluice is also dug on the west side, where many 
other mills are to be seen. The Basin is large and 
convenient ; and the appearance of business, which is 
observed about it, sufficiently shows the importance the 
place has already acquired. The streets of the town 
are handsomely and regularlylaid out, and several of them 
are very well built with store and dwelling houses of brick 
and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. Two fine 
churches are just completed on a small public square, 
near the court house, which is itself a neat building of 
hewn stone. One of the churches belongs to the Presby- 
terians, and the other to the Episcopalians ; and the style 
and size of both show the rapidity of the increase of in- 
habitants, while they reflect much credit on the good habits 
of the people. 

Falls. There is a fall in the Genesee of about 90 feet, 
near the northern extremity of the town ; and a still finer 
one at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive scenery 
of the banks, is worthy of particular attention. To vary 
the ride, it is recommended to the stranger to go down on one 
side of the river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the 
bridge a little above, and return on the other. 

The Lake Ontario Steam Boat touches at Port Genesee, 
at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niagara and to 
Ogdensburgh — the route to Montreal. 

Carthage. .The fall here is very sudden, though not 
in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few 
yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for ages, 
as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, perpendi- 
cular ami ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; and the 
seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime etfect of the 
scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, com- 
bine to render it one of the most impressive scenes in this 
part of the country. The breadth allowed for the river 
!3 barely suflicient for its passage, being .marked out bv 



TRAVELLER. 77 

tlie tremenclous precipices above, and frequently much en- 
croached upon by the heaps of stones which crumble 
away from their sides. The precipices are perfect walls 
of secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, 
and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth 
of about two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish 
stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and dis' 
appearing al the brink of the falls, which it appears to 
have kept at their present position : its superior hardness, 
evidently resisting the action of the water for a much 
longer time ; and probably rendering the descent more 
perpendicular than it would otherwise be. The rocks 
are overhung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, 
have been able to find a narrow footing along the sides. 

One of the boldest single fabrics that art has ever suc- 
cessfully attempted in this country, now shows a few of 
its remains in this place. The two great piles of timber 
which stand opposite each other on the narrow level, 
where once the river flowed, are the abutments of abridge 
thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, 
and 250 above the water ; but stood only a short time, 
and then fell with a tremendous crash, by its own weight. 
Fortunately no person was crossing it at the time — a lady 
and gentleman had just before passed, and safely reached 
the other side. 

On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation 
is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communicntion 
between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, 
and Lake Ontario is through Carthage. Merchandise is 
raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an in- 
clined plane, very steep, where the descending weight is 
made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 

Road from Rochester to Niagara Falls, S7 miles. 



To Carthage Falls 2 

Parma 

Clarkson 7 

Hartland 14 

(hence a wagon takes pas- 
sengers to Locknort, 7 m.) 

H 



To Sandy Creek....... 7 

Gaines 8 

Oak Orchard 7 

Cambria . . . . , 11 

Lewiston 15 

Niagara Falls. , 7 



78 THE KoRTHERN 

The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lewr- 
iston, on Niagara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni- 
agara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Canada 
at Lewiston: and Queenston if jou do. Lockport may 
also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 64 
miles from Rochester, where a wagon awaits the arrival 
of the coach, to take travellers to Lockport, 7 miles. It 
will be proper, however, to pay your passage only to this 
place, if you determine to stop here. The stage coach 
stops at Lewiston for tlie night. 

Instead of going by land from Rochester, it may be 
more convenient to take passage in the canal boat to 
Lockport ; and thence go to Hartland to meet the stage 
coach. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, 
and for the most part, very narrow, extending a great part 
of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often 
perfectly level for several miles, and affords an admirable 
foundation for a road, and the stage road has, in conse- 
quence, been laid along its top. The manner in which 
this singular elevation could have been made, has excited 
the speculations of many curious observers of nature, and 
been explained in different ways. Some have imagined 
that the ridge was, at some long past period, the shore of 
Lake Ontario, and was thrown up by its waves. The 
country between it and the lake, is so level as to ren- 
der it very probable that the water has once overflowed 
it ; but it is extremely difficult to understand how the 
waves could have managed to barricade themselves out of 
a tract of country. It therefore seems more rational to 
adopt another theory : that the lake was formerly still 
more extensive than is here supposed, and overflowed the 
land some distance southward of this place, when a cur- 
rent might easily have produced a bar parallel to the 3hore, 
tvhich, when left dry, might present the form of the 
ridge. 

The progress of improvement along this part of the 
road, is very rapid and flattering. The ground presents 
a slope on each side of the path, peculiarly well adapted 
for home lots, gardens, and orchards ; and the frequency 
and facility of transportation give the inhabitants very 
manifest advantages- Some well built, and even hand- 



TRAVELLER. 79 

some houses will be observed, which are still few indeed, 
but show that a good style has actually been introduced. 

LocKPORT is one of the most advantageous sites for 
machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the 
mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an extent of 
135 miles. It is brought down by passing i-ound the 
double locks, and falls 55 feet into a large natural basin, 
where two ranges of overshot wheels may be built, each 
at least 25 feet in diameter. A little water is sufBcient to 
turn wheels of this description. The rocks are blasted 
out to a depth of 60 feet. 

Within 5 or 6 years, the spot has been changed from a 
•wilderness to a village of 3 or 400 houses, and about 1400 
inhabitants. 

It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo. 

Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, 
containing organic remains ; encrinites, enthrocites, &c. 
&c. crystals of carb. lime of various forms ; rhomboidal, 
dog-tooth spar, 12 sided ; fluate of lime ; beautiful crys- 
tals of sulphate of lime, sometimes enclosing the prece- 
ding ; sulph. of strontian, earthy, or in long, flat, bluish 
crystals ; pyrites ; sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret of lead. 
Collections of minerals may be purchased here. 

The TuscARORA Reservation is an oblong tract of 
land reaching within a mile of Lewiston. This nation of 
Indians are particularly worthy the notice of the traveller, 
on account of the advances they have made in the arts 
and habits of civilized life. They emigrated from North 
Carolina near the beginning of the last century, at an in- 
vitation from the Five Nations, and were admitted oa 
equal term.s into their confederacy, which has since re- 
ceived the name of the Six Nations. They have had a 
clei^yman settled among them for many years, and Chris- 
tianity has been voluntarily adopted by them. Their vil- 
lage has a flourishing appearance, with some handsome 
and well-cultivated farms, and a house built for public wor- 
ship. They amount to about 250 individuals, and pre- 
serve, in some degree, the Indian fashions in their dress, 
although the materials are cloth, &c. Strangers may here 
obtain moccasins and other neat articles of Indian manu- 
facture o 



80 THE NORTHERN 



Hints to the Traveller at Lewiston. 

It will be the intention of many strangers who arrive at 
this place, to devote several days to viewing the Falls of 
Niagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and perhaps 
in making short excursions in different directions. To 
those who have leisure, such a course may well be recom- 
mended ; and it may be almost a matter of indifference 
whether they first visit the American or the British side. 
The public accommodations are excellent at both places, 
and the river may be safely crossed at any hour of the 
day, by a ferry, at the expense of about half a dollar, in- 
cluding the transportation of luggage down and up the 
steep banks. A plan has been formed, for cutting a con- 
venient carriage road to the water on each side, which 
will be a great improvement. A stair case is erected near 
the falls, on the British as well as the American side, to 
furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of 
the cataract, where the charge is 25 cents for each person. 
During the pleasant seasons of the year, both places are 
the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage coaches 
also pass up and down on both sides every day at equal 
rates. 

To such, however, as have but a short time to spend in 
this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended to 
cross the river here and proceed directly to the British 
falls. The cataract on that side is higher, broader, more 
unbroken, and universally acknowledged by far the no- 
blest part of the scene. The visiter may indeed see it 
from the American side, but the view from Table Rock is 
the noblest of all, and ought by no means to be neglected. 
The finest view from the level of the water below is also 
afforded on the west side. 

There is a stage coach which runs daily from Lewiston 
to Buffalo, on each side of the river. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— //-om the American side. 

The Inn or Hotel is a large building, and very well 
kept and commodious. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet perpendi- 



TRAVELLER. 31 

cular, but somewhat broken in several places by the pro- 
jecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which in- 
terrupts it on the brow of the precipice, A narrow sheet 
appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, with a 
mural precipice. Between this and the other shore is the 
Grand Crescent, for which see a few pa2;es beyond. There 
is a bridge to the island, which commands many fine views 
of the falls. 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a mile 
across ; but the current is strong on this side, and the 
eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a boat 
moves more than double that distance in going over. The 
passage is not dangerous, although the water is much 
agitated by counter currents and changing whirlpools ; for 
the ferrymen are taught by their experience to manage 
the boat with care, and not only to take advantage of the 
currents, but to avoid all the rough places, ripples, and 
whirlpools. The banks here have an appearance very 
wild and striking ; and the stranger immediately notices 
the remains of former levels high up the sides of the 
rocks, which prove, however incredible it may at first 
appear, that the river once poured along at the height of 
about two hundred feet above its present surface. 

The rocks are a dark red sand stone, with thin strata 
of a more clayey character and a lighter colour, occurring 
every few fevt. 

Niagara is about seven miles further up the stream, so 
that the stranger will strain his eyes in vain to discover 
from this place that great object of his wishes. 

QuEENSTON, on the Canada side of the river, is a small 
town, uninteresting except so far as regards its natural 
situation, and some martial events of which it has been 
the theatre. 

The Battle of Queenston. 

During the last war between the United States and 
Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer was 
stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of taking 
Queenston ; and in spite of the difficulty of ascending 
the steep banks, and the fortifications which had been 
thrown up for its defence, before day-light in the morning 
H9 



33 



TidE NOKTHEKN 



of October I3tb, he embarked his troops at the feriy and 
passed over the river under cover of a battery. As the 
accessible points on the coast were strictly watched, and 
defended by batteries of some strength, the place selected 
for the attack was the lo(ty and precipitous bank just 
above. Two or three small batteries had been erected on 
the brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but this 
did not discourage the undertaking. The landing was 
effected, and in spite ot the difficulty of the ascent, the 
heights were surmounted, and the Americans commenced 
a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, who was at 
a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot ; but 
under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance shot. 
The Americans remained in possession of the heights a 
few hours, but were then obliged to recrcss the river. 

The Monument to General Brock 

Was raised by the British government in the year 1824 ; 
and the remains of Gen. Brock have since been deposited 
there. Its height is about 115 feet; and the view from 
the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 350 feet 
above the river. In clear weather the eye embraces not 
only the river below, and the towns of Lewiston and 
Queenston, but those of Newark and Fort Niagara, at the 
entrance of Lake Ontario, part of the route of the Wel- 
land Canal, a vast level tract of country covered with 
a uniform forest, and the horizon formed by the distant 
lake itself. 

The monument is built of a coarse gray limestone, of 
which the hill is formed, and contains some shells and 
other organic remains. The old park for artillery and 
the marks of various works, will be observed in different 
parts of the heights. (For the Welland Canal, see page 91.) 

From Qjiieenston to Jsl'iagara Fulls is 7 miles, over a level, 
sandy road. 

The Seat of Sir Peregrine Maitland, 4 miles, is 
a handsome edifice near the road. It was once the resi- 
dence of the Duke of Richmond. 

Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's is a range 
of rising ground, which overlooks the country and lake 
for a great distance. Near the- top a quantity of human 



TRAVELLER. 36 

bones were recently discovered by the blowing down oi" 
an old tree. A great number of skeletons were found on 
digging, with Indian beads, pipes, &c. and some conch- 
sheils shaped apparently for musical instruments, placed 
under several of the heads. Other perforated shells were 
found, which are said to be known only on the west coast 
of the continent within the Tropics. There were also 
found brass or copper utensils, &c. and the ground looks 
as if it had been defended with a palisade. 

The Whirlpool, sometimes tailed the Devil's Hole, 
cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to the 
bank. The rocks are about 300 feet above the water ; and 
during the late war 50 Americans were driven off by a 
party of Indians, in the night, mistaking the trees for the 
verge of a wood. One was saved by falling into a cedar. 

A leisurely walk the rvhole distance, near the river, 
may please the admirer of nature ; as the high and rocky 
cliffs which form the banks on both sides present a con- 
tinued succession of striking scenes. 

Although the surface of the ground frequently indicates 
the passage of water in some long past period, the whole 
road is much elevated above the river, and owing to 
this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not 
getting a sight of the cataract from a distance, as it re- 
mains concealed by the banks, until he has approached 
very near. It frequently happens also, that the roar of 
the cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn, for 
the intervening bank intercepts the sound so much in 
that direction, that the noise of the wheels is sometimes 
sufficient to drow^n it entirely. Yet, strange as it may 
appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time it 
may very probably be heard on the shore of Lake On- 
tario. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— //om the British side. 

There are two large Inns or Hotels on the Canadian 
side of the river, both situated as near the falls as could 
be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands on what 
ought strictly to be called the upper bank, for that eleva- 
tion appears to have once formed the river's shore. This 
is the larger house ; the galleries and windows in the rear 



34 THE NORTHERN 

command a fine view of the cataract, although not an en- 
tire one, and overlook the rapids and river for several 
miles above. The other house is also commodious, and 
commands the same scene from a different point of view. 

Following a foot path throug;h the pasture behind For- 
syth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep brow 
of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara 
suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads away to the 
left, down the bank, to the verge of the cataract; and 
another to the right, which offers a drier walk, and pre- 
sents a more agreeable and varied scene. 

The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the 
falls, and the water descends so considerably over the 
rapids just before it reaches the precipice, that it seems a 
wonder that the place where you stand is not overflown. 
Probably the water is restrained only by the direction of 
the current, as a little lateral pressure would be suflicient 
to flood the elevated level beside it, where, there can be no 
question, the course of the river once lay. 

Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the cata- 
ract, which commands a fine view of this magnificent 
scene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest point of 
view. The height of the fall on this side is 174 feet per- 
pendicular ; and this height the vast sheet of foam pre- 
serves unbroken, quite round the Grand Crescent, a dis- 
tance, it is estimated, of 700 yards. Goat Island divides 
the cataract, and just beyond it stands an isolated rock. 
The fall on the American side is neither so high, so wide, 
nor so unbroken ; yet, if compared with any thing else 
but the Crescent, would be regarded with emotions of 
indescribable sublimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the 
height 160, and about two- thirds the distance to the bot- 
tom the sheet is broken by projecting rocks. A bridge 
built from the American side connects Goat Island and 
the main land, though invisible from this spot ; and the 
inn on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a little way frora 
the river. 

It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this 
place as often as he can, and to view it from every neigh- 
bouring point ; as every change of light exhibits it under 
a different and interesting aspect. The rainbows are to 
be seen, from this side, onlv in the afternoon : but at that 



TRAVELLER. 85 

time the clouds of mist, which are continually rising from 
the gulf below, often present them in the utmost beauty. 

Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in his Travels, 
of the quantity of water which passes the cataract of Ni- 
agara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, and on 
an average 25 feet deep. The current Tobably runs six 
miles an hour ; but supposing it to be only 5 miles, the 
quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is more than 85 
millions of tons Avoirdupois ; if we suppose it to be 6, it 
will be more than 102 millions : and in a day would be 
2400 millions of tons. The noise is sometimes heard at 
York, 50 miles. 

THE RAPIDS 

begin about half a mile above the cataract ; and, although 
the breadth of the river might at first make them appear 
of little importance, a nearer inspection will convince the 
stranger of their actual size, and the terrific danger of 
the passage. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood re- 
gard it as certain death to get once involved in them ; and 
that not merely because all escape from the cataract would 
be hopeless, but because the violent force of the water 
among the rocks in the channel, would instantly dash the 
bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on record of 
persons being carried down by the stream ; indeed, there 
was an instance of two men carried over in March last; but 
no one is known to have ever survived. Indeed, it is very 
rare that the bodies are found ; as the depth of the gulf 
below the cataract, and the tumultuous agitation of the 
eddies, whirlpools, and counter currents, render it di£BcuIt 
for any thing once sunk to rise again, while the general 
course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hurried far 
down the stream. The large logs which are brought down 
in great numbers during the spring, bear sufficient testi- 
mony to these remarks. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are fre- 
quently precipitated over the cataract, and generally re- 
appear either dead or with their legs or wings broken. 
Some say that water fowl avoid the place when able to 
escape, but that the ice on the shores of the river above 
often prevents them from obtaining food, and that they 
are carried down from mere inability to fly ; while others 



S6 THE NORTHERN 

assert that thej are sometimes seen voluntarily riding 
among the rapids, and after descending half way down 
the cataract, taking wing, and returning to repeat their 
dangerous amusement. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the observer 
when he views the cataract from below; and there he 
may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. 
This scene is represented in one of the plates. To render 
the descent practicable, a j^piral stair case has been form- 
ed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a tall mast ; 
and the stranger descends without fear becau.se his view 
is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough path among 
the rocks winds along at tbe foot of the precipice, although 
the heaps of loose stones which have fallen down, keep 
it at a considerable height above the water. A large rock 
lies on the very brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 
8 feet thick, which you may climb up by means of a lad- 
der, and enjoy the best central view of the falls any where 
to be found. This rock was lormerly a part of the pro- 
jection above, and fell about seven years ago, with a tre- 
mendous roar. It had been observed by Mr. Forsyth to 
be in a very precarious situation, the dav before, and he had 
warned the strangers at his house not to venture near it. 
A lady and gentleman, however, had been so bold as to 
take their stand upon it near evening, to view the cata- 
ract ; and in the night they heard the noise of its fall, 
which shook the house like an earthquake. 

In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, the 
path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one 
place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The vast 
column of water continually pouring over the precipice, 
produces violent whirls in the air ; and the spray is driven 
out with such force, that no one can approach to the edge 
of the cataract, or even stand a few moments near it, 
without being drenched to the skin. It is also very diffi- 
cult CO breathe there, so that persons with weak lungs 
would act prudently to content themselves with a distant 
view, and by no means to attempt to go under the cataract. 
Those who are desirous of exploring this tremendous 
cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps, and 
not allow themselves to be agitated by the sight or the 
sound of the cataract, or to be blinded by the strong dri:- 




^lA C;A11A_, FjROIM BEX. O W, 



TUAVELLER. 87 

ting showers in which they will be continually involved ; 
as a few steps would plunge them into the terrible abyss 
v/hich receives the falling river. 

The.Burning Spring. 

About half a mile above the falls, and within a few feet 
of the rapids in Niagara River, is a remarkable Burning 
Spring. A house has been erected over it, into which ad- 
mission is obtained for a shilling. The water which is 
warm, turbid, and surcharged with sulphurated hydrogen 
gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in the ground, 
and is constantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is 
covered, and the gas escapes only through a copper tube. 
On bringing a candle within a little distance of it, the gas 
takes fire, and continues to burn with a bright flame until 
blown out. By leaving the house closed and the fire ex- 
tinguished, the whole atmosphere within explodes on en- 
tering with a candle. 

While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter may 
vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village of 
Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vicinity; which, during 
the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of two 
sharp contests. 

The Battle of Chippewa. 

In July, 1814, the British and American armies being 
near each other. Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott to make 
an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Capt. 
Tonson's division of artillery ; and the enemy's pickets 
were soon forced to retire across the bridge. Gen. Rip- 
ley came up in the afternoon and encamped with Gen. 
Scott's advance. 

The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of 
these operations, by going to Chippewa Village, about two 
miles above Forsyth's. The American encampment of 
July 23d, is in the rear of a tavern near the road, about 
a mile beyond Chippewa. The following cfescription of 
the battle is from an account already published. 

" On the morning of the 4th, the British Indians had 
filled the woods contiguous to the American encampment. 



jiS THE NORTHERN 

and commenced firing at the pickets. Reconnoitering 
parties from Chippewa were frequently observed during 
the day along the river road ; and information was re- 
ceived that reinforcements had arrived. 

** On the 5th, the same course was pursued. The In- 
dians were discovered almost in the rear of the American 
camp. At this moment Gen. Porter arrived with his 
volunteers and Indians. General Brown immediately di- 
rected them to enter the woods and efFectualiy scour them. 
Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley, were at the white house, 
in advance reconnoitering. Gen. Porter's corps seemed 
sweeping like a torrent every thing before them, until 
they almost debouched from the woods opposite Chippe- 
wa. In a moment a volley of musquetry convinced Gen. 
Brown that the whole British force had crossed the Chip- 
pewa Bridge, and that the action must become general- 
He gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance, and 
to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness to support. In a few 
minutes the British line was dicovered formed and rapidly 
advancing — their right (the Royal Scots) upon the woods, 
and their left (the prince regent's) on the river, with the 
king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain 
the bridge across the creek in front of the encampment, 
which, if done, would have compelled the Americans to 
retire. Gen. Brown fearing a flank movement of the 
enemy through the woods on the left, with a view to seize 
the American reserve of artillery, directed Gen. Ripley 
not to advance until he gave him orders. At the same 
time he rode to the first line with his staff and an escort 
of 30 dragoons, in order to direct the whole movements 
of the field, and animate the troops by his presence. 
Meanwhile General Scott, under a most tremendous fire 
from the enemy's artillery, crossed the bridge which the 
enemy had endeavoux'ed to gain, and formed his line. 
The British orders were to give one volley at a distance, 
and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of 
our musquetry that they could not v/ithstand it. Af this 
moment General Brown sent orders to Gen. Ripley to 
make a movement through the woods upon the enemy's 
right flank. With the 21st regiment he passed a ravine 
in his front, where the men had to wade up to their chins, 
and advanced as rapidly as possible. But before he com- 



TRAVELLER. HH 

jnenced filing from the woods into the open land under the 
enemy's batteries, they had been completely broken by 
the cool bravery and discipline of Gen. Scott's brigade, 
and precipitated themselves across the Chippewa Bridge, 
which they broke down on their retreat." 

Although the Americans were not able to cross the 
creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa 
very precipitately, a'nd to retreat towards Queenston. 

In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded and 
missing, was 514, and the American loss 32S. 

Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 
25th of the same month, the date of 

The Battle of Bridgewater, or Lundt's Lane. 

The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody 
action is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an ob- 
Vscure road, called Lundy's Lane. Since their retreat 
from Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements 
of troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain ; and on 
the 25th of July encamped on a hill, with the design of 
attacking the American camp the next morning. At 6 in 
the evening. Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance 
and attack them, which was immediately done ; and in 
conjunction with Gen. Ripley the attack was commenced 
in an hour. The British were much surprised at seeing 
the approach of their enemy at this hour, not having dis- 
covered them until they left the woods and began to 
march across the open level fields seen from Forsyth's 
Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the left. The 
battle was kept up with great resolution on both sides, 
until half past ten at night. The armies, it is said, were 
within twenty yards of each other for two hours, and 
sometimes so mingled together, that, in spite of a clear 
moon, platoons were sometimes ordered by officers of the 
other army. 

The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the 
American regiments, the day after the engagement, con- 
tains some interesting particulars : 

**Tn the afternoon the enemy advanced towards Chip- 
I 



90 THE NORTHERN 

pewa with a powerful force. At 6 o*clock General Scott 
was ordered to advance with his brigade and attack them. 
He was soon reinforced by General Ripley's brigade : 
they met the enemy below the falls. They bad selected 
their ground for the night, intending to attack our camp 
before daylight. The action began just before 7, and an 
uninterrupted stream of musketry continued till half past 
8, when there was some cessation, the British falling back. 
It soon began again with some artillery, which, with slight 
interruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was 
a charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- 
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering 
on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each re- 
tired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. Such a 
constant and destructive fire was never before sustained 
by American troops without falling back. 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wel- 
lington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two 
hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of 
each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an 
officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon 
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the 
Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They fre- 
quently charged, and were as often driven back. Our re- 
giment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the 
British battery. We charged, and took every piece of the 
enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and 
cannon until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back 
more than two miles. This was done to secure our 
camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the 
rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there 
being no ropes to the pieces, we got off" but two or three. 
The men were so excessively fatigued they could not 
drag them. We lost one howitzer, the horses being on 
full gallop towards the enemy to attack them, the riders 
were shot off and the horses ran through the enemy's line. 
We lost one piece of cannon, which was too much ad- 
vanced, every man being shot that had charge of it, but 
two. Several of our caissons were blown up by their 
rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our cannon 



TRAVELLER. 91 

of ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon 
could not be used with advantage." 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
878 ; and the Americans 860. 

WELLAND CANAL. 

In 1825 a canal was begun on the Canada side of 
Niagara falls, to connect the navigation of Lakes Erie 
and Ontario, and will be calculated for the passage of 
sloops. The Chippewa River is to be the feeder, and the 
land presenting great facilities, the greatest confidence is 
indulged of its success. The distance across is only 32 
or 33 miles, and the expense i$ estimated at less than a 
million of pounds sterling. 300,000/. of the stock were 
taken up in New- York. It is said, by the Canadians, 
that this canal will be accessible from Lake Erie four or 
five weeks earlier in the spring than the harbour of Buffa- 
lo, in consequence of the ice being much heaped up at 
the latter place by the current and winds. 

It has been proposed to make canals for sloop naviga- 
tion from Prescott to Montreal. The advantages of those 
works, taken into view with the Welland, are easy to esti- 
mate. At present, the transportation of 1000 staves from 
Lake Erie to Montreal costs $90. If all these canals 
were made, the cost would be reduced to $50. Sloops, 
carrying 6000 staves, could make six trips a year, and 
gain jJlSOO. A barrel of flour now pays 6s. for that dis- 
tance, and would pay only 3s. A ton of merchandise 
now costs 4L 5s. for transportation between Prescott and 
Montreal, and would then cost only 1/. 75. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 

We extract the following account of the great Western 
Lakes from an essay published in the New- York States- 
man: 

1. The Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 
feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above 
the elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 miles be- 
Jew Gape ^ncent^ 



iJ2 THE NORTHERN 

2. Erie is 270 miles long-, 60 miles wide, 200 feet deep ; 
and its surface is ascertained to be 565 feet above tide 
water at Albany. 

3. Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 
900 feet deep ; and its surface is near 595 feet above the 
tide water. 

4. Michigan is 400 miles long, 60 wide, depth unknown j 
elevation the same as Huron. 

5. Green Bay is about 105 miles long, 20 miles wide, 
depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Michi- 
gan. 

6. Lake Superior is 450 miles long, 109 miles average 
width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above the 
tide water. 

Hence it is easy to calculate that the bottom of Lake 
Erie is not as low as the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the 
bottom of each of the other lakes, it will be observed, is 
lower than the surface of the ocean. 

Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reservoir 
of the mighty volume that fills the rivers, expands the 
lakes, and roars over the cataracts of Niagara, St. Law- 
rence, &c. After making a semicircle of five degrees to 
the south, accommodating and enriching one of the most 
fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it meets the 
tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 
from the extreme point of its estuary, on the Atlantic 
coast. 

General Remarks. 



There was, perhaps, no part of our frontier where the 
%var was regarded with so much dislike and dread as here. 
Many of the inhabitants of this part of Canada were emi- 
grants from New-Yoik, New- Jersey, and Pennsylvania, 
and a constant intercourse kept np across the river has 
united the people on both sides like one people. Many 
of the militiamen who were here called into action by the 
invasion of their territory, had friends and family relations 
in the opposite army ; so that the contest was to them a 
civil war in its effects, divested of all the impulse of 
passion. 



TRAVELLEK. ii^ 

A little attention to the appearance and language of the 
people, and their various manners and customs, will show 
that they are collected from many different regions, and 
have amalgamated very imperfectly. At the close of the 
revolutionary war, the British government offered great 
encouragement to settlers on this tract of country, from 
whatever districts they might come. The situation of 
the place necessarily excludes all distant intercourse with 
other parts of the country; and the original manners 
have therefore remained with little alteration. There 
are some Germans from Europe, and many from Penn- 
sylvania, mingled with people from New-York and New- 
Jersey ; and their descent is often apparent from their 
countenances and dialect, as well as the aspect of their 
dwellings and farms. There is a village a little removed 
from the high road, where little else but German is 
spoken. 

The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile 
below the falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the 
day, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the 
current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it 
has been necessary to build a stair-case. 

TO BUFFALO, ON THE CANADA SIDE, 

281 miles. 

To Chippewa, 2 miles. 

Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) 16 

(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cents each passenger.) 
Buffalo, 2^ 

Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort 
Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. 
There are the remains of a strong wall, surrounded with 
entrenchments reaching to the lake. The remains of the 
British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded 
with shot. 

Battle op Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, 
a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort 
Erie, when part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars 
and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British 
works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The Bri- 
tish had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the 
fort, and were about opening a third. Their camp was 
12 



9i THE NOKTHER^ 

about two rniles distant, sheltered by a wood : their works 
were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, from 12 
to 1500 men, and a detachment of artillery. 

Gen. Porter with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with the 
riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st light infan- 
try, and a few dismounted dragoons, were sent from the 
extreme left of the American position, by a passage cut 
through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and Gen. 
Miller %vas stationed in the ravine between the fort and 
the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley had a reserve 
under the bastions. 

A little before 3 P. M- the left columns commenced 
their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the 
same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and 3 of the 
batteries, broke their line, and took their two block 
houses. Battery No. 1 was soon after deserted, and the 
guns were spiked ; and the magazine of No. 3 was blown 
up. Gen. llipley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed. 
The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the 
remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to march from 
their camp and partake in it. The Americans at length 
retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object. 
The British suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond 
broke up his camp on the 21st, and retired to his en- 
trenchments behind the Chippewa River. 

General Remarks on Upper Canada. This exten- 
sive district has begun to increase in population with 
great rapidity, and great exertions are making to intro- 
duce improvements of various kinds. The Welland Ca- 
nal, which has already been spoken of, promises advan- 
tages of great importance to the colonies ; and, as has been 
before remarked, threatens to take off much of the trans- 
portation from the western part of the New- York Erie- 
Canal. 

Emigration has been so much encouraged by the Bri- 
tish government, for the peopling of this part of their 
possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, and 
English, have come over within a few years. In the 7 years 
pi'eceding 1825, 68,000 emigrants arrived at Quebec; and 
in 1825, 9000 ; of whom one-third settled in Lower Cana- 
da, and one-third went to the United States. The popu- 
lation of Lower Canada was then 420,679. 



TRAVELLEK. 95 

According to Fothei^ill's report, there were, in Upper 
Canada, 989,294 acres of cultivated land ; grist mills, 
304 ; saw mills, 386 ; merchant stores, 394 ; houses, 
30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calves, 
35,000 i 290 townships surveyed, containing in all 17 
million acres ; about two millions wild lands ; distillers' 
duty, $46,000. 

The charasteristic of that part of Upper and Lower 
Canada seen on the usual routes of travellers, is its flat- 
ness and monotonous aspect. Between the two great 
lakes there is some variety of surface ; but the view from 
Queenston heights towards the east embraces a vast 
plain, almost as level as the water itself, and still more 
extensive. The surface is, in many places, varied by 
gentle elevations and depressions, but not sufficiently to 
make it appear uneven from a distai/cc. 

TO BUFFALO, ON THE AMERICAN SIDE, 
301 miles. 

Tonnewanta Creek, where the canal passes 11 miles. 

Black Rock 10 

Buffalo 21 

TO FORT GEORGE, 
14 miles. 

Queenston 7 

Fort George 7 

[The route from J^tagara to Albany and the Springs will 
be taken up after the route to Montreal.] 



06 THE NORTHERN 



ROUTE FROM. NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 

392 miles. 

Those who have never travelled through the state of 
New-York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a route, 
will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Rochester, and 
take the line of the Erie Canal, the Springs, Lake George, ^ 
find Lake Champlain, in their way to Montreal. Many, m 
however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which ^ 
is by the steam boats through Lake Ontario, and is per- 
formed in about two days. Tiie American boat goes from 
Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh,keeping towards the southern 
shore, and touching at the principal ports. The British 
boat makes a few stops, but steers a course very near the 
middle of the lake, which is the boundary between the 
two countries : she is usually out of sight of land about 
twelve hours. 

The British Boat goes from Queenston to Prescott ; 
thence a stage coach to Cornwall, 50 miles; Coteau du 
Lac, steam boat, 36 ; Cascades, coach, 16 ; Lachinc, 
steam boat, 23 ; Montreal, coach, 9. 
American Boat. 

Port Genesee, 72 m. At the mouth of the Genesee 
River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here is a custom 
house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe county. This 
river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a gently winding 
course about 125 miles in the state of New- York. It is 
navigable only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage, 
where the banks are high, rocky, and perpendicular ; and 
there is a fine fall (104 feet, including the rapids, &c.) 
about half a mile above. Stage coaches are in waiting 
for Rochester, 6 miles. See Carthage, page 76. 

Great Sodds Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in suc- 
cession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three 
Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the bay, only 
IO5 miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road 
to it, 

Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of 
Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet water. 
Navigation ends half a mile above, except for boats, 



TRAVELLER. 57 

•which go 12 miles further. A very large button-wood 
tree, 35^ feet in circumference, a mile from the village 
near the road. This place is 36 miles from Salina, with 
which it is to be connected by a canal. It is apprehended, 
however, that such a work, which has been already com- 
menced, will draw off a great deal of the transportation 
from that part of the Erie Canal, west, into Lake Onta- 
rio, and the Welland Canal round Niagara Falls. 

Oswego Fort, so famous in the history of the French 
and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the 
river. The situation was very advantageous for the com- 
mand of a large extent of country, as this river is the 
common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. 
While this post was held alternately by the French and 
English, they could command a great part of the trade 
with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the 
country with which it communicated. 

Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the 
level of the water ; and being overlooked by the eminence 
on which Fort Ontario was afterwards erected, was fit only 
for a defence in early times. A trading house was built 
here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was ex- 
tended in the beginning of the French war of 1755, when 
Fort Ontario was built. t)n the following year, Gen. 
Montcalm came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses 
with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was 
evacuated after one attack ; and on the following day, 
August 14th, Fort Oswego surrendered to the French, 
with a large quantity of stores brought at great expense 
through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. 
also, 2 sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, how- 
ever, did not think proper to hold the position, but imme- 
diately abandoned it. 

Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this 
route, in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; 
but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. Fish, and 
obliged to return. 

In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the 
place, and after a loss of about 100 men, got possession 
of it, but evacuated it the next day. 

Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late 



US THE NORTHERN 

war, it became an important naval station, and increased 
very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the lake, on 
Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into two by a 
narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship build- 
ing. A first rate man-of-war is still unfinished, on the 
stocks, under a shelter, and another at Black River. On 
the shore are seen the stone Barracks, which enclose 
about ten acres of ground. 

Cape Vincent, 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here divided 
by Grand Island. Kingston, in U. Canada, lies opposite, 
at the distance of 11 miles. 

MoRRiSTOWN. This is a small village, 10 miles from 
Ogdensburg. Tht river is a little more than a mile in 
breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a 
number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and the 
gentle slope of the land on the New-York shore, adds 
a great degree of beauty to the scene. 

General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. 

Ogdensburgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the end 
of the navigation, and here the steam boat stops. The 
village is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries 
on considerable business. On the other side of the river 
is Prescott, where the British steam boat stops. The 
ruins of Fort Oswegatchie, or Fort Presentation, may still 
be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a 
bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. It was 
built in the beginning or middle of the last century. Grapes 
are cultivated here with great success. 

The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of 
the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety of 
forms, though never rising to any great elevation. They 
might be compared with the islands of Lake George. 

Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. Law- 
rence begin. A number of mills will be seen at different 
places on the shore. On Slony Island was a fort of some 
consequence, which was taken by Gen. Amherst on his 
way to Montreal, in the year 1760. 

St. Rkgis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this 
name have a reservation of land here 1 1 miles by 3. 

Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) 

Montreal. 9 m% 



TRAVELLER. 99 



ROUTE FROM NL\GARA TO ALBANY, 

Blacr Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar- 
gin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, and op- 
posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was 
burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has since 
been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Con- 
gress have voted a remuneration for losses on this fron- 
tier. Gen. Porter has a fine bouse in this place. Black 
Rock long disputed with Buffalo the privilege of having 
the Basin of the Canal built in her harbour, and at last 
obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built 
to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of the 
lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the 
canal to Tonnewanta Creek. 

All this expense, however, is now considered as lost : 
for the swiftess of the current in the river, and the heap- 
ing up of the ice on the shores, prove great obstacles to 
the navigation. In consequence. Black Rock suddenly- 
stopped its growth, and in 1825, only one house was built 
in the village, while 70 were erected the same year ia 
Buffalo. 

BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. 

Inns. — The Eagle Tavern ; and three other large ones. 

The situation of this village is remarkably convenient 
and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, 
rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The 
principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking 
out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented 
with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome 
dwelling houses, together with several public buildings, 
all erected since the burning of the village by the British 
in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, 
which are fast increasing every year. In April, 1814, 
only one house was standing in the village, that of a 
widow in the upper part of the street. A large piece of 
ground has been left vacant in the middle of the town for 
a public square, where several important roads meet, and 



100 THE NORTHERN 

which it is intended to ornament with public edifices. A 
walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill to- 
wards the Lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords 
a charming view upon the lake, the harbour, and the 
canal, to Black Rock. In 1825, a small village grew up 
below the Terrace, 5 taverns being built, with 65 other 
houses, before which there was bat one house. One of 
them will accommodate 200 persons. The largest store 
in the state is believed, to be one of these which is 90 feet 
by 70, and 3 stories high. The township was found to 
contain 6000 inhabitants that year. 

The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature foi 
the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here 
brought together ; the entrance from the Lake being shel- 
tered by the point on which the light house is erected, and 
the two small rivers which here unite their waters, af- 
fording every convenience for landing and reshipping 
goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are 
connected by a natural channel, which serves the pur- 
poses of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; 
and as the canal to Black Rock commences close by it, 
the inland transportation begins without more ado. 

The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of the 
Lake. The first part of it is through a Sow, sandy level, 
where the excavations were much impeded by the water 
which soaked through in great abundance. About half a 
mile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old 
half-decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of 
six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branches 
and logs were discovered, which preserved all the grain 
of the wood, but the greater part was a black mass of 
matter, which, on being dried, burned with great readi- 
ness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and 
some of the logs appeared to have been washed and roll- 
ed by the water of the lake before ihey were buried. 
Beyond this place is a bed of silicious rock, which re- 
quired much labour and expense in cutting and blastin^r 
through it. 

Lake Erie is 565 feet above tide water. 



TRAVELLER. 101 



VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. 

At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those who 
are disposed to travel still farther westward. Ihere is 
little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which 
would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a 
long ride over a country generally level, or for the incon- 
veniences he would experience from the want of public 
accommodations, and even the frequent absence of set- 
tlements. The only mode of travelling, therefore, is by 
water ; and great numbers of passengers pass every sea- 
son between this port and the principal towns on the 
Lake, chiefly in the steam boats. The price of a passage 
to Detroit in the cabin is $15, and in the steerage, where 
nothing is supplied but ship room and access to the kitch- 
en, half price. The following are the stopping places on 
the passage to Detroit, with their distances. 

From Buffalo to Erie, ^ 90 miles. 

Erie* to Grand River, 75 

Grand River to Cleaveland, 30 

Cleaveland to Sandusky, 60 

Sandusky to Detroit, 75 

Total 330 

Green Bay, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a position 
occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a large 
number of Indians, for whose improvement some exer- 
tions have been recently made. The principal tribe resi- 
ding there is the Menominie, or Wild Rice Indians, who 
are both numerous and powerful, and partly civilized. 
They have recently received an addition to their num 
hers by having been joined by the remnant of the Stock- 
bridge tribe, to whom they have offered a share of their 



* The Ohio Canal is to begin at the mouth of Scioto River, 
following up its course, cross to the Muskingum, and follow 
that stream to Lake Erie. (See Gazetteer or Ohio.) 
7C 



1(^2 THE NORTHERA 

land. The latter are civilized in such a degree as to have 
pretty good farms, and to practice some of the mechanic 
arts, though they principally depend on hunting and fish- 
ing, particularly the latter, which is very important to 
them. 



Ancient Fortifications. 

On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River also, are 
several large and interesting remnants of Ancient Forti- 
fications ; but as they lie off the road, few travellers will 
visit them. They gppear to form part of a great chain 
of defensive works extending from the eastern part of 
Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down the Ohio 
and Mississippi Rivers to Mexico. This is the opinion of 
Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, who has published 
some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected 
with them, in his " Archaeologia Americana." A line of 
old forts extends from Cataraugus Creek, 50 miles, along 
the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylvania. 
They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although 
now from 2 to 5 miles distant from the Lake, which is 
supposed to have retired that distance since they were 
built. Another similar iine is said to exist in the rear of 
them, on another parallel elevation- 

Much curiosity and speculation have been called forth 
by these singular monuments of antiquity. Some regard 
them as marks of a civilized people ; others as the works 
of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tradition referring 
them to the latter are said to have been lately discovered. 

Seneca Castle. The Seneca nation possess a large 
and valuable tract of land adjoining Buffalo on the cast, 
and they have two villages 3 and 5 miles on the road. 
The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy 
of the Five Nations, and have always held a conspicuous 
rank in their history. They were formerly considered the 
most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this 
superiority until the fatal defeat they received from Gen. 
Schuyler, in 1778, since which they have made a less 
conspicuous figure. 

The residence of (his ration nfter thev fled from Cana- 



TRAVELLER. 103 

da, before tbeir enemies the Adirondacs, was principally 
upon the shores of Seneca Lake, though their lands ex- 
tended to Niagara River and north of Lake Erie, of which 
they long had the command. They are now reduced to 
a few hundred, some of them residing here, and some in 
other Indian villages farther east. Besides the land they 
possess, which is remarkable for its fertility, the nation 
are in possession of a large sum in the United States 
Bank stock, the dividend for which they receive annually. 

The most remarkable person of the Seneca nation 
now living, is the famous Red Jacket, who inhabits a 
small log house, in a very retired situation, about four 
miles from Buffalo, and one mile north of the road through 
the reservation. He has rendered himself conspicuous 
for many years by his eloquence, and formerly possessed 
an extensive influence over his countrymen. But he is 
now old and poor, and worse still, not too temperate. 
He has always maintained a resolute opposition to the in- 
troduction of the Christian religion among his nation, 
and once succeeded in excluding all ministers from 
entering the reservation. This was done by the authori- 
ty of the state under a regulation intended to guard 
against the admission of ill-disposed persons, who are al- 
ways found ready to impose upon the Indians, get them 
in their power, and endeavour, by fomenting uneasiness, 
as well as by threats and promises, to induce them to re- 
move and leave their lands. 

Billy is another very old man of the tribe, and of a 
character very different from that of Red Jacket. He is 
a good orator, but his real worth as well as his influence, 
depends on the more substantial qualities of a sincere and 
consistent Christian. His example, and the instruction 
for some time enjoyed in the nation, have produced great 
effects on a portion of the families. The traveller will 
observe several farms under a degree of cultivation, and 
may meet with individuals who conform pretty nearly to 
the English style of dress, and have introduced some of 
our customs into their houses. The greater part of them, 
however, speak no language but Indian. 



104 THE NORTHERN 



Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. 

The first few miles of this road present very little in- 
terest ; 15 or 20 miles of it pass over an old causeway of 
logs, and the country for that distance is a forest, with 
hardly any signs of inhabitants. The logs make the tra- 
velling rough and disagreeable ; but as they are gradually 
covered over with earth, the difl&culties are lessening 
every year. To those who are not accustomed to a coun- 
try so new and wild as this, a word or two may not be 
amiss on the manner in which roads are first made in an 
American settlement. In thick forests, the surface of the 
ground is covered to the depth of one or two feet with the 
roots of trees, which are extremely diflBcult to be re- 
moved, and are very dangerous for horses or oxen to pass 
over. A close layer of logs, although itself sufficiently 
rough, forms a much safer and more convenient path, 
and is usually adopted with great advantage. There is 
another reason for it — the elevation of the road above 
the common surface, secures it from being overflowed by 
the water, which in the moist seasons of the year would 
impede the travelling in low and marshy places. When 
the logs decay, they are apt to form bad ruts and holes, 
which should be filled with earth or gravel. Indeed, the 
usual practice is, as the road becomes more travelled, and 
the inhabitants increase, to cover it all with a thick bed 
of earth ; and roads thus formed are proverbial for their 
excellence. 

BATAVIA, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome 
village, and contains the residpnce of Mr, Otto, the Agent 
of the Holland Land Company, as well as the county 
buildings, and the house of Mr. Elliot, the former agent 
of the above-mentioned company. 

At LEROY, 10 miles, a number of curious stones were 
discovered in 1824, which were at first supposed to be 
petrified Sea Thirties. They were found in the bed of 
Allen's Creek, about^OO yards north of the village bridge, 
and usually weighed from one to three or fonr hundred 



I 



TRAVELLER. lOy 

pounds, although some have been picked up in another 
place in the neighbourhood, not much larger than a man's 
hand. Several were found imbedded in the lime stone 
rock through which the stream has cut its way, lying ho- 
rizontally, yet evidently of an older formation! They 
consist of a dark coloured bituminous lime sto/ie, which 
readily splits in the middle, and betrays a number of 
whitish crystalline veins, traversing each other nearly at 
right angles, and growing thicker in the middle, and often 
containing a quantity of yellow clay, or ochre, with a few 
holes filled with a bituminous oily substance which flows 
out. These stones certainly are very curious specimens, 
but the original theory is not likely to be received. 

The Wadsworth Farm at Geneseo, is so far and so 
justly famed for its size and fertility, and still more for 
the admirable system of cultivation under which it is car- 
ried on, that every man of taste who passes this way, will 
find great gratification in stopping to see it, particularly 
if he is personally interested in the improvement of agri- 
ciilture. 

Mr. Wadsworth's farm contains about 4000 acre?, 
about li'OO of which are rich alluvial land on the banks 
of the Genesee River. He combines science with prac- 
tical knowledge in the management of it in such a manner 
as to enjoy the proper benefits of both ; while he studies to 
introduce all valuable improvements, he is careful to pre- 
serve every method which experience has proved really 
valuable. Time is here most systematically divided, and 
labour is carefully saved in every case where an ingenious 
machine or a wise expedient can be resorted to with ad- 
vantage. Various branches of agriculture have been 
tried on this fertile tract of country ; but the raising of 
sheep has been found the most profitable, and the farm 
has been almost entirely converted into mowing fields 
and pastures. 

The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spacious 
building, in a commanding situation ; and the whole as- 
pect of the farm indicates the good order and method with 
which it is conducted. 

The Genesee meadows were formerly the residence of 
a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when 
Gen. Sullivan reached this place in his march through the 



10$ THE NORTHERN 

country, he found and burnt a considerable village of ISlO 
log houses, on the second bank, which had been deserted 
at his approach. One of his scouts was cut off while his 
army was near the west bank of the river, and only one 
man escaped ; but the Indians constantly fled as he ap- 
proached, and there was no fighting in all this western part 
of the state. A large tract of fine land adjoining the 
Wadsworth farm is now possessed by a woman belonging 
to the Seneca nation. She is called *' the Indian White 
Woinan,^* as she was taken prisoner from some frontier 
settlement, many years ago, when she was very young, 
adopted by the savages, and married to a Chief of the 
tribe. 

The remains of a Mammoth were dug up about half a 
mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. There were 8 
teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a thigh bone 3 feet 
long, the lower bone of the leg 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They 
lay between strata of vegetable mould and sand. 

West Bloomfield, beyond the Genesee Kiver, is one 
of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and pre- 
sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and 
yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkably well 
in all this western country, as the slightest attention to 
the orchards will sufficiently prove ; and while in smooth- 
ness and neatness the fields rival those of the oldest dis- 
tricts farther east, the orchards exceed them in luxuriance 
and products. The Black Jipple is a species of fruit 
which has been said to be peculiar to this region. The 
darkness and peculiarity of its colour, are sufficient to 
distinguish it at a considerable distance ; and the flavour 
is fine, although it does not arrive at maturity until it has 
been kept some weeks in the winter. 

East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general 
remarks just made may with justice be applied to this 
place also. 

CANANDAIGUA. 

Inn. ■ Blossom's Stage House. 

This is one of the finest of the western towns, and its 
principal street runs along the ridge of a commanding 
hill? rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It 



_///, 



]Vorih 

M 'jT j^l M JI (B 



''>vv»/„ 




TRAVELLER. 107 

is wide, and contains many large and handsome houses, 
particularly that of the late Gideon Granger. It is to be 
regretted, when the fine appearance of this town is con- 
sidered, that it should not have been built nearer the lake, 
and on some of those fine elevations which overlook this 
beautiful sheet of water. The road, in passing Canan- 
daigua Lake, commands a finer view of scenery than on 
any of the other lakes it passes. The banks are high and 
variegated, and at the distance of two or three miles, rise 
to an imposing height, and add a great degree of beauty 
to the scene. A number of gentlemen's seats are seen 
along the western bank ; and a little way off in the lake 
on the same, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca 
Indians carried all their women, children, and old men, 
when Gen. Sullivan appeared against them. 
Stage coaches go to Rochester every day. 

Burning Springs. 

Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are 
quite com .-non in the vicinity of this place. The follow- 
ing description of tht m is extracted from an account pub- 
lished in a Canandaigua newspaper, in February, 1825 : 

" These Springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and 
Canandaigua. 

The former are situated in a ravine on the west side of 
Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from the North Presby- 
terian Meeting House. The ravine is formed in clay slate, 
and a small brook runs through it. The gas rises through 
fissures of the slate, from both the margin and the bed of 
the brook. Where it rises through the water, it is formed 
into bubbles, and flashes only when the flame is applied ; 
but where it rises directly from the rock, it burns with a 
steady and beautiful flame, which continues until extin- 
guished by storms, or by design. 

The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to two 
miles south-westerly from the village of Rushville, along 
a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bottom of the 
valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at an elevation 
of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. 

The latter have been discovered within a few years, iji 
a field which had been long cleared, and are very nurne- 



lO^ THE NORTHERN 

toas. Their places are known by little hillocks of a few 
feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark 
bituminous mould, which seems principally to have been 
deposited by the gas, and through which it finds its way 
to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents 
of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady 
flame. In winter they form openings through the snow, 
and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting 
phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with 
nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes 
of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably 
from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which 
sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas 
issuing from their tops ; the whole when lighted in a still 
evening, presenting an appearance even more beautiful 
than the former. 

Within a few days, the proprietors of this field have 
put into operation a plan for applying the gas to economi- 
cal purposes. From a pit which was sunk in one of the 
hillocks, the gas is conducted through bored logs, to the 
kitchen of the dwellirg, and rises through an aperture a 
little more than half an inch in diameter, in the door of a 
small cooking stove. When inflamed, the mixture of gas 
and common air in the stove first explodes, and then the 
stream burns steadily. The heat evolved is considerable ; 
so that even this small supply is said to be sufficient for 
cooking. In another part of the room, a stream of the 
gas, from an orifice one-eighth of an inch in diameter, is 
kindled in the evening, and affords the light of two or 
three candles. The novelty of the spectacle attracts a 
concourse of visiters so great, that the proprietors have 
found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a public 
inn. 

The springs of the town of Canandaigua are situated 
on both sides of the lake, within three miles of the village. 
They have not been particularly examined. 

Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that it 
consists principally of a mixture of the light and heavy 
carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly the 
preponderance ; and that it contains a small proportion of 
carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a little oily or 
bituminous matter in solution. It burns with a lambent^ 



TKAVELLER. 109 

yellowish tJacie, scarcely inclining to red, with small scin- 
tillations of a bright red at its base. It has the odour of 
pit coal. It produces no smoke, but deposits, while burn- 
ing, a small quantity of bituminous lampblack. It is re- 
markable that the hillocks, through which the gas rises, 
are totally destitute of vegetation. Whether the gas is 
directly deleterious to \egetable life, or indirectly, by in- 
terrupting the contact of the air of the atmosphere, it is 
certain that no plant can sustain life within the circle of 
its influence. 

It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in 
coal mines ; and being arciuf ntally set on fire, (mixed as 
it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) has 
many times caused terrible and destructive explosions. 
The writer cannot learn that it has ever been known to 
be generated in the earth, except in the presence of coal ; 
and hence the inference is strong, that it proceeds from 
coal. If we add to this the fact, that there is no sub- 
stance in the earth, except coal and other vegetable and 
animal remains, from which, by any known natural pro- 
cess, the elements of the gas could be obtained, the proof 
almost amounts to demonstration. The oily deposite 
•which has been mentioned, may be considered as a further 
proof of the correctness of the inference." 

The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passes 
over a singular tract of country, the form of which will 
not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The 
distance is 26 miles ; and the ground gradually rises by 
large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance, 
and descends in the same manner on the other side to 
Seneca Lake. These steps or terraces, appear to have 
been formed by those strong currents of water of which 
geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time 
have evidently passed over many tracts of country in 
different parts of the world. The ridges and channels 
thus formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a 
considerable distance, corresponding both in form and di- 
rection with the numerous lakes which are found in this 
part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been 
traced here. From the middle ridge the view is extensive ; 
but the surrounding country is of too uniform a surface 
to present any remarkable variety of scenery. The form 



110 THE NORTHERiS 

adapts it peculiarly to agriculture , indeed, did the soil but 
correspond in richness, the whole scene would be peculiar- 
ly delightful in an agricultural point of view. 

GENEVA. 

This town occupies a charming situation at the head 
of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, 
which rises to a considerable elevation above the surface, 
and affords room for a broad and level street. The build- 
ings in this village are remarkably neat and handsonie. 
It contains one of the most comfortable Inns in the state, 
kept by Mr. Lynch. 

A college has lately been instituted in this place. 

Seneca Lake 

is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is un- 
usually great, and the water clear and very cold, to which 
is referred the scarcity of fish. There is a remarkable 
phenomenon long observed by those who reside near it, 
which has never been satisfactorily accounted for. The 
water has a regular rise and fall every seven years. This 
is perceptible along the shore, but more practically esta- 
blished in the experience of the boatmen, who are ac- 
customed to conduct boats through the Seneca River, to 
the canal, as they formerly did to Oneida Lake, and down 
the Mohawk River. 

The land on the borders pf Seneca Lake is valuable for 
many miles, and is inhabited by a mixed population from 
New-Jersey, Maryland, &c. with a number of English 
families. Towards the southern end of the lake, the soil 
changes for the worse ; but in a few years the productions 
of these shores may be expected to form a much more im- 
portant figure than they do at present, among the vast 
amount of transports that annually flow down the great 
Canal. 

A stage coach runs from Geneva down the west side of 
the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga Lake, to 
the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not interesting, and 
the more agreeable mode of reaching that village is by 



North 



iF^Oswrego 

O S \^ E G O C? 




THAVELLEli. Ill 

taking the steam boat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Ge- 
neva, on the great mail route. 

Cayuga Lake 

is 40 miles in lengthy and generally about 2 in breadth. 
Its water is shailow, the depth being generally only a 
few feet. A fine bridge is built across it near the northern 
end, where it is a mile wide. The steam boat Experiment 
plies between Cayuga bridge and Ithaca, at the head of 
the lake, in such a manner as to meet the stage coaches on 
the new route from Ithaca to New- York, returning the 
same days. It is small, and frequently used to tow canal 
boats on the lake ; but it is large enough to accommodate 
a considerable number of passengers, and is frequently 
crowded with parties from the neighbouring country, as 
well as travellers, as the excursion is one of the pleasant- 
est that can be taken in this part of the state. It also 
connects several important lines of stage coaches, which 
the traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to go to 
Catskill, Jfewburg, J^^ew-York, or J<{'ew- Jersey, by the most 
direct route. These routes will be more particularly 
noticed on arriving at Ithaca. [The proposed State Road 
to lead through the southern counties to Lake Erie, will 
probably, if constructed, pass here.*] 



* The commissioners for the survey of routes for the State 
Road, gave the following statements in 1825, before their sur- 
veys were completed. 

Miles. 
From Catskill, or Athens, to Bath, by the way of Ithaca, 221 
From Kingston, by the way of Colchester and Walton, in 

the county of Delaware, and Spencer in the countyof 

Tioga, to Bath, 227 

From Kingston, by the way of Warwarsing, Deposit, 

Bingharapton, Owego, and Newtown, to Bath, 232 

From Newburgh to Bath, by the way of Deposit, 236 

From opposite Poujrhkeepsie, through New Paltz, &c. to 

Bath, ^ 230 

From Nyack, in Rockland county, to Bath, by the way 

of Monticello and Shohocken, 264 

There are but two points on Lake Erie to which the com- 
missioners directed their smveys to be .made, viz. Portland 



115? THE NORTHBiRN 

The price of a passage in the steam boat is one dollar ^ 
and the scenes brought to view in passing along are some- 
times inviting, although the shores are generally too mo- 
notonous and of too little elevation to afford any striking 
features. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, 
a beautiful Waterfall is seen on the left hand, where a 
stream of water flows over a very high precipice into a 
deep glen, and forces its way along, turning several valu- 
able mills in its course. The landing place is about three 
miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass 



and Dunkirk, in the country of Chautauque. The distance 
from Bath to Portland is about 143 miles, and from Bath to 
Dunkirk about 129 miles. Making the distances upon the en- 
tire routes, as follows : 

Miles. 
From Catskill, or Athens, to Portland, on lake Erie, 365 

From Kingston, by way of Colchester, &c. to Portland, 370 
From Kingston by way of Deposit, &c. to Portland, 376 

From Poughkeepsie, 373 

From Newburgh, 379 

From Nyack, 407 

The distance from each of the above places on the Hudson 
River to Dunkirk, is 14 miles less than from the same places to 
Portland. 

The commissioners state that a route, and indeed routes, may 
be selected from the road, without essentially varying from a 
direct course, upon which the elevation or descent will not 
exceed three degrees from a horizontal line. The soil of the 
country explored is hard and gravelly, and well adapted to the 
construction of the road, at a comparatively small expense : 
the commissioners add, that, with the exception of the coun- 
ties of Chautauque and Cataraugus, there is perhaps no portion 
of the state or nation which affords greater natural (aciUties 
for a work of this kind. They recommend the adoption of 
the M' Adams plan of road making ; the material for that pur- 
pose being found abundantly upon nearly all the routes. 

From such data as they are possessed of, the commissioners 
estimate the average expense of a road, " having a solid founda- 
tion and coated with a durable and smooth surface," at {^2000 
per mile, including bridges ; making a total expense of $760, 
000. It is their belief that the work may be completed in two 
years from the ensuiog sprina:. 



TRAVELLER. 113 

the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to the 
street. 

The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here 
centre three roads to Catskill, J^ewburgh, and JVeic-Yorfc. 
The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, 
the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and 
the third furnishes daily the shortest route to New- York. 

The Cascade. 

This beautiful and romantic scene already spoken of is 
about 3 miles from the village, and should by no means 
be left unseen. The waterfall is one of the most pic- 
turesque that can be imagined. The height and solemnity 
of the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their shadows, 
and the beauty of the sparkling spray, unite to produce 
an impression of pleasure which is rarely experienced at 
the sight of any scene, however extraordinary for beauty 
or sublimity. 

Great quantities of plaster of Paris, (sulphate of lime,) 
are transported from this neighbourhood to different parts 
of the country. Grain, lumber, &c. are also sent down 
the lake and towards the south by the Schuylkill River. 

This is near the dividing line between the waters which 
flow north and south. 

The astonishing success which has accompanied the 
enterprising spirit of the state in forming the Grand Ca- 
nal, has acted as a powerful stimulus in different parts of 
the country, and numerous works of the same kind have 
in consequence been proposed east, west, and south. 
Many of these have been found impracticable, and a large 
part of those which may hereafter be carried into execu- 
tion, relate to regions removed beyond the sphere of a 
work of so local a character as this little book. The 
canal commissioners of New- York, in 1826, reported the 
results of surveys, and estimates for the routes of 13 ca- 
nals, some of which extend into other states. 

One of these is for the Cayuga and Susquehannah Canal. 
The route is from Caynga Lake, near the mouth of Casca- 
dilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the valley of 
the Oswego to the Susquehannah. The amount of lockage 
is 760 feet ; the distance 31 miles ; and the estimated ex- 
pense 320.000 dollars. 

]. 



il4 THE NORTHERN 

The proposed canal to unite Cayuga and Seneca waters 
Tvith the Erie Canal, it has been decided, is to pass 
through Waterloo, from Geneva down the valley of Sene- 
ca River to Montezuma. 



AUBURN 

is another beautiful village, and merits the name it has 
borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is un- 
fortunately placed at some distance from Owasco Lake, 
and therefore is deprived of the picturesque character 
which it might have enjoyed. There is a Theological 
Seminary in Auburn, which, in 1825, had nearly 50 stu- 
dents. There are several handsome public buildings in 
this place, but the most important is the 

State Prison. 

This institution having been for two or three years 
managed by Mr. Lynds, on a system in some respects 
new, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice. 
" The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost 
about $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a hol- 
low square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, 
being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 
feet in height. The north wing of the building differs 
very much in its construction from any building of the 
kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of the 
greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best aids 
to prison discipline, which has been any where made. 
The workshops are built against the inside of the outer 
wall, fronting towards the yard, from which every shop is 
visible, forming a continued range of 940 feet. With 
such alterations as it may undergo, it can be made to hold 
1100 convicts. 

The new one is thus described in the newspapers. 
One building designed to contain 400 cells, covers only 
206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells, 
each containing 80 in two parallel lines, divided in the 
middle by a wall two feet thick. The walls between the 
cells are one foot thick. The cells are 7 feet long, 7 high- 



TRAVELLER, 115 

and 3^ wide, intended to receive only one convict in each. 
Each cell has a ventilator extending to the roof, and is so 
constructed in front, that the prisoners can neither con- 
verse or make signs to each other. The area around the 
cells is 10 feet wide and open to the roof, which covers 
the galleries of the several stories. Besides the moral 
benefit arising from keeping the prisoners separate, it 
unites that of economy and security. From the construc- 
tion of the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large and 12 small 
lamps, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and 
light to 555 cells ; and one centinel is sufficient to 400 
prisoners. 

The expenditures at the Auburn prison are pro- 
nounced to have been neither wasteful nor improper. The 
number of convicts in 1823, was 300 ; the gross expense 
of the prison ,$20,589, the earnings of the prisoners 
$9,807, net expense to the public $10,781, and net ex- 
pense for each convict during the year $34 78. The 
gross expense of the prison at New- York in 1824, 
was $55,792, the earnings of the prisoners $33,316, the 
number of convicts 608, the gross cost for each $91 67, 
and the net cost $22 67. A large prison has been built in 
Westchester after this plan,to supersede that of New-York. 
The correct discipline observed in this prison, (say 
the committee,) only require to be seen, to be duly appre- 
ciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their la- 
bour, and their quietness under the privations of the 
prison, prove, that the discipline is complete and effective ; 
and the main cause of the order and decorum thus ob- 
served, is, that in all matters of discipline, there is but 
one head or principal. The inspectors of this prison, 
have resigned to the principal keeper, Mr. Lynds, the 
discretionary power of directing and controlling the dis- 
cipline and punishment of the convicts, and the conduct, 
deportment, and duty of the assistant keepers. This 
measure of the inspectors is both wise and judicious, and 
has produced throughout the establishment the most happy- 
results ; and the gentleman in whom this confidence is 
placed, is in every respect worthy of it ; for he is a man 
eminently qualified for the station he occupies ; possesses 
more than common talents and firmness as a disciplina- 
rian ; appears to devote his whole mind to the duties of 



116 THE NORTHERN 

his office, and has a taste for order, neatness, and regular- 
ity, seldom surpassed." 

Minute observations on the comparative labour of a free 
person and a convict show that the latter does not accom- 
plish as much in a day as the former. In the year 1823, 
the balance against the New-York prison was $18,633; 
and that against the Auburn prison $10,780. The com- 
mittee state that the kind of work proper for a state pri- 
son should unite the following properties : that the de- 
mand should be great, the material cheap, the trade easily 
learned, a business which cannot be so conducted by ma- 
chinery as to reduce the wages too low, and a trade in 
which hard work can be enforced and made the more pro- 
fitable. 

The pardoning power ought to be exercised with great 
caution by the executive; for perhaps no circumstance 
has so much contributed to do away the terrors of panish- 
ment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our spe- 
cies in obtaining a pardon. 

Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of an- 
cient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well 
as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and 
Pompey. 

If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage 
coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, and car- 
ries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal boats, 
which pass at stated periods. 



From Auburn to Syracuse, 
By the Canal, 34 miles. 

(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles. 

Jordan Village, in Camillus township, 6 

A proposition has been made for a canal from 
Jordan to Homer on the Susquehannah, 
which has been found practicable. The dis- 
tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will require 
to be dug. 

Canton, (half-way village between Buffalo and 
Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 
from the latter,) ...,.,,, . P. 



TRAVELLER. 117 

Geddes Village, (with salt-works,) 12 miles. 

Syracuse, 2 

By the Roadf 2S miles. 

Skeneateles, 8 

Marcellus, 6 

Onondaga, 10 

Syracuse, 4 

Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well as 
of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, see 
page 70. 

Although the routes east of Syracuse, both by the canal 
and by the road, are given in other places, and although 
they may be traced on the maps, it may perhaps be con- 
venient to have them repeated in the reversed order, for 
travellers going towards Albany. {For places see Index.) 

From Syracuse to Utica, 
By the Canal, 61 miles. 

Manlius Landing, 9 miles. 

Chitteningo Creek, S 

(A curious petrified tree lies near this place a few 

steps from the canal, which was found with 

many of its branches.) 

Canastota Village and Basin, 8 

Oneida Creek, 5 

Wood Creek, 13 

Rome, 3 

Oriskany Village, 8 

Whitesborough, 3 

Utica, 4 

By the Road, 48 miles. 

Perne, 3 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 

Oneida Creek, ^1 

Vernon, ^ 

L2 



US THE NORTHERN 

Westmoreland, • • . 6 miles. 

New Hartford, 7 

Utica, 4 

For Utica, see page 64, for Hamilton College, do. 
and for Trenton Falls, 65. 

PROJECTkD Canal. — A plan has been recently formed 
for the construction of a canal from Utica down the Una- 
dilla River, to intersect the Susquehannah at some point 
near the town of Bainbridge, in the county of Chenango, 



From Utica to Schenectady, 
By the Canal, 79^ miles. 

Lock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which be- 
gins westward at Salina, and extends to this 

place, 69^ miles, without a lock,) 9 miles. 

Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer Village, 5 

Little Fails, 8 

Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet high- 
er than the canal, 712 above high water in 
Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1 

Old Mohawk Castle, 5 

Fort Plain, ?| 

Canajoharie, 4 

(Stage coach hence to Cherry Valley Tuesday 
and Friday.) 

Anthony's Nose, 5 

(This scene is represented in the plate from this side. 
The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of 
which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further down 
than it has ever been explored.) 

Schoharie Creek, 11 

Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) 5 

Flint Hill 6 

Rotterdam Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road to .\lbant, 15^ miles. Numerous coaches go 
every day. A raU road is to be constructed. 



• TRAVELLER. J 19 

Road to Ballston and Saratoga. Both these roads 
offer the shortest and most expeditious communication 
with the places to which they conduct , and if the travel- 
ler should be in pressing haste, he should avail himself of 
them. 

To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal 
boats are recommended to the Mohawk Bridge, although 
they are liable to many delays at the numerous locks 
along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. 

From Schenectady to Albany, 
By the Canal, 26 2 miles. 

Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to Al- 
bany and Ballston — an interesting scene,) . . . 4^ miles. 
Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses 

the Mohawk,) i 

The Young Engineer, a rock on the right, so call- 
ed, where the cutting is the deepest on the 

whole route, 32 feet deep, 4 

Wat Hoix Gap, 5| 

(A natural channel through which the canal is led more 
than 200 yards. The rocks are Grawacke slate. In the 
river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the Indians called 
the Evil Spirit, and i-ometimes the White Horse.) 
Lower Aqueduct, 11S8 ieet long, on which the 
canal crosses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone 

abutments and piers 2| 

The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls. 2 
(Canal boat to Cliffton Park — route to the 
Springs.) See p. 52. 

The two Locks, 9 feet each, £ 

The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over 

the Mohawk, i 

(Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sarato- 
ga, &c. is about a mile and a half, where stage coaches 
are continually passing in the visiting season. By leaving 
the boat here, or a little below, where the canal meets the 
road, a seat may frequently be found in a passing coach, 
to Waterford or the Springs ; or, some may prefer to 
take a boat on the Northern Canal, which is close at 
hand. We shall take up the land route after giving the 



120 THE NORTHERN 

few remaining objects on the way to Albany, and refer- 
ring the reader to page 42 for a description of that city.) 
The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from 

Lake Champlain, meets the Erie Canal, ^ mile. 

West Troy, 1 

(Here is a cluster of buildings about the basins where 
the Troy boats lie. The dam across the Mohawk will 
afibrd an easy communication between the canal and 
Troy, which is seen on the opposite side. A good horse 
ferry-boat plies below.) 

United States' Arsenal, 1 

The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, 

called Rensselaerwyck, 5 

Albany, 1 



TRAVELLER. 121 



ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

|For the Road and Canal between Albany and Water- 
ford, see page 50, and onward.] 

WATERFORD. 

This village is situated on the west side of the Hudson, 
across which the communication is convenient by means 
of the first bridge we have seen over this river. Lansing- 
burgh stands opposite, and is a place of considerable size, 
but wearing an aspect of gradual decay. The streets of 
Waterford are wide, regular, and handsomely built. 
Some of the private houses are remarkabie for their neat- 
ness. There are numerous rocky islands, with precipi- 
tous sides, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are 
seen at a little distance below the bridge. The boats on 
the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view of 
them, through guard locks, and are poled across, the cur- 
rent being stopped by a dam- The Cohoes Cotton Man- 
ufactory is on the south side of the river, at that place, 
and only about a quarter of a mile from the bridge. Du- 
ring the warm season of the year, this place is a great 
thoroughfare, lying on two roads to Albany, as well as in 
the way to both Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake 
George, &c. It is 21^ miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 
to Saratoga. 

The approach to the village from the south-west, by the 
eana! and the road, is uncommonly beautiful. It lies 
quite below you, with a little meadow in front, bounded 
by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses mingled 
with fine trees, and Difimond Hill rising behind, with its 
sides half cultivated, and half covered with woods. 

Jnn. Demarest's Stage House. 

A few crystals are found on Diamond Hill. 

The shortest road from Waterford to Ballston Springs 
is through J^ewtoion, 18^ miles. It passes over higher 
land than that through Mechanicville, and perhaps is not 
more sandy, but is not furnished with stage coaches. The 
usual road will be given afterwards, 



122 THE NORTHERN 

On leaving Waterford, it verges to the west, and rises 
to an elevation of considerable height, which affords a 
view towards the south over a charming piece of country : 
the high, half-cultivated range of hills, which extend some 
miles down the Hudson in the rear of Lansingburgh and 
Troy, together with a broad strip of land on each side of 
the river, including the tract on the west bank, divided by 
parts of the Champlain and Erie Canals, and the mouth 
of the Mohawk River. From two miles further on, 
Saddle Mountain appears in view in the East, with a 
single peak more in the north, and at a still greater dis- 
tance. 

Much of this road is sandy, and a great deal of wheat 
and clover is cultivated. 

Newtown, 3^ miles from Waterford. 
Half Moon, 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun- 
tains are plainly visible in clear weather. 
Second Inn in Half Moon, 4. 

About 3 miles beyond this place, the view opens, and 
shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphitheatre : 
the Greenfield Mountains in the west stretching far 
away to the north, and the Vermont Mountains in the 
east, which seem to approach them as they retire, with 
several fine and prominent peaks, particularly one which 
is about 3 miles beyond Bennington, Vt. famous for the 
defeat of Col. Baum, in the revolution. Afterwards the 
road passes near Ballston village, but without affording a 
sight of it ; and the Springs, being situated in a little val- 
ley, the first intimation vou have of your approach is the 
sight of several tall evergreens, and a small pleasure 
house, on the top of a sharp hill, in the rear of Aldridge's 
boarding house. 

From Waterford to the Springs, bt 
Mechanicville. 

This is the usual road, but offers few objects of in- 
terest. 

Mechanicville, or the Borough, 8^ miles from Wa- 
terford. Here the coaches generally stop for breakfast or 
dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, whence 
the place derives its former name. 



TRAVELLER. 123 

DuKNiNG-STREET. Here is a fittle village, at which 
the road turns off west for the Springs. About a mile 
south of it, we cross the Northern Canal. 

Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that 
is Smithes Tavern, where those will stop who wish to visit 
the Battle Ground, at Bemis's Heights. 

Although the great crowd of travellers on this road 
will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they 
will find few objects of any interest, it may be proper to in- 
troduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of Gen. 
Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, often known 
by the name of the battle of Saratoga, as we are within a 
few miles of the field. 

Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and 
quiet of the Hudson, which there spreads out over a broad 
surface, and hardly shows any appearance of n. current. 
It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler retreated at the 
approach of Gen. Burgoyne, after removing all the stores, 
driving away the cattle, and throwing all possible obsta- 
cles in his way : afterward retreating to the island at the 
mouth of the Mohawk ; and through this place. Gen. 
Gates, who soon after succeeded him in the command, 
marched up from Half Moon to take position on Bemis's 
Heights. 

The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the im- 
portance of the tract of country which lies along the 
route we have just entered upon. From Canada to the 
head of Lake Champlain there is an uninterrupted water 
communication, by which troops and every thing neces- 
sary to an army may be transported with the utmost fa- 
cility. A short l«nd carriage reaches Lake George. 
Wood Creek, at the south end of Champlain, is navigable 
in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant from 
Fort Edward, on Hudson River, whence the navigation is 
open to New-York. Here have consequently been 
many of the most important military operations which 
have ever been carried on in the United States. The 
first battle within this region, of which history gives any 
account, was fought between the French and the Five 
Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, 
when the latter first learnt the terrible effect of gunpow- 
<ler, and began to flee from the approach of civilization, 



124 THE NORTHERN 

In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent periods 
were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route 
was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the re- 
treat. The important events of the war of 1755, were 
almost confined to this region? and the revolution, and 
the last war with England, produced scenes which will be 
touched upon in their places. 

The first period to which Ave shall refer, is that of the 
Revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sa- 
ratoga, or Bemis's Heights, toward which we are fast ap- 
proaching. 

*' I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that 
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy myself 
with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, and that 
of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my coun- 
try was, under God, indebted in a prime degree for her 
independence, and all its consequent blessings. I should 
think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant of New- 
England or New -York, little to be envied, whose patriot- 
ism did not gain force upon the heights of Stillwater, or 
the plains of Saratoga. These scenes I have examined : 
the former with solemnity and awe, the latter with ardour 
and admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. 
Here I have remembered ; and here it was impossible not 
to remember, that on this very spot a controversy was de- 
cided, upon which hung the liberty and happiness of a 
nation destined one day to fill a continent ; and of its de- 
scendants, who will probably hereafter outnumber the in- 
habitants of Europe." 

BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. 

Gen. Burgoyne* was appointed Governor of Canada in 
1777, to succeed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec 

* General Burg&yne.—{From an English WoTk.)—\i is 
curious, that a man of such celebrity as a writer, a senator, 
and an officer, as the late Lieut. John Burgoyne, should be 
found among the number of those of whose youthful days no 
memorial has been preserved. Neither the time, place, nor 
circumstances of his birth are kuown. Even his parentage is 
doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not ap- 
pear, to have been a natural son of that Lord Bingly who diet 



TRAVELLER. 125 

in May, and reached Crown Point June 20th. Gen. Phil- 
lips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British right wing ; 



at an advanced age in 1774. That he had the advantage of a 
liberal education, and early intercourse with polished society, 
is sufficiently evident from his writings ', and it is probable 
that he was early devoted to the profession of arms, for on the 
10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colo- 
nel, and in the August of the ensuing year, he was appointed 
Lieut. Col. Commandant of the I6th Light Dragoons. His 
after services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and 
America, are aU well known, especially the unfortunate ter- 
mination of his military career at Saratoga, which, though it 
tarnished not his honour, cast a shade over his brow ever af- 
terward conspicuous to the physiognomical eye. He made, 
on certain occasions, no ordinary figure in Parliament. He 
moved in the first circles, and married Lady Charlotte Stan- 
ley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not 
who and what he originally was. He was the author of four 
successful dramas : — the Maid of the Oaks, the Lord of the 
Manor, Richard Coeur de Lion, and the comedy of the Heir- 
ess ; and yet the curiosity of his biographer, even in this anec- 
dote-dealing and memoir-sifting age, cannot trace his origin, 
or the scenes of his education. The tale of the Lord of the 
Manor seems, in some degree, to have been disguised in the 
modification of the character and circumstances by the inci- 
dent of his own matrimoniial connexion : for his was a clan- 
destine and unauthorized marriage, at a time when he held 
orfiy a subaltern's commission in the army ; and is said to have 
excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to such a 
degree, that he declared his resolution never to admit the of- 
fenders into his presence, though in process of time, the 
ai^er of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was efi'ected, and 
was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It is pro- 
bable, also, that the memory of his lady, who died in 1776, at 
Kensmgton Palace, during his absence in America, is embalm- 
ed by the affectionate regrets of the General, in that beauti- 
ful air in the first act of that opera : 

" Encompassed in an angel's frame. 

An angel's virtues lay ; 
Too soon did heaven assert the claim, 

And call its own away. 
My Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, 

Must never more return ! 
What now shall fill these widow'd arms ! * 

Ah, me ! my Anna's urn !" 
M 



126 THE NORTHERN 

and the outposts and the fort were successively abandon' 
ed by the Americans. The news of the evacuation of 
this pdace was a most disheartening piece of intelligence 
to the country. It had been confidently hoped that ar^ 
effectual resistance Vvould there be offered to a force which 
threatened the liberty of America ; or at all events, that 
a heroic stand wonld be made at that important post, 
which had no long been regarded as an almost impregna- 
ble fortress. 

The real strength and importance of Ticonderoga, 
proves, however, to have been fatally overrated. With an 
oversight which seems truly astonishing at the present 
day, the neighbouring mountain had been left entirely un- 
occupied, although it rises at so short a distance as com- 
pletely to command the fort. General Phillips was too 
skilful a soldier to overlook the advantages of the coun- 
try ; and the rising sun of August l6th showed his cannon 
on the summit of Mount Defiance, ready to open their 
fire on the fortress below. Gen. St. Clair saw that all 
hope of maintaining his position was entirely lost, and 
immediately commenced his retreat, pursued at no great 
distance by General Burgoyne. The news of St. Clair's 
retreat spread consternation throughout the country. A 
powerful army, containing 6000 regular troopa and a large 
body of Canadian -nilitia and Indians, had now passed 
the boundary of the country ; and having got this import- 
ant pass into their possession, found the way open before 
them to Hudson River, and the force which had been col- 
lected to oppose their progress, all scattered and flying 
with precipitation. 

The rear, under Col. Warner, was overtaken by Gen. 
Frazer, and after an action forced to fly. Gen. Burgoyne 
pursued by water, and sent Lieut. Col Hill onward, who 
met Col. Long at Battle Hill, and after suffering much in 
an engagement of two hours, was reinforced by some In° 
dians, who came up in time to save him, and to induce the 
Americans to retreat. At Hubbardton, the latter suflfered 
severely, and lost their stores at Skeenesborough, where 
Burgoyne stopped to make arrarsgements for future ope- 
rations. During his delay. Gen. Schuyler obstructed the 
channel of Wood Creek, removed every thing valuable from 
the country, and took the stores from Fort George to Fort 



TRAVELLER. 127 

Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the 
militia of the neighbouring states, both which were sup- 
plied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined him with a 
body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-Eng- 
land militia ; and he fell back to Saratoga and Stillwater. 

Battle of Bennington. 

While thcoe preparations were making for a general 
engagement, the battle of Bennington occurred, which 
must now be introduced to preserve the order of time. 
Being in want of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne bad despatch- 
ed Lt. Col. Baum with his Hessians, to seize the public 
stores at Bennington He was supported by Lieut, (^ol. 
Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark 
with the New- Hampshire troops, joined by Col. Warner, 
attacked Col. Baum -at the Wallomsack River, where they 
■were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two hours, 
forced their works, and completely defeated them. Col. 
Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded 
him mortally, and took him prisoner, and put his troops 
to flight. 

226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of 
Bennington, or rather the battle of HoosaCy as it was 
fought in that town. 700 soldier^ were taken prisoners, 
and 36 officers. 

To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. 
Gates now received the command of the American 
troops, which had been greatly reittforced ; and marching 
them from the east side of Hudson River, opp )site Half 
Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, took a position on 
Bemis's Heights, the scene of the important action soon 
to be described. 

BEMIS'S HEIGHTS. 

A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, about 
a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching off* to- 
wards the north-west, offered great advantages for the 
defence of the road. 



12S THE NORTHERN 



Gen. Gates* Camp 

was about half a mile from the road on the left, and his 
quarters were in a house which is yet standing, although 
Tery old. A bye-road leads to the place ; and the travel- 
ler, if he is able, will find himself repaid by examining 
the old entrenchments, and afterwards proceeding along 
the heights, which were occupied by the American troops. 
By making a considerable circuit by a road in some places 
rough, be may ride over the encampment and the scenes 
ef the two battles, and then come back to the river at 
Smith's little tavern, 3 miles above this place, or cross 
over to the Springs. The space between the river and 
the brow of the hill was crossed by a deep entrenchment 
defended with artillery, and almost impracticable. 

The American Lines, 

Three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a 
breast work of logs, (the hills being almost entirely a 
forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's 
right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is 
level, and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered with 
fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre, 
had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. 

Near the house once occupied by Gen Gates, and close 
by a rail fence, are seen some remains of the entrench- 
ments which defended the American camp. The view 
from many parts of this elevated ground is extensive and 
delightful, embracing the fertile shores and uplands of the 
Hudson, with many surrounding hills and distant moun- 
tains. 

It will be recollected, that the expedition under Sir 
Henry Clinton, who proceeded up Hudson River to King- 
ston, was intended to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne, 
but failed to produce the effect. 

The British Lines 

stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a 
straight line across the meadow to the Hudson River. The 



TRAVELLER. 129 

following account of their approach from Lake George is 
from Gen. Wilkinson's Memoirs. 

" General Burgoyne crossed the Hudson River the 13th 
and I4th of September, and advanced with great circum- 
spection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, where 
he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 16th was 
employed on this labour, and in reconnoitering : on the 
17th he advanced a mile or two, resumed his march on 
the 18th, and Gen Arnold was detached by Gen. Gates, 
with 1500 men, to harass him ; but after a light skirmish, 
he returned without loss or efFectiiig any thing more than 
picking up a few stragglers ; and the enemy moved for- 
ward, and encamped in two lines, about two miles from 
Gen. Gates ; his left on the river, and his right extending 
at right angles to it, across the low grounds about six 
hundred yards, to a range of steep and lofty heights oc- 
cupied by his elite, having a creek orgulley in his front, 
made by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine, form- 
ed by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel to 
the river, until within half a mile of the American camp." 

The Northern or Champlain Canal, and the coach road, 
cross the ground occupied by the American right, and 
soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. About 
half a mile south of the latter is the house of Major Buel^ 
who served as a guide to the troops, and now conducts 
travellers to the field. He is old and poor, but strong 
and active. 

The Battle Ground 

is on an elevated plain, about two miles above Gen. 
Gates' camp, and the same distance west from Smith's ta- 
vern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, but 
it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to take 
or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the battle 
ground, the road is quite romantic, along the south side of 
Cumminskill, with a steep bank on each side for part of 
the distance. Here Burgoyne marched up to extend his 
right, and turn the American left. The open ground at 
the end is the field of battle. 

The most severe fighting in the first battle, was at a 
nttle knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences. 
M2 



130 THE NORTHEUN 



Battle op Sept. 19th. 



In the morning, it was reported by Col. Colburn, who 
was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to as- 
cend the hill towards the American left. Gen. Gates sent 
Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began about 
noon. The action extended, and in three hours was ge- 
neral, and continued without interruption till dark. The 
American troops engaged amounted to 3000 ; the British 
to 3500. The following account is from Gen. Wilkinson. 

" This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of the 
generals meditated an attack at the time, and but for 
Lieut. Col. Colburn's report, it would not havt taken 
place ; Burgoyne's movement being merely to take ground 
on the heights in front of the great ravine, to give his 
several corps their proper places in line, to embrace our 
front and cover his transport, stores, provisions, and bag- 
gage, in the rear of his left ; and on our side, the de- 
fences of our camp being not half completed, and rein- 
forcements daily arriving, it was not Gen. Gates's policy 
to court an action. The misconception of the adverse 
chiefs put them on the defensive, and confined them to 
the ground they casually occupied at the beginning of the 
action, and prevented a single manoeuvre, during one of 
the longest, warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in 
America. Gen. Gates believed that his antagonist in- 
tended to attack him, and circumstances appeared lu jus- 
tify the like conclusion on the part of Burgoyne ; and as 
the thickness and depth of the intervening wood conceal- 
ed the position and movements of either army from its 
adversary, sound caution obliged the respective command- 
ers to guard every assailable point ; thus the flower of the 
British army, the grenadiers and light infantry, one thou- 
sand five hundred strong, were posted on an eminence to 
cover its right, and stood by their arms, inactive specta- 
tors of tuc conflict, until near sunset ; while Gen. Gates 
was obliged to keep his right wing on post, to prevent the 
enemy from forcing that flank, by the plain bordering on 
the river. Had either of the generals been properly ap- 
prized of the dispositions of his antagonist, a serious blow 
might have been struck on our left, or the enemy*s right ; 



TRAVELLER. 131 

but although nothing is more common, it is as illiberal as 
it is unjust, to determine the merits of military operations 
by events exclusively. It was not without experience that 
the Romans erected temples to Fortune. Later times 
might afford motives for edifices, in which Genius or 
Wisdom would have no votaries. 

" The theatre of action was such, that although the 
combatants changed ground a dozen times in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where it 
began. This may be explained in a few words. The 
British line was formed on an eminence in a thin pine 
wood, having before it Freeman's farm, an oblong field, 
stretching from its centre towards its right, the ground in 
front sloping gently down to the verge of this field, which 
was bordered on the opposite side by a close wood. The 
sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, between the 
eminence occupied by the enemy, and the wood just de- 
scribed. The fire of our marksmen from this wood was 
too deadly to be withstood by the enemy in line, and 
when they gave way and broke, our men rushing from 
their covert, pursued them to the eminence, where, having 
their flanks protected, they rallied, and charging in turn, 
drove us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful fire 
would again force them to fall back ; and in this manner 
did the battle fluctuate, like the waves of a stormy sea, 
with alternate advantage for four hours, without one mo- 
ment's intermission. The British artillery fell into our 
possession at every charge, but we could neither turn the 
pieces upon the enemy, nor bring them off"; the wood 
prevented the last, and the want of a match the first, as 
the linstock was invariably carried off", and the rapidity 
of the transitions did not allow us time to provide one. 
The slaughter of this brigade of artillerists was remark- 
able, the captain and thirty-six men being killed or wound- 
ed out of forty-eight. It was truly a gallant conflict, in 
which death by familiarity lost his terrors, and certainly 
a drawn battle, as night alone terminated it ; the British 
army keeping its ground in rear of the field of action, 
and our corps, when they could no loitger distinguish ob- 
jects, retiring to their own camp." 



132 THE NORTHERiN 



The interval between the two Battles. 

This time, from Sept. 19th till Oct. 7th, was devoted to 
strengthening their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to 
collecting also large reinforcements of militia. Gen. Bur- 
goyne is said to have planned an attack on the 20th and 
2lst of September, but fortunately delayed until the Ame- 
ricans were in the best situation to oppose him. Attacks 
on the British pickets took place almost every night, and 
they were continually harassed. 

Battle of October S. 

Gen. Wilkinson gives the following description of this 
battle. 

" On the afternoon of Oct. 7th, the advanced guard of 
the centre beat to arms ; the alarm was repeated through- 
out the line, and the troops repaired to their alarm posts. 
1 was at head quarters when this happened, and with the 
approbation of the General, mounted my horse to inquire 
the cause ; but on reaching the guard where the beat 
commenced, I could obtain no other satisfaction, but that 
some person had reported the enemy to be advancing 
against our left. I proceeded over open ground, and as- 
cending a gentle acclivity in front of the guard, I per- 
ceived about half a mile from the line of our encamp- 
ment, several columns of the enemy, 60 or 70 rods from 
me, entering a wheat field which had not been cut, and 
was separated from me by a small rivulet ; and without 
my glass I could distinctly mark their every movement. 
After entering the field, they displayed, formed the line, 
and set down in double ranks with their arms between 
their legs. Foragers then proceeded to cut the wheat or 
standing straw, and I soon after observed several ofl[icers, 
mounted on the top of a cabin, from whence with their 
glasses they were endeavouring to reconnoitre our left, 
which was concealed from their view by intervening 
woods. 

" Having satisfied myself, after fifteen minutes' atten- 
tive observation, that no attack was meditated, I returned 
and reported to the General, who asked me what appear- 



TRAVELLER. 133 

ed to be the intention of the enemy. ' They are foraging 
and endeavouring to reconnoitre your left ; and I think, 
Sir, they off«r you battle.' * What is the nature of the 
ground, and what your opinion V * Their front is open, 
and their flank:$ rest on the woods, under cover of which 
they may be attacked ; their right is skirted by a lofty 
height. I would indulge them.' * Well, then, order on 
Morgan to begin the game.' I waited on the Colonel, 
whose corps was formed in front of our centre, and deli- 
vered the order. He knew the ground, and inquired the 
position of the enemy • they were formed across a new 
cultivated field, their grenadiers with several field pieces 
on the left, bordering on a wood and a small ravine form> 
ed by the rivulet before alluded to; their light infantry 
on the right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the 
hill before mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; their 
centre composed of British and German battalions. Col. 
Morgan, with his usual sagacity, proposed to make a cir- 
cuit with his corps by our left, and under cover of the 
wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, and 
from thence commence his attack, so soon as our fire 
should be opened against their left ; the plan was the best 
which could be devised, and no doubt contributed essen- 
tially to the proujpt and decisive victory we gained. 

** This proposition was approved by the General, and 
it was concerted that time should be allowed the Colonel 
to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on the 
enemy's right before the attack should be made on their 
left : Poor's brigade was ordered for this service, and the 
attack was commenced in due season on the flank and 
front of the British grenadiers, by the New- Hampshire 
and New- York troops. True to his purpose, Morgan, at 
this critical moment, poured down like a torrent from the 
hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and 
flank. Dearborn, at the moment when the enemy's light 
infantry were attempting to change front, pressed forward 
with ardour and delivered a close fire ; then leaped the 
fence, shouted, charged, and gallantly forced them to re- 
tire in disorder ; yet headed by that intrepid soldier the 
Earl of Balcarras, they were immediately rallied and 
re-formed behind a fence in rear of their first position ; 
but being now attacked with great audacity in front and 



134 THE NORTHERN 

flanks by superior numbers, resistance became vain, and 
the whole line, commanded by Burgoyne in person, gave 
way and made a precipitate and disorderly retreat lo his 
camp, leaving two 12, and six 6 pounders on the field, 
with the loss of more than 400 officers and men killed, 
wounded, and captured, and among them the flower of 
his officers, viz. Brigadier Gen. Frazer,* Major Ackland, 
commanding the grenadiers. Sir Francis Clark, his first 
aid-de-camp, Major Williams, commanding officer of the 
artillery. Captain Money, deputy quarter-master general, 
and many others. After delivering the orders to General 
Poor, and directing him to the point of attack, I was pe- 
remptorily commanded to repair to the rear, and order up 
Ten Broeck's brigade of York militia, 3000 strong. I 
performed this service, and regained the field of battle at 
the moment the enemy had turned their back, fifty-two 
minutes after the first shot was fired. The ground which 
had been occupied by the British grenadiers presented a 
scene of complicated horror and exultation. In the square 
space of twelve or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in 
the agonies of death, and three officers propt up against 
stumps of trees, two of them mortally wounded, bleed- 
ing, and almost speechless. What a spectacle for one 
whose bosom glowed with philanthropy, and how vehe- 
ment the impulse which excites men of sensibility to seek 
such scenes of barbarism ! 

" I found the courageous Colonel Cilley a-straddle on a 
brass twelve-pounder and exulting in the capture — whilst 
a surgeon, a man of great worth, who was dressing one of 
the officers, raising his blood-besmeared hands in a frenzy 
of patriotism, exclaimed, Wilkinson, I have dipped my 
hands in British blood. He received a sharp rebuke for 
his brutality, and with the troops I pursued the hard- 
pressed flying enemy, passing over killed and wounded 
until I heard one exclaim, ' protect me Sir, against this 
boy.' Turning my eyes, it was my fortune to arrest the 



* General Frazer was shot in the meadow, near the fence 
by the road side, just south of the blacksmith's shop. The 
spot is marked by the third tree in a row of poplars. 



TRAVELLER. 135 

purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years old, in the act 
of taking aim at a wounded officer who lay in the angle 
of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, * I 
had the honour to command the grenadiers ;' of course, I 
knew him to be Major Ackland, who had been brought from 
the field to this place, on the back of a captain Shrimpton 
of his own corps, under a heavy fire, and was here depo- 
sited, to save the lives of both. I dismounted, took him 
by the hand, and expressed hopes that he was not badly 
wounded; 'not badly,' replied this gallant officer and 
accomplished gentleman, 'but very inconveniently, I am 
shot through both legs ; will you, Sir, have the goodness 
to have me conveyed to your camp ?' I directed my ser- 
vant to alight, and we lifted Ackland into his seat, and or- 
dered him to be conducted to head quarters. I then 
proceeded to the scene of renewed action, which embraced 
Burgoyne's right flank defence, and extending to his left, 
crossed a hollow covered with wood, about 40 rods to the 
entrenchment of the light infantry. The roar ofcannonand 
small arms at this juncture was sublime, between the 
enemy, behind their works, and our troops entirely ex- 
posed, or partially sheltered by trees, stumps, or hollows, 
at various distances, not exceeding 120 yards. This right 
flank defence of the enemy, occupied by the German 
corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast-work of rails 
piled horizontally between perpendicular pickets, driven 
into the earth, en potence to the rest of his line, and ex- 
tended about 250 yards across an open field, and was co- 
vered on the right by a battery of two guns. The interval 
from the left to the British light infantry was committed 
to the defence of the provincialists, who occupied a couple 
of log cabins. The Germans were encamped immediately 
behind the rail breast-work, and the ground in front of it 
declined in a very gentle slope for about 120 yards, when 
it sunk abruptly ; our troops had formed a line under this 
declivity, and covered breast high, were warmly engaged 
with the Germans. From this position, about sunset, I 
perceived Brigadier General Learned advancing towards 
the enemy with his brigade, in open column, 1 think with 
Colonel M. Jackson's regiment in front, as 1 saw Lieu- 
tenant Colonel Brooks, who commanded it, near the Ge- 
neral when I rode up to him. On saluting this brave old 



136 THE NORTHERN 

soldier, he inquired, * where can I put in with most advan- 
tage V I had particularly examined the ground between 
the left of the Germans and the light infantry, occupied 
by the provincialists, from whence I had observed a slack 
fire ; I therefore recommended to General Learned to in- 
cline to his right, and attack at that point ; he did so 
with great gallantry j the provincialists abandoned their 
position and fled ; the German flank was b\ this means 
uncovered ; they were assaulted vigorously, overturned in 
five minutes, and retreated in disorder, leaving their gal- 
lant commander, Lieutenant-Colonel Breyman, dead on 
the field. By dislodging this corps, the whole British en- 
campment was laid open to us ; but the extreme darkness 
of the night, the fatigue of the men, and the disorder in- 
cident to undisciplined troops after so desultory an action, 
put it out of our power to improve ihe advantage ; and in 
the course of the night General Burgoyne broke up his 
camp, and retired to his original position, which he had 
fortified, behind the great ravine." 

The British lost in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
about 600 ; the Americans 319. The German officers said 
they had never before met so vigorous and terrible a fire. 
Several American officers who walked over the field after 
midnight, found no enemy to interrupt them. 

General Frazer's Grave 

is on the hill a little west of Smith's. At his own request, 
he was buried in the great redoubt, the remains of which 
are plainly visible. 

Oct. 8th, frequent attacks were made on Gen. Balcarras- 
corps, and the British expected a general action. 

General Burgotne's Retreat 

commenced that night towards Lake George ; but he was 
pursued and intercepted so promptly, that he was obliged 
to stop and take a position at Scbuylersville, near which 
he surrendered ten days after the battle. The place will 
be particularly noticed on the " Excursion to Saratoga 
Lake." 
After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two 



TRAVELLER. 137 

most important battles, the traveller will be greatly in- 
terested in learning that Smith's inn, to which he has be- 
fore been directed, was at that period the 

QtTARTliRS OF GeN. BuRGOYNE. 

Tbe house now stands by the road side, but the place 
where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about 
200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen, 
in a field near an apple tree, a little north of the road that 
crosses the canal. Willard's Mountain is an eminence 
a few miles off, on the opposite side of the river. During 
tbe last battle, the Americans had a few cannon on the 
rising ground above the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile 
above Smith's, and thence proceeded the shot of which 
the Baroness Reidesel speaks in the succeeding note. 
Several ladies of distinction were its inmates at the time 
when the British troops were here, being the wives of 
some of his principal officers. Among these were the 
Baroness Reidesel,* with her children, wife of General 



Extract of a letter from the Baroness, afterwards pub- 
lished in Germany. 

* "But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th of Oct. our 
misfortunes began. I was at breakfast with my husband, and 
heard that something was intended. On the same day I ex- 
pected Generals Burgoyne, Phillips and Frazer to dine with 
us. I saw a great movement among the troops ; my husband 
told me, it was merely a reconnoissance, which gave me no 
concern as it often happened. I walked out of the house and 
met several Indians in their war dresses, with guns in their 
hands. When I asked them where they were going, they cried 
out War ! War ! (meaning they were going to battle.) This 
filled me with apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I 
heard reports oi cannon and musketry, which ^rew louder by 
degrees, till at last the noise became excessive. About 4 
o'clock in the afternoon instead of the guests whom I expected. 
General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally wounded. 
The table which was already set, was instantly removed, and 
a bed placed in its stead for the wounded General. I sat 
trembhng in a corner ; the noise grew louder and the alarm 
increased ; the thought that my husband might perhaps be 
N 



133 THE NORTHERN 

Reidesel, Lady Harriet Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, 
commander of the British Grenadiers. The former pub- 
lished an account of what she saw during this trying and 



brought in, woimded in the same way, was terrible to me, and 
distressed me exceedingly. General Frazer said to the sur- 
geon, ^Hell me if my wound is mortal, do not flatter me. ^^ 
The ball had passed through his body, and unhappily for the 
General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which the 
stomach was distended, and the ball, as the surgeon said, had 
passed throught it. I heard him often exclaim with a sigh, 
" Oh fatal ambition ! Poor General Burgoyne ! Oh 
MY POOR wife!" He was asked if he had any request 
to make, to which he replied, that "If General Bcjrgoyne 

WOULD PERMIT IT, HE SHOULD LIKE TO BE BURIED AT SIX 
o'clock IN THE EVENING ON THE TOP OF A MOUNTAIN, IN 
A REDOUBT WHICH HAD BEEN BUILT THERE." I did UOt 

know which way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick. . 
Towards evening I saw my husband coming, then I forgot all 
my sorrows and thanked God that he was spared to me. He 
ate in great haste with me and his aid-de-camp behind the 
house. We had been told that we had the advantage of the 
enemy, but the sorrowful faces I beheld told a different tale, 
and before my husband went away he took me one side, and 
said every thing was going very bad, that I must keep myself 
in readiness to leave the place, but not to mention it to any 
one. I made the pretence that I would move the next morning 
into my new house, and had every thing packed up ready. 

** Lady H. Ackland had a tent not fir from our house ; in 
tliis she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the camp. 
All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her husband was 
mortally wounded and taken prisoner; on hearing this she 
became very miserable, we comforted her by telling her, that 
the wound was only slight, and at the same time advised her 
to go over to her husband, to do which she woidd certainly 
obtain permission, and then she could attend him herself ; she 
was a charming woman and very fond of him. I spent much 
of the night in comforting her, and then went again to my 
children whom I had put to bed. I could not go to sleep, as I 
had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen in 
my room, and I was sadly afraid my children would awake and 
by their crying disturb the dying man in his last moments, who 
often addressed me and apologized ^^for the trouble he gave 
we," About 3 o'clock in the mnrnino- 1 was told he coidd ri' 



TRAVELLER. 139 

dangerous contest, after her return to Europe. Tjhe 
house was converted into an hospital during the second 
battle, and Gen. Frazer died on the 8th of October in what 
is now the bar room. His grave is on the hill. 



hold out much longer ; I had desired to be informed of the 
near approach of this sad crisis, and I then wrapped up my 
children in their clothes, and went with them into the room 
below. About 8 o'clock in the morning he died. After he 
was laid out and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, we came 
again into the room, and had this sorrowful sight before us the 
whole day, and to add to this melancholy scene, almost every 
moment some oflBcer of my acquaintance was brought in 
wounded. The cannonade commenced again ; a retreat was 
spoken of, but not the smallest motion was made towards it. 
About 4 o'clock in the afternoon I saw the house which had 
just been built for me in flames, and the enemy was now not far 
off. We knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse the 
last request of General Frazer, though by bis acceding to it, 
an unnecessary delay was occasioned, by which the inconve- 
nience of the army was much increased. At 6 o'clock the 
corpse was brought out, and we saw all the Generals attend it 
to the moimtain ; the chaplain, Mr. Brundell, performed the 
funeral service, rendered unusually solemn and awful, from its 
being accompanied by constant peals from the enemy's artil- 
lery. Many cannon balls flew close by me, but I had my eyes 
directed towards the moimtain, where my husband was stand- 
ing, amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course, I could not 
think of my own danger. 

" General Gates afterwards said, that if he had known 
it had been a funeral he would not have permitted it to be 
fired on. 

" Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp after the 
action, to take care of her husband before the sm-render, and 
the Baroness Reidesel afterwards. They were both received 
with the greatest kindness and delicacy.'* 



140 THE NORTHERN 



BALLSTON SPRINGS. 

This village is situated in a little valley, surrounded by 
hills, with much the aspect of having once been the bed 
of a small lake. The high ground enclosing it, gives an 
air of seclusion to the place, at the same time that it fur- 
nishes a variety of pleasant scenery. The Kayderos- 
seros brook flows through the valley, in some places over- 
hung by the groves of forest trees that cover the hills. 

The Sms Souci Hotel is the principal house in the place, 
and is at least equal in plan and in arrangement to any 
similar establishment in the country. Aldridge's is a 
highly respectable house, in a very pleasant situation. 
Mrs. Mc Masters' ; the Village Hotel, &c. are in the 
neighbourhood. 

SANS SOUCI 

is a building of great size, occupying the corner where 
the village street meets the road to Saratoga. It has a 
fine piazza opening upon the former, and presents a front 
of 156 feet long with awing extending back from each 
end 150 feet, all of them three stories high, and contain- 
ing in all lodging for nearly 150 persons. The dining 
room can easily accommodate that number, and the public 
parlour is large, airy and pleasant, extending to the ladies' 
private parlour. There is a beautiful meadow in the rear 
of the house which is to be made free of some encum- 
brances, and to be planted with trees, laid out in walks, 
&c. for the convenience of visiters. 

Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the scene 
of gayety which this house presents in the visiting season. 
When crowded with people. Sans Souci is usually the 
scene of several balls in the week, to say nothing of the 
fishing parties, riding parties, &c. &c. which fill up the 
day. The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood is suf- 
ficient to attract many of those who resort to this place 
of health and pleasure ; and walking and riding will be 
found much more agreeable here than at Saratoga. Some 
of the particular routes an^ objects will be designated 
hereafter- 



TRAVELLER. Hi 

Mr. Aldridge's House 

was the first respectable one ever opened in this place for 
the accommodation of visiters. Its size being sufficient 
only for a more limited number of persons, a visiter of 
quiet habits or in ill health, will here find himself retired 
from the noise and bustle which enter so largely into the 
amusements of the more gay and robust. The house has 
a pleasant garden, with a iong flight of steps leading to a 
commanding elevation which overlooks the village below. 

Mr. Corey-s House 

is situated at a little distance south of Aldridge's and has 
a pleasant appearance, having a handsome green in front 
and a piazza. It was however closed in 1825. 

The La Fayette Springj 

which yields a fine and sparkling chalybeate water, was 
discovered early in the summer of 1825. It is supposed by 
many to be in fact identical with " the Old Spring,'' 
which is soon to be spoken of, being distant from 
it only about thirty feet. It is very cold and highly 
charged with oxyde of iroi) and carbonic acid gas, which 
have given it a high reputation. 

The Old Spring, 

which is in the middle of the street opposite Aldridge's, 
was the first discovered in all this part of the country. 
It is said that the inhabitants were induced to trust to its 
peculiar virtues by the example of the deer of the forest, 
which had resorted to it in such numbers as to form beaten 
paths from every direction to the spot. In 1792 there 
was not a house within two or three miles of this spot. 

The Old Spring has lost much of its original excellence, 
which appears to be in a good degree transferred to the 
La Fayette. 

The Saline, or United States Spring 

is near the bathing house connected with the Sans Souci. 
It was discovered four or five years since, and contains a 

N 2 



142 THE NORTHERN 

large quantity of oxyde of iron, together with glauber 
and other salts, so that it is at once a strong saline and 
chalybeate water. The iron is in such quantities as to 
be perceptible to the taste. 

The neighbouring country was almost a perfect wil- 
derness at the close of the revolutionary war ; for the 
natural military route between Canada and the U. States 
lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indians were so 
near on the western side, and were so frequently passing 
over it on their war parties, that few white men were 
willing to encounter the dangers and risks to which such 
a residence must necessarily be exposed. 

For some years the only place where visiters could find 
shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spring, 
which was for some time the only object of notice. The 
springs near the Sans Souci were subsequently discover- 
ed, and have enjoyed their portion of celebrity. In 1817 
four springs of different qualities were found near the 
great manufactory built by Mr. Low. Their history is 
worthy of attention, as it shows the singular changes 
which sometimes take place in this mysterious soil, 
where springs occasionally appear, change places and dis- 
appear, without any apparent cause. Some surprising 
power is constantly at work somewhere beneath the sur- 
face, which the wisest students of nature are unable to 
explain or to comprehend. The branch of the Kayde- 
rosseros brook which flows through the Spa Village, was 
raised to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 
1817, which threw its current into a new channel further 
towards the east than its former one. The old bed was 
thus left dry ; and four springs were found rising side by 
side, all of them within a space of about twenty feet 
square, and all of qualities entirely different. One re- 
sembled in some degree the old spring, but contained a 
surplus of carbonic acid gas and sparkled like champaign ; 
the next contained much glauber salts, and was some- 
what like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; the third was 
brine, like sea water ; and the fourth perfectly fresh. A 
platform was raised that covered them all, and wooden 
tubes were sunk into the two first, which were only two 
or three feet apart ; and for three or four seasons they at- 
tracted all visiters, so much so that the Old Spring was 



TllAVELLER. 143 

deserted. The first spring was peculiarly fine, and the 
favourite of all ; but it at length began to lose its flavour, 
gas, and virtue ; and the four springs now flow off" together 
in a stream of almost pure water. 

Qualities of the Ballston Waters. 

New-Haten, April 27, 1324. 
Dear Sir, 
You request my opinion of the mineral waters at Ball- 
ston Spa. They are in my view very valuable, and I cau 
discern no serious reason why public opinion should bo 
less favourable to them now than formerly. I became 
acquainted with the Old Spring, near Mr. Aldridge's, in 
consequence of using its waters uninterruptedly at the 
fountain head, for amonih, in the Autumn of 1797; and 
a residence of the same length of lime, at Ballston Spa, 
during the last summer, gave me an ojiportunity of re- 
newing my acquaintance with the Old Spring, and of be- 
coming familiar also »vith those more recently discovered 
fountains, which have been opened and brought into use. 
The Old Spring, appears substantially, as it did in 1797, 
and is, I suppose, surpassed by no mineral fountain in 
the world as a brisk, copious, slightly saline, and strong 
chalybeate. The principal spring'*' under tbs bath house, 
while it is also a brisk chalybeate, is beside in ii high de- 
gree saline, and is probably unrivalled as a natural com- 
bination of this class. Its cathartic properties are strong, 
and its ttjnic powers equally so. There is no spring, 
either at Ballston Spa or Saratoga Springs, which 1 should 
prefer to this. I speak of my own experience — for some 
persons, a brisk cathartic water, scarcely chalybeate at all, 
like the Congress Spring, may be preferable. The Con- 
gress Spring is also, so far as I am informed, without a 
rival, in its class — but it is scarcely proper to call it a 



* Mr. Silliman has analyzed the water of this spring, which 
is now called the United States, and fomid half a gallon of it 
to contain 270 grains of salt ; iron, lime, and magnesia, 100. It 
is at once highly saline and chalybeate, \vhich is very remark- 
able. 



144 THE NORTHERN 

chalybeate, as it is so only in a slight degree. There is 
no reason why the establishments at Saratoga Springs and 
at Ballston Spa should regard each other with an un- 
iriendly feeling. The accommodations of both are too 
good to need praise from me, and the bounty of the 
Creator has poured forth these fountains of health, in 
the great valley (for I regard the springs of Ballston Spa 
and Saratoga as parts of one great system) with a pro- 
fuse benevolence, unknown in any other country. Nothing 
can exceed the variety, copiousness, and excellence of the 
springs at Saratoga — but those of Ballston Spa are in no 
respect except that of number and variety inferior to them, 
and I trust the day is not distant, when a truly liberal 
feeling, will in both villages, lead to mutual commenda- 
tion, and an amicable rivalry, in efforts to please and to 
accommodate their guests ; and the solutary effect will 
then, I am persuaded, soon be visible, in the increased 
number of visiters, from every part of this great conti- 
nent ; a number more than sufficient to fill both villages, 
and fully to reward the spirited and liberal proprietors of 
their respective public establishments. 

With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places 
I remain 

Your Obt. Servt. 

B. SILLIMAN. 



Low^s Manufactory is four stories high, about 170 feet 
long, and 40 feet wide, with a large room in each of the 
three upper stories about 115 feet long. It is not used. 

There is a Reading Room and Circulating Library kept 
at the store of Mr. Corastock, and a book is also kept, in 
which the names of visiters arriving at the principal 
houses are daily entered, for the information of others. 

The Lov^^s Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, which 
overhangs the Kayderosseros, and overlooks a romantic 
and secluded little valley, at the distance of about half a 
mile from the springs. The road leads up the hill beyond 
Aldridge's, and through a dark pine grove. A half trod- 
den path turns off" at the right and conducts to the preci- 
pice, which is a pleasant retreat in the heat of the day, 
affording a fine shade and frequently a pleasant breeze, as 



TRAVELLER. 143 

well as the view of a wild scene below, to which a steep 
descent conducts on the left hand. 

Ballston Lake 

is a pretty little sheet of water about 4 miles distant ; but 
as Saratoga Lakr is much larger, nmore accessible and 
more beautiful, and is supplied with accommodations for 
fishing parties, it is more worthy of attention, and to the 
description of it we refer the stranger. The distance 
is 4^ miles, and 5^ from Saratoga Spiings. It is only six 
miles from Ballston Spa to the south end, where is the 
finest view of it, on the way to the battle ground. The 
road is rather stony and rough, but perfectly safe, and has 
some pleasant spots, and several extensive views. The 
Green Mountains in Vermont present a very noble appear- 
ance, and several ridges of hills between, afterwards suc- 
ceeded by the swelling and fertile shores of the Hudson, 
form a various and delightful landscape. 

Mr. Sti'mpson''s Farm in Galloway, is 11 miles west from 
Ballston Springs. 

He is an excellent farmer an<l his house a very good 
inn. Take the road of the sand hill by Aldridge's, passing 
near the Lover's Leap, and following the Johnstown road. 
His house is on a high ridge of land ; the farm contains 
800 acres, 360 of which are cultivated, principally for 
grain and grass. He raises 40 or 50 bushels of wheat to 
an acre by late ploughing, about 3 inches. He soaks his 
seed wheat in brine and rolls it in lime, to preserve it 
from insects. Other seeds he rolls in plaster. He has 
raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. His corn is 
planted two feet apart one way, and two and a half the 
other. 

His fences are of stone and wood — a low stone wall 
with timber in it, to secure the parts above ground. A 
fence of two rails is thus made above ; the rails being nf 
plank, about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, he 
has on his farm what would measure 15 miles. 

The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and 
the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this part 
of the country, that it is the resort of many visiters from 
different quarters, who frequently spend days or weeks 



146 THE NORTHERN 

there. The charges are more moderate than at the 
Springs. 

The view is commanding and the air fine. From an 
eminence west of the house, no less than 13 counties may 
be discovered. The church is half a mile distant, and 
the road to Ballston pretty good. 

Remarks on the Routes. 

At the Springs many a traveller has to arrange his fu- 
ture journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and as Ball- 
ston and Saratoga are pre-eminently places of leisure, 
some general hints concerning the diffefent routes will 
not be misplaced. 

NORTH. The roads to Lake George, Lake Champlain, 
Montreal, &c. belonging more properly to Saratoga, will 
be given under that head. 

EAST. The traveller is referred to the same place and 
Albany also for the roads leading into New England. 

SOUTH. Two or three steam boats leave Albany for 
New-York every day, and as many arrive from that city. 
Several others will also ply every week between New- 
York and Troy. They touch at numerous points on 
the river, so that passengers can land where they please. 
The newspapers will furnish all necessary information 
concerning their periods of departure and return ; and 
coaches from the Springs so regulate their time as to ac- 
commodate the traveller. The larger boats are generally 
preferred, on account of the fine air and prospect enjoyed 
from their upper decks ; but they are sometimes more 
crowded than the small ones, and when the water in the 
river is low, some of them can come up no higher than 
the Overslaugh, 4 miles below Albany, to which place 
passengers are taken down in the little steam boat Fire- 
Fly, &c. The safety barges are once more recommended, 
for their superior safety and convenience. 

There are three roads to Albany : by Waterford, by 
Schenectady, and by Cliffton Park, in coaches and canal 
boats. 

The last will be the pleasantest, if well attended 
to. From Waterford you may take either side of the 
river. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the 
remarkable "nine locks" on the Erie Canal, the junction 



TRAVELLER. 147 

of the two Canals, and route of the former quite to Al- 
bany. On the east side the road passes over a bridi^e to 
Lansinburgh, through Troy, and re-crosses by a good and 
safe ferry. 

For notices of these places and objects, see pages 51, 
and 55, 56. 

The second road, which goes through Schenectady, is 
rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an opportunity 
of travelling 27 miles on ihe Erie Canal, along the course 
of the Mohawk, and a sight of the various objects men- 
tioned in page 119, &c. A considerable part of two days 
will be necessary on this route from Ballston to Albany, 
but a single one will be sufficient if he takes the stage 
coaches to ClifFton Park, on the Erie Canal, and most 
of these objects will be seen. 

WEST. The grand western route, through Utica, and 
leading to Niagara and Lake Erie, has been already 
traceifl out with sufficient particularity for the use of most 
travellers ; and to that those readers are referred, who 
intend to pursue that course after leaving the Springs. 
The nearest point on this route is Schenectady, whence 
the traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the 
stage road or in the canal boats. See page 58. 

The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, and 
quite uninteresting. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS 

are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a public coach 
generally passes between these two places every day ; 
beside a number of other carriages on their way from 
Albany, &c. What is called the regular price for these 
7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The old road is level and 
sandy, and if the weather be dry the traveller will pro- 
bably be incommoded with dust, unless he rides in the 
morning or evening when the ground is moist with 
the dew. The new road passes over higher ground, 
and is pleasanter and harder, although somewhat 
longer. You may pass out by the court house, east, of 
turn to the right just below Sans Souci. You enjoy some 
fine views of the distant hills and mountains ; and the 



113 THE NORTHERN 

soil and crops are generally much Letter than on the oM 
road. 

The village is quite concealed until you are within a 
short distance, and then the clusters of Trail board build- 
ings which spring up anaong the stumps of trees lately 
felled in the skirts of the pine forest, show what an un- 
natural surplus of population the place contains during the 
visiting season, which is principally in July and August. It 
may not be unseasonable to mention here the principal 
hou5es in the order in which they were supposed to stand 
on the list of gentility in 1825: the Congress Hall $10 per 
week, United States Hotel, do. the Pavilion do. and Union 
Hall $8. 

On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into 
the village, the street lies in full view, with all the princi- 
pal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories 
high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to 
the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar 
columns ; over which are seen the brick walls of the 
United States Hotel ; and still beyond, and on the other 
side, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the village 
is represented in the accompanying print, which was taken 
on the spot the last season. 

On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, 
the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short 
distance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of 
people. 

Congress Hall 

has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the most 
fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its fine and 
imposing appearance, its contiguity to the Spring, the 
number and size of its apartments, and the style in which 
it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long on the street, 
with two wings of 60 feet running back, and contains 
lodging for ISO. The first floor in front is divided in the 
following manner : a dining room in the middle, capable 
of containing tables for all the house can accommodate ; 
next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long, and south the 
ladies' private parlour. The price of board is $10 per 
week. 



TRAVELLER. 141) 



The United States Hall 

is a fine building of brick, three stories high, with a colo- 
nade rising only to the second story. This house is ex» 
cellently well kept, and is more substantially built than 
any of the rest, which are of a light construction, fit only 
for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public rooms, 
in which particular Congress Hall so much excels. It is 
also raised so high from the street as not to be convenient 
of access, although many prefer it on that very account. 

The Pavilion. 

This is a very good house for one of its size, and will 
be found free from much of the bustle of the larger ones, 
while the resort of company is no less respectable and gen- 
teel. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock 
water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps 
from it in the rear. There is a fine bathing house connect- 
ed with it, and a shady little wood not far beyond by the 
road side, on the way to the Round Rock Spring. 

Union Hall 

is the resort of those who wish to have the most conve* 
nient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to 
participate more moderately in the amusements of the 
place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gaiety and mirth, 
produced by the continued round of balls and dances in 
the other principal houses. 

The Congress Springy 

which, as was before remarked, is the gi'eat source from 
which this place derives its celebrity and its show of wealth 
and importance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He 
built the first house near it for the accommodation of in- 
valids, which was subsequently enlarged to the present 
Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Round Rock 
Spring, of which more particular notice will soon be taken, 
was known before, having been discovered to Sir William 
Tobnson by an Indian, while the coimtry was yet a vfih 
O 



150 THE NORTHERN 

derness. The Congress Spring was long concealed by the 
neighbouring brook which formerly passed over it; but its 
valuable qualities being discovered, it has attracted uni- 
versal attention, and the benefits of its waters are annually 
dispensed to thousands. 

Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis : half a gal- 
lon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and magnesia, 
with a slight trace of iron. 

The Flat Rock Spring 

is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of the 
Pavilion. In composition and qualities it bears a resem- 
blance to the La Fayette Spring at, Ballston, but is far infe- 
rior. It is a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind 
in the place. It is situated on the margin of the little 
valley in which all the springs are found, and the Pavilion 
will prove a pleasant house to invalids and others who wish 
to drink of it frequently. 

The Round Rock Spring. 

This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural cu- 
riosity : the water, although for a time much celebrated, 
and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga could 
boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of 
the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate 
with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a 
small lime-stone rock of a conical form, with a circular 
hole in the middle, about five inches in diameter. The 
rock is about five feet through at the base, and has evi- 
dently been produced by the layers of lime deposited by 
the water. Many of the rocks in the neighbourhood con- 
tain a large quantity of lime, where the carbonic acid of 
the water probably obtains the supply which it afterwards 
deposites here. The gradual accretion which is thus con- 
stantly going on is very apparent even to a hasty observer. 
That part of the rock which is most exposed to the drip- 
ping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the 
top, is always smooth and even, while other parts are 
rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters are some- 
times found half obliterated by a recent coat of calcareous 



TRAVELLER. 151 

matter formed in this manner. A horizontal rock, appa- 
rently of similar formation, extends for a considerable 
distance under the surface of the ground ; and indeed it 
might be supposed to reach to some of the springs which 
rise in different places along the valley above. 

It is said that the Round Rock was discovered to Sir 
William Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was 
unknown to white men. The water, according to com- 
mon report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for 
many years found its way below, through a crevice pro- 
duced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the 
rock. 

SARATOGA LAKE. 

An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of 
the most agreeable that can be made in any direction. It 
is .5^ miles distant, in a south-easterly direction, and is 
frequently visited by parties from Ballston, as well as Sa- 
ratoga Springs, as a good house has been lately erected on 
the shore, and furnished with every accommodation, by 
Mr. Riley. Sailing and fishing on the lake form the 
amusements of the excursion. 

The first part of the way is by the eastern road to 
Ballston Spa ; and after turning to the left and riding to 
within half a mile of the lake, a fine view opens from the 
top of a hill. The eye embraces a part of this fine sheet 
of water, with its sloping and verdant shores, generally 
divided by square fields ; with a distant view of the Green 
Mountains. 

At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected a 
stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and 
capable of containing thirty people. The lake is there 
about seven feet deep, and the spot is excellent for fishing. 
Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken off in boats, and 
in hot weather an awning is spread to shade them from 
the sun. 

On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky 
and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected 
Tvith the shore only by a narrow neck. The deepest 
water is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove, 
where it is 150 or 170 feet to the bottom. The road run- 



152 THE NORTHERN 

ning north from Riley's is pleasant, but reaches only half 
a mile. 

The lake extends 7 miles in length, and is 2 in breadth. 
The shores are bold and varied, gently descending with 
a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crags 
from the water's edge ; sometimes softened and beautified 
by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes abandoned to 
all their native wildness. 

If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter may 
expect good sport in fishing ; and if not, he may calculate 
on a dinner table well supplied by other and more fortu- 
nate adventurers. There are also many kinds of wild fowl, 
birds, &c. in the neighbourhood, so that a sportsman may 
find great amusement here. 

There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 miles 
from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr. Green, near the ferry, 
where also visiters are accommodated. 

The Battle Ground, 

where General Burgoyne fought Gen. Gates and the Ame- 
ricans in the autumn of 1777, lies at the distance of 10 or 
12 miles, towards the east, and is described particularly at 
page 124 and onward : see page 154 for 

The Field of Surrender, and Gen. Burgoyne^s la$t Camp% 
At SchuylersvUle. 

Trout Fishing. 

Two miles eastward from the Springs, is a Trout Pond, 
to which sportsmen frequently resort. Mr. Barhyte, how- 
ever, who keeps the house, never permits the fish to be 
eaten any where else. 

The remarks which have been made on the gaiety of 
the two great watering places, are intended to apply only 
when they are the fashionable resorts of those throngs of 
visiters which every season appear at one or both of them. 
The changes in fashion which lead all the world some- 
times to prefer one and sometimes the other, and some- 
times to divide their visits equally between them both, are 
of so unaccountable a nature, that it is impossible for any 
one to divine ihem, or with any confidence to hazard a 



TRAVELLER. 153 

conjecture far into futurity. Seven or eight years ago, 
Ballston was the general rendezvous ; but Saratoga soon 
afterwards drained it of its company, and maintained its 
superiority in this particular until near the close of the 
season of 1824, when Sans Souci was filled to an overflow, 
and most of the other houses at Ballston were crowded 
with visiters. In 1825, the number of visiters was greater 
than it had been for eight years. If therefore the remarks 
heretofore made, concerning the liveliness and gaiety of 
either of these places, should at any time appear inappli- 
cable, it may be remembered that they have been often 
true of both, and doubtless will be so again. 

The Reading Room. 

Here, as %vell as at Ballston, a Reading Room is kept, 
where strangers will find newspapers from difierent parts 
of the country, and where they will be able to supply them- 
selves with books of different descriptions, to beguile their 
leisure hours. The Reading Room is at the Book Store, 
a little beyond the United States Hotel. 

A Record will also be found at the same place, into 
which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied 
once a day, from the books of the four principal 
houses. If any one expects to meet a friend here, or 
wishes to learn whether he has already left Saratoga, he 
has only to refer to this list and look for his name. 

THE BATTLE GROUND. 

The defeat of General Burgoyne in the year 1777, took, 
place a few miles east from the Springs. The two battles 
which he fought with the American army under General 
Gates, are commonly blended into one, and called the 
Battle of Saratoga. To speak strictly, however, they 
should bear the name of Bemis's Heights, where they 
actually took place ; though the name of Saratoga bears 
so fine a sound, that there seems on the whole little to be 
gained by the change. 

The field of battle having been already described, as 
well as the bloodshed and the victories of those important 
days, the visiter is referred to page 124 and onwards, for 
03 



144 THE NORTHERN 

an account which will aid him in tracing out the various 
positions and sites with distinctness and interest. 

It is proper to remark, however, that from Saratoga the 
visiter approaches the field in a different direction from 
that assumed by the description above alluded to ; and 
that Smith's Inn, where he stops, is the identical building 
in which Gen. Burgoyne had his quarters, and which was 
then known as " Swords's House." It was a little in the 
rear of the British lines, as described in Burgoyne's his- 
tory of his campaign, and has suffered no material altera- 
tion since, except by a removal from its original situation. 

After satisfying himself with an examination of this 
interesting vicinity, referring, as above recommended, to 
the description given some pages back, the traveller, if 
going northward, will pass over the route by which Gen. 
Burgoyne approached, and subsequently retreated, imme- 
diately after the battle of October 7th. 

SCHUYLER'SVILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, 

seven miles from the battle ground. A stage coach leaves 
Saratoga Springs three mornings in the week, which 
passes through this place. At this village is the place 
where Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on his retreat, 
on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the outlet of Sara- 
toga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which then stood on its 
banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates on the l7th October. 
The traces of his camp are still very discernible, in em- 
bankments, ditches, &c. and the house in which he had 
his head quarters, stood till within a few years. 

The British Camp, 

one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Batenkill 
Creek. From the hill where the British encampment 
was formed, a fine and extensive view may be had, upon 
the route towards Bemis's Heights. General Burgoyne 
occupied the night of October 8th and the following 
day in getting to this place, although it is but 7 miles, 
on account of the miserable state of the roads. Here he 
was detained for several days by the swelling of the waters 
of the dreek ; and when he crossed the stream, he left 



TRAVELLER, 155 

bis hospital, with 300 sick and wounded, who were treat- 
ed by Gen. Gates with every attention. 

Here the further retreat was cut off; for the Ameri- 
cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hud- 
son. Gen. Burgeyne therefore took his last position; 
and Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Morgan 
took post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. 
Fellows, with 3000 men, was stationed on the opposite 
side of the river. American troops were also in Fort 
Edward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. 

The Surrender. 

While remaining in this situation, the British were 
continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well 
as reduced by want of provision. Six dajs passed thus; 
when, on the l7th of October, 1777, a convention was 
signed, and the army being marched to the meadow near 
Old Fort Hardy, piled their arras and surrendered pri- 
soners of war, to the number of 5752 effective, with 52S 
sick and wounded. This meadow is in sight from the inn. 

The House op Gen. Schuyler 

stood on the spot now occupied by that of his son. It 
was burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat ; notwithstanding 
which, the British officers were afterwards received at 
his house in Albany, and treated with great kindness. 

REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. 

North. Three great routes from the Springs towards 
the north may be particularized, although they run almost 
side by side, and all unite on arriving at Lake Champlain. 
1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell on Lake George. 
2d, The Northern, or Champlain Canal. 3d, The road 
to Whitehall, the direct route on the way to Montreal.* 



* There oko are two stage routes to Montreal, one on each 
side of Lake Champlain. 



156 THE NORTHERN 

The first of these is usually travelled by strangers of 
taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery 
of Lake George, and the battle grounds in its vicinity ; 
and passes near several other spots of high interest for 
their historical associations. It is with a particular view 
to this route, that the places soon to be mentioned will 
be arranged and described. Even if a journey to Mon- 
treal is intended, it can hardly be too urgently pressed 
upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake 
George on his way, as he will find himself most amply 
rewarded, and can join the great route with facility at 
Ticonderoga. 

The second route, by the Northern Canal, may be met 
near the battle ground at Bemis's Heights : but it has 
hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for passen- 
gers, although there is one between Fort Edward and 
Whitehall, which meets the Champlain steam boat. In 
fine weather, however, gentlemen may travel very plea- 
santly for a few miles in the common freight boats. 

The third route is the road to Whitehall, which is fur- 
nished with public carriages from the Springs during the 
warm season, and, like the canal, passes near some of 
the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From 
W^hitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- 
plain in the steam boat, or by land in the mail coach. 

East. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the 
country in this direction, may take their choice of several 
routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Connecticut River 
from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Granville, 
as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — 
to Hanover, Brattleborough, Greenfield, Northampton, 
Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into nu- 
merous ramifications, offer the means of conveyance to 
every part of New- England. These routes are more 
particularly described under the head of " Roads" in the 
Index. 

To meet most of these routes, it will be necessary to 
proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, for 
which public carriages are established in several directions 
from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning which, arrange- 
ments may be made at the bar of the house where the 
stranger is lodged. 



( 



TRAVELLER. 157 

It it also important to mention, that two lines of coaches 
run along the courses of Hudson River and Wood Creek, 
one on each side ; and that the eastern one carries the 
mail through Castleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. 
silong the course of Lake Champlain, though generally at 
too great a distance to command a view of it. The coun- 
try there is very fine, the villages beautiful, and the sur- 
face frequently mountainous. This road meets several of 
the eastern roads ; but the traveller will probably prefer 
to take the steam boat, as he can land at the most im- 
portant points. 

The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man 
of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont 
to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New 
Hampshire. He may take, what road he pleases to Con- 
necticut River ; and then proceeding to Bath on its east- 
ern shore, pursue the course of the Lower Ammonoosuc 
River along an improving road to Ethan A. Crawford^s 
house among the White Mountains. 

As lists of places and distances on the most important 
routes are given in different parts of this book, the tra- 
veller is once more referred to the Index at the end of the 
volume, for any further information be may wish to ob- 
tain on this subject. 

For the roads leading South and West from the Springs^ 
he is referred directly to Ballston, where those routes are 
particularly mentioned and described. 

If he has never visited the Battle Ground at Bemis^s 
Heights, or, as it is usually called, of Saratoga, it may be 
recommended to him to take that interesting place in his 
way, and to refer to page 124 for the description of it. 



EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. 

This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashionable 
excursion which can be made from the Springs in any di- 
rection, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in 
the United States, and in numerous sites and objects in- 
timately connected with the history of the country. 

A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs every morning. 



15S THE NORTHERN 

for Caldwell, at the soutb end of the lake, passing through 
Glenn's Falls. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the British 
colonies and the French in Canada, to that of 1755, the 
tract over which part of our route lies was the high road 
of war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, in 
which the splendour and power of European arms mingled 
with the fierce tactics of savage warriors : the ruins of 
fortresses are still to be traced in several places, and 
tradition points to many a spot that has been sprinkled 
with blood. During the revolution also, some of the 
important events in our history took place in this 
neighbourhood. The Battle of Saratoga and the defeat 
of General Burgoyne have been already dwelt upon ; but 
we shall have to refer more than once to his expedition as 
•we pass other scenes with which the events of it are con- 
nected. 

The journey to Montreal may be made by the way of Lake 
George; and this route the book will pursue, to Montreal 
and Quebec, whither the reader, it is hoped, will accom- 
pany it. 

The Road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, 18 miUs. 

Wilton, 7 m. Here take the left hand road, where a 
poor house stands at the angle. This will prove the bet- 
ter route, and meets the other branch twice, at 4 and 6 
miles distance. Thirteen miles beyond, the road branches 
off east, for Sandy Hill- 

Half a mile before reaching the village, the road enters 
a rich plain, probably once overflown by the river, which 
is now discovered on the left, dividing it in its course, 
while the villags appears in front, with a handsome church 
spire, and a number of neat white houses, all backed by 
the mountains, which here stretch off towards the north. 

French Mountain is the most prominent eminence, of 
which more anon. A more distant range is likewise seen 
further to the right. 

Glenn's Falls. 

If the traveller is going on immediately to the lake, he 
should stop a few moments on the bridge, to see the falls 




(U 


■w 


■£ • 


O 






n 


:: 


U 





TRAVELLER. 159 

in the Hudson, which are in full view below. The river 
here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet, over a rock of 
dark blue lime-stone, which has been worn into so many- 
forms as to break up the current in a very singular man> 
ner. The projection of two large masses of rock, divides 
the water into three sheets, (except when it is much 
swollen by floods.) Of these, the northern one is much 
the largest, and the other two unite and pass through a 
deep channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped oflf the 
bridge here, twice, a few years ago, yet escaped without 
serious injury. The most water passes through the other 
channel.* 

A dam is thrown across just above the falls, which 
supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone with water, as 
well as several mills. On the north side of the river is a 
canal, which was intended for a feeder to the Champlain 
Canal, but has never been finished. It now furnishes 
water for several mills, and an artificial cascade. 

The great flat rock which supports the bridge, projects 
beyond it, and affords space for a small garden on its 
highest part, although the greater part of it is overflown 
in high floods. Like the other rocky strata there, it has a 
gentle dip towards the south, and a perpendicular fracture 
running nearly north and south. 

Caverns. — Passing through the garden, and turning to 
the left, the mouths of two caverns are found facing the 
north, in different places among the rocks. They have 
been cut through by the rushing of water, in a direction 
across the river's course, and corresponding with the natu- 



* Sandy Hill, 3 miles eastward. 

This village is pleasantly situated at the next fall in the river 
below. The cascade is less remarkable as an object of curiosity 
and interest, but is still worthy of attention it the stanger have 
sufficient time at his disposal. He will find a pleasant road 
onward ; and if he should be on his return from Lake George, 
and wishes to visit this part of the river, the Field of Sur- 
render, or the Battle Ground, before reaching Saratoga or 
Ballston, he will find it convenient to follow the course of 
the river. The village has a good inn. 

For a description of the principal scenes of this route, see 
Index. 



160 THE NORTHERN 

ral fracture. The first is just large enough to permit the 
passage of a man, and is cut with surprising regularity 
for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is made the 
scene of some of the most interesting chapters of Mr. 
Cooper's late novel of the Last of the Mohicans. The 
cavern (perhaps altered since 1757,) was the place where 
the wanderers secreted themselves, and were made cap- 
tives. The cavern conducts to one of the river's channels, 
where it opens on the side of a precipice, directly over 
the water. The banks of the river are perpendicular 
rocks as far as they can be seen ; and nearly opposite the 
caverns, under the north bank, is an abundant spring of 
fine, pure water, which pours from a hole in the rock, a 
few feet from the surface of the river. 

To the disciples of Dr. Kitchener, we will notice, that at 
Glenn's Fall, their taste for excellent cheer may be grati- 
fied to the greatest extent, at the inn of Messrs. Freehouse 
and Thurston. The former having acquired his proficiency 
in cooking from a French artist, their dishes are prepared 
in the best possible manner, and in a variety that will not 
fail to please — *"tis their vocation." 

About half-way between this place and Sandy Hill, a 
convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on 
their way to Lake George. 

Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ; 
and a little to the right of it, French Mountain Between 
them passes the road to Lake George. Towards the west, 
a range of high hills encloses the view, and in the east, 
the Vermont Mountains make a fine appearance. 

Near the foot of French Mountain is a small tavern, on 
the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. 
Dieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's 
Falls and Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The 
valley through which we pass is narrow for some distance 
beyond ; and after about half an hour's ride, (for there 
are no mile stones,) a little circular pond is discovered on 
the east side, and close by the road. It is generally 
almost concealed with water plants. 

This was near the plaice of action between Col. Wil- 
liams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his 
troops across the path, and advanced his wings some dis- 
tance in front, the left wing occupying the rising ground 



TRAVELLER. 161 

on the west side of the road near this place. A small 
cleared spot may be noticed on the other side, a little be- 
yond the pond, (in 1825, a hut stood upon it,) that is said 
to have been the principal scene of action ; and a singular 
rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the mark of 
Col. Williams's grave. This, however, is considered very 
doubtful ; by others, it is said that he ascended the rock 
to reconnoitre, and was shot from its summit. {Page 166.) 

The little pond above mentioned was the place where 
most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of 
Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller 
than formerly. In 1825, the skeleton of a man was dug 
up from a depth of U feet, near the pond, with a marble 
pipe, and some silver-eyed buttons bearing the royal 
stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in 
their season, with the Pond Lily, (Nymphea Alba,) their 
lurid petals shedding baleful influence upon the water. 

About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a fine 
view of 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect opens, 
and the lake appears, enclosed by mountains, many of 
which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of 
French Mountain is near at hand on the east, covered 
with thick trees to the summit ; while the smoothness of 
the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat 
white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a 
degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be found 
in any other spot. Directly at the south end of Lake 
George, are the remains of Forts George and William 
Henry, famous in the history of the French war ; and on 
the site of the former was General Johnson's camp, 
when he was attacked by Dieskau. The particulars of 
the action will be given hereafter. 

Caldwell. 

The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visiter 

will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and from 

which he will make his excursions across its beautiful 

waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake. 

P 



162 THE NOllTHfiRN 

and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the ne^h- 
bouring sheet of water and the mountains by which it is 
almost enclosed. The inn to which strangers resort oc- 
cupies a spot peculiarly fitted to gratify the eye of taste, 
as it overlooks the lake for several miles, and the view is 
not interrupted by any neighbouring obstacle. A more 
delightful place can hardly be found in the United »States, 
for the temporary residence of one who takes delight in 
scenery of this description, and loves to recur to deeds 
long past, and to exploits great in themselves and im- 
portant in their results, even to the present day. 

Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 
4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. 
The greatest depth is 60 fathoms. The water is remark- 
able for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the 
depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by 
springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bot- 
tom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There are deer 
in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which leads to 
Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids. 
The lake never rises more than two feet. 

The three best points of view are at Fort George, a 
place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at 
Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. 
The last view is taken southward, the other two north- 
ward. 

This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water, is bound- 
ed by two ranges of mountains, which in some places 
rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, and 
in others descending with a graceful sweep from a great 
height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with a 
charming variety of scenery, which every change of 
weather, as well as every change of position, presents in 
new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti- 
vation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agree- 
able ; and the undulating surface of the well tilled farm 
is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native fo- 
rest, and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no ve- 
getation can dwell. 

The situation of the Hotel is delightful, surpassing that 
of almost every other to be found in this part of the 
country. The traveller may hereafter take pleasure in 



TRAVELLER. 163 

comparing the scene enjoyed from his window, with those 
he may witness from the walls ot Quebec, Masonic 
Hall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niagara. The house 
is very large, having been increased within a year or two 
by the addition of a long wing, three stories high, so that 
it is now ca; able of furnishing lodgings for 100 persons, 
and the apartments are so arranged that half of them 
look out upon the lake. A green and handsome slope 
descends about 200 yards to the very margin, where 
there is no obstruction but a few trees and scattering 
buildings. There is the wharf, at which the steam boat 
Mountaineer receives and lands her passengers, often add- 
ing much variety to the place by an addition of company. 
The discharge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among 
the mountains in a clear night. 

The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide, 
and the range of mountains opposite, which are high and 
uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated with the exception 
of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being 
covered with trees almost to the water. 

On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which 
is formed of low land for some distance back, succeeded 
by French Mountain in the rear. On a little point, half 
covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above 
the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about 
a mile towards the south-east from it, on a considerable 
elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. For the history 
of these once important little fortresses, see a little farther 
on. 

Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, &c. 

Boats are kept at the wharf to convey strangers to any 
part of the neighbouring shores and islands. Fine perch, 
or black bass, {Perm Franklinia,) are caught in abun- 
dance almost every where; and trout, at the mouth of a 
small £stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle 
may be obtained at the hotel ; and a variety of other fish 
are to be found. 

Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and 
is famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are 
found in a loose rock by digging a little under the surface. 



164 THE NORTHERN 

They are found, however, in equal numbers in several of 
the other islands ; and it is, after all, the easier vray to 
purchase them, and not to permit the labour of searching 
for them to interfere with the pleasure of the excursion, 
particularly as that labour is often ineffectual. A poor 
family live on Diamond Island, subsisting partly on a small 
spot of tilled land, and partly on the produce of the crys- 
tals they sell to visiters. 

Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another 
favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land 
is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old 
hut standing which affords something of a shelter. 

Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been 
inhabited and cultivated. Beside these, there are many 
other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and 
those who are fond of such excursions, would be highly 
delighted with devoting several days to visiting them. 
The finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles dis- 
tant. These will be spoken of hereafter. 

The steam boat usually goes three times a week to the 
north end of the lake ; but is always ready to perform 
that excursion, and will take a party of 20 or more for 
$1 each. 

West of the village is a remarkable conica| eminence, 
called Ratllesnakes^ Cobble, or Prospect Hill. This, as 
well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of bears 
and deer, and much infested with rattle snakes. The view 
from the top is very fine. It is the place from which 
Hawk-eye, in the " Last of the Mohicans," leads his com- 
panions into fort William Henry through the mist. 

The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell 
is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege 
of fort William Henry, the ground which it now occupies 
was crossed by the trenches and batteries with which 
Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capitulation of 
that little fortress. 

The place where he landed with his army is the little 
cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps north 
of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and 
ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front 
of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as 
the marks of a small mortar battery, near the bars of a 



TRAVELLER. 165 

fence leading to Pike's* house. Another line runs to the 
bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was 
also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to the 
right, and another turns southward along the high ground. 
Behind this, in a pine wood, are the graves of about 1000 
French soldiers, who died in the fort. 

Battle op Lake George. 

In 1755, the year after the commencement of the 
French War^ 3000 men were sent out from France to 
Quebec, for the purpose of taking the Oswego Fort. This 
was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onondago 
River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The position 
derived its consequence from circumstances which no 
longer exist : the Indian trade from up the Lakes, the 
facility of communication with the Five Nations through 
this place, and the peculiar nature of the shores of Lake 
Ontario, which would not permit canoe navigation on the 
other side. There the two great branches of Indian 
trade concentrated ; and the nation which held possession 
of the point must necessarily sway a great influence over 
the Indians themselves: an advantage frequently of still 
greater importance to the country. Oswego Fort natu- 
rally became an object to both the French and the English 
at that time, and it formed a prominent figure in the history 
of the war. The English being in possession of that little 
fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its defence 
might doubtless have been easily secured, had their ope- 
rations been conducted with common |)rudence and energy. 
Unfortunately they were conducted in a very different 
manner ; and whoever would see a clear and able history 
of the first English expeditions in that war, and of the 
political party spirit which then ruled in this country and 
rendered them worse than ineffectual, is referred to " ./? 
Letter to a Lord," written soon after. 

In 1755 Gen. Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,) 

* This man, who is infirm, has leave from Mr. Caldwell to 
dig in the ruins of the fort, and keeps a quantity of interesting 
antiquities for sale. 

P2 



1^6 THE NORTHERN 

marched to the south end of Lake George with a consi- 
derable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. Hen- 
drick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending 
to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. Dieskau 
was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally taken 
from a body of French troops sent out to Quebec, 600 of 
whom had fallen into the hands of Admiral Boscawen at 
sea. Dieskau had first designed to besiege Fort Oswego. 
At Fort Frederick or Crown Point, he remained some 
time, and then determined to go and meet the English. 
He therefore went up tht South Bay, where learning the 
situaition ol Fort Lyman, (now Fort Edward,) he wished 
to attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The 
Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the 
cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he 
was obliged to march against Johnson. 

Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- 
son intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 men 
were sent out in the morning, under the command of Col. 
Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, drawn 
up in a semicircle, into which t!ie English entered before 
they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed 
them the position of their enemies. The English stood 
their ground valiantly ; but Col. Williams and Hendrick 
being both shot down, together with many others, they 
were obliged to begin their retreat, which was conducted 
by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and success. 

The centre of the English army was posted on the hill 
where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French 
were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted 
at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some 
mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave 
them lime to recover from their panic. The ground on 
both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered 
with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right 
flank and the Canadians on the left to surround them. 
Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight with 
a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops 
in front, and made them fire by platoons, with very little 
eflect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops,) was 
slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to 
his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He 



TRAVELLER. 167 

reeled the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's 
Itillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, 
hich consisted of Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's 
fjgiments, and extended from the road to where Fort 
iVm. Henry was afterwards built. Here they fought an 
jour, but the English and Indians charging them, they 
bok to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau him- 
jelf was found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- 
llier approaching saw him put his band to bis waist, to 
akeout his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and 
[supposing he was drawing a pistol, shot him through the 
khigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a 
Iblanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a 
[pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. 
Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that 
was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a 
superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with 
jealousy, and, in spite of the advantage the countr) had 
derived from his services, at a time when they were pe- 
culiarly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gen. 
Lyman in his account of the battle !— Johnson was made 
a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty 
and disappointment, and died without receiving even the 
notice of the British government. 

The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed and 
96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own loss at 
1000 — the English called it much less. The principal 
were a Maj. General, and M. de St. Pierre the command- 
er of the Indians. The French lost their baggage during 
the action, left two miles in their rear, it being attacked 
by Captains Folsom and McGinnies with about 100 New- 
York troops ; who then lay in wait for the retreating 
French, and killed great numbers of them. 

Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point; but he 
delayed it so long, that the French advanced to Ticonde- 
roga and there fortified themselves securely. 

But the Battle of Lake George is not the only nor the 
most sanguinary scene of former times which the traveller 
has to trace on this sadly interesting spot. The history 
of the French war recites a melancholy tale of blood-shed 
here, only two years afterwards, in 1757. 



iB8 THE NORTHEKN 



The Capture and Massacre of Fort William Hexry. 



So different was the state of the country sixty years 
ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in these 
wild regions, that a small work of earth thrown up on 
this site, and called Fort William Henry, was regarded as 
a fortress of considerable strength and consequence. It 
is indeed far overlooked by the neighbouring high ground, 
but probably the difficulty of dragging cannon over rocks 
and hilts, covered with forests, was then considered a suf- 
ficient obstacle to its performance, and probably for this 
reason Oswego Fort was built in a similar situation, and 
left so till taken by the French. 

In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander in 
Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by sea 
against Louisburgh ; and before his return to New- York 
in August, the French from Ticonderoga under the Mar- 
quis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort Wil- 
liam Henry. On the 1st of August they set out again, 
and landed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the 
2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George, within 
two miles of the fort, and the next morning sent in their 
summons. Col. vionroe defended himself resolutely for 
six days, hoping relief froni Coi. Webb and his 6000 men 
at Fort Edward : but having waited in vain, and burst ten 
of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and 
marched out with the honours of war and an assurance 
of being protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. 

He had gone but a little uay, however, when the sa- 
vages fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500, men, 
women, and children. 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The provin- 
cial troops were kept under arms for one whole day after 
the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and Sir 
William Johnson was very desirous to march with them 
to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their quar- 
ters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him 
to surrender. 



TRAVELLER. 169 



Attack on Fort Ticonderoga. 

The south end of Lake George was the scene of a 
splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the following 
year, [1758,] when 10,000 provincial troops, and 6 or 
7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed against 
Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were drawn up to the shore 
one clear delightful summer morning, and were speedily 
filled with this powerful army, excepting only a small body 
left with the baggage. Success was confidently expected, 
and the appearance of the train was more like that of a 
triumphant return from war. The boats were decorated 
with gaudy streamers, and the oars moved to martial 
music. 

The traveller will follow their route in the steam boat, 
for which see beyond. 

They landed at the north end of the lake on the follow- 
ing morning, and were ordered to march on in four co- 
lumns. The obstructions of the forest, however, soon 
broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe with his centre co- 
lumn falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who were 
on their retreat and bewildered, was attacked with a sud- 
den war whoop and immediately killed. The provincials 
were accustomed to the woods, and drove back their ene- 
mies, killing about 300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all 
returned to the landing. In the morning. Col. Bradstreet 
took possession of the mill at the great falls on the river, 
and the army were soon brought up to the French lines, 
which were thrown up across the isthmus and not finish- 
ed. This entrenchment is still to be seen in tolerable 
preservation. It had two redoubts, and a deep abattis, 
and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, though that 
seems improbable. The attack was vigorous, and the de- 
fence obstinate. The battle continued four hours, during 



*Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a 
young nobleman of amiable disposition, and the most prepos- 
sessing manners, and was almost idolized by the army, as well 
as admired and loved bv the coitntrr. 



170 THE NORTHERN 

which the English were repulsed three times. The High- 
land regiment distinguished itself, and suffered severely. 
The English loss, in all, was 1944, principally regulars; 
the French very trifling, although they are said not to 
have imagined the defence possible. Their.force is dif* 
ferently stated from 1200 to 6000. Notwithstanding his 
superiority of force, Abercrombie shamefully ordered a 
retreat ; and thus terminated the operations of the year. 



Voyage down Lake George. 

Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's house at 
a quarter of a mile, the steam boat passes Tea Island, 
Diamond, Long, and other Islands, particularly the Two 
Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and the sur- 
face more uninterrupted, the course of the boat being di- 
rectly towards a remarkable eminence, with a double 
summit, called Tongue Mountain, That which partly shuts 
it in from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock ; 
and Black Mountain shows its rounded summit beyond it, 
a little to the right. This last is supposed to be about 
2200 feet high, and is considered the highest mountain on 
the lake. 

Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of 
Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great dis- 
tance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singularly round- 
ed form, covered with trees, with the utmost regularity, 
and protected from the washing of the waves by a range 
of large stones along the shore, so well disposed as to 
seem like a work of art. 

A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the western shore, 
before reaching Tongue Mounrain, which belongs to a 
new township. 



The Narrows. 



The lake is very much contracted where it passes be- 
tween the mountains just mentioned, and their surface is 
for several miles broken bv innumerable islands. These 



JVori^i 




TRAVELLER. 171 

are of various sizes, but generally very small, and of little 
elevation. A few of them are named, as Green, Bass, 
Lone-tree Islands. Some of them are covered with trees, 
others with shrubs, some show little lawns or spots of 
grass, heaps of barren rocks, or gentle sloping shores ; 
and most of them are ornamented with gracetul pines, 
hemlocks, and other tall trees, collected in groupes, or 
standing alone, and disposed with most charming variety. 
Sometimes an island will be observed just large enough to 
support a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while 
the next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and wild 
flowers : near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark 
grove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it ; 
and thus, through every interval between the islands as 
you pass along, another and another labyrinth is opened 
to view, among little isolated spots of ground, divided by 
narrow channels, from which it seems impossible for a 
person who should have entered them, ever to find his 
way out. Some of the islands look almost like ships 
with their masts ; and many have an air of lightness as if 
they were sailing upon the lake. 

After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, 
and the retrospect is, for several miles, through that pas' 
sage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black 
Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a 
great distance between them. The mountains in view 
have generally rounded summits ; but the sides are in 
many places broken by precipitous ledges. They are in- 
habited by wolves, deer, rattle snakes, &c. 



Sabbath Day Point. 

This is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake 
from the western shore, and containing the little village 
of Hague. That on the opposite shore is Putman. 

On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his nu- 
merous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morning 
of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name 
by which it is now known : it is a charming spot and 
susceptible of the greatest embellishment. 



172 THE NORTHERN 



RoGERS^s Rock and Anthony's Nose; 

These are two mountains at which the lake contracts 
itself again to pass between them. They are seen for 
several miles, and appear at fir&t to approach each other 
much nearer than they actually do. The shores of the 
lake still continue elevated, and all more distant objects 
are excluded from the sight. The country appears almost 
without inhabitants, but a few cultivated farms are dis- 
tinguishable here and there. Anthony's Nose presents a 
precipice, on the eastern shore, as we enter the strait, 
and the firing of a gun produces a fine echo. Rogers^s 
Rock or Rogers's Slide is a still more formidable one, 
on the other hand, a little further on. The last re- 
trospect up the lake is still very fine, even from this point 
— Black Mountain being yet clearly to be seen. 

Rogers^s Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, a parti- 
san officer who distinguished himself in the French war 
by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded 
an expedition which left Crown Point, in the year 1756 
against the Canadian frontiers, and cut off the Indian vil- 
lage of St. Francis, afterwards returning with the severest 
hardships, by the way of Connecticut River. Tradition 
says, that he was at another time closely pursued by a party 
of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this moun- 
tain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended half 
down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then 
by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is a preci- 
pice about 200 feet high, of smooth rock, and nearly per- 
pendicular, down which he slipped upon his snow shoes 
to the lake, escaping upor> the ice. This seems almost 
incredible ; and other accounts have been given of it. 
Some say, that the Indians supposed he had fallen off the 
verge and perished, and others, that he threw off his 
pack that way to favour that belief. The water is deep 
at the bottom, and fine trout are caught there with a long 
line. 

The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrow 
pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both 
ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but 
hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of these are 



TRAVELLER. 173 

at length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, although 
at such a distance, at length makes its appearance again, 
and continues in sight. 

The lake at length diminishes to a very narrow stream, 
and the bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. 

Lord Howe^s Landing is just behind an island of 3 
acres, on the left hand at the entrance of the creek. 
Here is the spot where the unfortunate expedition of 
Abercrombie effected their landing, and on the island 
they established their hospital, on their way to the at- 
tack of Ticonderoga. 

The steam boat passes on some distance beyond this 
place, and lands her passengers on the other side, where, 
at her regular voyages, carriages are found in waiting to 
convey them to Ticonderoga, 3 miles, over a rough 
road. 

Those who intend to take asteam boat on Lake Champlain, 
should be careful to inquire the hour when it passes, and 
regulate their time accordingly. It is intended that Ti- 
conderoga shall become one of the stopping places, which 
will prove a great convenience, and a fine inn is abo 
erecting there. 

Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way 
along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, which 
are the highest, he forded the creek above the second. 
At the falls near the bridge which we pass, just above the 
saw mills, was a stone block house ; and there was a re- 
doubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge, 
where, as in several other places, there was some fighting 
to carry the French oul-posts. 

At the Upper Falls are several valuable saw mills and 
forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. 

THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. 

This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are 
distinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though from the 
direction by which we approach it ; they are not dis- 
covered until we approach near them. An elevated 
piece of land, gently sloping towards the south, and 
ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, appears partially 
f overed with trees, and crowned near its extremitv with 
Q 



174 THE NORTHERN 

a cluster of broken walls and chimneys. There is a 
meadow on the eastern side, running to the base of the 
ridge, and across this is a foot path from the ferry to the 
fort by the nearest way. A carriage road also leads from 
the ferry to the ridge, and thence down to the same 
place. 

The Old French Lines, 

where General Abercrombie was defeated in 175S, are 
the only part of the fortification which was ever the scene 
of a battle. They commenced on the east side, at a bat- 
tery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter of a 
mile south of the ferry. The remains of the breast work 
can yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig-zag ; 
first stretching off to the right, along the side of marshy 
ground, to a cluster of bushes, where was a battery ; and 
then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another. 

Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner, 
across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to 
the brow of a steep bank looking towards tne oudet of 
Lake George. The ground is so high on the top of this 
ridge, that it must have been a commanding position when 
clear of trees. The woods which now so much interrupt 
the sight, have grown since the evacuation of the fortress, 
after the Revolutionary war. The trees are all young. 

There is a fine spring of water near the western part 
of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occur- 
i-ed between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies 
of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, 
and shot were formerly very frequently found in old 
timber. 

Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this 
place. It was occupied by Gen. Burgoyne's British line, 
which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticon- 
tJeroga, on the 2nd of June, 1777 ; and on the following 
morning, while they were approaching through the woods 
unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their soldiers was 
observed and fired upon from a salient angle of the lines. 
This alarmed the British, who fired ; and the Americans 
were so much excited that they returned three volleys, 
without orders from their officers. Strange as it maf 



TRAVELLER. 17i5 

seem not a man was killed on either side, and the enemy 
retired without attempting any thing further there, for 
they succeeded in capturing the fortress in a few days, 
by gaining the top of Mount Defiance with their cannon. 

In proceeding from the French lines south towards the 
fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the ground 
appears to have been in some places smoothed in former 
times by the plough, and by the removal and cutting away 
of rocks, to render it convenient for the evolutions of 
troops, and the use of artillery. A close observer will 
also remark that he passes the remains of several distinct 
lines of small redoubts, placed at equal distances, and 
ranged in the form of a quincunx. These were intended 
to embarrass still further the approach to the fortress, 
which assumes the air of a more important work as you 
approach it. 

There is the corner of a fence near the fortress, at 
which the horses are usually left. Just before arriving 
there, at the distance of about 120 yards, you pass an old 
entrenchment; and about 150 yards further bring you to 
the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there 
was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to 
the walled side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep 
in some places, and therefore impassable except where it 
has been partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 
8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other 
side in some places 20 or 25 feet high. 

The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces alarge 
tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, 
which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added 
very much to the security of the place. The communi- 
cation between these different parts was kept up by stone 
staircases, placed in convenient positions of the angles, 
all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches, 
and the ascent, circuitous and intricate ; and open to the 
cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those which 
remain will show the plan. The walls were originally 
much higher than at present, being raised by superstruc- 
tures of logs filled in with earth, to such a height as to 
protect the barracks, &c. the remains of which are on the 
principal part of the fortress. 

The Bfjrracks formed an oblong, and the walls still ren 



176 THE NORTHERN 

main of all except those on the eastern side ; their form is 
plainly distinguishable. The parade, which they include, 
appears to have been formerly carefully smoothed, and a 
flat rock, which forms part of the surface, looks as if it had 
been cut down by art. This area is about 52^ yards long, 
and 8 in breadth. The barracks, &c. the walls of which 
remain on the north, south, and west sides, are built of 
the rough blue lime-stone of which the neighbouring rocks 
are formed, two stories high ; and these with the chim- 
neys, several of %vhich are standing, are the principal ob- 
jects seen from a distance. The entrances to this court 
yard or parade, are between the buildings, and quite nar- 
row ; and the solid style of building, with the dark colour 
of the stone, and the loopholes which are seen in some 
parts of the walls, increase the gloomy impression of the 
ruins. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen entered 
with his S3 raw soldiers when he suprised the fortress on 
the 18th May, 1775 ; and on reaching the court yard and 
calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer, 
Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and sub- 
mitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. In 
consequence of this coup de main, this important place 
was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of 
Burgoyne in 1777. 

The troops in the garrison had become loose disciplina- 
rians. Allen^pproached with a few men upon the oppo- 
site shore, but was unprovided with a conveyance to the 
intended point of their enterprise. A countryman, who 
had been in the habit of frequently visiting the fort, was 
made acquainted with Allen's views, crossed the lake 
by day light, went carefully into the fort, and observed 
in what part of the parade ground the arms were stacked. 
Being almost domiciliated by the frequency of his previous 
visits, he lounged away his time until night approached. 
He then possessed himself of a large bateau owned by 
the garrison, and recrossed the lake. Allen with his little 
Spartan band embarked, effected a landing about one 
mile north of the fort, and proceeded across the meadows, 
shrouded by the night, and made good their daring enter- 
prise, by threatening the sentry and taking immediate 
possession of the fire arms, as pointed out by their avant 
courier. 



TRAVELLER. 177 

The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the proud 
flag of independence. This circumstance should of itself 
render this ruin, so fine in other associations, interesting 
to the traveller. 

At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and 
under that in the north-eastern one is a subterranean 
apartment, the access to which is through a small en- 
trance near that corner of the court yard. The room was 
probably a kitchen, as it has a fire place and two arched 
ovens at the further end : that on the left, which is the 
larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The room is also 
arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 in breadth, 
and 10 or 11 in height, and like the ovens was bomb- 
proof The cellars south of this, which belonged to the 
demolished buildings, and are almost filled up, have a 
room or two with fire places still distinguishable. 



The Grenadiers' Battery. 

This important outwork is situated on a rocky point to- 
wards the east from the main fortress. They were con- 
nected by a covered way, the traces of which are dis- 
tinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced with 
stone, with five sides, one of which measures about 180 
feet ; but that towards the lake has been undermined by 
time arid slipped down the bank. The remaining parts 
are nearly entire, and about 10 feet high. 

Still in advance of the Grenadiers' Battery is a small 
work of earth, which might have contained 5 or 6 guns ; 
while in front of it, and on the extreme point, two or three 
more guns appear to have been placed between the rocks, 
to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. The 
shrubs and trees which have grown up since the 
evacuation of the place, with the ivy which hangs every 
where among the rocks, give the spot a very romantic 
appearance ; and if the visiters have furnished them- 
selves with refreshments, they will not find a more 
delightful place to regale themselves. A little further 
east, and under the bank, is an old stone house, formerly 
a store belonging to the fort, and now occupied by the 
Q 2 



178 THE NORTHEIIN 

tenant of Mr. Pell, the proprietor of the whole peninsula 
of Ticonderoga. On a spot formerly occupied as the 
King's Garden, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the 
choicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported 
from the celebrated nurseries of Long Island. Mr. Pell 
has been a very successful propagator of the locust tree, 
{Robinia Pseudo acacia of Linnaeus,) thousands of which 
are growing on these grounds in the most flourishing man- 
ner : here is also the Magnolia Grandijlora, never before 
cultivated in so high a latitude ; the horse chesnut ( CaS' 
tnnea Equinus,) and upwards of 70 varieties of the goose- 
berry from Europe. Here also we find the beautiful Catalpa, 
and the Liriodendron tulipefera. The grounds are laid out 
with good taste, and when visited by the author were in 
excellent order. If it is the intention of the traveller to 
cross the lake, to the neighbouring Vermont shore, where 
are still some slight remains of Burgoyne's entrenchments, 
he will be much pleased with a walk across the mea- 
dows to the upper ferry, a distance of about 5 of a mile. 
This will remind him, if he has been abroad, of the park 
scenery of England ; and the view of the ruins from those 
meadows is strikingly beautiful : the clumps of trees, the 
circuitous route, the view of Lake Champlain on the 
right, and an amphitheatre of wood on the left, make this 
a most beautiful and interesting route. 

Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the fortress, the 
shore retains traces of many little terraces, breastworks, 
and buildings, such as were probably work shops, barracks, 
stores, &c. 

From the more elevated parts of the works the visiter 
enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful view of the lake and 
the surrounding country. On the right is the outlet of 
Lake George, winding through a dark and narrow valley, 
and spreading out to embrace an island of the brightest 
verdure ; while more immediately under the eye lies a 
fertile little meadow, interspersed with a few trees and 
clusters of shrubs, and after the hay has been made and 
stacked, sometimes enlivened by a herd of horses or cattle. 
The south-western angle of the fortress, which looks down 
upon this scene, is one of the most elevated parts of the 
remaining wall, and overhangs the descent to the mea- 
dow, at the edge of which, lust by the side of a stone wall 



TRAVELLER. I7a 

below, are seen the traces of the old covered way, which 
led from the south gate to the margin of the lake. 

The great mountain, which rises dark and abruptly from 
the opposite shore, is 

Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit 
of which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed themselves on 
the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy 
cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night, 
and planted in that commanding position, whence they 
could count the men in the fort. The distance to the sum- 
mit in a straight line is about a mile, so that the defence 
of Ticonderoga would have been impossible; and on the 
firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the 
lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Ameri- 
cans made preparations to evacuate the place, and effected 
their retreat to the opposite shore during the night. 

At the foot of Mount Defiance is a beautiful little bay 
formed by a narrow piece of land, called Sword Point, 
from its bending round in the arc of a circle, and covered 
with trees and bushes. 

The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the 
view is extremely fine from its summit. There are the 
remains of Burgoyne's battery, with holes drilled in the 
rocks for blasting, and the marks of a large block house. 
A screw jack for raising their heavy cannon from tree to 
tree was found a few years ago, and removed, with other 
articles. 

Mount Independence is a hill of comparatively small 
elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated from it 
by the lake, which has here reduced its size to that of a 
small river. On a bank, just above the water, are the re- 
mains of a zig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, run- 
ning across a little corn field behind a house, and making 
five or six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable on 
an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge 
once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the 
buttresses of which are remauiing, to the great annoyance 
of the navigators of the lake ; the steamboat passes to the 
south of them. On the west shore, (near the stone store 
house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, caused 
his flotilla to be run on shore. These hulks remain 
almost as sound as when first stranded. A forty-two 



180 THE NORTHERN 

pounder is said to have ranged from the Horse Shoe over 
this channel, (now marked by a buoy,) and the fortress. 

After the Revolutionary ^var about 500 cannon were 
lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left 
by the English with their trunions knocked off. A twenty- 
four pounder was taken to the forge at Fair-Haven some 
few years ago, and discharged by the heat, after lying 
loaded for above twenty years, and a considerable time at 
the bottom of the lake. 

The mountainous region on the west side of the lake 
abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed 
every season. 

Ticonderoga is doubtless destined to become a favourite 
place of resort for strangers, as it possesses so many at- 
tractions in its scenery, its historical monuments and as- 
sociations, and will hereafter offer so many conveniences, 
in being a stopping place for the steam boats, and furnished 
with a large hotel. 

The Passage from Ticonderoga down Lake Cham- 
plain 

is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way 
to Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

Five Mile Point. 

The lake is narrow at this place, which is remarkable 
as the landing place of Gen. Burgoyne's expedition, as 
already mentioned. Mountains appear in the west and 
north-west, with occasional intervals all the way up to 
Crown Point ; while in the north, is a lofty and imposing 
range, with two or three peaks almost bald from the 
height of their elevation. Summits multiply as we pro- 
ceed, and distant mountains arise also in the north-east ; 
•while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards the 
south bound the view in that direction. There are scat- 
tering farms and houses on both shores. 

Navigation of Lake Champlnin. Great numbers of small 
schooners navigate these waters, and within a few years 
numerous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts for 
schooners for sailing-. Annesley's mode of building vessels 



TKAVliLLEK. 181 

has lately been adopted here to some extent, in which 
timbers are discarded, and the bulls formed of inch boards 
running in several thicknesses, and in cross directions. 

There are many fish caught in some parts of the lake. 

The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments 
of blue lime-stone rock with organic remains. 

The immediate shores are generally low all the way to 
Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west 
at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly 
to the north again. A low stretch of land covered with a 
young forest on the left, conceals the approach to this 
ancient fortress, which, for position, as well as appearance 
and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderogat. 

Chimney Point, 

where the steam boat often receives and lands passen- 
gers, is on the north side of the lake, with a large public 
house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the place to 
stop if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which 
is opposite, across a ferry t of a mile. 

From this elevated spot the view is various and exten- 
sive, up the lake on the left, down it on the right, with 
its narrow channel just in front — Crown Point opposite, 
and a mountain beyond, with many ranges of distant 
mountains towards the south-east, and several bold emi- 
nences near at hand in the south-west and west. 

This point is almost insulated by two bays ; and an old 
breast work is partly perceptible, which formerly stretched 
40 or 50 rods between them, near a barn. Cattle used to 
be brought down here in great numbers for the use of the 
garrison. A ferry boat will take the traveller over to 
Crown Point at any hour, but the steam boat proceeds 
immediately. 

The Fortress op Crown Point. 

There are several old works thrown up along the shore, 
with little bays between them. The eastern-most one is 
called the Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is' the ori- 
ginal old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; 



18^ THE NORHEllN 

and that further west is an outwork to a bastion of the 
fortress. 

The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back 
from the shore, and appears much like Ticonderoga from 
a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the old 
barracks, and walls of earth surrounding them. In regard 
to its plan, however, it is materially different. The for- 
tress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form 
of a pentagon, Avith bastions at the angles, and a strong re- 
doubt at the distance of 250 or 3(»0 yards in advance of 
each of thsm. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch 
walled in with stone, except where it has been blasted 
into the solid rock of blue lime-stone, (as is the case in 
many parts, from five to twenty -five feet,) and even into 
the quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are 
found in the lime-stone rock, frequently four inches in 
diameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and 
there is a convenient path running entirely round upon 
the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and 
south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some 
fine views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not 
far short of half a mile. It was built in 1756. 

Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; 
and close by, the remains of a covered or a subterraneous 
way to the lake shore. On entering the fortress, the 
stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded 
on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of 
stones two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while 
the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the 
right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The 
place was surprised by Col. Warner in 1775. 

The view from the walls towards the north is very fine : 
looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of 
two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, 
and two other points projecting beyond the distant peak, 
called CameVs Hump ; a range of mountains on the western 
shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, including 
Bald Peaky gradually approach till they form a near 
and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with 
cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to 
the south, terminate in the mountains behind. This 
elevation, although it seems almost as well calculated to 



TRAVELLER. 183 

I command Crown Point as Mount Defiance does Ticon- 
deroga, is not less than four miles distant. 

Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks of 
ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in 
the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the 
shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little hay 
mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances 
and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The 
ground around it is much covered with fragments of 
blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the ruins 
of old buildings. The trees which are seeti, have grown 
since the evacuation of the place ; and on one of the angles 
is an inscription of the date of the fortress. 

In 1776 the British had a fleet on Lake Charaplain com- 
posed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. 
Pringle, carrying 18 twelve pounders; two schooners, one 
with 14 the other with 12 six pounders ; a flat-bottomed 
radeau with 6 twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 20 small 
craft,[each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pound- 
ers, and several long boats, beside boats for baggage, 
stores, &c. 

The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 sloop, 
3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest vessel carrying only 
12 six and four pounders. These were under the com- 
mand of Arnold, who drew them up between the island 
of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were at- 
tacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last 
retreated ; but while making his way towards Crown 
Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron 
fled up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated. 
Arnold remained fighting as long as possible, and did not 
leave his vessel until she had taken fire. 

The eastern bastion rakes the little bay, over which is 
seen the Grenadiers' Battery, backed by a high hill on the 
opposite shore, and several ranges of mountains. On the 
right stretches away the lake, With still more lofty blue 
ranges in the distance, uninterrupted to the very south. 
The intermediate near ground declines gently and 
smoothly before us ; and before the present growth of oaks 
and other trees made their appearance, could he swept by 
the cannon of the fortress. 

On making a signal at the ferry to the steam boat, siie 



164 THE NORTHERN 

will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding down Ihe 
lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at the two 
islands on the right it is about li miles across. A little 
further is 

Put-in-Bny, on the eastern shore, with an island of 
the same name. A little north the lake appears nar- 
rower than it is, with a precipice on the left, and a small 
island on the right, with three bushes on it, which has 
hence obtained the name of the Scotch Bonnet. Looking 
south the lake presents a fine expanse, extending almost 
to Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the right. 

Basin Harbour is a stopping place. It is very small, 
•with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great distance in 
the N. E. is seen the Camel's Hump : further north a high 
mountain in Halifax, Vt. 

Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low in the 
middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike 
masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty day, in the 
Revolutionary or French war, and fired upon by a vessel, 
whence its name. 

At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of 
several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. On 
the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees, 
like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from 
the main land only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet. 
Apparently just within this aperture is a rude arch of rock, 
like the remains of an ancient bridge. A beautiful bay 
makes up behind the island, of which a glimpse is caught 
in passing; and a little further north it opens beautifully 
to view, with a smooth declining shore beautifully culti- 
vated for several miles. Farms and farm houses are seen 
there in every direction, and the country exhibits every 
appearance of industry and fertility ; while a blue range 
of the Alleghanies rises behind them, like the Catskill 
Mountains seen from the city of Hudson. 

On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a 
distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster of 
white buildings is discovered forming the little village 
of Charlotte or McNeil's Ferry, which is backed by a 
few fields and orchards. Further north the shores 3rr 
;-nnkv, and ris^e abrnptly from the water. 



V 



// - 



^<7>(V'»t^ 






^,. ) 



TRAVELLER. 185 



BURLINGTON, 

75 miles from Whitehall. 



This is the largest town on Lake Champlain, and is 
situated in a commanding as well a? a delightful position. 
The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from the 
south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to it from the east, 
surrounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter 
of which the town is situated. The view from the top of 
the hills is truly admirable ; embracing in the foreground 
the elegant gardens of some of the wealthier inhabitants, 
with the streets of Burlington below, the curving form of 
the bay, the whole breadth of the lake, here ten miles 
across, and a noble chain of distant blue mountains on the 
opposite side. The college has been rebuilt. The road to 
"Windsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting. 

Port Kent, 10 miles, 

is a small village on the western shore 16 miles from Bur- 
lington. It was begun to be built in 1824, to serve as a 
port to the Iron works established a little back in the 
country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. It con- 
tains two large stores, a wharf, &.c. 

PLATTSBURGH, 8 miles. 

This is a town of considerable importance, situated on 
the banks of a small river called the Saranac, and just 
behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on which is a 
line of forts erected for the defence of the place. The 
town commands a fine view. ( Waterfalls on the Saranac) 

Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle 
during the late war with Great Britain. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh. 

While Gen. Macomb was stationed at Plattsburgh, Sir 
George Prevost came from Canada with an army, and 
occupying the village, stood ready to attack the American 
troops, who were in position on the elevated ground, be- 



1S6 THE NORTHERN 

tween the east bank of the river Saranae and the precipi- 
tous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, &c. are 
still to be seen. Com. McDonough was at that time on 
the lake with the American squadron ; and hearing of 
the approach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, ex- 
tended his line between Hospital Island and Cumberland 
Head, where he received and fought the enemy, with such 
success as to capture all his vessels. The action con- 
tinued 2 hours and 20 minutes, and was performed in full 
sight of the armies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Confiance, 
had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, and was 
twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of Prevost, 
and relieved that part of the country from being overrun. 
McDonough' s Farm lies on that part of Cumberland 
Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and consists 
of 200 acres. It was presented to him by the Legislature 
of Vermont, in gratitude for his victory. 



CHAZY, 15 mites. 
Rouse's Point, 12 miles. 

There is a village by this name, on the western aide ; 
and a mile beyond it. 

The Fort, which is a kind of large castle, built of hewn 
stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers of embra- 
sures. It stands at the end of a low point, and was built 
to command the passage of the lake during the last war. 
On running the line of the United States and Canada, 
the commissioners at first fixed the boundary a little south 
of this place, so as to bring the fort within the limits of 
the latter ; but in consequence of the line agreed on by 
the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was determined 
that an arrangement should be made for the benefit of 
both parties ; and the boundary has been left in its former 
place. An opening through the woods, like a road, marks 
the place, about half a mile north of the fort. 

The country hereabouts is very uninteresting: for the 
Jevel country has begun which extends far into Canada. 
The appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they 
l»eing low, and in many places almost overflown by thp 



_ J^ortTv 




Dorjchestoi'^''.'g ^ 

S'.f Johns K' 

~ O 



,:-,X 




TRAVELLER. 187 

waters of the lake. There are but few signs of cultiva- 
tion, but the country is evidently experiencing an increase 
uf population. 



Isle aux Noix, 1 1 miles. 

This is the English frontier post ; and has been chosen 
with judgment, as although the ground is of hardly any 
elevation, it is higher than any in the neighbourhood ; and 
the island is so situated as partly to occupy the channel, 
and entirely to command it. 

There is a long wall and battery on the south side, with 
angles ; beyond which are seen a large stone building, 
and the roofs of others on the left and right of it, forming 
the store houses, &,c. of the post. The channel is on the 
east side, and very narrow, faced for a considerable dis- 
tance by another battery. Sentries are posted in different 
places. The ship yard succeeds, and the oflBccrs' quar- 
ters, generally neat, one story buildings, with little gar- 
dens tastefully laid out. Here is a landing place in the 
Chinese style. A large stockaded building, which is the 
tospital, succeeds, with a large arch raised on the shore, 
bearing the royal crown. 1 he little cabins are the sol- 
diers' quarters, and some of them are neat, and orna- 
mented with flowers. 

The expedition against Canada, in 1775, consisted of 
two divisions : one of 3000 New- England and New- York 
soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgomeiy, pro- 
ceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from Ticonderoga 
and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. The 
other, which was planned and despatched subsequently, 
consisted of a large body, under Gen. Arnold, and pro- 
ceeded through the wilderness, in the District of Maine, 
for Quebec. The former division, after a little delay, pro- 
ceeded to St. John's. They afterwards formed at this 
place a chevaux de frieze in the river. 

Beyond, the shores continue low and uninteresting, 
with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the 
fercst encroaching to within a short distance behind. 



188 THE NORTHERN 



St. John's, 10 miles. 

Here the steam boat stops, at the head of the rapids, 
and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches are some- 
times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly oa 
their way to Montreal : (16 miles by land, and 9 by water on 
the St. Lawrence, in a steam boat.) But the arrangements 
are sometimes different, and it has even been the custom 
often to spend a night in thia place. I he stage bouse, on the 
left hand, about a quarter of a mile up the main street, is 
in some respects an excellent house. 

The village presents nothing worthy of particular atten- 
tion, except as the scene of some military deeds, connect- 
ed with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against this 
country. 

While the continental troops were stationed at Isle aux 
Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler came 
down the river, and landed a mile and a half above this 
town, but were attacked by the Indians on their march, 
and though they succeeded in repelling them, thought 
proper to return. Soon afterwards they came again and 
invested the fort, which contained a garrison of 5 or 600 
troops, beside 200 Canadians, and was commanded by 
Major Preston. The siege lasted 6 weeks, and they did 
not capitulate till some time after the surrender of Cham^ 
biy, nor till the Americans had brought their trenches to 
the walls of the fort. They then obtained possession of 
17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with balls, bombs, &c. 
&c. 

The Canadian money is different from that of the 
United States ; but in consequence of the continual inter- 
course, the latter passes currer-tly. Nine sous or cop- 
pers, (which are of various and sometimes curious stamps,) 
equal six cents. 2 sous nearly 1 d, and 20 cents a shilling. 

The pleasantest road from St, John's to Montreal, is by 
Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see the Index ;) but 
as no regular coaches go that way, it is recommended to 
hire a carriage in Montreal, on returning from Quebec. 

Leaving St. John's for Montreal, the road passes about 
a mile along the western shore of the River Richelieu, 
which sometimes takes the names of St. John's and So- 



TRAVELLER. 189 

rel, in consequence of its running by those towns. Se- 
veral mountains are in sight, as Bclceil, Boucherville, &c. 

The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small 
scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Lawrence, 
which will hereafter excite the interest, if not the appre- 
hension of the stranger. The bed of the Richelieu has a 
rapid descent in several places, where it comes immedi- 
ately under observation, and becomes so shallow as to be 
passable for the flattest boats only during the floods. In 
the summer, it is generally only a few inches deep, and 
the surface broken by numerous stones of all sizes, and 
here and there by little water falls near the shore. At 
the same time the banks are low and flat ; the houses of 
one floor, whitewashed, and built at nearly equal distances, 
facing the river ; and, in short, the general character 
of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a 
view here, by making allowance for its size and fertility. 

The inhabitants, out of the town, immediately assume 
the aspect of foreigners, in dress, countenance, man- 
ners, customs, and language. Their fashions are an- 
tique, and many of them have not been changed for ages : 
the men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, 
and moccasin of rough leather. The women work labo- 
riously in the field, and all of them speak French, gene- 
rally without knowing a word of any other language. 
The Tarms will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200 
acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in length ; 
and the system of farming is extremely bad, as will be 
discovered at once, by the acres that are consigned to the 
useless and destructive little Canada Thistle. There is 
no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation 
of crops, and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow, 
except that lately the use of manure has begun to be 
resorted to in a small degree. The horses are of a small 
breed, well known in the northern states, by the name of 
the country. They are small and slow, but powerful and 
hardy. Many of them are driven across the line, and 
large horses introduced into the towns in return. The 
value of a common Canadian horse is about 5540 ; and of 
a good one, $80. 

There is very little to be seen on this road to interest 
the trnveller. except the noveltv of what he observe?. 
R2 



100 THE NORTHERN 

The landscape is unvarying : tbe inhabitants as well as 
the soil are poor, and there is nothing that deserves the 
name even of a village. We pass a house novv* and then, 
dignified by a tall pole or mast raised in front of it, which 
is a singular mark of distinction conceded to officers of 
militia, and usually adopted by those of the lowest grades. 
The people appear very happy, and have healthy coun- 
tenances, inclining to round faces, and thick lips. Many 
of them show the upper front teeth when silent ; and 
their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes a want 
of education, which is the real cause of the backward 
condition of society in Canada. They are all Catholics ; 
and the churches seen here and there upon the road, are 
all devoted to the service of the Romish church. One 
large church, lately built of gray stone, will be seen on 
the south side of the road. 

The Half Way House 

is dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants understand 
English, and it is generally stopped at only a few 
minutes. The land is divided in some places by ditches 
round the farms ; and there are the channels of several 
small streams which cross the road. One of these is 
passed on a bridge, just east of the slopping place. 

About i a mile beyond, are some barracks built for 
troops, during the late war. One of the most singular 
traits in the domestic arrangements of the Canadians, 
is building the oven not only out of doors, like the Dutch, 
but directly over the pig sty. 

The mountain from which the city of Montreal derived 
its name, and which rises immediately behind it, may be 
discovered at a great distance ; and the house of Mr. Me 
Tavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a little dis- 
tance up its side. 

Some time before reaching the river, you pass an ex- 
tensive common, lying on the south side of the road, and 
then enter the town of 

Laprairie. 

Hotchkiss's inn, near the river, kept by a man from the 
United States. 



TRAVELLER. I'Jl 

This is a large town, from which a steam boat crosses 
three times a day, to Montreal, 9 miles. It is built after 
the Canadian fashion ; and very few of the inhabitants 
speak English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, 
and nothing is to be seen worthy of particular notice, 
excepting a nunnery and the church, both which may 
seem curious to those who are not familiar with Catholic 
countries ; though of inferior interest to those of Mon- 
treal and Quebec. The nuns possess a large tract of land, 
nearly in the centre of the town, which is surrounded by 
a high wall : and they devote their time to the care of 
the sick, and the education of girls. 

The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninterrupted. 
The city is distinguished at the distance of nine miles, by 
its thick mass of buildings, roofed with sheets of tin, and 
overtopped by church spires, shining with the same metal. 
Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted with orchards ; on 
the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the fortified island 
of St. Helen ; and on the left, that of the Nuns, and 
several smaller ones at a distance, through which are seen 
the sheets of white foam caused by the rapids. The 
shores are low and perfectly flat in every direction ; which, 
with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect of tire- 
some monotony and extension to the scene. At a great 
distance up, are seen Isle lieron and others. Uniformity 
will be found characteristic of almost the whole voyage 
to Quebec. 

The current of the river will appear extremely rapid, 
particularly near those parts where the surface is broken 
by rocks ; but the steam boats are supplied with engines 
comparatively powerful, and are able to effect the pas- 
sage with facility and in safety. An hour is generally 
spent in going, and from 1^ to 3 in returning. It is im- 
possible, however, for any boat to go through the current 
without being borne rapidly down in some places ; and 
there is a part of the river near the middle, where the 
water is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on the bot- 
tom, as the boats glide on above ihem. In returning, the 
boat sometimes passes between two rocks, near the rapids, 
that on the east being under water. Here the surface is 
much agitated, and sometimes throws the water on deck 
without any danger. 



192 THE NORTHERN 

A particular description of the various objects in Mon- 
treal and the vicinity, will be postponed for the present ; 
and it is necessary here, to mention only the more pro- 
minent objects which strike the eye on the approach. 

A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, 
belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is 
the Recolet church ; then the French Parish church, 
near which will hereafter be seen the five towers of the 
Great cathedral. The English Episcopal church has a 
tall pyramidal spire ; and that which rises farther to the 
right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours. 
From some places may be seen the top of Nelson's monu- 
ment, with several other remarkable objects, particularly 
the barracks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old 
city wall. 

MONTREAL. 

Inns. Masonic Hall,* at the north end of the city, with 
a piazza over the bank ; Goodenough's, St. Paul-street ; 
Mansion House, do. These are all large houses, and 
porters will be found on the shore belonging to each, who 
ivill convey the luggage, and show the way. 

The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger may 
be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the lowness, 
and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of stone or 
plastered to resemble it : but all this is in conformity with 
the fashion of the country ; and Montreal contains many 
fine buildings and other objects worthy of notice, together 
with a vicinity which in the warm season of the year is 
truly delightful. 

Those who remain but a short time in this city, may 
easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of curiosi- 



* The Masonic Hall b the most expensive hotel in Montreal. 
It is kept by Mr. Riasco, an Italian, and has a restaurant in the 
French fashion, where the stranger may select his dinner 
from a long bill of fare. The highest rate of board, including 
private parlour, &c. is 1/. 5s. per day. The main building ifj 
4 stories hiffh, and the two Avinss 3. 



TRAVELLER, 193 

ty ; and are recommended to take a walk through the two 
principal streets, and to notice the following buildings and 
places. 

At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the Barracks. 
Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French church of 
Eon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious 
buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those 
in France. The roofs are, however, generally covered 
with tin, which is not much used in other countries. 
This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond 
which begins the Quebec suburb. 

Masonic Hall, 
on the eastern side of the street. 

Theatre, 
adjoining the Masonic Hall. 

Market Place and Nelson's Monument, (Onthenght.) 

Then follows a double row of shops. On the east side 
are several, which show articles of Indian manufacture 
for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the 
nunneries, if it is intended to visit them. 

The Black Nuns' Garden, Convent, and Chapel, 

are on the west side of the street. The wall is very high. 
The porter at the gate will give admission and directions, 
but in French. Visiters are expected to purchase a few 
articles of nuns', or Indian manufacture. It is most 
agreeable to go in parties. 

The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church 

are close by : a short street leads to them, west. 

Passing about a quarter of a mile, by stores and shops, 
Goodenough's Hotel is on the west side, in a court 

yard — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings 

Tou in sight of the 



194 THE NORTHERN 

Gray Nuns' Convent. 

A large stone building, partly new, about 410 feet in 
length. 

Mansion House Hotel, St. Paul's-street, below an 
open square. 

Seminary.* 

College, t 

(The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore, 
nearly against here.) 



* The Seminary (La Seminaire) is an antique building-, 
and contains a Catholic library of about 6000 volumes ; 
but access to it is not very easily obtained. The College in 
this city was built by money supplied from the funds of this 
institution. 

t The College is a large bnildine of stone, three stories high, 
erected in 1»19 out of the funds ot the ** Seminary." It has 
a front of about loO feet, with wings projecting in front and 
rear, which make the whole length about 220 feet. It has a 
spacious yard on the south side, for a play ground, succeeded 
by a fine garden ; and a little brook passes in the rear, which 
■ is made very useful. In order to guard against fire, there is 
scarcely any wood used in the construction ; and large iron 
doors are hung in the passages in such a manner that by shut- 
ting them the whole building may be divided into three parts, 
each fire -proof. 

It contains about 300 students, who are divided into 8 classes, 
to each of which is devoted a year, with the exception of the 
two last, which occupy but 6 months apiece, so that the whole 
course of instruction is finished in 7 years. Many of the 
pupils, however, leave the institution before completing the 
course. 

The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the build- 
ing is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former 
of which are hung with maps and religious pictures, and the 
latter supplied with crosses and fonts. Every thing is very • 
plain in the furniture. The price of instruction is about eighty 
dollars per year, and some of the pupils have allowances made 
them ; particularly those designed for the Church, who assist in 
instruction by day, and study by night. There is a preparatory 
School connected with the College. One of the instnicter^ 
ulwavs oversees the bovs in theii" recrpatiorrs. 



TRAVELLER. 195 

Returning to the square, and entering another princi- 
pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume- 
rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving the 
Parish Church and the new Cathedral on the east. 



The Wesletan Chapel. 

The American Congregational, and the English 
Episcopal Churches are passed in this side of the town. 

The Court House 
is large, but old ; and in the rear of it is 

The Parade, 

a handsome piece of ground, with a walk, where the 
troops are drilled every morning, generally at 10 o'clock. 
There is commonly but a small number of soldiers in the 
city, during peace ; and in 1825, a single regiment 
garrisoned Montreal and the other posts in the neighbour- 
hood towards the United States. 

The British and Canadian School Society established 
schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 1822. 
In Sept. 1825, there had been admitted 1706 boys, and 
444 girls, most of whom were of the poorer class. It is 
supported by voluntary subscriptions. Nine hundred 
pounds, the remainder of a large sum collected in Eng- 
land, for the instruction of Indians not otherwise instruct- 
ed, is in the hands of this society, to be hereafter devoted 
to that object. 

There is a Lancasterian School of 300 or 400 scholars, 
where some of the most influential Canadians, Catholics, 
having become aware of the value of education, have 
placed themselves on the committee. There is an Epis- 
copal School on Bell's system. 

The priests in Canada have begun to educate in self 
defence. The schools provided for by government, are 
restricted to masters of the English church ; and a con- 
siderable number of school houses have been erected, but 
almost coafined to the townships. 



196 THE NORTHERN 

Island op St. Helen, or Grant's Island. 

This has recently been purchased by the British j^overn- 
ment, for a military position and depot. It is principally 
covered with trees ; but has a beautiful garden behind the 
quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round 
from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some 
remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky 
eminence over the arsenal, which is opposite the northern 
quarter of the town. This rock is about eleven feet 
higher than the most elevated parts of the city ; and the 
view from it is handsome, with a wild ravine just below. 

The arsenal and store houses form three buildings, with 
a narrow yard between them, about 125 feet in length. 
The batteries range on the river and town, and are fur- 
nished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c. 

The Mountain of Montreal 

offers an extensive and delightful view, and should by no 
means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to 
undertake the excursion. It is better calculated to afford 
an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than 
any other excursion which can be made. Yet it is recom- 
mended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride 
or two in different directions, after having visited this 
favourite spot. 

There are three ways of reaching the summit of the 
mountain : on foot, by an intricate route from the southern 
part of the city ; on horsthack, or in a catriage, to the 
ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also 
a foot path up the north end. A private road turns off 
from the southern road on the ridge, passing through a 
gate. 

It is intended to erect a handsome building on the sum- 
mit, and to clear away the trees ; and a subscription has 
been opened for the purpose. At present, the only good 
point of view is from a rock above McTavish's house, 
whence a very steep path leads directly down. 

The country spread out to view on arriving at this com- 
manding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to appear 
in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretches 



16 



J^Torih 




TRAVELLER. 197 

much farther than would be imagined ; for all the way to 
Quebec, the river's banks present the same appearance- 

The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- 
tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, 
which soon give place below to a smooth descent, decli- 
ning to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the ele- 
vation of which stands McTavish's house. A beautiful dis- 
play of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided by 
high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Below a 
moderate descent, which appears like an old bank of the 
riyer, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; and be- 
hind a succeeding one, of a similar description, are 
suburbs. 

East, on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain ; and 
over it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The 
plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is di- 
vided into innumerable fields, with scattering houses. 
In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's 
Island i and in a direction with the south end of it, the 
steeple of Bon-secour's church. North of this are the 
Quebec suburbs, beginning near the barracks, the water- 
works, and baths. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St. 
Lawrence suburbs. 

S. S. East, on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and 
nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distin- 
guishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, and 
Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3| 
miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, 
are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. Joseph's. 
Distant mountains. 

J^orth' Bout de I'IsIe, the extremity of Montreal Isl- 
and, Pointe aux Trembles, and the Village of Boucherville ; 
opposite which is Longueil, and further down, Varennes, 
with a two-steepled church. 

JV. Eastj the view is boundless, with a succession of 
cultivated fields, which in the distance become quite un- 
distinguishable. The same appearance, it will hereafter 
be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to Quebec. 

Other Excursions. 

To Lachine, 9 miles, or 3 leagues. The river road 
pleasantest ; givinira view of the Rapids, Nuns' and Heron 



19S THE NORTHERN 

Islands, the Indian village of Caughnawaga opposite, and 
crossing the Lachine Canal. At Lachine is a bouse kept 
by an American, who has a Canadian wife. Crystals of 
axenite (carb. lime) were found in excavating the canal. 
The pebbles along the shore are the fragments of granite, 
while the black, or deep purple rocks which form the 
channel are lime stone, lying in strata nearly horizontal. 

Road round the 'Iountain. The road near the 
north end of the mountain is ornamented with many 
beautiful seats, and there are also some extensive manu- 
factories. Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. 

To Point aux Trembles and Bout de VIsle. 

The population of Montreal, by a census taken in 1825, 
was nearly 24,000 ; and 4 or 500 greater than that of 
Quebec. 

The southern road to the Mountain, which crosses it 
at the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, 
leads through St. Joseph's suburbs, aud afterward passes 
a number of fine country seats. The most remarkable 
are those of Mr. McGillivray, and the late Mr. Gregory, 
members of the old North- West Company, which has 
lately been converted into the Hudson's Bay Company. 
It engrossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the 
lakes, and enriched many individuals, whose residences 
add materially to the appearance of the city and its envi- 
rons, •"fi 

The Friests* Farm is passed on the left, near the base 
of the mountain, and is a large tract of land, with an old 
building in the ancient European style, preserving many 
of the features of feudal days, with its projecting square 
towers, small windows, pointed roofs, and v/eather- beaten 
walls. The barns connected with it are very spacious, 
and seem capable of containing a large part of the pro- 
ducts of the farm. The only wonder seems to be what a 
few old men can do with such vast stores, as well as with 
their receipts from various other quarters. 

The whole island of Montreal is a Seigniory, in which 
the monks of Ricolet, as Seigniors, have the right of a 
tax on every farm, on every purchase and sale of real es- 
tate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the 
king of France on the first settlement of the place. Cir- 
<Mjm«taTices have conspired to reduce and destroy many 



TRAVELLER. 199 

of these privileges, so that the annual income of the 
priests, from this rich and valuable Seigniory, is very tri- 
vial, in comparison with its extent and fertility. 

The peculiar form of the land in the rear of the city, 
fits it in a remarkable manner for the beautiful display of 
fine houses and ornamental grounds. A long and regular 
bank extends for several miles on the right hand, that 
has every appearance of an old shore to the river, which 
may be supposed to have gradually changed and deepened 
its channel, leaving this and several other similar banks 
which rise behind each other in natural terraces, and add 
many varieties to the neighbouring country, which would 
be otherwise quite monotonous. 

There is a handsome view of the plain, city, and river, 
from the road on the mountain, which is improved ten- 
fold by turning off towards the north by a private path, 
and going half a mile to the Summit. This road has been 
hinted at before, and the description of the view already 
given. 

It is proposed to erect a building there for the accom- 
modation of visiters, and to improve the path so that it 
may be accessible for carriages ; and if this is performed, 
the pleasure of the excursion will be much increased. 

Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of 
Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil ; but 
Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as 
was intended, the former was taken prisoner by Gov. 
Carleton. after a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, 
and sent to England. Col. Warner afterwards erected 
batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove 
back the governor when he attempted to land on his way 
to relieve St. John'?. 



200 THE NORTHERN 

ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO NIAGARA. 

(See Index, " Routes.'') 

ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 
Road to Quebec. 

Notwithstanding the common prejudices against tra- 
velling by land in Canada, which are entertained by many 
persons not acquainted with the country, it is recommend- 
ed to those who may find it convenient, to make arrange- 
ments for performing a part of the journey in this man- 
ner, either going or returning. 

The country is indeed a dead level, but it is entirely re- 
duced to cultivation, thickly populated, and blessed with 
good roads. The way lies along the very margin of the 
St. Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted succession 
of dwellings, and supplied with many comfortable, and 
some good inns, which will be particularly mentioned. 

As the strength of the current makes the passage of 
the steam boats, up the river about 12 hours longer than 
that down, it would on this account be better to return 
by land ; and this course would certainly be recommend- 
ed, but for the greater difficulty of obtaining good car- 
riages in Quebec. It is to be hoped that regular coaches 
^v\\\ ere long be established to run between the two cities ; 
for at present, it is necessary to hire a caleche, or a stage 
coach, at a pretty high price. At Three Rivers, (Trois 
Rivieres,) 60 miles, the traveller may dismiss his carriage, 
and enter the steam boats, which regularly stop there up 
and down. 

Steam Boat to Quebec 

Leaving Montreal in the steam boat, you pass under 
the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas of 
the city being seen nearly in the following order, begin- 



TRAVELLER. 202 

}»ing at the south end : Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church, 
Black Nuns', Parish Church, Episcopal Church, Nelson's 
Monument, Bon-secour Church. Near the last, on the 
shore, is the Masonic Hotel, then the Barracks, Water- 
works, and Baths, the beginning of the Quebec suburbs, 
the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. Malson, with ter- 
raced gardens towards the river, &.c. A little below is 
Malson's Brewery, and Sir John Johnson's residence, (a 
grandson of Sir William Johnson, for whom see Battle of 
Lake George, &c.) The house is of brick, with a 
piazza. 

The Rapids of St. Mary are between the island and 
these last mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity 
that steam boats are sometimes obliged to be drawn up 
by cattle a little distance. 

LoNGUEiL, just below St. Helen's. 

LoNGUE PoiNTE, 6 milcs (2 leagues) from Montreal. 

Vercheres, on the east side. 

Varennes has a church with double spire. 

PoiNTE Aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is a 
nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for girls. 
There are two good inns in the place. 

Bout de L'Isle. Here is no village, but only a ferry. 

CoNTREC(EUR, ou the east. 

Repentignt, a pretty village. 

At this place it is recommended to the traveller by 
land, to make a deviation from the direct road along 
the river, if he finds it convenient, to see the delightful 
country between it and the town of Assomption. There 
is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses and 
trees. Return so as lo strike the road near St. Sulpice. 

St. Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. 

La Moraye. 

Berthier. Here is an excellent inn, kept by a man 
from the United States, though his wife is a Canadian. 

Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the Riviere 
du Loup, and has a very neat and comfortable inn, of 
the best Canadian stamp, and famous for many miles 
round. Many French customs are still preserved by the 
unmixed inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some of which 
are agreeable and interesting. At manv of the inns, the 
S2 



U02 THE NORTHERN 

traveller will receive the most kind and hospitable atten- 
tions, and will find great gratification in observing the 
handsome flower gardens, as well as the neat arrangement 
of the furniture. At this house is a handsome collection 
of green-house plants. 

There is very little variety to be discovered in the 
natural surface of the ground, but the journey through 
this region presents almost an unva*-ying scene of culti- 
vation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, 
there is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the 
road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields 
which stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; 
and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and 
clumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural 
sameness of the landscape. 

Navigation and Trade of the St. Lawrence, &c. 

Steam boats are of the utmost importance on this great 
river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience 
and expedition of travelling, and render most valuable as- 
sistance to commerce. In 1825, there were seven steam 
boats constantly employed between Montreal and Que- 
bec, most of them fitted to accommodate passengers, as 
well as to carry freight, and all provided with powerful 
engines. The Hercules, however, which is devoted ex- 
clusively to towing vessels, exceeds in power all the others, 
and may usually be met with in some part of the river, 
sometimes with three or four large brigs or schooners, 
fully laden, lashed on all sides of her, yet moving along 
with considerable velocity. The principal article of export 
from Canada is lumber, a great deal of which is carried to 
Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. 
These rafts have usually a great number of sails to hoist 
in fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the 
weather, so that they have a very singular appearance, 
and at a distance, look like a fleet of sail boats. 

The French Canadians, notwithstanding the common 
prejudices against them, appear, on acquaintance, to be 
an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, cheer- 
ful, and gay, and their backwardness in improvements iy 



TRAVELLER. 203 

attributable to the system under which they live. They 
are generally brought up in great ignorance, and they are 
taught to dislike and avoid not only the Protestant princi- 
ples, but Protestants themselves. The author has the 
word of one of their own priests for stating, that not 
more than one-sixth of the population are ever taught to 
read or write. In New-England, as is well known, the 
law provides for the instruction of everj child, without 
exception ; and every child is actually instructed. Books 
and newspapers, therefore, lose iheir effect as well as their 
value among these people. The British government have 
encouraged schools here, but until lately, almost without 
success. Among those regions where English and Scotch 
have settled, instruction is gaining ground ; and in Mon- 
treal, the public schools are rising in importance : but it is 
to be feared that the Catholic priests will long continue to 
oppose the extension of real knowledge, and that while 
they retain their influence, the character of the people will 
remain depressed. 

If the value of land were once secured by a good sub- 
stitute for the baronial tenures, and raised by the free ex- 
portation of grain ; if the inhabitants were taught to 
know, and set at liberty to think like men, the Canadians 
would not long be considered destitute of understanding 
or of ingenuity. As circumstances are, Canada will long 
be an agreeable country to travellers from " the States," 
because they will find so much reason to congratulate 
themselves on the superior favours with which Provi- 
dence has blessed them in the state of their society at 
home. 

In 1825, there were many signs of prosperity exhibited 
by the farmers between Montreal and Three Rivers, in 
the extension or erection of buildings. In that tract of 
country is usually to be seen about half an acre of Indian 
corn, which will furnish 18 or 20 bushels; and it is the 
custom not to build fences, the cattle being kept from the 
land, and fed on weeds until the crops are off. 

The houses are generally of one story, and are built of 
wood or stone, according to the nature of the country. 
Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and even 
of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed for the 
construction of barns only, which are often covered with 



204 THE NORTHERN 

thatch. The houses and barns are frequently composed 
of several small buildings, erected at different periods, 
according to the capacity or necessities of the proprie- 
tors. 

WILLIAM HENRY, OR SOREL, 

45 miles, or 15 leagues from Montreal. 

This town, though quite small, is one of the principal 
places between the two capitals. It is on the south side 
of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, or Riche- 
lieu, in a very sandy situation ; and contains nothing 
worthy of notice except a little old church, a palisadoed 
fort, and a neat little square, at the distance of a short 
walk, surrounded with several pretty white houses, a 
church, &c. a little in the New-England style. The 
fences are generally low, and afford the sight of gardens. 

The flowers which abound in the Canadian gardens are 
principally roses, carnations, sweet-williams, candidus, 
monthly roses, (blossoming only a part of the year.) 

As the steam boats usually stop here half an hour or 
more, there is time enough to go on shore. The popula- 
tion principally consists of disbanded soldiers, so that the 
dwellings are generally poor, and most of the people speak 
some dialect of English. The garrison contains only 30 
or 40 men in time of peace, and the commanding officer 
has a pretty residence opposite the town,* where the fields 
have a green and fertile appearance. 

The Government House stands about three-quarters of 
a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building, with 
barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving Sorel, 
and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant land begin- 
ning to have some elevation. 

On the opposite point. Gen. Montgomery erected bat- 
teries on taking the place, in 1776, and prepared rafts and 
floating batteries, which maintained an engagement with 
the ships in which Gov. Carleton attempted to escape to 
Quebec, and drove him back towards Montreal. He af- 
terwards passed them in an open boat at night ; but his 
vessels fell into the hands of the Americans. 

Berthier 13 on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, 



TRAVELLER. 205 

but out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some 
of the steam boats stop there instead of at Sorel. There is 
a ferry across. 

Lake St. Petkr. 

On entering this large tract of water, the shores at the 
opposite end appear like mere lines upon the horizon, the 
land being still so flat near the river as to seem hardly 
sufficient to prevent it from overflowing. A vessel at the 
opposite end appears like a mere speck, the length of the 
lake being 20 miles. 

Points du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the northern 
shore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond the 
lake. A ridge of high land continues on the north, fol- 
lowing the course of the river. 

Opposite Woodlands is Nicolet, 9 miles from Three 
Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and 
a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, 
founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. 

Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres,] Half loay. 

This is the largest town between Montreal and Quebec, 
and is 96 miles from the former, and S4 from the latter. 
The streets are generally straight, and regularly built, 
though narrow ; and the houses, although neat, are gene- 
rally only one or two stories high, with windows in the 
roofs, and being principally plastered, have rather a dark 
aspect, like those of Montreal. It contains shops of va- 
rious sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. 

The Nunnery is in the east part of the town, and has 
extensive grounds connected with it. 

The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pictures, 
of which the one on the right of the main altar is the best : 
Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church is in the south 
part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly the 
Court House and Jail, with the Nunnery, are the principal 
objects. 

While the American forces were on the retreat from 
Quebec in 1775, Gen. Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson down 
from Sorel to attack this place. He went down the right 



206 THE NORTHERN 

bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles from tbe town ; 
but being discovered and misled, he found Gen. Frazer 
drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent 
to cut off his retreat; and the battle, which immediately 
commenced, was short and disastrous to the assailants, 
who lost their commander, and many officers and soldiers, 
as prisoners, although they had few killed. 

Le BiGNEUx, a village on the south side of the river, 
known by its double-spired church. It ^'tands on a steep 
bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the commencement 
of the Richelieu Rapids. 

The river here winds between broken banks, and the 
number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more 
animating. A few blue, but not lofty mountains, are 
seen down the river. 



Rapids of Richelieu. 

The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs 
with great velocity, particularly the first three miles j but 
the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except near 
the shores, which are lined with innumerable loose round 
stones and rocks, extremely dangerous to vessels when 
they get among them. These rocks seem placed with 
much regularity, forming two ranges, and making the wa- 
ter appear as if it had a gradual swell from both sides to 
the middle of the river. Although the navigation of this 
part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution 
in other vessels, steam boats pass vsith security; yet, 
on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even 
they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in 
such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Ves- 
sels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for 
a change of tide, or for a steam boat to tow them up. 
The rapids extend about nine miles. 

St. Antoine, on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues) 
from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north-east 
is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a 
beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by cultivated 
fields, interrupted by occasional patches of wood land : 
on the side of the ridge, about midway from the water to 



TRAVELLER. 207 

the lop, passes the road. The south shore, on the con- 
trary, continues high and abrupt and nearly perpendicular, 
with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow. 

Point aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. 
The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz. 
about two miles, although it appears much narrower ; 
the depth is about five fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 
15 feet. Nothwithstanding the thickness of the popula- 
tion on the shores, the country is a wilderness only about 
four miles back, being comprehended in what is called the 
King's Hunting Ground, which extends from Three Rivers, 
40 or 50 miles below this place. 

Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a 
village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the ri- 
ver of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by 
the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- 
rence. 

Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty 
view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the 
north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at the 
distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beauti- 
ful land, and a range of fine mountains in the rear. 

Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the 
lower side, at its mouth 

Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi is 
seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the 
church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a consi- 
derable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and 
greater height, and present every variety of surface. 

Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought 
the final battle between the English and French in 1759, 
after the capture of Quebec by Gen. Wolfe, which com- 
pleted the conquest of Canada. At the village are the re- 
mains of the first church ever built in Canada. 

Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the 
place where Wolfe la;ided in the night, and up the preci- 
pitous bank he climbed with his troops, afterwards draw- 
ing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold afterwards took up 
his troops, in 1755. There is a remarkable rock projecting 
from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right 
of which is seen a road running up the hill, at the place 
ivhere the troops went up, when there was nothing but a 



208 THE NORTHERN 

foot path. The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of 
a large yellow house above the bank. 

Cape Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which terminates 
the high land on the north, and under the opposite side of 
which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet high ; and the for- 
tified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, and the 
citadel, which is included by them. The telegraph is 
raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings 
on the ridge are Marcllo towers, which serve as advanced 
works to the fortress. The opposite point is Point Levi 
and the mountains of St. •4fn«c and Tourmente appear 
many miles down the river. 

General Montgomery was killed just at the base of 
Cape Diamond, in attacking a block house on the shore, 
in 1775. 

QUEBEC. 

The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, an 
stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the Uppci 
Town soon begins to open to view above, though the prin- 
cipal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. 

The Castle of St. Louis, or the Governor's House, 
overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters, and 
makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the city 
wall, which encloses the (jppcrTown. 

But the current is too swift to allow much time for ob- 
servation before arriving at the wharf, where the traveller 
will find servants in waiting from the principal public 
houses in the city : these are all in the Upper Town, the 
ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and laborious, 
so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides. 

Inns. New Union Hotel, building in 1825, near the 
Esplanade. 

Mr. Lemoine's Boarding House. 

Malhiot's. 41 St. Johns-street. 

La Fontaine's. Opposite. 

The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains 
no decent public houses. After three or four turns, you 
begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and 
laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which i'^ 
rery massive, built, in the old European style, of solir' 




D.STliroo/L Sc. 



TUAVELLER. 209 

stone, very thick, with narrow passage ways for carriages 
and footmen, and a guard chamber above, with loop-holes 
for musketeers. On the right, after passing this gate, is a 
battery of heavy guns ; and the road in that direction, by 
the city wall, conducts to within a few steps of Mr. Le- 
moine's. On the contrary, to go to the other houses 
mentioned, it is necessary to follow the street which opens 
a little to the left, and leads into the midst of the city. 

The reason why good inns and boarding houses are so 
scarce in Quebec, is that during the greater part of the 
year there are no strangers here, except such as come 
from the neighbouring parts of country, and those not ge- 
nerally of the higher orders of society. During the warm 
months, therefore, when travellers can go with pleasure in 
steam boats, a great want of accommodations is some- 
times experienced, particularly within the last year or two: 
for the numbers of strangers resorting here at that time 
has astonishingly increased. These are almost all from 
the United States, and appear to be regarded as welcome 
visiters by the inhabitants, who are generally remarkable 
for their kindness and attention to strangers. 

The Military Band, attached to the regiment in gar- 
rison at this place, gives some fine music every day about 
sunset, and is well worthy of attention. The band con- 
sists of about thirteen bugiemen, and assembles in front of 
the barracks, which are in the old Jesuits' College, on the 
Market Square. 

A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the city, 
by the wall, is very delightful at morning or evening, as it 
commands a fine view : but Cape Diamond the finest of all. 

It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first 
pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont- 
morency, the village of Lorette &c., which will be more 
particularly spoken of hereafter ; and it will be found 
much better, on several accounts, to set out as early in the 
morning as possible. 

The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill, 
and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the 
space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded 
together, and the streets are as closely built as in the 
largest cities. Very few of the private houses present 
sinv thing remarkable, but there are manv public buildings 
T 



210 THE NORTHERN 

worthy of particular attention. Population in 1S25, 
about 22,000. 

The French Parish Church 

stands on one side of the public square, facing the bar- 
racks, with the seminary on one side. The church con- 
tains little that is remarkable, the whole interior ap- 
pearing rather ordinary, and the pictures having little to 
boast of; the principal of them are a Holy Family, an 
Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last 
Supper. 

The College, which stands a little to the right in 
coming out of the church, is a large stone building in 
which a considerable number of youth are educated by 
priests, and may be distinguished in the city by wearing 
the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to 
such institutions in Catholic countries. 

The Chapel of the Seminary, 

which stands a little left from the principal gate, contains 
the best collection of pictures, it is said, in all Canada: 
beginning on the right hand near the door, is a picture of 
the Virgin Mary attended by angels, &c. in the first chapel 
on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; 
on the right, the Baptism of the Ethiopian, John's Bap- 
tism, St. John ; on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving 
the keys, infant Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church 
wall, next is a good picture unknown, then the Ascen- 
sion, and Interment of the Saviour ; and over the high 
altar, a Holy Family, and Dove descending ; what appears 
to be some priest's dream ; on the left side, is the Descent 
of Tongues, and Angel visiting a saint in prison, good ; 
over the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in the 
Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; and in the 
church is an Evangelist, Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c. 
In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, are 
two skulls, with several human bones, placed against red 
silk, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, as 
holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept con- 
-stantly burning under that on the left hand. 



TRAVELLER. 211 

The Barracks 

are in a large stone building opposite the church, which 
was formerly the Jesuits' College : it is three and four 
stories high, forming an angle like an L, each side of 
which is about 200 feet long. Here are quartered the 
troops which garrison the city ; in time of peace they con- 
sist of two regiments of infantry, two companies of ar- 
tillery, and one of sappers and miners. 

Convents. 

There are two convents in Quebec ; one of them has 
about 40 Ursulines, who have a large convent and church 
near the prison, in the west part of the city, and keep a 
large school for girls. The other convent is lower down, 
and contains an hospital for disea^^es of the lighter kind ; 
while the most serious and severe are treated at the nun- 
nery near the St. Charles's River, about 1| miles above the 
town. These institutions, however, are not now open to 
visiters as they formerly were ; at least in 1S25 it was im- 
possible to gain access lo them. 

The Arsenal 

is near the palace gate, and contains about 100,000 stand 
of arms, arranged with great regularity. 

The Castle of St. Louis 

is a large building, but makes a less imposing appearance 
than when seen from the water. The street beyond com- 
mands a fine view ; and there are several beautiful ter- 
raced gardens formed on the steep side of the rock, al- 
most overhanging the buildings in the lower town. 

The fortifications of the oity on the land side are 
strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as before re- 
marked, they may be examined with interest by taking a 
walk in that direction, in the morning or evening. 

St. Louis's Gate is the highest of the city gates, and the 
street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to the 
famous Plains of Abraham, and the battle ground of Gen. 
Wolfe. 

The Esplanade Batt^iry 
lies between St. Louis and St. John's gates, and contains 



212 THE NORTHERN 

12 cannon and 4 mortars, with magazines built where 
they could not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground 
slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent of 
country to view, the fine fertile plain beyond St. Charles's 
River, the beautiful ridge of land beyond, with the vil- 
lages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others ; the St. Law- 
rence or, the right, with Point Levi, and the Isle of Or- 
leans, and the fine ranges of distant mountains. The 
mouth of the Montmorency can easily be discerned, on the 
left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the 
city ; that is the spot where the falls are to be seen, and 
the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful 
attack on the French General Dieskau, before the capture 
of the city. 

Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the 
plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even by an 
unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through 
the gate, the strength of the place will be better under- 
stood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other 
works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of 
stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in 
order to expose the approach to raking fires. In coming 
towards the gate from the country, at the first angle,the 
stranger is brought to face 8 cannon, placed in two rows, at 
the second angle 2, and at the third 2 ; at the fourth he 
sees 3 on the rig;ht and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth finds 
bimself in front of the gate, which has a gun on its 
top. The gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and 
the passage through it is a dark arched way, about 55 feet 
long ; it is closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so 
placed as not to face each other. Near the hospital is 
part of the old French wall, about 50 feet high, which con- 
tains two or three gentlemen's gardens. 

The Citadel, 

on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impregnable 
strength. It has been gradually progressing for a number 
of years, and in 1825 was not expected to be soon com- 
pleted. Admission may be usually obtained by applica- 
tion to the proper officers, and the necessary information 
gained at the hotels. The British government intended to 
devote 50001. per annum on these works ; but as the money 



TRAVELLER. 213 

is sometimes delayed, they are occasionally exposed to 
some interruptions. 

Most of the works are to be new, though some parts of 
the old have been made to serve. They will include 5 or 
6 acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend 
to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet above the St. Law- 
rence. There are to be four bastiono and one demi bastion, 
a ravelin, in advance of the western bastion, and other 
out-works. The walls are about 40 feet high, and built 
perpendicularly, of fine hewn stone ; the ditch being 
blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide. 
After making two angles on the west of the gate, the new 
wall joins the old. 

The Casemates. Entering the gate, and passing be- 
hind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is disco- 
vered following the wall, built of substantial brick work, 
and arched over head with such strength as to be bomb 
proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical 
name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and 
16 or 18 high, each to be lighted by a door and two small 
windows, looking inward, and pierced at the other side, 
with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop 
holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening 
with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from 
glancing in. In 1825, about 30 casemates had been com- 
pleted, and about 10 more were designed ; these are all 
towards the land side, the natural defence of the precipice 
over the water being sufficiently strong. The casemates 
will communicate with each other by folding doors, which 
may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb proofs, 
and will then furnish space for the whole garrison, (from 
3000 to 5000 men,) to parade at once. 

The Subterranean Passage leads from a little stair- 
case in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch, 
to a small out-work with two or three casemated rooms. 
The stairs are so narrow, as to admit only one person at a 
time ; and are constructed in a spiral form, and in the 
neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet 
long, has also two branches where guards might be placed 
to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of the 
garrison, are near the second bastion : and over the whole 
are to be mounted large cannon. 
T2 



i>i4 THE NORTHERN 

Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised 
during the iate war with the United States, is to be partly 
retained and converted into a Cavaliers' Battery. This, 
as well as the magazines, barracks, officers' quarters, &c. 
is within the works ; and at the corner next the river 
and town, is the old Cavaliers' Battery, a very heavy stone 
building, originally erected for the palace of the French 
governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge, Gen. 
Montgomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are 
six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on 
the top is one of the finest views that can be imagined : 
the broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and 
stretches off far to the right and left; the whole city of 
Quebec is crowded together almost beneath you, while 
Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen opposite, 
with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turning the eye in 
the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge of land, which 
begins many miles down the river on the northern side, 
and rises with a gentle swell from the shore, covered with 
the richest and most varied display of cultivation, offers 
a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile 
region, beautiful in form, divided into innumerable por- 
tions, cultivated by a dense and industrious population, 
and scattered with their clustered dwellings. On the left, 
appears, among other villages, that of Lorette, with the 
Montreal road for nine miles, almost lined with houses ; 
and on the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of 
the high ground, while a little beyond it, is the chasm into 
which the River Montmorency plunges, with its famous 
cataract, just before it joins the St, Lawrence ; all the 
horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to 
the north, and quite to the east, is broken by ranges of fine 
mountains, some of them near and bold, and in other 
placesj between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, 
three, four, or five in succession. In the south and south- 
west, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower 
range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be 
hazarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or 
the United States, can boast of a combination of objects, 
comparable in variety and magnificence to those here pre- 
sented to view. 
Cave Diamond derives its name from the beautiful lib 



TRAVELLER. 215 

tie rock-crystals, which are found in veins of white crys- 
tallized lime-stone, disseminated in the black lime-stone 
blasted out for the works. The quartz stones used in the 
walls are very fine, and are brought from three miles 
above the city. Of those prepared for corner stones of 
a bastion, near the old governor's house, are homogeneous 
masses of granular quartz, weighing 1^ or 2 tons, or even 
more. Some of the crystals are perfect and brilliant, 
though small. 

There is a long stair case of many steps, leading from this 
elevated position down to the Lower Town, by which, it 
was originally intended to draw up heavy articles. 

The Plains op Abraham. 

This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. 
Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, in capturing 
the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the distance 
of a mile, and should not be neglected. Indeed it would 
be found amply to repay the trouble, to make a much 
longer excursion in that direction, as the road is fine and 
the country interesting.* 



* After the battle of Montmorency, while the English fleet 
lay up the river, at one o'clock in the night of September 12th, 
1759, Gen. Wolfe quietly transported his troops from the fleet 
into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river. He in- 
tended to land two or three miles above Cape Diamond, and 
get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was drifted 
down so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering 
it, and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's Cove, 
just'above the city. The shore is bold and the rocks so high 
and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted along the 
precipices and the margin. This desperate enterprise how- 
ever did not discourage the leader or his troops ; but an hour 
before day break they had effected their landing, and com- 
menced the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the 
top of which was stationed a captain's guai-d. As fast as the 
English reached the summit they formed on the level plain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle 
was fought, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm 
stationed 1500 sharp shooters in front, but the British coolly 
,<tood their around till the French were within 40 yards, when 



210 THE NORTHERN 

Passing out at St.Louis*s Gate, you observe a number of 
handsome dwellings and gardens by the road sside, until 
you get some distance beyond the towers, when you turn 
into the Race Course on the left side of the road. Cor- 
poral M'Gowan, who lives on the ground, is considered a 
tolerable guide to the field, though he can say litile more 
than that Gen. Wolfe fell near the corner of the fenced 
field, off towards the riv^^r, and that the stone which 
formerly marked the spot, has now been removed. A lit- 
tle east of the place, is the remnant of abrea.st work, with 
several angles, marked out by bushes, and commanding a 
fine view. The British line was first formed across the 
plain, and ran near the house before mentioned, and the 
battle was fought principally on that ground. 

The Plains of Abraham are about a quarter of a mile in 
breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, 
with a gentle slope on each side, and so smooth as to 
offer an admirable field for the manoeuvring and display of 
troops. From the old breast-work, not only this ground 
is overlooked, but the shipping in Wolfe's Cove, the oppo- 
site shore, the river to the next turn, &c. The spot appears, 
indeed, inferior in elevation only to Cape Diamond and 
the middle tower. 

. Wolfe's Cove 

is about a mile further west, or half a mile beyond the 
large house seen near the river's bank. A branch of the 
road leads off" to it from the left, and descends to the 
shore by a passage cut out long since the time of Gen. 
Wolfe, as the cove is now a great deposite for lumber. 



they opened their fire, and soon afterwards terminated the en- 
gagement with their bayonets. The place where the greatest 
carnage was made, is near the river's bank, where the Eng- 
lish left was closely engaged with the French right. The 
action lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their 
mortal womids. Gen. Wolfe was shot in two or three places. 
When hardly any signs of life remained, news was brought 
that the day had declared for the British, *'Then," said he, 
^' I die content." 



TRAVELLER. 217 

The course which he followed up the bank, lay along 
the channel of a little brook, which leads off to the right, 
while the road goes straight on up the bank. 

Siege of Quebec in 1755. 

The scenes we have thus briefly recalled, are not the 
only ones of a military character, of which this com- 
manding and delightful plain has been the theatre. 

In 1775, soon after the commencement of the revolution, 
the Continental Congress prepared an expedition against 
Canada. It consisted of two divisions: one under Gen. 
Montgomery came down Lake Champlain and took St. 
John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three Rivers, and then proceeded 
down the St. Lawrence to this place. The other under 
Gen. Arnold, took the route through the wilderness of 
Msine for Quebec. 

Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, beside 3 of rifle- 
men, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. They 
proceeded up the Kenr'^.beck, but suffered so much from 
fatigue and scarcity tha many fell sick, and one division 
returned. The remainder, however, reached Point Levi 
on the 9th of November, and alarmed the city. The bat- 
teaux had been removed, and the strong wind detained 
them from crossing, after they had been supplied by the 
Canadians. The English frigate Lizard and several other 
vessels were also in the river. He at length, however, ef- 
fected a landing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching 
down the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and 
surrounded the city without effect. He then retired 20 
miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited for Gen. Mont* 
gomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec. 1st, with 
about 300 men. 

The two generals afterwards marched to Quebec, and 
planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired into the 
town with little effect. The small pox broke out, and the 
cold was severe ; but the town was attacked at four points 
at once, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery 
was killed, one detachment was taken, and Arnold retired 
three miles and entrenched himself. 



218 THE NORTHERN 



The Falls of Montmorency. 

Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and set 
out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, you 
will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. Pass 
through the Palace gate and a village divided from 
Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge over St. Charles's 
river, which forms a regular serpentine, and enter the 
beautiful cultivated plain beyond- The Convent and Hos- 
pital are seen about a mile on the left, and a handsome 
succession of fields is observed on both sides, divided by 
low palings. At the distance of a mile and a half the 
road passes several country houses, among which are re- 
markable Mr. Williams's, a Quebec merchant, Col. Ar- 
can's, &c. 

Riding down the coast, at a considerable elevation from 
the river, many fine views are presented of the opposite 
banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St. Anne 
and Tourmente dov/n the river. The dwellings are 
small, and the inhabitants poor and numerous. 

Beauport is a village principally composed of such 
buildings, stretching for a great distance along the road. 
Just before entering it, some large mills are seen on the 
right, standing on a stream which crosses the path, and 
beyond there is a natural pavement formed of the hori- 
zontal rock. There is a small church here, with three 
steeples, prettily situated on the river's bank, with a patch 
01 grass and trees around it ; but it contains nothing 
worthy of particular attention. 

On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to 
the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, smooth 
and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a bloody 
slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's army in 
1759, a short time previous to his battle on the Heights of 
Abraham. The position of the armies will be more easily 
understood on reaching the opposite side of the river : it 
is therefore sufficient to remark here, that the French 
lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as the remains of 
their entrenchments on the left still testify ; and that the 
British came up from the shore of the St. Lawrence ou 



TRAVELLER. 219 

the right, to attack two of their nearest batteries, before 
the second of which they were cut to pieces. 

Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, 
you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Mont- 
morency,- by a foot path, to see the falls from this side. 
As it is a difficult way, and the view more fine and unob- 
structed from the opposite side, it is hardly worth the 
trouble, unless you have plenty of time. You have to 
clamber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on the 
verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water 
is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the supply of Mr. 
Patterson'3 great Saw-mills, which are worthy of being 
Visited. 

It is better therefore to follow the road on foot, to cross 
the bridge, (where you pay a sous,) and entering the fields 
on the right, follow down the course of the river. There 
are several fine points of view, from which the falls ap- 
pear to great advantage ; but on account of the height 
and steepness of the banks, it is necessary to descend to- 
wards the St. Lawrence, and then return by the margin, 
to obtain a sight of them from below. 

On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of 
the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed view 
upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, with 
several lofty mountains below, the Isle of Orleans oppo- 
site, Quebec above, and the cataract close at hand, the 
British here took a strong position in July 1759 ; and 
from this place made a bold, but unsuccessful attempt 
against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains 
of their entrenchments are plainly visible under our feet ; 
and it is easy to comprehend the situation of the forces 
before the capture of Quebec, the circumstances which 
rendered the first battle so calamitous to the invading 
force, in the first battle, and those which favoured them 
in the second. The natural and artificial strength of the 
city combined, was enough, even in those days, to discou- 
rage any attempt against it from the water ; and m order 
to prevent an approach by land, the French occupied two 
strong positions at a distance above and below it : the for- 
mer at Sillery River, the other at the Montmorency. 
Wolfe here made a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and 
afterwards, by a still mure desperate blow, accomplished 



220 THE NORTHERN 

his wishes at the Plains of Abraham. For an account of 
the battle of Montmorency, we refer to the note.* 

The best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from the 
spur of the rock, which projects from the eastern shore ; 
but the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a coat 
of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. 

The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the 



* BATTLE OF MONTMORENCY. 

When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 
1759, he posted, his army on the island of Orleans, while the 
fleet blockaded the port. At the end of that month General 
Monckton was sent over to Point Levi, and established himself 
there, whence he was able to fire upon the city. Above the 
River Montmorency the landing was protected by the Marquis 
de Montcalm. Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at the mouth of 
the Montmorency during the night of July 31st, and erected a 
battery on the precipice north-east of the falls, the remains of 
which are to be seen. The French were entrenched along the 
opposite bank ; and on the 31st of July Gen. Wolfe sent his 
troops to ford the Montmorency below the falls, to storm their 
works. Some of Gen. Monckton's force from Point Levi in 
crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty ensued ; but the 
landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the right of 
the saw mills. They came however too late ; for the thirteen 
grenadier companies with 200 Americans, who had landed be- 
fore, refused to wait or to form, as had been intended in four 
columns, but marched tumultuously round the rock, and rushed 
up hill in a mass towards the French works, at some distance 
back from the old redoubt on the point, which had been de- 
serted. A warm fire however was directed against them, which 
cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to 
the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to 
form. The enterprise was then interrupted by a severe 
storm, and finally abandoned. 

The British army afterwards went up the river in the fleet, 
and the Marquis Bougainville was sent with 1500 men to watch 
their movements. With wonderful skill and good fortune, 
however, Gen. Wolfe succeeded in baflding their vigilance, as 
well as that of all the sentinels along the whole shore ; but the 
scene of the event with which these movements was connected 
lies at a distance from the place where we now are ; and it 
will be necessary to return to Quebec and visit the Plains or 
Abraham to retrace it with advantage. 



TRAVELLER. 221 

banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright- 
ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty 
rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and the 
perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E. 

At low water the Montmorency may be forded, with 
some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; 
but the tide rises fast and high. 

The Saw Mills built by Mr. Patterson are situated be- 
hind the western shore of the Montmorency. As before 
remarked, they are supplied with water by the trough seen 
on the other side. They are all contained in one large 
building, where the water enters at the third story in 
three channels, moving 6 gates in the second story, and 
5 in the first. These gates are collections of saws, con- 
taining 6 or S each, which cut up whole logs into planks 
or boards at once. 

The rafts of timber are stopped above the mill, taken 
apart, and thus floated down by a little canal, whence they 
are drawn up by machinery, several logs being bound to- 
gether by a chain, and laid before the saws. Vast quantities 
of sawn lumber are generally to be seen here on the 
wharves, ready for shipping. The mill contains 80 single 
saws, beside 5 circular ones, which perform their work 
with great rapidity. 

The Village of Lorette 

may be taken in the way returning from Montmorency, 
if there should be time enough remaining, (which is barely 
possible,) and the ride along the high ridge leading in that 
direction, will he found delightful. Lorette is an Indian 
village, with a Catholic church, and the stranger may fur- 
nish himself with moccasins, belts, pipes, &c. 

Route from (luebec to Boston. It is proposed by the state 
of M'.rine, lo open a road from Hallowell up the course of 
the Kennebeck River, lo the Canada line near Quebec. 
There is a communication kept up to some extent between 
the two places, and considerable numbers of cattle are 
driven every year that way ; but for a great distance 
it is necessary to pass through a wilderness, and in con- 
sequence of the want of inhabitants, there is no shelter 
^n b« found for man or beast, for several davs' iournev?, 
X 



222 THE rsOKTHEUrs 

The names and distances of the principal placei> on this 
wild and unfrequented routej are given below. When 
the proposed road shall have been opened, it will be found 
a convenient way to New-England, for those who do not 
wish to return by Montreal, and will become peopled and 
frequently travelled. This is the route by which Gen. 
Arnold approached Quebec in 1775. 

Quebec to the Chaudiere, or 

Riviere du Loup i*- " * ^^ 

Moose River ....If.... 37 97 

Forks of the Kennebeck 24 121 

Upper settlement on do 12 133 

Hallowell 67 200 

Boston 170 370 

Another route along the Penobscot is also to be surveyed 
by the authority of the state of Maine. 

Land Route from Q,uebec to Montreal. 
Upper Road. 
(The pleasanter.) 

1st post, Lorette, 16 miles. 

2d Jacques Cartier, 16 

3d Deschambeaux, 16 

4th St. Anne, 16 

5th Batiscamp, , .. 8 

6th Champlain, 9 

7th Aux Capes, S 

Sth Trois Rivieres, , 6 

Lower Road. 

1st post, Cape Rouge, 9 

2d St. Augustine, 9 

3d Pointe aux Trembles, 8 

4th Ecureil, 9 

5th Cape Sante, 9 

(Garneau's inn, called " the Three Sisters,^' 
is excellent.) 
Sth Deschambeaux, &c. . , Smiles- 



TRAVELLER. 223 

ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. 
Road from Quebec to Montreal. 

For remarks on the advantages of travelling by land on 
the St. Lawrence, compared with those offered by the 
steam boats, see page 200, recollecting that the passage 
in the latter is usually 12 houi's longer up the river than 
down. .(For the list of places, see the last page.) 

The country for some miles above Quebec is more 
varied in' its surface, than that below Montreal ; and ca- 
leches and gigs may be oljtained here as well as there. It 
is to be hoped that regular stage coaches will soon be 
established on that road. The foregoing is an enumera- 
tion of the villages and best inns. The former are ge- 
nerally nine miles apart, but the distances are particu- 
larized. 

Steam Boat. Engage an early passage to Montreal. 

The number of steam boats employed on the St. Law- 
rence, in 1825, was seven ; and for remarks on the navi- 
gation of the river, see page 202. 

Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly 
at the foot of which General Montgomerxj was killed in 
775. 

Wolfe's Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 207. 

For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see the 
map, and the notices of them in the Route from Montreal 
to Quebec. 

Rapids of Richelieu, page 206. 

Three Rivers, page 205. 

Lake St. Peters, 

William Henry or Sorel, page 204. 

Montreal, page 192. 

See the route from Montreal to Lake Ontario and JN'ia- 
gara. 

From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and the 
United States. 

Those who are returning by this route, may be advised 
to cross to Longueil instead of La Prairie, and go to St. 
John's by the way of Chambly. The distance is nearly 
the same, the passage of the river is reduced about two- 
thirds, the country is much finer and better cultivated, 



224 THE NORTIIEUN 

and the old castle or tower of Chambly is of some inter- 
est for its history. 

It will be necessary, however, to make particular ar-.j 
rangements for a carriage, and to take every prccautic 
to arrive at St. John's in season for the steam boat. 

From Montreal to Longueil Smiles, Longueil to Cham- 
bly 12, thence to St- John's 15. 

Chambly. 

This is a small village. Near the middle of it stands the;! 
old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an old] 
square building, perhaps ISO feet on each side, with bas- 
tions at the corners, but incapable of withstanding heavy 
cannon. 

This fort was taken by Majors Brown and Livingston, 
in 1755, who were sent out with a strong detachment by 
Gen. Montgomery, while he was besieging St. John's. 
The garrison, being very feeble, surrendered . 

St. John's: see page 188. 

In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here for^ 
a year and a half. 

Canals have been proposed from the Sorel River to the] 
St. Lawrence ; one from Pointe Le Mule, opposite Isle] 
aux Noix, over low fine country to the St. Lawrence, 26* 
miles, for £30,000. The difficult navigation which it,^ 
would avoid is considered half the voyage to Whitehall. 

Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. 

In 1825 a steam boat left St. John's Monday, Wednes- 
day, and Friday, at 2 P. M. §6. 
St. John's. 

Isle aux Noix 10 iniles. 

Rouse's Point 11 

Chazy 12 

Plattsburgh 15 

Port Kent 8 

Burlington* 10 

Charlotte, Essex 15 

Port Clinton 10 

* From this town there is a fine road to Boston. 



TRAVELLER. 225 

Dalliba's Works, > „ ., 

Chimney Point 12 

Ticonderoga 15 

Whitehall 25 

For the principal places on the lake, see the Index. 

On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much 
narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scotch farms 
are seen on the western shore. They are in the tonnship 
of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild than most of 
the surrounding scenes. 

Looking back on Ticonderoga from the south. Mount De- 
fiance appears at about nine miles distance, descending on 
the left to the Scotch farms, in the township of Putnam, 
which are principally cleared land. Beyond it is another 
mountain, sloping like it. Ticonderoga here appears to 
close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's Point on 
the left. 

At the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticonderoga 
in 1777, the following arrangements were made for the 
retreat. 

The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, park of artillery, 
stores, and provisions, embarked under Colonel Long, 
under strong convoy, in 200 batteaux and five armed gal- 
leys. The main army went via Castleton, with St. 
Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, and the 
general rendezvous was at Skeenesborough (Whitehall.) 
A house which took fire on Mount Independence attract- 
ed the attention of the British, who soon began the pur- 
suit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers and light troops, with 
Reidesel behind him, followed by land ; while Burgoyne 
cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood 
Creek. His gun boats and ships overtook the American 
flotilla, took two galleys, blcAv up three, and the Ameri- 
cans set fire to the rest and fled on to Fort Anne. 

The Four Channels. 

Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly con- 
tracts itself into four narrow passages, between two 
ranges of mountains, which in some places present per- 
pendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, appears 
almost entirelv orcupif d by a little meadow of the bright- 
X2 



226 THE NORTHERN 

est green, through which the channels wind with beautv 
ful serpentines. The scene is highly picturesque, the 
rocky points on both sides being so abrupt as to seem as 
if forcibly parted by an earthquake, or a very swift and 
powerful stream. Every distant object is entirely shut 
out, and the banks present a striking aspect of wildness 
and seclusion. 

Some distance beyond, where thex'reek enters a smaH 
tract of level ground, it passes between two remarkable 
rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, about 50 feet 
high, like great natural bastions erected to guard the 
straits. 

A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed, 
with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level 
ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern 
side, the tow path accompanies the bank. 

South Bay 

opens to the .south, and runs down five miles between 
high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to 
the east, communicating with it by a little channel some- 
times scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau took 
this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward, 
in 1755. 

Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On the 
eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural ice 
house, about four miles off. 

The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of 
a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a 
considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so re- 
gular as to seem a work of art, although probably made 
by the falling of a mass of the rock. 

Distant mountains open to the view, in front, as we 
proceed, with ranges of mllows on the shore. 

(A precipice on the east is a good mark of the approach 
to South Bay, in going up.) 

The Elbow is a narrow part of the cfeek, with two very 
short turns, through which the passage requires a very 
exact helm. 

East Bay 

strikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along 
a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill will be observed at 



TRAVELLER. 22? 

a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, 
and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a 
battery, and in the town a block house. Numerous boats 
and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as 
the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at the bridge, 
where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel. 

Inns. Rock's and Wing's. 

The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's 
right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Sa- 
ratoga; his centre was formed by Gen. Frazer; the 
Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the river of Castle- 
ton ; and the Hessians were at the head of East Bay. 

Roads. Stage coaches go south, on the arrival of the 
steam boat, ip two directions : one on each side of Wood 
Creek and the Hudson River. That on the west side is 
recommended to those who are going directly on to Alba- 
ny, as it passes along the route of the Champlain Canal, 
by the " Surrender Ground," and near the " Battle Ground 
of Bemis's Heights." Coaches also go to the Springs. 

Road to Boston, 178 m. 
through Walpole : See ''Roads.'' 

To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson^ 79 m. 

West Granville 11 miles. 

East Granville 3 

Hebron 9 

Salem 8 

Cambridge 16 

Pittstown 13 

Lansingburgh 10 

Troy 3 (see page 52) 

Albany 6 (see page 42) 

To Albany, on the west side of the Hudson^ 68 m. 

Fort Anne 12 

Fort Edward 9 

Here a Coach passes to Saratoga Springs. 

Fort Miller 8 

Schuylersville 6 



228 THE NORTHERN 

British Lines 7 (see page 128) 

Passing Bemis's Heights^ 

Stillwater 8 

Borough 3 



Waterford..- 8 



Mohawk Bridge 1 (see page 57) 

The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, 
which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its nar- 
rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This 
creek is famous in the histories of the operations in this 
region during the revolutionary and French wars; and after 
repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by which it 
was obstructed, it bore the expeditions against Canada, &c. 
which often passed by this route, from the days of Queen 
Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough; and there 
is little cultivation off the road. 

Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne,Wood Creek 
makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near* that there is 
but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry 
was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonderoga, in 1777, 
by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement took place, me- 
morials of which are occacionally found in the soil to 
this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quar- 
ter of a mile from the stage house, stood Fort Anne, in 
the revolution. 

The old fort of the same name, built many years pre- 
viously, and known in the French wars, was about half a 
mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little 
east of the road, where some remains of the oldentrench- 
iqcnts are still to be seen. 

The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two miles 
south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced 
about three-fourths of a mile, near the present road, to a 
wood. It was formed of logs, and found necessary to 
render the country passable with his cannon and baggage 
wagons. The labour necessary for its formation super- 
added to that of clearing Wood Creek of the obstructions 
which Gen, Schuyler had thrown into it after the retreat 
of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of 
the British army, on this part of the road — a delay which 
allowed the people time to resume their spirits, and the 
officers to lay plans, obtain resources, and prepare for the 



TRAVELLER. 229 

sanguinary scenes at Bemis's Heights and the surrender 
at Saratoga. 

French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a 
succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay, 
Lake George, &c. 

About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old 
tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated 

The Murder of Mjss McCrea. 

Miss McCrea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In 
the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to 
whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the 
English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was in- 
vested with a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's 
army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake, 
and while the British were approaching, he sent a party 
of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to 
him, that he might secure her safety. She was very un- 
willing to leave her father's house, and hesitated some 
time before she consented to his request. She at length, 
however, set out to join her lover, and proceeded with 
her savage conductors on the road towards Fort Anne. 
They had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped 
to drink at a spring which still flows by the way side ; 
and while here were met by another party of Indians des- 
patched to hasten them on. Those who came last, ima- 
gining that they had a right to undertake the convoy of 
the lady, as well as to receive the reward which might be 
expected on her safe arrival, attempted to take her under 
their charge ; but the others, being determined not to 
give her up alive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing 
near the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. 
Locks of her hair were borne to her lover, to prove that 
the Indians had performed what they considered their 
duty to their employer. 

This story rang through the country ; and it was re- 
ported that Gen Burgoyne encouraged or at least permit- 
ted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge ; 
and there appears no probability that he had the least 
knowledge of it before it happened. He, however, was 
justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, 
in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity 



230 THE NORTHERN 

he could never be sure of restraining, if ever so much in- 
clined to do it. With many persons, in all parts of the coun- 
try, the melancholy death of this unhappy young lady 
raised a lively sentiment of horror against their enemies, 
and no doubt animated many a soldier with a fresh spirit 
of resistance. 

Captain Jones, the unfortunate lover, is said to have 
led a heart-broken life for a few years, and at length to 
have fallen a victim to melancholy and self-reproach. 

Fort Edward. 

This village was built in the neighbourhood of a fort 
raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of this 
point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman, after 
Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had occasion to 
make honourable mention at Lake George. This spot was 
formerly called the First Carrying Place, being the point 
■where, in the expeditions against Canada, the troops, 
stores, &c. were landed and taken by land to Wood Creek, 
a distance of 12 miles, where they were again embarked. 

[Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, 

are worthy of particular attention^ and are seen to great 
advantage from some parts of the bank. The whole de- 
scent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. 
Fort Miller. 
The village stil! retains the name of a fort erected on 
the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work 
of insignificant size, situated on the bank of the river, and 
near 

Miller's Falls. 

The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a bro- 
ken channel. The falls were formerly considered impas- 
sable with safety, until General Putnam performed it while 
stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. 
The Great Dam. 

Above Fort Edward, a large and expensive dam has 
been built across the river, and a canal cut along the bank 
to open a passage for boats. The dam is 900 feet long.] 



TRAVELLEK. 23X 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 

To Travellers going Eastward from Jfew-York. 

It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling 
eastward to see the country, to determine on some plan 
for his journey before setting out. * The mail coach goes 



* The mail stage sets off for New-Haven every morning at 
8 o'clock, from Jaques's stage office, in Courtlandt-street, 
passing through Harlaem on Manhattan Island, West Chester, 
East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, and Rye, in the 
state of New- York, and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Nor- 
walk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, Milford, and Orange, in 
Connecticut- 

In Harlem, the road passes near the East River, and 
gives a view of Hurl Gate. 

Beyond Morrissania, the estate and mansion of the Hon. 
Gov. Morris is seen on the right : one of the finest for tasteful- 
' ness and extent in this part of the coxmtry. ( See Battle of 
White Plains, page 29. ) 

In the town of Horseneck, 33 miles from New- York, is a 
steep hill descending towards the north, down which General 
Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers 
and soldiers during the revolutionary war, when returning from 
a scout. He drove his horse hastily down the rocky hill side, 
a little east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so much 
distance as to elude his pursuers. 

West Chester, and the country about it, were at that pe- 
riod neutral ground ; and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made 
them the scene of his popular tale — "the Spy." 

In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a 
mile or two before reaching the village, is a low, level piece 
of groimd, on the right hand side of the road, which was for- 
merly an almost impenetrable swamp, and at an early period 
of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It was 
hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of In- 
dians, called Pequods, having fled from their country about 
New-London and Groton, after the destruction of their 
fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 1636, were either killed 
or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and 
extinguished their name as a nation. Much of the ground 
has been cleared in modern times ; and some reliques have 
been found to confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. 



^32 THE NORTHERN 

every morning to Connecticut, and onward ; but this is 
not the most agreeable route. Steam boats go from New- 
York to the following places on the northern shore of 
Long Island Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, Stratford, New- 
Haven, Connecticut River, (and up that to Hartford,) 
New-London, (and Norwich,) Newport, (and Provi- 
dence.) 

EAST RIVER. 

Leaving New- York in any of the East River steam 
boats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right, (now the 
third town for size in the state, and strictly a suburb of 
the capital.) 

The Navt Yard, just beyond. 

The Rail Road, for ships, is above, on the west side. 

The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a 
little beyond. 

At Hell Gate, numerous objects present themselves 
on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, 
is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a v/hite Block House on the 
hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the water ; 
and a number of handsome country houses along the 
green shore on the left. The surface is broken by seve- 
ral rocks, and by the agitation of the water, particularly 
at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little north of the 
fort, and the rapid current on the opposite shore known 
by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming from the 
north, the first view of New-York is here presented, be- 
tween the western shore and Blackwell's Island, with a 
shot tower on the right. 

New- Haven. 

This is decidedly one of the most beautiful tovrns in 
the United States. The soil is not very good, and the 



On the east side of Housatonnuc, or Stratford River, a mile 
or more above the bridge, was once a fort, built by the In- 
dians of the place, to secin*e themselves against the Mohawks, 
who had subjugated most of the country on the western side 
of Connecticut Rivf r before the arrival of the English. 



TRAVELLER. 233 

Situation is low ; the town (or rather city) is laid out in 
squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated 
ground in the neighbourhood renders the approach very- 
fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head 
of a spacious bay, with a light house on the eastern point, 
a small fort on the right shore, another on Prospect Hill, 
and two Bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles 
behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between 
them, which is Mount Carmel. The steam boats stop at 
the wharf, which is three-quarters of a mile long, or at 
the bridge ; and in either case, carriages will be found in 
waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which 
is more than a mile distant. 

On the shore, near the bridge, is a large building, in- 
tended for a steam boat hotel, but not open for visiters 
for want of encouragement. The streets of the town are 
regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a 
green, surrounded by rows of elms, with three churches 
and the State House in the middle, and the College build 
ings occupying the western side, presenting a scene pro- 
bably not equalled by any town of this size in the United 
States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and 
beauty of tlfb dwellings, the good society of the place, 
and the distinguished position it holds as a seat of learn- 
ing, render New-Haven the resort of great numbers of 
strangers during the travelling season, and the temporary 
residence of not a few. 

There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and 
a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies, with in^ 
structers. in every branch of useful and ornamental edu- 
cation. 

Yale College. This institution, however, is the 
principal object which will attract the attention of the 
stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at 
Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few 
years, permanently fixed in this town. The first building 
was of wood, and stood near the corner of College and 
Chapel streets. There are now four buildings for stu- 
dents, each containing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with a Philo- 
sophical chamber and apparatus, and a Lyceum, with re- 
citation rooms and the library. In the rear are the Col- 
lege Kitchen and Commons' Hall, in a small buildin£>', 
Y 



234 THE NORTHERN 

with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which i& 
the finest collection of the kind in the United States, 
lately purchased from Colonel Gibbs, of New- York. In 
another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where Pro- 
fessor Silliman delivers his lectures. The institution 
contained 373 scholars in 1825. 

Next north of the college is the house of President 
Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in the 
town. 

The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col- 
lege-street. 

The New Burting Ground is across the street from 
the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of 
land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great 
number of beautiful ornaments, of different designs. It 
is considered the most beautiful cemetery in this country. 

The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the 
green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are 
to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size, 
which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the re- 
gicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there is 
much doubt on the subject. (See Stiles' Jadges.) 

There are pleasant rides in various directions from 
New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of 
the country favourable. The two mountains command 
extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, 
the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of 
such enterprises. 

The Judges' Cave is on the summit of West Rock, 
about a mile north of the bluff; and the way to it leads 
near Beaver Pond, and Pine Rock, (on the south side of 
wbich is a small cave,) then between Pine and West 
Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path 
across a brook ; and a guide may usually be obtained at 
a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to 
the summit. 

The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large- 
rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. 
It is small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, 
like a column, on each hand. That on the right contain" 
this inscription, 

''Opposition to fyrnnfs U obedienxie to Goj3." 



TRAVELLER. 235 

to remind Ihe visiter that the place once afforded shelter 
to Goffe and Whalley, two of the judges of king Charles 
the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted them- 
selves for some time in this solitary place. They were 
supplied with food by a family which resided near the 
foot of the mountain, and a little boy was despatched for 
them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock,, 
without knowing what cause he was subserving. The 
hermits were visited one night by some wild animal, pro- 
bably a wolf or a catamount, whose eyes they saw staring 
in at their door, which so terrified them that they fled 
to their friendsj supposing it to have been a lion. 

The place commands an extensive view upon the coun- 
try below, with a large tract of Long Island and the 
Sound. 

The Manufactory op Muskets is 2 miles north of 
New-Haven, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at 
the foot of East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit- 
ney, the well-known inventer of the Cotton Jin. The 
machinery is carried by the water of a small river, and 
the houses of the overseers and workmen make a pretty 
appearance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all 
their parts, many of them for the arsenals of the United 
States. It is designed to make the arms so much alike, 
that the parts may be applied indifferently to all that pro- 
ceed from the same manufactory. It is not found possi- 
ble, however, to accomplish this object to the full extent 
desired. 



Road to Middletownt. 

Northford, 10 

Iturham, '• 8 

Middletown, 6 

(For a description of this beautiful town, see beyond.) 

Beyond New-Haven a few miles lies a cluster of 
Islands called the Thimbles, famous in the traditions o£ 
the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort 
of Captain Kidd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid 
gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed somewhere 
hereabouts. Within this labyrinth of islands and bead- 



236 THE NORTHERN 

lands is a little secluded bay or inlet, capable of con- 
taining only one vessel nt a time, whichbears the name 
of Kidd's Harbour. There is also his island, his chair, 
and his * punch bowl.' There are several houses along the 
shore, within a few miles of this place, which are resorted 
to during the warm season by a considerable number of 
visiters from the interior, f r the sake of bathing in the 
salt water, and eating lobsters, black fish, and oysters. 
In September and October, ducks may be found in great 
quantities near the shore, and black fish are caught in 
considerable numbers ; but the best fishing is further east, 
at New-London, Newport, &c. It is probable, that with- 
in a few years, more extensive accommodations will be 
foun ' at the places of resort along the coast, and that the 
number of visiters will be proportionately increased. 
The principal of them are Sachem's Head, Guilford, East 
Guilford. 

[As it is necessary in a work like this, we have under- 
taken to pursue some definite course, and to mention 
places and objects in the order in which they will proba- 
bly occur to most travellers. We shall here leave Long 
Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only 
refer the reader to the close of the book for an account of 
the coast beyond, and the following subjects and places : 
New-London, the Thames, Norwich, the Mohegans, the 
Pequods, Sassacus's Fort, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett 
shore, Newport, Providence, &c. See Index.] 

SAYBROOK. 

At this place was the first settlement made by Euro- 
peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest 
solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of the 
country on its banks, who had been despoiled of their 
possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. 
The River Indians, as our o'd histories usually d^nomi- 
nate the former, twice made application to the English at 
Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers upon their na- 
tive soil, offering to give them land enough, and to pay 
200 beaver skins annually for the benefit of their society. 
But the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and 
it was not until the year 1635, when the Dutch af New- 




Z>. SJliroo/v Sc.2>rT 



1 



^;^^ 



TRAVELLER. 237 

York showed a determination to seize upon the country, 
which they claimed as their own, that a small detachment 
of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare for 
opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at 
the mouth of the river. Their haste was soon justified 
by events : for immediately after their landing, a Dutch 
vessel entered, and proceeding up to Hartford, landed a 
body of men, who soon established themselves in a fort 
they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained from Pe- 
quod usurpers. 

The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant 
made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, 
by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his 
family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, 
upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the 
waves ; and the ground immediately behind it was after- 
wards occupied by the fields and habitations of the colo- 
nists. It was expected from the first, that the situation 
would render the place a great city ; and after the fear 
of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, 
which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out 
with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, 
except such parjts as %vere reserved for the erection of 
public buildings. Yale College was placed here for a 
time, and a great number of emigrants were once col- 
lected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this 
place. Some persons of high rank and importance were 
among them, and it is a well-authenticated fact, that Oli- 
ve) Cromwell had determined to embark in the enterprise, 
and was once on the very eve of quitting England for 
ever, when some unforeseen occurrence prevented him. 

The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented to 
a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of 
the river, have effectually prevented the expectations of 
the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; and no re- 
mains of their works can now be discovered, except in 
the rectangular form of the fields, and the cellars of some 
of their dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, the 
foundation stones of which have since been employed in 
building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest ex- 
cavations is said to have been the cellar of the old col- 
lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked 
Y 2 



238 THE NORTHERN 

Tvithin a short distance of the fort by the Pequods, but 
they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which 
leads from the main land. 



CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

The shores present a continued succession of hilly and 
picturesque country, with few interruptions of level land, 
from a little above Saybrook as far as Middletown. The 
roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the culti- 
vation of many mountainous tracts ; yet there are farms 
enough to give a considerable degree of softness to the 
scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, min- 
gling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the ha- 
bitations scattered along the river, is very agreeable, and 
often affords scenes highly picturesque and delightful. 

Essex, or Pettipaug, 

7 miles from Saybrook j 

is a small village, situated on the ascent and summit of 
a handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or 
two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position. 
Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides 
the river and gives it an unusual breadth. 

During the late war with Great Britain, this place was 
taken by the enemy, who came up the river in launches, 
and taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town 
for a few hours. 

Some distance above this place the channel lies so near 
the eastern shore, that the steam boat passes almost under 
the trees by which it is shaded. 

Joshua's Rock is on the same side of the river, a little 
below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have derived its 
name from a son of Uncas, Sachem of the Mohegans, (see 
jSTorwich,) who, according to a tradition current in the 
neighbourhood, being once closely pursued by enemies, 
threw himself from the top of the rock, and perished in 
the river' 



TRAVELLER. 2S9 

Warner's Ferry, iS miles from Saybrook. 
East Haddam. 

The landing place here is rocky, mountainous and wild, 
and a good specimen of a large portion of the town to 
which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine house built 
among the rocks above, which adds much to the appear- 
ance of the place. 

This region is famous for a kind of earthquakes and 
subterranean sounds, which were formerly common for 
a short distance round. They gave occasion to many 
superstitious reports, but have ceased within a few years. 
They were called Moodns J^oises, after the Indian name of 
the place. 

Large beryls are found in the neighbourhood, and many 
■ other minerals interesting to the scientific traveller. 

Haddam 

is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears 
like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending 
a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing 
ground, &c. while a range of commanding hills rise be- 
yond. 

HlGGENUM 

is one of the little landing places so numerous along the 
river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. 

Middle Haddam, 2 miles. 

This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a 
hill covered with orchards and house lots, and backed by- 
higher and wilder eminences. It is about 6 miles below 
Middletown. 

Looking down the river from a little above this place, a 
large and beautiful hill is seen, which affords the richest 
scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being en- 
tirely covered with fields and orchards. A large wooded 
eminence is a little higher up, and several high hills, al- 
most worthy of the name of mountains, are visible in 
the north. 



240 THE NORTHERN 



The Narrows. 



Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flowti 
between two lofty bills, which it has divided at some long 
past period, before which, there is every reason to believe, 
the country for a great distance above was covered by a 
lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, there is the 
appearance of an old channel, where the water probably 
ran, at a great height above its present level. 

The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern 
bank of the river, near two or three old houses. {See a 
little beyond.) 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern 
bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Sou- 
heag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the 
present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wethersfield. 
The large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong 
to Captain Part idge's Academy. 

MIDDLETOWN 

is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, 
where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, 
and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from 
many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake, 
with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This is a most 
agreeable residence for strangers, particularly for families, 
during the pleasant seasons of the year, and will no doubt 
be soon supplied with more numerous and extensive ac- 
commodations. 

The large hotel has recently been converted into a pri- 
vate boarding house, by Mr. Francis^ and is very well 
kept. Mrs. SwatheVs and Mr. Boardmmi's (in the same ' 
street,) are large inns. 

The Military and Scientific Academy of Capt. 
Partridge. 

This institution was removed hither in 1825, funds 
being contributed for the erection of the buildings, which 
consist of a principal one, 150 feet long, 50 broad, and 4 



TRAVELLER. 241 

stories high, with rooms for scholars ; a chapel with reci- 
tation rooms above, both of stone ; and an eating hall of 
brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza facing the parade. For 
the convenience of the friends of students, who may 
wish to take up their lodgings in the neighbourhood, the 
second story is partly designed for their use. A new 
college building is to be erected this year, of the same 
size with the first. 

The course of instruction resembles, in general, that 
pursued at West Point ; but it is not like that under the 
patronage of the United States. The scholars wear the 
dress of Cadets, and are regularly drilled to the use of 
small arms and cannon. The regulations of the school 
are on a military plan, sentinels are posted at the gates, 
and the scholars are rarely permitted to leave the yard. 

From the top of the Chapel is a delightful view of a 
large extent of country, highly varied by cultivation, as 
well as the natural form of its surface. Mount Tom is 
seen northward, and Indian hill, immediately west, de- 
rives its name, as is supposed, from its having been a 
watch post in ancient times. 

The Quarries of Freestone, 

on the opposite shore, have furnished a valuable building 
material for some years, and have been worked to a con- 
siderable extent. 

Manufactories. 

Cotton, Woollen, and a Rifle Manufactory, are near the 
bridge at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol 
Manufactory, is situated two or three miles west of the 
town ; besides several mills, &c. 

There are various pleasant rides in this neighbourhood, 
particularly to two picturesque Water Falls in Middlefield. 
In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove^ where the 
road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs, 
which, in the season, are covered with flowers. 

The Lead Mine 
i's about two miles below the town, on the south shore of 



24a THE NORTHERN 

the river, accessible only on foot or in a boat, where are 
several old shafts, which were sunk in the Revolutionary 
war, in a slate rock. The ore is sulphuret of lead, in 
veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and affording a few 
specimens of fluate of lime, and other minerals. 

The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, 
at the foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth working, 
at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach bloom 
of Cobalt may be picked up among the rubbish. Just 
southerly from it is a very pretty water fall, about thirty 
feet high. 

A number of German families live in the neighbourhood ; 
the descendants of miners, who came from Europe some 
years ago to work the mine. 

Upper Houses, 

a village of Middletown, 2 miles above. 

From a hill 1 mile further is a very pleasant view to- 
wards the south, presenting the river, with the meadow 
and hills, as well as Middletown and the fine high grounds 
in its rear. The small divisions of the soil and the den- 
sity of the population, as well as the fertility of the 
ground, and the frequency of school houses and churches, 
here show one of those interesting and beautiful scenes 
characteristic of Connecticut River, and which the travel- 
ler will find repeated all along its course far into New- 
Hampshire and Vermont. 

Rocky Hill, 5 miles, a parish of Wethersfield. About 
half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of 
a hill, which commands a rich prospect of many miles of 
the Connecticut Valley. V^ethersfield lies in front, and the 
variegated hills and plains around belong to numerous 
townsh'ips on both sides of the river, enclosed by ranges 
of distant high land, which direct the course of its chan- 
nel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge of Tal- 
cott mountain ; and the two blue peaks in the north are 
Mounts Tom and Holyoke, near Northampton, at the 
distatice of about 50 miles. 

W^ETHERSFiELD, 3 milcs from Hartford. This place 
hasa fine light soil, an extensive level, probably once the 
bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of the 



TRAVELLER. 243 

river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the culture 
of onions, vjrhich are exported in great quantities to va- 
rious parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. The 
labour of this culture is performed almost exclusively by 
the women and children ; and it is remarkable that the 
men of the lower class are generally as imprudent and 
idle, as their wives are industrious and economical. This 
is not said for the purpo 
hope of improving them. 

Wethersfield was one of the three earliest settlements 
made by white men in Connecticut : or rather it may 
strictly claipi the precedence of all, for although houses 
were first built here, as well as at Hartford and Windsor 
in 1635, three or four men came to this place the year pre- 
vious, and spent the winter. The English received their 
lands from the original river Indians, and acknowledged 
their right of soil, although this tract of the country was 
found by them in the power of the Pcquod nation, who had 
obtained it by force ; and they succeeded in re-establish- 
ing the former, for which object ihey had been invited 
and received with cordiality. Depredations were com- 
mitted on their settlements for the first few years ; but as 
they were done by the Pequods, the distinction of that 
nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. Mason, in 1636, put an 
end to them entirely, and this part of the river was never 
afterwards made the theatre of war. 

HARTFORD. 

Inns. Bennet's Coffee House, Morgan's, Ripley's. 

This i's the semi-capital of the state, and a place of 
considerable business, as well as one of the great points 
at which the principal roads concentrate. 

The Charter Oak. In the lower part of the town, in 
the street which runs east from the south church, is the 
ancient and respectable seat of the Wyllys family, which 
was among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made 
a conspicuous figure in the history of the state, as well as 
of the town, by supplying the Secretary's office for a long 
course of time. Col. George Wyllys, who left the office 
tov/ards the end of the last century, was elected to it no 
less than sixty-two yeai's in siireecsion by the freemen of 



244 THE NORTHERN 

Connecticut, and performed the duties, at every session 
during the whole time, both regular and adjourned. The 
house is a respectable old building, in a fine situation, 
with a garden behind it having a fish pond in the middle. 
The first house built on the spot stood a little north-east 
of the present one, as may be seen by the cellar, and was 
calculated for defence against the Indians, but was burnt 
down. The principal object of curiosity here is, however, 
the fine old oak, which stands on the street in front. It is 
said to have been a forest tree before the land was cleared, 
yet it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole in its 
trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir 
Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 16S7 ; and there 
it remained for some years. 

When the charter had been delivered up, and the offi- 
cers were assembled at the inn, which was in Main- 
street, opposite the middle church, they produced it in 
the evening upon a table in the front room ; and the 
weather being warm, th% windows were left open, a 
guard being stationed at the door- At some preconcerted 
signal, some persons in the street taking off their jackets,^ 
and winding them in their hands, threw them at the can- 
dles and extinguished them ; and on relighting them the 
charter was missing. This interesting document is still 
preserved in the office of the Secretary of the state. 

The Jisylum for the education c/ the DeaJ and Dumb is 
about a mile west of the town, on Tower Hill. It was the 
earliest institution of the kind in America, and is under 
the direction of a board of trustees, who publish annual 
reports of its condition. Mr Gallaudet, a genllepian who 
was sent to Europe to qualify himself for the purpose, is 
principal, and Mr. Le Clerc, a favourite pupil of the Abbe 
Sicard of Paris, occupies the next station. He is a man 
of superior talents although deaf and dumb. 

The principal building is large, ornamented with pilasters, 
and surrounded by a garden and pleasant grounds ; but 
some change is judged proper in its arrangements. The 
house of the superintendant is near by, and the whole en- 
joys a fine situation with a commanding prospect and a 
healthy neigbourhood. 

The stranger will receive uncommon gratification, from 
a visit to this benevolent institution on the davs appoint" 



TRAVELLER. 245 

ed for the admission of visiters. The deaf and dumb are 
generally remarkable for close observation, readiness of 
apprehension, an eager thirst for knowledge, and a very- 
retentive recollection ; and as all their instruction is com- 
municated through the sight, can be obtained only by the 
strictest attention, and the abstraction of the mind from 
every other subject, the appearance of a class absorbed 
in their lesson is calculated to produce feelings of an un- 
usual and highly interesting character. 

Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language of 
natural signs, by which he is able to communicate the 
most necessary ideas on first arriving at the Asylum. He 
is then taught the alphabet in use here, which is made by 
the fingers of one hand ; after which the names of visible 
objects are easily spelled, and the order of their letters 
committed to memory. Absent objects and abstract ideas 
are communicated by many ingenious devices, which it is 
impossible here to describe; and arbitrary signs are adopted 
to represent such as may require them. Definitions are 
very extensively resorted to ; and they are always of 
the most strictly logical character. Indeed the whole 
system is one of the most complete and beautiful of the 
kind ever formed on philosophical principles. 

The number of scholars is generally about 70. Some 
of them are supported by a fund belonging to the insti- 
tution, and others by the states of Massachusetts, New- 
Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in the city 
and state of New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and one has 
lately been provided for in Kentucky. 

The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the city, 
and makes a handsome appearance, being a stone building 
150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three 
stories, and the main building 4. It is capable of con- 
taining about 50 patients, and is warmed by flues. The 
grounds connected with the institution include about 17 
acres. 

Washington College is situated west of the main street, 
in the south part of the town. It is an Episcopal institu- 
tion, and has at present two stone buildings erected : one 
for the students, 150 feet long, 4 stories high, with 
accommodations for 96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has 
also rooms for recitation, the library, &c. The college 
Z 



246 THE NORTHERN 

bills are $52 50 per annum in all ; and the students 
board in private families at the rate of $1 50 per week. 

Remarks to the Traveller at Hartford. 

From Hartford there are stage coaches running in 
various directions : noi'thy one on each side of Con- 
necticut River ; north-east, to Boston ; east, to Provi- 
dence ; southj to New-Haven and New- York, (besides 
the steam boats to the latter place ;) west, to Litchfield* 
and Poughkeepsie ; and north-west, to Albany. 

The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, (20 
miles,) and Worcester, but is otherwise very uninterest- 
ing and quite hilly (See next page.) 

The traveller in New-England is advised to take the 
route up Connecticut River, which is the most fertile, 
wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to return 
by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the route 
we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary from it 
as he pleases. He will find such information as this little 
volume is able to afford him by referring to the index. 

The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Valley 
is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger has 
seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he will 
learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty 
of their cultivation degenerates for several hundred miles 
northward. The whole country is thickly populated : 
neat and beautiful villages being met with at invervals of 
a few miles ; and the general intelligence derived from 
universal education gives an elevated aspect to society. 
The accommodations for travellers are generally very 
comfortable, and sometimes uncommonly good and ele- 
gant ; the scenery is ever new^ and varying ; many places 
have traits of interest in their history ; and the commufii- 
cation is easy, from many points of the route, with the 
principal places on the east and west. Besides all this, 



* At the Foreign Mission School at Cornwall, Connecticut, 
there were, in 1825, 7 Sandwich Islanders, 3 Iroquois, 3 Choc- 
taws, 3 Ciiinese, 2 Senecas, 2 Cherokees, 2 Cliippewas, 2 
Osages, 1 Tuscarora, I Oneida, 1 Mohegan, 1 Narraganself. 
i Portusritcsc. I Jew. and 2 American?. Total. tJ2. 



TRAVELLER. 247 

the roads are peculiarly fine, for they generally run along 
the river's bank, which is almost without exception level 
and pleasant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the pur- 
pose. 

The western side of the river is generally to be pre- 
ferred ; but as there are good roads on both sides, and 
some villages and other objects worthy of equal notice 
on the eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to 
be met with every few miles, it will be agreeable occasion- 
ally to cross and recross. Those who travel along the 
course of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go up 
on one side and return on the other. This is the most di- 
rect route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New- 
Hampshire. Those who go to Boston will pass through 
Worcester. 

Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-Eng- 
land. The country around it is rich and variegated, and 
the dwellings have ati air of elegance Avhich does great 
credit to the taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. 
Brick is extensively used in building. The court house, 
bank, &c. stand on the principal street ; and east of it the 
county house and the building of the 

American Historical Society. 

This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, 
raany years a printer in this place, for the truly impor- 
tant purpose of preserving every thing relating to the his- 
tory, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a 
donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 8000 vo- 
lumes, with many files of newspapers ; and built at his own 
expense the handsome edifice in which it is deposited. 
Many interesting curiosities have also been collected 
here from all parts of the country, but the institution has 
not funds to support a keeper, and the cabinet has not 
(unless, perhaps, recently) been opened to the public. 
The building cost about $3000. It contains the following 
apartments: library, in the rear of the second story and 
cabinet in front j below are the keeper's room and two 
others. 

[From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles; East Brook- 
field, 7; Brookfield, 3; Ware Manufactories, 5; Bet- 
chertown, 10 ; Northampton, Ifi.] 



248 THE NORTHERN 

Route up Connecticut Riter. 

Leaving Hartford, 

The State Arsenal is seen on the right hand, a mile 
from the city j and many pleasant views are enjoyed. 

[East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, 
Imt the street, as well as that of East Windsor, next 
north of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road 
crosses Podunk River, by a small bridge, about four miles 
from Hartford, on the north bank of which, on the left 
hand, was once the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk 
Indians, who had their settlements on this winding stream, 
and some of their broken implements are occasionally 
found in the soil. During the life of Eliot, the Indian 
Apostle, he requested that the Sachems of this nation 
would meet him at Hartford, where he preached to them 
the doctrines of Christianity, and invited them to receive 
the salvation it offers to all mankind ; but, after a consul- 
tation, they haughtily rejected his proposition. The 
nation was so powerful, that Uncas, Sachem of the 
Mohegans, was once daunted by the show of their force, 
although he had marched to attack them with his army, 
and afterwards chose to intimidate them by the following 
stratagem : he sent one of his Indians to burn a Pequod 
wigwam, in the night, near the fort, who then fled, as he 
was directed, leaving some Mohawk arms on the ground. 
This made the Pequods believe that that nation had 
leagued with Uncas, according to an intimation he had 
before given, and they immediately sued for peace. 

[BisseFs tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In going to the 
ferry, the road passes the Eissel farm, one of the finest in 
the country.] 

Windsor. 

It has been mentioned before that this place was settled 
as early as 1635. A few months after the building of 
the fort, (probably a block house,) the Dutch garrison 
at Hartford made a secret march against it, expecting 
to take it by surprise ; but on arriving at the place they 
found reason to give up their enterprise, and returned 
without firing a gun. The country was formerly very 



TRAVELLER. 2i9 

populous in Indians, the six miles square of which the 
town was formed, and which extended on both sides of 
the river, containing ten separate sachemdoms, or petty 
Indian tribes. 

There is a school established in this town on the Fellen- 
berg plan, in which agriculture is taught both theoreti- 
cally and practically, a good farm adjoining it being open 
to the examination and experiments of the students. 

The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth 
stands on the east side of the street, above the town, nine 
miles from Hartford. It is distinguished by columns, and 
surrounded by trees. He was born in a house opposite. 
He was in Europe as minister for the United States to 
France. 

After turning a corner a little beyond this place, the 
new road runs north by a tavern, while the old one, across 
a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former is recom- 
mended, as it passes for several miles along the bank of 
Connecticut River. 

Warehouse Point is seen on the east side. Here 
vessels are built, and the place carries on a little trade. 



bUFFIELD 

is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the road, and 
has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its vicinity, which 
has been the resort of considerable company. The village 
street runs along the ridge of a long and beautiful hill, 
with neat houses and white fences on both sides, and the 
home lots sloping east and west towards the low ground. 
Some of the houses are la:rge and elegant. 

SuFFiELD Springs. About a mile south-west of the 
street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphurous qualities. 
A house has been built there about 20 years, which has ac^ 
commodations for 50 persons, with baths of different de- 
scriptions. The spring is in swampy land, and its quali- 
ties are considered valuable, particularly in cases of cuta- 
neous disorders. The place is pleasant, in the midst of 
a rich rural scene, with a pretty flower garden, &c. calcu- 
lated to render it an agreeable resort, which it will, no 
doubt, in due time become. 

Z2 



250 



THE NORTHERN 



If it is intended to stop for the night within a few 
miles, the best inn is the Columbian Hotel, at Springfield, 
on the east side of the river. To reach it in going north, 
turn off' to the right through the meadows, some time 
after passing Westfield River, which will lead directly to 
the Springfield bridge. This is substantially built, and 
well protected by a roof. 

Springfield. 

Columbian Hotel. 

This is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a high 
hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine buildings, 
the residences of some of the wealthier inhabitants, and 
the top occupied by the United States Arsenal. This es- 
tablishment occupies a large space of ground, and com- 
mands a fine view. The buildings containing the work 
shops for manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, barracks, 
&c. are surrounded by a high wall ; and the habitations 
of the workmen, seen in several neighbouring streets, are 
generally neat houses with small gardens. Some of the 
principal buildings within the walls were burnt about two 
years ago, but have since been rebuilt, viz. three build- 
ings, each 120 feet long, one of which is a storehouse of 
arms. Access may be obtained ; but it is unnecessary to 
give a particular description of the establishment, as it 
bears a general resemblance to most others of this kind in 
the country, although one of the largest size. The num- 
ber of workmen required, which is about 260, has a fa- 
vourable effect on the business and prosperity of the place. 
About 13000 muskets are made here annually, or 60 a 
day. There were manufactured here, in 1825, 15000 
muskets, 15000 screw drivers, 15000 wipers, 1500 ball 
screws, 1500 spring vices, and 437 arm chests. Expen- 
diture, $179,983. The manufactories on Mill River, a 
little south of the arsenal, are various and well worthy of 
observation, at least, in passing. A road that runs along 
the bank, passes a number of flour mills, &c. belong- 
ing to individuals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower 
Water Shops, connected with the arsenal. There are 
three dams of hewn stone, and the buildings, in plan and 
construction, are well calculated for service and durabiTi- 



TRAVELLEE. 251 

ly. The water shops contain in all 18 water wheels, 10 
trip hammers, 28 forges, 9 coal houses, and have connect*- 
ed with them several houses and stores. 

The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other 
trees ; and there are two very handsome churches. It 
was originally considered within the limits of Connecticut 
Colony, but at length incorporated with Massachusetts. 
A tribe of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but 
being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they as- 
sumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants who 
were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the town. 

In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked the 
armoury, at the head of a strong party of undisciplined 
men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the place, at- 
tempted to dissuade them from their attempt, and finally 
drove them off by firing twice. The first shot, over their 
heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the second drove off 
the remainder, who, being about 200 revolutionary sol- 
diers, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men. 
This was the first check the insurrection received, which 
was put down without much subsequent trouble. 

West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with large 
elms, and containing some handsome bouses. It is 26 
miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from North- 
ampton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow 
of a hill a little north of the town, near a church, iivhich 
overlooks the river and an extent of country on each side, 
with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. On Chicopee 
River are some large Cotton Manufactories. 

South Hadlet Falls. 

'''' The village and locks are on the east side of the river. 
The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, 
but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2i miles 
long on the east side of the river, cut through a slate 
rock for a considerable distance, and in some places 
very deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks 
near the tavern, and one above. The toll here is 90 cents. 
They catch shad below the falls, though the number has 
greatly diminished within a few years : now about 7000 
annually. There is a ferry here, which is safe, but th« 
water runs very swiftly. 



252 THE NORTHERN 

For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the ron 
runs along the bank of the river, showing: its banks, in 
many places, roughened with rocks. Its channel is in 
one place crossed by the dam, which turns the water into the 
South Hadley Canal. The river makes an abrupt turn 
some miles above, running between Mount Tom on the 
south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; and when the 
scene opens again, it discloses a charming and extensive 
plain, formed of the meadows on the river's bank, and 
evidently once the site of a large lake, when the water 
ivas restrained by the barrier between the mountains. 
This plain is one of the richest, and by far the most ex- 
tensive and beautiful on the river. 

NORTIIAMPTOV. 

This town is situated at the western side of the plain, 
a mile from the river, and is a favourite place of resort 
for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful of the 
New- England villages, and is surrounded by a charming 
country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which com- 
mands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular, 
but some of them shady and delightful in summer, being 
also ornamented with many neat houses. It is a place 
of considerable business ; and the soil makes valuable 
farms.* 



* Canal. — Mr. Kurd's estimate of the whole expense of the 
Hampshire and Hampden Canal is given as follows : 
Canal ...... $204,210 

Feeders - - - - - 44,856 

Cost of lands and contingent expenses 18,500 



Total expense - - - - {(^267,566 

The length of the canal is 29 1-2 miles; divided into 5C sec- 
tions of 168 rods each. It is now pretty well ascertained, that 
the stock will be taken up, and that the canal will be made. 

The structure of the country between this place and New- 
Haven is peculiarly favourable to the construction of a canal. 
The whole route of both canals, excepting a few miles near 
New-Haven, is on the bottom of that lake, which, at some re- 
mote period, extended from Northfield nearly to New-Haven. 



TRAVELLER. 253 

Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the 
town, where is the school of Messrs. Cogswell and Ban- 
croft, for the education of boys. The branches of learn- 
ing taught there are numerous, and there are instructors 
for the French, Spanish, and German languages. Great 
attention is paid to the hours of recreation as well as of 
study, and the pupils are rarely to be seen out of the pre- 
cincts of the school. The place itself is very pleasant : 
commanding fine air, fine scenes, and perfect retirement. 

On the eastern declivity of the hill stands the house of 
the Stoddard family, an ancestor of whom was formerly 
a man of great talei;c3 and influence in this part of the 
country. In King-street, towards the north-east from that 
spot, is standing the house in which President Edwards, 
Sen. lived. President Edwards, Jun. and Dr. Dwight were 
born, and David Brainerd died. It is very old and shaded 
by two elms. On the east side of the main street, just 
south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor 
Strong. 

The Lead Mine. 

In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from this 
place, is a lead mine, which will be regarded with interest 
by the curious and the scientific. A considerable part of 
the road is good, and the place is wild and rough. The 
following extract from the Journal of Science and the 
Arts, furnishes all necessary information on the subject. 

Southampton Lead Mine. 
This vein declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicu- 
lar ; is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses granite and 



— The whole region is alluvial — there are no primitive hills, 
no granite ridges, no quagmires, to cut through, and no expen- 
sive embankments will be necessary. The summit level is 
only 134 feet above the Connecticut, and but little more than 
200 feet above tide water. From New-Haven to Greenfield 
will cost less than one million of dollars — a canal from 
Boston to Greenfield, about the same distance, will cost three 
millions. The former will pass through a secondary and com- 
paratively level region — the latter must cross a primitive, 
ynountainous coimtrv. Eastern paper. 



254 THE NORTHERN ' 

other primitive rocks. It has been observed at intcrvaiL 
from Montgomery to Hatfield, a distance of 20 miles; i 
but it is very doubtful whether it continues, un interrupt- 1| 
cdly, the whole of that extent; indeed, from what I have i 
observed of other lead veins in the vicinity, I have some- 
times been disposed to question, Avhether the veins ob- 
served at many of these intervals, may not be totally dis- 
tinct from one another. In Southampton, eight miles 
south-west from Northampton, is the only spot where t 
this vein has been extensively wrought. In that place it I 
has been explored 30 or 40 rods in length, to the depth of ( 
40 or 50 feet ; and the galena, which is the principal ore, , 
has been found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a i 
foot in diameter. At the depth above mentioned, the ; 
water became so abundant that it was thought adviseable ) 
to abandon a perpendicular exploration, and to descend 1 
to the foot of a hill on the east, nearly 80 rods from the ; 
vein, and attempt a horizontal drift, or adit ; and ever 
since its commencement, seven or eight years ago, the ■ 
working of the vein has ceased. This drift is now car- ■ 
ried into the hill, on an exact level, nearly 60 rods, and i 
the workmen told me, that not less than ^20,000 had I 
been expended upon it. The rocks that have been pene- 
trated, reckoning from the mouth of the drift inwards, 
are geest, the red and gray slates of the coal formation, , 
with thin beds of coal, and mica slate, and granite alter- • 
nating. Probably the fundamental deposite of granite is 
now uncovered ; and the principal vein of galena cannot : 
be far distant. Several small branch veins of crystallized 
quartz and galena have been crossed, and several speci- 
mens of these, collected by Dr. Hunt, were very rich and 
beautiful ; the crystals of pure galena sometimes exhibit, 
on their faces, insulated crystals of honey coloured car- 
bonate of lime. The principal vein will be found not less, 
I should judge, than 150 feetbeloAV the surface ; and when 
that time comes, it is confidently expected, not only that 
the proprietors will be rewarded for the great expense 
they have incurred, but also, that many a rich specimen 
will be found to ornament the mineral cabinets of our 
country, and to vie in beauty with the lead ores of Eu- 
rope. 

The mouth of fhis drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and about 



tUAVELLER. 255 

.J icet above ihe surface of the water. The water is deep 
.Miough the whole length of it, to admit the passage of a 
loaded hoat. The person Avishing to explore this internal 
(anal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or beat heavily 
V. ith a sledge on the timbers that support the soil ; in 10 
or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle undulation of the 
V. ater, aqd soon after, a boat advancing with lighted lamps 
and a rower ; having seated himself on the bottom of 
this boat, and provided himself Avith an additional gar- 
ment, he is prepared for his subterranean expedition. As 
he enters the passage, he will for a moment experience, 
or imagine he experiences, a little difficulty of breathing. 
But he will soon become reconciled to his condition; and 
after passing about 100 feet in the excavation, for Avhich 
distance the soil is supported by timbers, he will find oc- 
I casionally more room, so that he can stand erect. If he 
looks back, after having advanced several hundred feet, 
the light at the entrance will appear diminished to the size 
of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, it be- 
comes invisible. About half way from the entrance to the 
end of the drift, he will pass a shaft, down which a small 
brook is turned, for the pur|)0se of aiding the ventilator. 
When he reaches the end of the drift, he finds himself to 
have penetrated nearly GO rods, chiefly into solid rock. 

The miners do not quit the drift when Ihey blast, but 
retire behind a breast work thrown up for the purpose. 
One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight oi- 
ten years without suffering iji his health. 

Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course 
visit this drift. Intelligent gentlemen, without profession- 
al views, and even ladies, not unfrequently enter this 
cavity. 

Mount Holtoke. 

The ascent of this mountain has lately become very 
fashionable, perhaps more so ihan any similar enterprise in 
this country, if we except that of the Catskill Mountains 
in New-York. The height is said to be 800 feet ; and 
there is a good carriage road the greater part of the way 
up, as well as a building of considerable size on the ^um . 



25(S THE NORTHERN 

mit, for the accommodation of visiters, who resort thithet' 
every season, usually in parties. 

There is a short road through the meadows, directly to 
Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the mountain, which is fur- 
nished with a good horse boat. But it may be found 
pleasanter to cross that at the upper end of the town, pass 
through Hadley Meadows, and down on the eastgrn bank. 
The path up turns off near a small old house, and another 
opposite the tavern near the ferry. After following the 
latter to its termination, you dismount, secure your horses 
to the trees, and walk up a rude stone staircase on th& 
right. Refreshments will be found at the house which 
occupies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, in 
such a manner as to command an uninterrupted view of 
the rich and varied landscape below. Those who wish to 
enjoy the luxury of seeing day break and the sun rise 
over such a scene, may find a shelter here for the night. 

South-east, the view is less interesting, and may there- 
fore be first examined. The country is undulating, and the 
soil generally poor ; yet several villages are discovered at 
a distance, particularly South Hadley, which lies imme- 
diately below. Southwardly is seen Connecticut River, 
retiring under the shade of Mount Tom, whitened below 
by the South Hadley Falls ; but Springfield is not seen. 
The river makes several turns ; and on the horizon are 
two very distant peaks, which are supposed to be East 
and West Rocks, at New-Haven, about 70 miles distant. 
North-east is seen Monadnoc Mountain, in New- 
Hampshire ; and the view towards the east is interrupted 
by the neighbouring peaks of Mount Holyoke. 

North, you look up the charming valley of the Con- 
necticut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and moun- 
tains, varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the 
richest coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages and 
innumerable farm houses. The river makes a beautiful 
serpentine course; from where it first appears at the foot 
of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby, until it 
reaches the village of Hadley, which lies in full view j ' 
and then taking a bold sweep to the west, and flowing 
41 miles, it returns to the end of that village, only a mile 
distant from where it first meets it. The Avhole peninsula 
^s rich and fertile, and covered with cultivated fields of 



TiiAVELLEK. 257 

ivheat, corji, grass, &c. without being disfigured by 
fences, according to the custom prevalent hereabouts ; and 
is the richest sight upon the river, particularly when 
viewed in connexion with the scene immediately below, 
where the river flows on, almost under our feet, and the 
western shore presents the extensive Northampton Mea- 
dows, a mile wide. Following the current with the eye, 
in the 

West-south-west, it forms a still more remarkable 
peninsula, although one of inferior size : the Hockanum 
Bend being a turn measuring 3^ miles in circuit, while the 
isthmus is only 46 rods across, or 150 yards. In the 
compass of this view, from the north to the west and 
south, numerous village spires are seen, with level fields, 
Orchards, and gardens, almost without number ; and the 
whole scene is so bounded with mountainous ridges, as to 
seem to justify the opinion of geologists, ivho say that it 
was once covered with an extensive lake, until the water 
forced a passage between Mounts Tom and Holyoke. 

Northampton is seen about west-north-west, with 
Round Hill ; and towards the right, the top of Saddle 
Mountain, in the distance. There are also others still 
further north, particularly Haystack and Bare Mountain. 

More than 30 church steeples may be counted here by 
taking advantage of different kinds of weather. 

In point of history, that part of the Connecticut Valley 
immediately under the eye, belongs to the third division 
of settlements, calling Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay 
the first ; Windsor, Hartford, Wethersfield, &c. the se- 
cond. Northampton, Hadley, and Hatfield, were settled 
in 1653, and remained the frontier posts in this direction 
till after Philip's war, during which they suffered severely 
from constant alarms, and the loss of inhabitants. The 
Indians who had sold the land on which the towns were 
built, had each a spot assigned them within a short dis- 
tance of the palisades, with which the new settlements 
were surrounded, and lived in peace and good faith until 
excited by Philip ; after which all the towns were at dif- 
ferent times attacked by them, and some of them re- 
peatedly. It may, perhaps, add to the interest of the 
visiter to Mount Holyoke, while looking down on the 
«cene of peace and fertility beneath them, to be told, 
A a 



258 THE NOUTHERIs 

that during tbe French ivars, on May 13th, 1704, the In- 
dians fell upon a little settlement at the foot of Mount 
Tom, and killed 20 persons, more than half of whom 
were children ; and that a tradition states, though with- 
out designating the precise time, that a captive woman 
was once brought to the top of the mountain where 
we stand, and scalped — such trials had our forefathers 
to endure who introduced civilization into this once 
savage country. 

Hadley was attacked by the Indians while the inha- 
bitants were at church, and was near falling into their 
hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, made his 
appearance, and by his active resistance, encouraged 
them to repel the enemy. It was not known at the time 
who he was, or whither he went ; but there is now little 
doubt that he was Goffe, one of king Charles's judges, 
who was secreted for a length of time in this town, and 
of whom we have already had occasion to speak at New- 
Haven. The remains of his coffin, it is believed, were 
discovered a few years since, in the cellar wall of a house 
near the present academy, which was formerly inhabited 
by one of his friends. 

The burning of Deerfield, we shall speak of on arriving 
at that town. 

Stage coaches run to Boston and Albany in a day ; and 
up and down the river three times a week. 

Hadley, 

3 miles. (See a few lines above.) 

Hatfield, 

1 mile, on the west side of the river. This town is much 
devoted to the wintering of cattle raised on the neighbour- 
ing hilly country. The grass is very fine, and the barns 
are large ; which, Avith the appearance of the houses, give 
the place an air of substantial agricultur.al wealth. The 
cattle are bought, stabled, and fatted. 

Amherst 

i* situated on elevated ground, 5 miles from Hadley; ant 
off the river, towards the north-east, 

The College contained, in 1825, 152 students, 



TRAVELLER. 25» 

The Sugar Loaf is an isolated bill of a conical form, 
rising in front as we proceed. A fine view is enjoyed 
from the summit, where has recently been erected a house 
for visiters. Deerfield lies north of it about 3 miles ; and 
the way by which we approach it, lies nearly along the old 
road which led thither through the wilderness, in 1675, 
when it was deserted by the settlers ; and Capt. Lothrop 
was despatched, with a body of SO soldiers and wagoners, 
to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is 
the small village of Bloody Brook, (improperly called 
Muddy Brook,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses 
the stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 
Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground ; 
and some traces of the road, which was formed of logs, 
are still to be seen, running through the fields without 
crossing at the bridge. The convoy halted at this place ; 
and the soldiers were generally engaged in gathering 
grapes from the vines which ran on the trees, having left 
their muskets on the ground, when the Indians fired upon 
them. Capt. Lothrop, who had often discussed the dif- 
ferent modes of fighting Indians, and was strongly 
biassed in favour of imitating their own mode of warfare, 
immediately gave orders that the men should disperse, 
and fire from behind the trees; but they in this way lost the 
opportunity of cutting their way through and making their 
escape, which they might have done by keeping in a close 
body ; and were all cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre 
was one of the most calamitous which ever occurred in 
New- England, taken into view with the small number of 
inhabitants at the time : as the company consisted of 
young men, from the principal families in the eastern 
towns. 

On the day following, Captain Moseley went up to bury 
the slain, and found the place still occupied by Indians j 
but he forced his way through them, and obliged them to 
abandon the ground. There is a stone now lying near 
the fence, west of the brook, which was brought there 
some years since for a monument, but not raised. 

That part of the meadow we pass through in approach- 
ing Deerfield was the scene of several skirmishes with the 
Indians at different times, as the place was a frontier for 
many years, although it was twice burnt and i\eserle(V. 



260 THR NORTHERN 



Deerfield. 



In 1704, -ivliich was the period of its last tlestruc^ 
tion, a large body of Indians, led on by a few French- 
men from Canada, came upon the town before day- 
light. It was winter, and the snow crust was strong 
enough to bear them -, they had secreted themselves on a 
hill north-west from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. 
The houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants 
made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada. 
One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north of 
the church, and the hole may still be seen in the door, 
which the Indians hacked with their tomahawks, and then 
iired through, as well as the marks of several bullets in the 
eastern room, one of which went through the neck of a 
woman and killed her. A young man and his bride leapt 
from a window of the chamber above ; and though the lat- 
ter was unable to walk, in consequence of spraining her 
ancle, the former fled, at her urgent request, and, meeting 
with some troops on his way, brought them up in time to 
drive off the Indians, but not to retake any of the captives. 

A house next this was valiantly defended by seven men ; 
and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, was taken, 
and he and his family carried to Canada. Most of the peo- 
ple were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became 
attached to the savage life, married a chief, and left child- 
ren. Mr. Williams, Missionary to the Indians at Green 
Bay, is one of her descendants. 

Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the rear 
of the house, which is supposed to present the same 
appearance as in old times, excepting that the kitchen, &c. 
have since been built, and the front and rear have been 
covered. 

There is an academy in this town, but it is not in a 
very flourishing condition. 

East from this place, are several spurs projecting 
from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for 
the protection of the Deerfieid Indians against the Mo- 
hawks. 

Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes on a 
road from Boston to Albany. The country west is highly 



TUAVELLEK. 261 

picturesque. Just south of the town, Deerfield river appears 
to have at some period formed a lake of some extent, 
with an outlet towards the egst, where its channel may be 
seen, with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks bored 
out by the rushing of the water. The channel now lies 
through a deep cut between two hills. 

Turner's Falls are on Connecticut River, two or three 
miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to leave the road 
to see them ; but they are of considerable height and beau- 
ty, and history has rendered the place memorable, from 
an important battle fought there towards the close of 
Philip's war. The way by which we approach is nearly 
over the same ground, where Capt. Turner marched, with 
his body of men, in the year 1676, when he went to at- 
tack a large body of Indians, assembled at an Indian 
fort, a quarter of a mile above the falls ; and by which he 
also returned, after a successful battle, pursued by his 
surviving enemies. 

Philip, having been driven from the sea coast and the 
neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the active 
operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. Wheeler', 
&c. retired with some of his followers to the Northfield 
Indians, who held a position on a sandy hill,on the north 
bank of the river. Here he was attacked in the night by 
the troops under Capt. Turner. The English left their 
horses on a hill, which descends to a brook emptying 
into the Connecticut below the falls ; and having mounted 
the opposite bank, proceeded near where the present road 
leads, and marched up the sandy hill. The place has a 
swamp on two sides, and the river on the fourth. It is, 
indeed, overtopped by neighbouring hills ; but cannon, of 
course, were out of the question in such a warfare. The In- 
dians had held a feast that night, as some of their captives 
afterwards reported, and were generally asleep, so that 
the attack of the white men gave them a panic, and they 
fled to their boats, which they launched in such haste, that 
many forgot their paddles, and were carried over the falls. 
The rest, however, rallied befere their enemies were 
out of their reach, and being joined by some from the 
island below the falls, pursued and harassed them about 
ten miles, to Deerfield. Bones are occasionally dug up 
near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of an old 
Aa2 



:^g« THE NURTHERN 

Musket, a few silver coins, &c. were discovered among tUe 
rocks. 

This was the last and most severe blow Philip received, 
before he returned to his native country in Rhode Island, 
where he soon after terminated his dangerous life and the 
war, which brought so many calamities upon New-Eng- 
land. 

The Canal. A dam of great height is built at the falls, 
to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles for 
boats and rafts. Some mills are also established on the 
river's bank. The fall is divided by two rude rocks, be- 
tween which the water rushes in separate cataracts ; and 
the scenery below is wild, and not a little imposing. 
There is, however, no inn nearer than Greenfield. 
Beunardston, 8 miles from Greenfield. 
Veunom. Within the limits of this township, which is 
t)je first in Vermont, was once fort Dummer, one of a chain 
efforts, built for the protection of the country against the 
Canadian Indians. The place for some years was known 
tin the river, by the name of Number One, being the first 
of four new townships. 

Passing through a pretty village, with several mills, 
after a few miles, we approach Brattleborough, south of 
which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a 
large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode of 
quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for transpor- 
tation. 

Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated 
on an elevated plain above the river, which, since the 
draining of the old lake jk this place, has made two or 
three concentric arches north of the town, as it has gra- 
dually lowered its channel to the present level. At the 
bridge, over a small stream, are several manufactories ; 
and in the village is a lar^e and comfortable stage house, 
whence coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, and 
south. 

Westminster. This is on a fine, extensive level; and 
on the high land, on the oppo.^ite side of the river, is 

Walpole. Connecticut River being the dividing line 
between the two adjacent states, Walpole is in Nev/- 
Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and the 
summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view of un ■ 



TKAVELLEK. 263 

usual extent and beauty. There is a spacious and well- 
kept inn at Walpole ; and stage coaches go hence to Bos- 
ton, &c. It will be found the best place to stop at between 
Brattleborough and Cbarlestown. 

Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, which 
contains 700 acres. The house of the proprietor enjoys 
a fine situation on a ridge rising from the meadow, near 
where stood the fort erected by Col. Bellows, when, 
about the middle of the last century, the place was occu- 
pied and a settlement begun under the name of Township 
No. 3. 

The changes which have taken place in the channel of 
the river, in the course of ages, are very manifest in pass- 
ing along this part of its course, particularly by the west- 
ern bank ; in one place, which is now perhaps 100 feet 
above the present level of the water, the current appears 
once to have flowed, and to have formed the cataract;, 
which has now retired a mile or more to the north. 

Bellows Falls. The height of this fall is inconside- 
rable, but it is on the whole a striking object ; surrounded 
by rocky banks, and having an abrupt mountain on the 
eastern side. The place has also been much ornamented 
by art ; for, besides the village, with its neat white houses 
and handsome church, a canal has been dug round the 
falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of 
the mountain decorated with a handsome country seat. 

The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray gra- 
nite, but are much cut by the force of the current. In 
some places holes have been bored into them perpendi- 
cularly, two or three feet in diameter, and 12 or even 18 
feet deep. Tbis is done by the motion given to loose 
stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual en- 
largement of the bore sometimes breaks off great masses 
of the rock. These falls were once the favourite resort 
of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just be- 
low the bridge, are some remains of their rude attempts 
at sculpture, which represent the form of human faces ; 
and from one on the end of the stone, which appears to 
have suffered less from the attrition of the floods, it would 
seem as if they might once have been more finished spe- 
cimens of sculpture than they now appear, as that pre- 
sents considerable prominency and beauty of execution. 



2U4 THE INOKTHERN 

The Hunt Farm is about 5 miles from the falls, and 
is a large and valuable estate, the meadows being rich and 
beautiful in the extreme. The house and other buildings 
are large ; but the establishment is not now conducted on 
such a plan as would gratify an agriculturist. 

Charlestown. This is one of the prettiest little villages 
in New-England ; having a wide street, partly shaded with 
trees, and lined with neat houses, many of which speak 
the taste, as well as the easy circumstances of their pro- 
prietors. 

This was called township No. 4. The fort built for the 
defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently rising 
ground a little south of the church, where the street runs : 
but not a vestige of it is to be discovered. It was most 
gallantly defended by Capt. Stevens, in 1747, against a 
large number of French and Indians : although repeatedly 
called upon to surrender, the garrison persisted in the de- 
fence, digging into the ground to shelter themselves from 
the enemy's fire, and, after several days, succeeded in 
driving them away. Capt. S. received a sword for his 
bravery. 

Jarvis's Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side 
of the river, is very extensivCj and contains a number of 
large buildings for dwellings, barns, stables, &c. princi- 
pally of brick. The land is generally fenced with the 
roots of pine trees, dragged from the ground, by which, 
the soil is rendered fit for immediate cultivation, and un- 
incumbered. The proprietor of this farm is also the pos- 
sessor of a large part of the township beside, and is very 
wealthy. 

The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. The 
hills approach the river very nearly, and several views are 
caught between them, of the mountain behind Windsor, 
which is about 2000 feet in height, and divided into three 
peaks, whence, it is said, it derived the name of Ascut- 
ney, which, in the Indian language, means Three Brotherso 

WINDSOR 

is a fine and flourishing town, in a very picturesque situa- 
tion, particularly when viewed from the opposite side of 
the river ; and contains a good stage house, kept by Pettes. 



TRAVELLER. M5 

a number of stores, some elegant houses, two or three 
handsome churches, and the State Prison. 

This latter building is of granite, on the hill in the 
western part of the town. It is planned after the old and 
ill-devised system, but has one thing in its construction 
worthy of imitation : the stones are secured against remo- 
val, by having six pound cannon shot placed between 
them, holes being cut into the stones to receive them. 

Mount Ascutney. A great part of the way up this 
mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be 
richly rewarded for the labour of the ascent. From the 
nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed, expect to be- 
hold a scene like that from Mount Holyoke ; but there is a 
great deal that is fine in the appearance of the surround- 
ing country, rough, and interspersed with villages and 
cultivated tracts, with the Connecticut winding through 
it. There is a house for the convenience and refresh- 
ment of visiters on this mountain also, and the number 
who ascend it annually is already considerable. 

The Gulf Road. 

Those who are going westward from this part of the 
river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road to Burlington, 
on Lake Champlain, to which a stage coach runs. Al- 
though the route is through the chain of the Green Moun- 
tains, the way is remarkably smooth and easy, following the 
courses of the White and Onion Rivers, which have cut deep 
channels through the rocks. You have, however, first to 
go 16 miles along the western bank of the Connecticut to 

White River. Here great quantities of lumber are 
brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the 
Connecticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth 
College, at Hanover, is 5 miles north, and those who are 
going to the White Mountains, will of course pursue that 
route; (seep. 269 ;) but the following deviation is made for 
those who are going to Lake Champlain. 

The road up the White River lies along the north bank, 
and passes through several beautiful and flourishing vil- 
lages. The valley, though narrow, is formed of the rich- 
est soil, and wears the same aspect, in form, fertility, and 
population, with the meadows of the Connecticut. This 
was the course formerly chosen bv the Indians of thfi 



266 THE NORTHERN 

north in their commerce with those on the borders of 
that river, before the arrival of Europeans ; and, with the 
exception of a short portage, between the White and 
Onion Rivers, they brought all their furs from Canada, &c. 
by water. During the Indian and French wars, this route 
was frequently used for more hostile purposes ; and cap- 
tives were taken from these settlements so late as the 
Revolutionary war. The scenery is interesting and various 
all along the route. 

RoYALTON, a pretty village. 

Randolph 
is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Vermont, 
and a stage coach likeAvise passes that way. 

Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable passage 
from the east, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain, 
where a branch of White River flows along by the road 
in a gentle current, quite inadequate in its present condi- 
tion to such effects as it has produced at some former pe- 
riod, in parting this enormous barrier. It was not, however, 
by the gradual action of a diminutive stream like this, 
even when increased by the annual floods, that such 
changes were made ; but by the pressure of a lake confined 
among the mountains, which here first found a channel. 

The Gulf road extends 6 miles, and the ground is so 
level that it has been proposed to make it the course of a 
canal. On the height of land is a pond, from which 
flows a stream, into the valley. Part of it joins the 
White River, and part the Onion River. 

MONTPELIER 

is the capital of Vermont, and a very pretty town. It 
contains the State House, a Court House, an Academy, 
and other public buildings.* 

* History of the State. — The first discovery of Vermont 
was made in 1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after estiublish- 
ing a colony at Quebec, proceeding up the Rivers St. Lawrence 
and Sorel, explored and gave his own name to the lake which 
washes the western part of the state. This early discovery 
of the interior of North America was attended with no Euro- 
pean settlement imtil 1724, when the government of Massa- 
chusetts erected Fort Dummer. in the town of Brattleborousfh, 



TRAVELLER. 267 

From Moutpelier to Burlington, the road pursues the 
course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, and af- 
fords a succession of hilly and mountainous scenery, 

on Connecticut River. The first settlement in the western 
part of the state was commenced by the French in 1731, in 
the town of Addison, and at the same time they erected a fort 
at Crown Point. The government of New-Hampshire began 
to make grants of townships within the present limits of Ver- 
mont in 1749, at which time the settlement of Bennington was 
commenced, and at the same time a violent controversy ensued 
between the New-Hampshire grants and the province of New- 
York, which continued until 1764, when the jurisdiction of the 
former was declared by the King and council to extend to the 
western boimdaries of New-Hampshire. Owing to the war 
between Great Britain and France and their Indian allies, the 
progress of the state to a settlement and population was ex- 
tremely slow ; but by the surrender of Canada to the power of 
Great Britain in 1760, the settlement of the state progressed 
rapidly. One hundred and thirty-eight towns which had been 
granted by the Governor of New-Hampshire for thirteen years, 
ending with 1764, were declared void by the government of 
New-York, and the settlers were called upon to siu-render their 
charters and purchase new titles Upon this investigation, the 
controversy between the New-Hampshire grants and New- York 
was renewed, which continued for twenty-six years. In 1778, 
several of the towns belonging to the state of New-Hampshii-e 
were desirous of uniting ^vith Vermont, which occasioned a 
severe controversy and threatened a severance of these grants 
between New-Hampshire and New-York. This diffaculty 
continued until 1781. Massachusetts at this period laid a 
claim also to the southern part of these grants, but without 
any success. The internal affairs of Vermont were still very 
fluctuating, without any regularly organized government : she 
was controlled by the arbitrary measures of the Council of 
Safety, and that from the commencement of the revolutionary- 
war until she declared herself a free and independent state. 
This was done by a general convention of Delegates from 
both sides of the mountain, holden at Westminster in 1777. 
The first convention of the state met at Dorset in 1776, and 
the first constitution was adopted by a convention assembled 
at Windsor in July, 1777, but the organization of the govern- 
ment did not take place until March, 1778. 

Their first warlike enterprise took place under the command 
of Col. Ethan Allen, who surprised and caj>tured a British 
*'f>rt at Ticonderoea. without the loss of a man. On the samr 



263 IHE NOirrHERN 

such as is characteristic of the state. The river is in 
many places smooth and gentle, though occasionally in* 
terrupted by falls and rapids. The Indians navigated it 
in their canoes for many aiiles ; and when they found the 
channel obstructed, carried them on their shoulders 
through the mountains, to the White River, and thus pro- 
ceeded to the Connecticut. This route was used by the 
Indians in their trade, when the English first knew 
the Connecticut ; and during the French wars the savages 
frequently resorted to it in their hostile incursions, as 
one of the principal passages to New-England. Even 
as late as the Revolutionary war, a party came from 
Canada, and burned several houses in the settlements in 
this neighbourhood. [For a proposed canal, see page 273.] 

On the road from Montpelier are two remarkable 
Water Falls in the Onion River. They are so near the 
road that they will be heard in passing, and seen by taking 
u few steps. The Upper Fall is in the midst of a wild 
scene, ihe water pouring over broken rocks, between two 
high and perpendicular banks. The Lower Fall is of apecu» 
liar character : the stream is broken into foam, and rushes 
by with great rapidity ; yet the channel is obstructed in 
such a manner by several large rocks, that the stream is 
turned alternately from side to side, being dashed with 
violence against their bases, and thus forced into an un- 
natural zig-iag course. 

A few miles before reaching IJurlington, the road leaves 
the river, which bends away further towards the north. 
At its mouth is an extensive and fertile meadow, which 
may bear a comparison with those on the Connecticut. 



day Crown Point was captured by the troops, under the com- 
mand of Col. Seth Warner. An attack was made upon Mon- 
treal, in which Col. Allen was taken prisoner and sent to 
England. During the same year, 1775^ Col. Warner, with 
300 Vermont soldiers, attacked and defeated General Carlton 
with 800 regulars and Canadians. On the 13th of August, 
1777, the New-Hampshke and Vermont militia, under the 
command of Gen. Stark, defeated the British troops under the 
command of Colonel Baum. 

The difficulties between Vermont and New-York were ami- 
cably settled in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into 
the confederacy of the states, — (From a Vermpnt paper. \ 



TRAVELLER. 26t> 



BURLINGTON 

is a large and beautiful town, and enjoys one of the finest 
and most advantageous situations on Lake Champlain. 
The ridge of the hill, on the declivity of which it is built, 
commands an extensive view upon the lake, with the 
numerous mountains which border its western shores, 
and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Im- 
mediately below is the bay, bounded by high land ; and 
the elegant dwellings and beautiful gardens, of the 
wealther inhabitants, ornament the foreground. 

The Steam Boats stop here on their way to Whitehall 
and St John's (the route to Montreal ;) and the traveller 
is referred to pages 185 and 224 for the objects on the lake 
in those directions, [Returning to Connecticut River.] 

HANOVER. 

This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable 
as the seat of 



DARTMOUTH COLLEGE, 

an institution which holds a very respectable rank for learn- 
ing and influence, the number of its pupils, and the 
ability of its officers. It was founded for the education 
of Indians, and was named after William Earl of Dart- 
mouth. It possesses a large tract of land, which, however, 
is unproductive ; and the college building, which is of 
wood, and not inhabited by the students, has an aspect 
of decay. The chapel is also of wood ; but several of 
the houses about the green are very neat, and the ground 
being elevated, the place is very pleasant. 

The Medical Institution is a brick building, a little north 
from the square. The number of scholars in the college, 
in 1825, was 138. 

The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 18 miles, 
presents few objects of much interest ; the country not 
being thickly populated, and no villages intervening, ex- 
cept one, whicb has several very neat houge!5. 



5J?0 THE NOllTHEliN 



IIAYERUILL. 

There are three villages in this town, but the northern 
one is where the Boston road comes in, and where there 
are two good inns. The situation is elevated and overlooks 
the meadows for some distance. The distant sceucry is 
here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountain and several 
others are in plain view, and serve as an introduction to 
the White Mountains, which we are approaching. 

On the opposite of the river is Pieumont, (and the 
traveller may cross or not,) where is a Sulpliw Spring o( 
some local celebrity, with a building for baths. Some 
distance south of it is a large house, in an agreeable situ- 
ation, for tlie accommodation of visiters. It is capable 
of receiving a great many people, and has a garden^and 
pleasant rustic walks about it. The stables are large, and 
great expense had been incurred, which has yet been ill 
repaid. 

The Great Ox-bow is a meadow containing about 600 
acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the western bank, 
and in the form of a crescent. Thesoilis tine and valuable ; 
but from the comparative small extent of the meadow, it 
cannot be compared with that of lladley. There are two 
or three houses seen, belonging to the family of the first 
settler, who, as may be miagincd, soon acquired wealth 
from so valuable a tract of land. 

From Bath 10 the >Vuite Mountains, there are two 
roads, one ol which turns oil" through Lisbon, Bethle- 
hem, Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and 
Shadbourn and Hart's Patent. [See Index.] 

Such is the wildness of the country, that we can do 
little more than enumerate the places. The road is new, 
in many places rocky, and in others rough on account of 
the logs which have been laid dow n to support it, and the 
remains of the stumps of trees. But it is more direct 
and much less mountainous, thim that which passes 
through Lancaster. It does not howeier aflbrd that fine 
view of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the ranges of 
mountains which there surround it, like a maguihcent am- 
phitheatre. 



TRAVELLER, 271 



LANCASTER 

IS a very pleasant town, and the last on the river which 
merits that name. The surrounding mountains form a 
nohle sc%ne, superior to every other of this nature alons; 
its course. 

* The navigation of Connecticut River. 

In 1825 a survey was made of the upper waters of this 
river, as far as Lake Connecticut, under the authority of 



♦ The freight, per ton, from Wells River to Hartford is at 
present $10 ; and from Hartford to Wells Riyer 820. From 
Brattlfcborough to Hartford (100 mileB) jJ6 per ton down and 
$10 un. Some counties in tne north-eastern part of Vermont 
now find it economical to transport produce ^ or 50 miles by 
land to St. Albans, thence by Lake Champlain to Whitehall, 
thence by the canal to Albany, and thence in sea vessels to 
Boston — ^thus passing the land, lake, canal, river, sound, and 
ocean. It is to reduce the expense of transportation over land, 
or circuitous water carriage, that the improvement of the 
river is to be attempted. From 100 towns in Vermont, the 
average price of transportation over land, to the nearest mar- 
ket, is estimated at g22 per ton — wheat, rye, or Indian com, 
60 cents a bushel. The average freif^ht of gait in more than 
iVs first coHt ; and such is the enonrious freight of Plaster of 
Paris, as to amount to a prohibition of its use. 

For the purpose of showing the difference between freights 
now, and freights after the improvements are made, the fol- 
lowing estimate is given : 

Present t^„^^.„,i Saving 
freight. J^P^^'d,. ^^^ 

From Bamet to Boston, 23 0<J 1 1 57 1 1 43 

From Brattleborough to do. 15 00 6 65 8 35 

As to the amount of tonnage, it is estimated that 16,000ton« 
would annually pass from towns in Vermont, to a market. By 
the improvement, the saving on this, per ton, would be jJ9 80 ; 
and would make an aggregate of §156,800 : 8,000 tons are esti- 
mated from New-Hampshire — 10,0iX) tons from towns in Maii- 
sachusetts, above South Hadlev Falls, and 12,000 tons from 
towas in Massachusetts, below South Hadley Falls ; making in 
all, an annual saving to the citizens of the valley of Connec- 
ticut River, of !5293,200. If there be added to this the probabl*- 



372 THE NORTHERN 

the adjacent states, and the general government ; and the 
result was such as strongly to encourage the hope, that the 
obstructions in the channel may all be overcome, so as 
to allow of the passage of boats quite up to its source in 
Lake Connecticut. If such a plan were execnted, the 
effects would prove of incalculable importance to the fer- 
tile and extensive regions through which the river flows. 
Beside opening the navigation to Lake Connecticut, be- 
tween Barnet, Vt. and Stewartstown, N. H. it is intended 
to connect the river with Lake Memphremagog by a boat 
channel, between Nalhegan and Clyde Rivers. 

The following statptnents are given as the results of 

the survey. That from Barnet in Vermont, to Hartford 
in Connecticut, a distance of 219 miles, a depth 
never less than four feet at low water may be provided, 
and slack water secured throughout, so as to be naviga- 
ble by boats of heavy burden, at an expense not exceeding 
$1,071,827 91: which estimate has been made on the suppo- 
sition that the works are to be constructed of the best m£i- 
terials, and in the most durable manner. Of the above 
specified extent, 17 miles would be canal, to avoid bars or 
tedious bends in the stream, and 202 miles would be slack 
"water navigation formed in the stream itself, by 15 dams 
and 41 locks properly disposed, and such occasional exca- 
vations as are found necessary. In addition to the sum 
above stated as the probable cost of the works to be con- 
structed, an amount of about $500,000 must be expended 
to procure certain necessary water privileges, now in the 
hands of various individuals and companies, preliminary 
to the undertaking ; which will make the cost of the 
whole amount to $1,571,827 91. 

Canal from Connecticut River to Burlington on Lake 
Champlain. 

A survey has lately been completed, of Onion River, 
from Lake Champlain, at Burlington, to Montpelier, a 
distance of 38 miles. It is ascertained that a canal may 

saving to towns in Connecticut, say $6,800, the srand esti> 
mate will be safe at $300,000. 



TRAVELLEK. 273 

oe made on three levels, the amount of fall at three points 
being 394 feet. The height of Lake Champlain above the 
Hudson River, at Albany, is 86 feet. The elevation from 
Montpelier towards the Connecticut River, to Onion 
River Pond, was found to be 877 feet, and the fall thence 
to the mouth of Wells River on the Connecticut 918 feet, 
making the whole lockage from Lake Champlain to the 
Connecticut 2189 feet. By another route through Dog 
River, where there is a less abundant supply of water, 
and White River, to the mouth of the latter, the lockage 
is 1468 feeet. — [JBoston Daily Adv.] 

[Having now completed the route up Connecticut 
River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other routes 
and places, see Index.] 



B h 2 



•274 THE NOKHERN 



NEW-LONDON. 

Entering New-London Habour, on the left is the Light 
House, and the dwelling of Gen. North, once aid-de-camp 
to Baron Steuben. The shore beyond is inhabited by 
fishermen, whose boats (called smacks) are generally to 
be seen in great numbers. 

Fort Trumbull 

occupies a point beyond. It is a small work, and garri- 
soned by the United States. It was taken in the revolu- 
tionary war, as well as the town and Fort Griswold, which , 
stands on the high hill opposite. Looking up the River 
Thames, the prospect is handsome, the banks being high 
and cultivated, and backed by Horton's Hill, several miles 
distant, in the Mohegan country. 

The Harbour of New-London is one of the most ac- 
cessible, safe, and commodious in the United States, lying 
near the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded by 
high land, and having water enough for ships of war quite 
up to the wharves, with a fine sandy bottom near the 
shores. Unfortunately, however, there is no convenient 
communication far into the country, and the region about 
it is far from fertile, so that the place can never attain 
much importance. It serves in some degree as the port 
of Connecticut River, because there is no good harbour 
there ; and a great deal of trade was carried on with the 
West Indies a (ew years ago. 

^ew-London is the third town in Connecticut for the 
number of inhabitants, and like several of the other prin- 
cipal places, although so small, enjoys the privileges of a 
city. It is situated irregularly, principally at the foot of 
a hill, facing the east, and wears an appearance of de- 
cline ; but some of the houses are handsome, and there 
are several fine situations near the top of the hill. 

One of the steam boats stops here ; and the other, after 
landing and receiving passengers, proceeds up the river 
to Norwich, 13 miles. 

There is a road hence to Providence, and another from 



TRAVELLER. 275 

I^fonvich, both equally uninteresting, and nearly of equal 
length. The river, however, affords some very pretty 
scenes, and Norwich is a neat and interesting town. 
The prices have hitherto been nearly the same for the two 
routes. 

Fort Griswold, 

on the high hill opposite New-London, was garrisoned by 
a few continental troops in the year 1781, in the revolu- 
tion, when Benedict Arnold, after his treacherous deser- 
tion of the American cause, appeared off the harbour with 
a British force on the 6tli of September; and landing 800 
men on each point of the harbour, marched up and took 
Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Col. Eyre, who 
commanded the troops on the eastern shore, proceeded to- 
wards Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of truce, de- 
manded a surrender. 

But before this time. Col. Ledyard had entered the 
fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia vo- 
lunteers from the neighbourhood. The British troops 
had advanced under cover of a wood, and invested the 
fort; but the Americans defended themselves for some 
time, beating off their enemies once, and finally surren- 
dering only when resistance v/ould have been entirely 
useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers and men, who 
were buried near the spot ; with Col. Ayres, the command- 
er, wounded, and Maj. Montgomery killed. After the 
surrender, however, a massacre of the prisoners took 
place, which cast the deepest disgrace on the expedition : 
70 officers and men being the victims, most of whom 
Were heads of families. Many of the wounded were also 
treated in a most barbarous manner, being placed in a cart, 
and roJled down the hill just south of the present road to 
the fort. 

Thif> melancholy event was commemorated on the 6th 
day of September, 1825, by a procession, an oration, &c. 
and arrangements were made for building by subscription 
a monument on the spot. 

The objects on the Thames, at Norwich, &c. will be 
taken up on page 277. 



'276 THE NOHTIIERN 



Road from NEW-LONDON to PROVIDENCE. 

yoRT Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles 
east from this place, and derives its name from a Pequod 
Fort, which formerly occupied its summit. A road cross- 
es it near the southern limit of the fort, and a small 
church stands a quarter of a mile above, within the ex- 
tensive space once enclosed by that palisaded work. It 
was the great fortress of the terrible Pequod nation, which 
makes a very conspicuous figure in the early history of 
the eastern colonies. They had fought their way from 
the interior, and seated themselves in the present limits 
of Groton, where the few poor remains of their descend- 
ants still are found. On the arrival of the English, they 
had extended their conquests a considerable distance up 
Connecticut River, and the Eastern and Western Nehan- 
tics on the coast were subject to them. 

In consequence of the murders they had committed, 
and the attack with which they threatened the infant 
settlements at Hartford, Windsor, and WcthersQeld, the 
inhabitants formed an expedition in the spring of 1637, 
led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort oh the Mys- 
tic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after which 
the nation fled from their country ; and having suffered 
another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield, (see 
page 231,) were reduced to slavery, and ceased from that 
time to be an object of terror. 

This hill commands an "Extensive and delightfiil view, 
being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being su- 
perior in height to the neighbouring hills. A considerable 
extent of Long Island and the Sound are overlooked from 
the summit, with various islands, bays, and points on 
the Connecticut Coast. At the time of the burning of 
Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the chief Sachem Sassa- 
cus, who hastened to the relief of his subjects, but ar- 
rived too late to render them any assistance. On his 
return here, he burnt the weekwams, and palisadoes, and 
immediately fled for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he 
tvas beheaded. 
Mystic, 71 miles. 
Stoningtov, 10 milep. 



TRAVELLER. 277 

Uii descending the hill which leads into this village, 
Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off the 
road on the right hand. Under the shelter of it, it is said, 
Capt. Mason encamped with his little army, on the night 
of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his suc- 
cessful attack on the Pequod Fort, which was oji the top 
of a hill about two miles south of this place. 

During the last war, a small fort in this town was at- 
tacked by a ship and two brigs of Com. Hardy's squadron, 
and defended by the inhabitants with great gallantry. 

HoPEiNTON, 11 miles. 

West Greenwich, 15 miles. 

Centreville, 2 miles. 

[Here are two cotton manufactories, about half a mile 
apart, and two weaving shops, with their little settlements, 
principally inhabited by the work people.] 

Providence, 11 miles. (See page 284.) 



THE RIVER THAMES. 

Steam Boat Route from NEW-LONDON to NORWICH. 

A little above New-London, there is a singular rock, 
on the east side, where the explorers of the river are 
said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the 
Pequods. The Mohegan country lies above, on the 
west side, with Hortori's Hill, on the top of which Uncas 
had a fort, something of which still remains. It is a 
very commanding position, and overlooks the surround- 
ing country. During the late war, the government ships 
Macedonian, United States, and Hornet, which were in 
the river, lay moored here for a length of time, and their 
guns were drawn up by oxen to the top of the hill on 
the east shore, above the little cove. A small battery 
was also constructed on the little spur projecting from the 
hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia were also stationed on 
the opposite shore for their further security. 

Massapeague Point, just above. Here the river is 
quite narrow, opening northward into a small lake. 

There is a small Island on the eastern shore, on which 



27S THE NORTHERN 

is a stone cottage, built by the soldiers for a poor family 
ivhich resided here during the war. It lies at the entrance 
of a pretty cove, which makes up a mile. Commodore 
Decatur brought the ships up here, for still greater secu- 
rity against the British cruizing off New-London Harbour. 
The place where they lay is Kiah\s Cove, a mile above the 
island. 

Above this place, the river has been impeded by sand, 
washed down by the Shetuoket River, and attempts are 
making to remedy it by building piers. At low water, it 
is now 7^ or 8 feet deep, and the tide rises from 2 tp 2^ 
feet. 

. Trading Cove, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand- 
some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and 
derived its name from the barter formerly carried on here 
between the white men and the Mohegans. Uncas, the 
Sachem of Mohegan, was believed to be of Pequod de- 
scent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the 
English became acquainted with him. His chief residence 
was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian Reser- 
vation ; but the burying ground of the royal family was 
near Norwich Landing, (which is in sight from this place.) 
He had conquered the country as far north as about the 
present Massachusetts line, but became an early friend of 
the whites, and rendered them important services, par- 
ticularly in war, as well as his successors, the later Mo- 
hegan Chiefs. 

Before ibis part of the state was settled, Uncas was 
once so closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, that 
he suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, and 
was relieved only by the care of a man named Leffing- 
well, who was despatched from Connecticut with a boat 
loaded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncas gave him a 
large part of the present town of Norwich for this im- 
portant service. There is a rock still pointed out on the 
shore, and called Uncas's Chair, where the Sachem is 
said to have set and watched the arrival of his friends. 

On the south side, Trading Cove is bounded by Nab 
Cooper's Hill, an appellation somewhat quaint for a neigh- 
bourhood not deficient in romantic association. Beyond 
is Fort HUl, which derived its name from a little place of 
.-rtrength erected in old times by the Indians, as a pro- 



TKAVKLLEU. Ti^^' 

teclion against other nations small like itself. The poor re- 
mains of this tribe reside on the lands secured to them 
by the state government, and live in all the ignorance, 
idlenses, and thriftlessness common to Indians in this part 
of the country : melancholy testimonies of the degrada- 
tion to ^vhich the most active human minds may sink 
when every customary impulse to exertion has been stifled, 
and no new incitement extended. An Indian could for- 
merly equal or surpass his companions by an extraordi- 
nary display of swiftness and skill in the chase, or con- 
duct and courage in war ; and what exertions were not 
made for the attainment of such distinction ? Red men 
have traversed these beautiful shores in the pursuit of 
game or the tracks of their enemies, and suflfered all the 
severities of climate and privation, of wounds and of 
torture, for those white men whose sons now neglect and 
despise their descendants, and coldly question their ca- 
pacity for improvement, 

NORWICH. 

Stage Coaches go on to Providence and Boston, and 
there are others in different directions. 

It contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing 
is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular situa- 
tion, as well as for its appearance of business, which is 
much favoured by the numerous manufactories in the 
neighbouring country. The Plain is about a mile north, 
and a very pleasant place. 

On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper end 
of which are the Falls op the Y an tic, a stream which 
pours over a ledge of granite about 40 ieet high, and sup- 
plies several manufactories with water.. The place is 
highly picturesque. A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, over- 
Langs the stream, whence a number of Narragansett In- 
dians once precipitated themselves when pursued by the 
Mohegans. 

The Burying Grounu OF THE Uncasses 

is on the elevated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds 
'?f Jud8:e Go(ilard. There arc stones marking the gra'vc.5 



280 THE NORTHERN 

of numerous members of the royal family of the Mohe- 
gans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. The 
family is now extinct, with the exception of one or two 
degenerate beings, who have nothing but their name to 
boast of. Uncas, the old friend of the white men, is 
buried here. He and his nation were the only steady 
allies they ever found among the Indians, who was steady 
and powerful enough to render them very essential ser- 
vice. He was a man of extraordinary talent, and withal, 
extremely politic ; but he refused to join the general in- 
surrection under King Philip in i675, and died a friend of 
the white men. 

This plain was the principal summer residence of the 
Mobegans. 

The Cotton Manufactory is a very large establish- 
ment, under the bank, and at the mouth of the Yanticc 
The position is well selected, and the sum expended in 
buildings and machinery very great. It is owned by a 
company in Boston, from which city a vast amount of 
capital has been expended in all parts of JNew-England 
for similar objects, as the traveller will have opportunity 
to perceive as he proceeds. 

Canal. Surveys were made in 1825 for a Canal to 
run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up the 
Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply of 
water is considered abundant at all seasons, and the tract 
of country through which it is to pass extremely favoura- 
ble to the execution of such a design, as well as by its 
fertility and population, encouraging to its success. It is 
to pass through the following towns : Springfield, Palmer, 
Western, Brookfield, Sturbridge, Southbridge, and Dud- 
ley, to the Quinebaugh. 

Road from NORWICH to PROVIDENCE. 

The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh River 
for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, and 
near a fine cataract in that stream. At tho distance of 
1^ miles from Norwich, it passes 

Sachem's Field. 

This is an elevated plain, on which a battle was fought 



TRAVELLER. 281 

in the year 1643, between about 900 Narragansetts, (who 
inhabited Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Mohegans. The 
Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to chastise 
Uncas for his adherence to the English, secretly advanced 
into his country with an army ; but Uncas was aware of 
his approach, and met him on this plain, where both par- 
ties halted. 

Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward 
alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quarrel 
single-handed. This, as he expected, was refused ; and 
while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal by 
falling down, when his men instantly set up a yell, dis- 
charged their arrows, and rushed forward. The Narra- 
gansetts fled, and many of them Avere killed. Uncas cap- 
tured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian would 
not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He was taken to 
Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for 
execution. He was brought back to this place, and while 
marchiog across the field, was tomahawked on a spot a 
little east of the road, where a heap of stones for many 
years marked the place of his burial. 

Jewett's City is a small manufacturing place, 7 miles 
from Norwich. There are three cotton manufactories 
here, one with 2000 spindles. 

Plainfield 

is a pleasant village ; the inn is large and good, and 
overlooks a fertile plain, through which is the route of 
the proposed canal to Brookfield, M(i»s. 

On crossing the line of Rhode Island, the country be- 
comes uninteresting. The farmers are poor and negli- 
gent ; there are no villages deserving of the name, and 
nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two 
small manufactories. 

Providence. See page 284. 

NEWPORT. 

This place possesses one of the best harbours in the 
United .States. The entrance is guarded by the Dum- 



2SJJ THE ISOUTUERN 

plings Fort, and Fort Adams ; and the scenery about it ii 
agreeable. 

Fort Adams on Brenton's Point lias had some addi- 
tions made to its defences, and is to embrace, when com- 
pleted, an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to 
line the shore towards the west, as far down as the first 
rising ground. It is proposed to fortify the Dumplings 
at an expense of $500,000. 

Fort Woolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the town. 

Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but 
presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been 
I'emoved to Providence. The situation has many advan- 
tages ; and this with the cheapness of rent will probably 
render it the temporary abode of many stra:igers during 
the warm season. 

The Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of the 
hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused. 
There are four churches visible ; and the Library, a small 
but neat and correct specimen of architecture in the up- 
per part of the town, is worthy of attention. The houses 
of the town are thickly clustered about the margin, but 
make rather a gloomy appearance on account of the want 
of paint and repair ; the place having experienced agradual 
declension produced by the success of Providence, 30 
miles further up. 

The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, about 
a mile above the town, seen in passing in the steam boat. 
The island belongs to the town, and contains SO acres. 
The building is three stories high, of stone, and con- 
tains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, work on the 
land, and others on different manufactures ; but most of 
them are women, and some superanauated. The keeper 
receives 50 cents a week for the board of each, which is 
paid by the town, to which the products of the labour are 
credited. Since this establishment has been formed, the 
expenses of the poor to the town have been reduced one- 
half. 

The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit of 
the city, on the land side, was defended by a line of troops, 
batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the English 
in the revolutionary war ; and the opposite high grounds' 
were occupied by the American army, whose head quar- 



TRAVELLER. 28S 

ters were on Taumony Hill, a mile and a half, or there- 
abouts, from the town ; and an elevation which affords an 
extensive view on every side. It is said to have derived 
its name from some old Indian chief, whose life, and pe- 
riod, and exploits, have been entirely lost. Gen. Prescott 
was taken here during the war, by a bold party of men 
under Col. Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the 
night, went to the British head quarters, and conveyed 
their captive away before the land or naval forces, then in 
the harbour, could prevent them. The place was block- 
aded by the British fleet. 

During the possession of the place by the enemy, the 
trees were cut down for fuel ; and although the soil is 
admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and 
was before that period, quite covered with the finest 
orchards ; it is now so divested of trees of every descrip- 
tion, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for 
an American scene. The fertility of the ground, and the 
excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness 
and precision with which the fields are cultivated, and 
regularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture of 
agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United States. 

Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's 
edge, about a mile above the town. 

Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence 
of the Narraganset Indians, and particularly as the abode 
of King Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from 
a few miles beyond Newport, towards the north-west. 
It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay, 
and will be particularly described hereafter. The view 
of it is soon afterwards cut off by the intervention of 
Prudence Islayidy which is about five miles in length, and 
presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling surface 
as that of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are 
those of Patience and Hope : islands of a much smaller 
size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the 
island of Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from 
Providence. 

The banks along the remaining part of the river pre- 
sent little that is remarkable. The Coal Mine is near the 
north end of Rhode Island. The coal is anthracite. 



•2S4 THE NORTHERN 



PROVIDENCE. 

This is the second city in New- England, both in popu- 
lation, wealth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, about 
16,000 inhabitants, and is beautifully as well as advan- 
tageously situated at the head of navigation, on the river 
of the same name. 

Brown University, 

the greatest institution of learning in the state, is built 
on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to which is not 
very easy, although it is laid out in streets decorated with 
some of the finest houses in this part of the country ; 
dispersed among spacious gardens, and mingling the de- 
lights of the country with the splendour of a city. There 
are two brick buildings belonging to this institution, which 
contained, in 1825, 156 students. 

The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the 
old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious 
doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near the 
present episcopal church. Many of the society of Qua- 
kers or Friends afterwards joined him, whose descendants 
form a large share of the population of the state. 

The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles, 
is one of the best in the United States ; as the law re- 
quires that all the income above 10 per cent, shall be de- 
voted to repairs ; and the travelling is very great. It is 
hard and smooth, and is to be furnished with a convenient 
side walk the whole distance. 

Pawtucket 

is one of the largest manufacturing places in this part of 
the country, and has increased surprisingly within a few 
years. The banks of the river are varied and somewhat 
romantic ; while the fall, which is under the bridge, fur- 
nishes a most valuable water power. There are three 
new manufactories building at Centre Falls, about a mile 
above. Cotton is principally manufactured here, though 
fhere is machinery devoted to other purposes. The influx 



TRAVELLER. *285 

Ji slrangers, many of them poor and ignorant for- 
eigners, and most of them removed from the wholesome 
restraints of a better society, has produced unfavour- 
able effects on habits and morals ; which is the worst 
feature in the manufacturing system. 

Blackstone Canal. 

This canal, which is intended to reach to Worcester, 
Mass. will run along the course of the Blackstone River 
for several miles. That stream is seen on leaving Provi- 
dence, and lies tvestof the road to Boston. The road 
now in use is new, and shorter than the old, but avoids 
several villages which that passes through, and presents 
very few objects worthy of notice. 

Attleborough. 

The inn at this place stands on the spot once occupied 
by a block house, built on the frontier of the Indian 
country before Philip's war. Opposite is an old burying 
ground, which contains the body of the first man killed 
here by the savages. 

Walpole. 
Here the stage coaches usually stop to dine or breakfast. 

Dediiam, 
10 miles from Boston, 

is a large and beautiful village, with regular and well built 
streets, and some quite elegant bouses. 

Blue Hills. This is a pleasant retreat, about 7 miles 
from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the 
summer season ; as a large house of entertainment has 
been recently erected at the foot of the mountain whence 
the place derives its name ; and the summit, which is 
considered about 800 feet above the level of the ocean, 
commands a fine and extensive view. A small house has 
also been built on the top, where the view is the finest, 
for the temporary repose and supply of visiters. On the. 
C r2 



286 THE NORTHERN 

northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, the Green 
Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in New- 
Hampshire, with a wide extent of country between ; Na- 
hant, and in general, all Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly, 
and near at hand. 

The hills are seen on the right from the road, a few 
miles south of Boston. 

ROXBURY. 

On the Neck which leads to Boston, we pass the re- 
mains of the entrenchments thrown up by General Wash- 
ington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in the town ; 
and a little beyond them is the place where Gen Gage 
before drew his line across, to command the communica- 
tion between it and the country. The country on both 
sides retains marks of the American forts, redoubts, &c. 
and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with 
the works thrown up by Washington, which commanded 
Boston and the anchorage ; and forced the enemy to 
evacuate the place. Embarking here in their fleet, they 
went round to Long Island, and soon after entered New- 
York. 



TRAVELLER. 287 



BOSTON. 



Hotels, &c. The Exchange, Marlborough Hotel. 

Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine build- 
ings, particularly private residences : for it not only pos- 
sesses much wealth, but it is more fashionable here than 
in many other places, to fit merchants for the compting 
house by a liberal education, by which means taste, as 
well as science, is fostered. The finest buildings are of 
whitish granite, brought from the shores of the Merrimac 
River, being found in abundance at different places, from 
Chelmsford to Concord, N. H. It is transported to Bos- 
ton by the Middlesex Canal, and is not only beautiful and 



The New Market 

is constructed of this material, and is of the following di- 
mensions: a centre building 741 feet by 55, with wings, 
extending in all 536 feet, with a fine facade at each end, 
with granite columns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and 
weighing, each, 14 or 15 tons ; a row of granite buildings 
on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet. 

The Common 

is a fine piece of ground, on the south-western side of the 
city, and one of its greatest ornaments. The surface is 
agreeably varied by a few gentle undulations, and it is de- 
corated by rows of handsome dwelling houses on two 
sides, while on the third, it is bounded by the bay of 
Charles's River, and affords an extensive view in that direc- 
tion, embracing a tract of cultivated hilly country. A 
range of buildings near the south end of the Common, 
bears the name of Colonnade Row, in consequence of 
their being all alike furnished with white columns. 

The State House 

is the principal object seen in approaching the city, and 
stands on a considerable eminence at the north side of 



283 THE NORTHERN 

the Common. It has a double range of columns in front 
of the main building, and a large dome on the top, to ivhich 
a somewhat intricate stair-case lead^, affording the most 
extensive view of Boston and the surrounding country 
which is to be found. The hills at Dorchester, Koxbury,, 
Brighton, Cambridge, Charlestown, &c. together with the 
numerous islands, which protect the harbour, form an 
amphitheatre, very regular and beautiful ; and the villages 
•which are seen in every direction, almost entirely line 
their shores. The mingling of iand and water in this 
scene is very fine ; and it is easy, a' a glance, to compre- 
hend the plan of the various measures, adopted during the 
Revolutionary war, for the defence and the capture of the 
place. 

Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breast work across Roxbury 
neck, which is very narrow, in order to command the only 
land communication with the neighbouring country, and 
then continued those acts of oppression upon the people, 
which exasperated the colonies so much against him. 
Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts 
of the colonies. 

On the 17tb of June, 1775, while the forces which had 
repaired to this threatened scene, had their head quarters 
at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of detach- 
ments from Massachusetts and New-Hampshire regi- 
ments, having fortified themselves on Breed's Hill, (an in- 
ferior eminence behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed 
the ground with the British troops, sent over from Bos- 
ton to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, parti- 
cularly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in 
three attacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the 
success with which they so long withstood the charges of 
the regulars, was of the utmost use, by encouraging the 
country, and by convincing the English that they were 
fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by the 
name of Bunker's Hill; but should, in strict propriety,' 
])e called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct em- 
inence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former. 

The British landed near a point, just beyond where the 
navy yard is now seen; and the American defences consist- 
ed of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, and a 
Uwuble rail fence, stuffed with new hay, extending from it 



TRAVELLER. 289 

to the water. Some remains of these works are still to 
be traced. A British sloop of war, lay, during the ac- 
tion, in Mystic River, beyond the navy yard, and kept up 
a cross fire upon the low neck, which connects the penin- 
sula of Charlesto%vn with the main land. 

The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this 
battle, was commemorated with very appropriate ceremo- 
nies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid in an 
angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, with Masonic 
ceremonies. A large number of Revolutionary officers 
and soldiers assembled ; and the monument is to be 
erected at the expense of private contributions. 

After the battle of Bunker's hill, the Continental troops 
were drawn in a more complete line around the town of 
Boston ; and numerous entrenchments may still be traced 
out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was not till 
Gen. Washington succeeded in occupying Dorchester 
Heights, which command the harbour and town from the 
south-east, that the British forces embarked in their ships, 
and evacuated the place. 

Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of 
March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van ,» then 
followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. Tho- 
mas, 300 carts of fascines and gabions, and guns in the 
rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one towards 
the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Prepara- 
tions were made for an attack by the British, and for de- 
fence by the Americans ; but the weather prevented the 
designs of the former, who consisted of 10,000, and they 
embarked for New-York. The town was pillaged, and 
1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated and possessed, 
March 17, ammunition, &c. being left by the British- 

Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in the 
neighbourhood of Boston, are the bridges which lead from 
it to various points. There are no less than five principal 
ones, beside several branches- The expense at which 
they have been constructed and are kept in repair, is 
very great, and they furnish great facilities for strangers 
desirous of making excursions to the surrounding country. 

Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a succes- 
sion of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty 
in the United States. They are generally the residence of a 



290 THE NORTHERN 

number of the most opulent citizens, during the pleasaa^ 
seasons, and many of the bnildinsis are fine and expen- 
sive. The grounds are also frequently laid out with great 
taste, and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, who has 
leisure, should fail to take a circuit through them, at least 
for a few miles. 

NAHANT, 

14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fashionable 
resort, during the warm months: being a fine situation, 
open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, and 
furnished with several houses for the accommodation of 
■visiters, particularly the large hotel. A steam boat runs 
thither in the summer, and there is a fine road which 
passes round the bay through the shoe-making tov/n 
of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns off to the 
promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough rocks 
of considerable elevation. You may cross Charleslown 
bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at setting out. > 

The passage in the steam boat affords a fine view of 
Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester Heights on the 
south, Bunker, and Breed's Hill on the north-west, and 
many other interesting objects. Among the islands which 
form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains 
Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified ones ; , 
Rainsford Island with the Marine Hospital, part of it quite 
elevated, but containing only a few acres. Salt is made 
in Boston Bay, and wind mills are sometimes used to 
pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been laid out 
and ornamented with as much taste as the exposure of the 
situation will permit. The cupola on the top command^ 
a fine water scene ; and, durin;^ a strong wind from the 
sea, the waves are high and magnificent, breaking wildly 
against the rocks. There is a. very ornamental little 
building, in the Grecian style, which contains billiard 
rooms. 

The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and 
quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attractions 
of the place. 

The St«.en's Grotto is a remarkable cavity in the 
fopks, about a quarter of a mile from the hotel, which 



TUAVELLEll. 29i 

has been curiously worn out by the waves ; and there arc 
several other caverns of similar character, produce*! in the 
course of ages, by the constant attrition of the water. 
The rude shores and the smooth beach can be best ex- 
amined at loAv tide ; but those who are fond of sublime 
scenes, should omit no opportunity lo visit them when 
the wind is high, particularly in a moonlight night. 

Routes prom Boston. 

Coaches go in so many directions, that a choice may be 
made between a great many, all of them pleasant ; in set- 
ling out for a tour to the westward, or towards the city of 
New- York. 

In the first place, the noble scenery of the White Hills 
may be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, Canada, the 
Springs, or Niagara ; or in making the more circumscribed 
route of Connecticut River. Next, those who choose a 
more direct way, may avail themselves of the road through 
Concord, Plj mouth, and Haverhill ; or Concord and Ha- 
nover ; or Concord, Keene, and Windsor ; or its branches 
to Charlestown or Walpole. The last is now much tra- 
velled, as it is one of the shortest routes between Boston 
and the Springs, and leads through a number of interest- 
ing places. Beside these, are the roads to Albany or the 
Springs, through the following different places : Brattle- 
borough, Bloody Brook, Greenfield, Northampton, (and 
New Lebanon ;) Springfield and Hartford. Of these 
different routes, it is difficult to make choice of any one 
to recommend in general. Many may have particular 
objects in view, and some will have less time at their dis- 
posal. To strangers, however, it will be proper to remark 
once more, that the route of Connecticut River presents 
at once a scene of fertility, population, good habits, and 
intelligence, on the whole, superior to any other tract of 
country, of equal extent, in the United States ; with cor- 
respondent accommodations for travellers. Tbe scenery 
is rich and varying, and cannot fail to please, wherever it 
is seen ; but those who can first pass through the Notch 
in the White Mountains, will find its beauties greatly en- 
hanced by the contrast. At Hadley and Northampton, is 
ihe most beautiful part of the whole river : and for i\w 



292 THE NORTHERN 

other routes, we can only refer to the Index tor the des- 
criptions of the principal towns through which they pass. 

East of Boston, the country is of a different, and too 
often of a contrary character, presenting few objects of 
importance, except the sea ports through which the road 
passes. 

For the Steam Boats to Maine and J^eio-Brunsioick, See 
Index. 

The Road to Portland and through the most popu- 
lous part of the state of Maine will be given ; but being 
of less interest to most travellers from this city, will be 
placed at the end of the volume, while we turn our at- 
tention to the principal routes leading west and north 
from Boston. 

To Albany through Worcester, Northampton, and 
Lebanon Springs. 
Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vicinity 
of Boston, presents many neat country seats, and an as- 
pect of rural beauty and fertility. 

Framingham. Here is a large and well kept hotel, 
where the stage coaches stop, and is a place of great 
resort. 

Worcester. {See page 2i7.) 
Leicester. 



Brookpield. This was one of the towns earliest settled I 
in this part of the country, dating so far before Philip's 
War. The land was sold by the Indians to Thoma»> 
Cooper, for the settlers, Nov. 10, 1665; and for several 
years the only towns on the west were Hadley, Northamp- 
ton, &c. while there was no white settlement between it 
and Canada. The stage coach passes over a long hill in 
WestBrookfield, which commands an extensive prospect { 
and this was the place where the settlement began. A 
few yards west of a white house on the north side of the 
road, was a house built for defence, and though of little 
strength was called the Fort. In August, 1675, when the 
Indians had first begun to be troublesome in the south of 
New-England, this place was suddenly beset by several 



TKAVELLEK. 283 

liundred savages. The inhabitants had been imposed 
upon by the appearance of friendliness shown by the Has- 
senemesit Indians, and on their way to their fort, a few 
miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, so that they 
barely escaped. The house in which they all assembled, 
was besieged, and was several times in imminent danger! 
On one occasion a cart loaded with hemp, &c. and set on 
fire, was pushed up to the house with long poles, when a 
sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the flames. 
The fortunate arrival of Capt. Moseley, with a small troop 
of horsemen, delivered the inhabitants, and drove away 
the savages ; but it is melancholy to reflect, that the Ge- 
neral Court thought proper to censure that gallant ofllicer, 
for neglecting their orders, although he had been diverted 
only by the distress of Brookfield. All the houses having 
been burnt, and the war soon beginning to rage with 
violence, the settlement was evacuated. 

The old well still remains which belonged to the fort, 
or block house ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the op- 
posite side of the road, from behind which an Indian 
shot one of the men, who came out to draw water during 
the siege. 

The present village is at the bottom of the hill, and is 
pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighbour- 
hood, which, with the fish and fowl they furnished, were 
the principal attraction of the savages, who were very 
numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise 
to the Quabaug River, which, after a course of some miles, 
takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Connecticut at 
Springfield. This is the stream which it is intended to 
connect with Boston Bay by a canal, and also by another 
with the Thames at Norwich, in Connecticut. 

Four miles west of Brookfield you reach a height of 
land, which affords a varied and extensive view, with a 
succession of hilly country immediately around you. 

Ware Factory Village 

Is situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. the 
rocks and woods gave an air of wildness to the water fall, 
in <he\v natural state, and the plate is now <piite pk- 



294 THE NORTHERN 

tUfcsque, when a rustic cottage, the residence of the 
agent, is taken into view. 

Four years since there were only five buildings ; and 
now there are, a cotton factory, containing 2,000 spin- 
dles, and 56 looms ; another nearly finished, to contain 
4,500 spindles, and 150 looms ; a third, of the size of the 
latter, commenced ; a flannel manufactory, in which are 
made 15 pieces per week ; fifteen edifices used as store, 
dye, wool houses, machine, blacksmiths', cabinetmakers', 
and various other shops ; grist and saw mills, a furnace, 
thirty dwelling houses ; and other buildings erecting, ma- 
king the whole number of structures fifty-eight. 

Belchertown, 9 miles. 

Amherst, 7 miles. The shortest road to Northampton 
does not pass the College. 

Hadley, 5 miles. 



4 



TliAVELLEft. 2^5 

TOUR TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

From Boston. 

The first day's journey is to Concord or Dover, both in 
New-Hampshire. The former route is recommended. 

There are three roads to Concord, on all which there 
are stage coaches. (See " Roads,'" at the end of the vo- 
lume.) 

The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvard Uni- 
versity,) and Lexington. 

The second is through Charlestown, and joins the other 
on the Merrimack. 

The third is through Andover and Haverhill, (Mass.) 

The distance is from 6S to 70 miles, and the fare $3,50. 

Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex Caned, 
which leaves the upper locks in Charlestown, (2 miles from 
Boston,) three times a week, and goes to Chelmsford in 
about 9 hours : 28 miles, passage 75 cents. This mode is 
not particularly recommended. 

Several places on these roads will be particularized. 

Lexington 

is remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed 
in the revolutionary war. On the 19th of April, 1776, 
Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Boston, to seize a 
powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony ; and 
the -inhabitants were warned of his design, by an ex- 
press despatched by the Hon. Joseph Warren. The 
militia were called out, but, the alarm subsiding, they 
were dismissed, with orders, however, to hold themselves 
in readiness. The enemy unexpectedly made their appear- 
ance at half past 4, coming on at quick step, within a mile 
and a quarter of the church. The alarm guns were fired, 
drums beat, and 50 or 60 militiamen assembled on the pa- 
rade. The British brigade halted about 120 yards from the 
church to load, and then passing the east end of the building, 
discovered the Americans, who were ordered at the mo- 
ment, by their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, and 
^ke care of themselvesj" but "not to fire." As some of them 



206 THE NORTHERN 

loitered, the British troops rushed towards them, huzza- 
ing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about 
30 yards distant, after they had been called "rebels," and 
ordered to lay down their arms and disperse. Another 
ofl&cer, who was within a few yards of them, then bran- 
dished his sword and ordered the troops to " fire," which 
was obeyed at the second order ; and the fire being re- 
turned, was kept up on the dispersing men until they 
had all disappeared. Eight were killed and ten wounded* 
(Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired 
upon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green be- 
hind the church, and given three cheers, they proceeded 
to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by 
sharp shooters, they burnt three houses, a shop, and a 
barn, killed three more men and wounded one. 

Andover 

is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miles from 
Boston, remarkable for the Philips Academy and Theolo- 
gical Seminary^ which are three-fourths of a mile east 
from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three 
large brick buildings, belonging to the Seminary, which 
make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the sur- 
rounding country, and command a view of great extent, 
bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in N. Hampshire, 
backed by the Monadnoc, about 60 miles ofF; and in the 
south by the Blue Hills. A little elevation near by aflbrds 
a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport to 
Cape Ann, with part of Salem ; and north-west is a dis- 
tant peak, which is supposed to be Ascutney, in Vermont, 
The academical buildings are distinguished by the names 
of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In the 
upper part of the latter is a library of 5 or 6000 volumes. 
The Professors' houses are opposite, with a spacious 
green intervening between the Seminary and the street ; 
and there is also a large inn. The Academy and Seminar 
ry are not connected, although they are under the super- 
intendence of the same board. The term of instruction 
in the latter embraces three years. 



TRAVELLER. 297 



Haverhill 



is a small town, but pleasantly situated, on the north bank 
of the Merrimac, the shores of which, for some distance 
below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to the water. 
A bridge crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from 
the weather. 

Chelmsford 

is one of the principal manufacturing places in the United 
States. The Merrimac Company for Printing Cotton 
Goods are building large manufactories. They are all to 
be of an equal size, like those already in operation, con- 
taining 3613 spindles each, with the machinery for pre- 
paring the cotton, and also for weaving and dressing the 
eloth. There is a large foundery nearby, and two manu- 
factories are to be built eveij season. About 2408 yards 
of cloth will be made every day, in each of the buildings. 
More than 700 dozen of scythes were made at Farwell's 
manufactory in this town, in 1825. 

Nashua Village, 

in Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the 
Nashua River is 65 feet, and the power equal to about 
65,000 spindles. Here are some astonishing improvements. 
In 1825 there were two great manufactories, each 155 feet 
by 48, one for cotton and the other for woollen, with a 
dye house 150 by 48, a wood house and machine shop 
250 by 30, &c. The buildings for the work people form 
small and regular villages. 

Dover. 

This is one of the principal towns in the state, and con- 
tains several manufactories, although the supply of water 
is by no means abundant at all seasons. In crossing the 
bridge there are seen three large manufactories, each about 
200 feet in length ; and the foundation of a fourth was 
laid in 1825, although the contracted space a<forded on 
T>d2 



29S THE NORTHERN 

the banks required the blasting out of a great quantity of 
rock for the foundation and sluiceways. 

CONCORD 

is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a very fine and 
flourishing town. It is much the largest the traveller will 
see before reaching the White Mountains, and for a great 
distance beyond them. 

Inns. The two principal stage houses, just south of the 
state house, are large and commodious — that next the 
state house particularly recommended. There are seve- 
ral others above and below, though of much inferior pre- 
tensions. 

The town is situated principally on one street, which is 
of a great length and very convenient breadth, with many 
respectable bouses ; and runs parallel with the Merrimac, 
Tvhich is at only a short distance on the east. 

The State House 

occupies a conspicuous situation near the middle of the 
town, a little removed from the street, and surrounded by 
a handsome stone wall, enclosing an area. It is built of 
hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edifice, 100 
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and on the 
second the Senate and Representatives' Chambers, with 
the committee rooms, state offices, &c. &c. The view 
from the top is extensive, but embraces a tract of country 
too little cultivated to be rich, and too unvaried to be 
picturesque. At the northward are seen two or three dis" 
tinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of the magni- 
ficent scenery to be presented to the traveller in that di- 
rection. 

The State Prison 

is built at a short distance from the State House, and bears 
a still greater appearance of solidity and strength. 

There is an Academy in Concord, with several churches. 
No less than four newspapers are printed here, and ga- 
zettes from distant places may be found at the inns. Far- 



TRAVELLER. 299 

iner & Moore's Gazetteer of New-Hampshire is the best 
companion for a traveller in this state. 

From what may have been observed of the granite 
rocks along the road, the stranger must have admired 
their superior quality, and the freedom and precision 
of their fracture, wherever the wedge is judiciously ap- 
plied. The fine blocks broken out of the old boulders, 
for the posts of fences, as well as for steps, mill stones, 
&c. must have shown the excellence of the granite of this 
part of the country. The same characteristics, in great- 
er or less degrees, will be found to attend the whole of the 
granite range of the White Mountains, till its last ap- 
pearance about Bath, on Connecticut River. It is un- 
common, in this part of the country, to find a single rock 
formation extending such a distance without any interrup- 
tion. To what difierent dates geologists may hereafter 
refer the coarsest varieties on Mount Washington, the 
disintegrating rocks of Red Mountain, the boulders of 
Winnipiseogee Lake, interspersed with their crystals of 
fieldspar three or four inches in length, and the white, 
fine-grained granite of Concord and Chelmsford, it is not 
for the hasty traveller to inquire. Doubtless many in- 
teresting facts will be elucidated, when scientific men 
shall devote their researches to the subject, and trace the 
boulders along the Ammonoosuc and Winnipiseogee Lake, 
to the rocks and mountains from which some long past 
convulsion has torn them away. 

The Merrimac River has been rendered navigable, 
by various improvements, from Concord to Chelmsford, 
where the Middlesex Canal opens a communication di- 
rectly to Boston, 28 miles. In 1825 a plan was formed 
for extending the improvements, and to render the river 
navigable to Newburyport, on the coast, by making a canal 
round the falls, near Haverhill. The expense was esti- 
mated at $200,000, and it is believed that the sale of wa- 
ter privileges would repay a large part of the sum. 

A direct water communication is kept up between this 
river and Boston, through the Middlesex Canal, by means 
of boats, which carry merchandise down for ^5 a ton, and 
bring it up fur $7. 



3Q0 THE NORTHE^l^ 



Roads. 



Several lines of stage coaches meet in this town three 
times a week. Three go to Boston, one to Portsmouth, 
one to Plymouth, one to Haverhill, and one to Burling- 
ton, by the way of Windsor. Another line has been es- 
tablished between this place and Conway, on the road to. 
the J^otch in the Mountains. 

[From Plymouth a stage wagon goes through Franconia 
Notch to Littleton. The road follows the Pemigewasset, 
through fine, magnificent scenery. The country, how- 
ever, is almost uninhabited until reaching Franconia, 
where are iron works, and a curious profile on a moun- 
tain, called the Old Man of the Mountain. There is an 
excellent inn at Littleton : the new brick one. The place 
is about 40 miles from Plymouth.] 

[Two routes have been proposed for connecting the 
Merrimac and Connecticut: 1st, by Baker's River to 
Wentworth ; and 2d, by way of Sunapee Lake, 810 feet 
above the Connecticut, and 858 above the Merrimac at 
Concord.] 

There is a road on each side of the lake towards Con- 
way, but that on the west is recommended. At all events 
the traveller should spend a day at Centre Harbour, to 
which the road is pleasant and the country agreeable, al- 
though there are but few villages on the way. 

For some miles before reaching that place, the country 
begins to assume the features of bold and mountain 
scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect 
is varied with many of those noble elevations which rise 
to such a height of grandeur and sublimity as the traveller 
proceeds ; and the frequent glimpses afforded between the 
sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a happy 
contrast increase the effect. 



WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. 

The number and diversity of the islands with which the 
lake is spangled, will be objects oi particular admiration. 
Tlipy are countless for multitude, and in size present all 



TUAVELLER. 301 

the gradations between a single rock and a surface suffi- 
cient for several extensive farms. 

Centre Harbour. 

There are two inns here, at either of which the travel- 
ler may find himself comfortable, and where he will be 
amply rewarded, if the weather be fine, by stopping at 
least a day to make an excursion to the top of 

Red Mountain. 

This eminence may be about 1500 feet in height, and 
is accessible for about two- thirds of the way in a carriage 
or on horseback, though not without some difficulty, on 
account of the steepness and roughness of the road. In- 
deed the path is very rocky for half a mile or more before 
reaching the base of the mountain, and the hardy pedes- 
trian will prefer to leave his horse at the main road, be- 
fore turning off by the mill. The traveller should direct 
his course towards a little notch he will see about three- 
quarters of the distance up, where a cultivated field and 
a fence are visible. From the house situated there, he 
must turn towards the left, and follow a path to the sum- 
mit. 

An early visit is recommended, as the scene is much 
improved by an oblique light, and the morning is on seve- 
ral accounts to be preferred. 

The following sketch of the scene was noted down on 
the spot, and may be taken as generally correct. 

View prom Red Mountain. 

J^orth, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a 
pond lying liear it, with the range of the Sandwich 
Mountains behind, stretching off towards the east, with 
numerous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about their 
bases, and enveloped above with forests, excepting their 
summits, which are generally divested of verdure. Fat- 
beyond these appear several loftier peaks, which might 
be mistaken for the White Mountains, were they TisiWc 



302 THE NORTHERN 

from this point. An intermediate peak with rocky preci- 
pices may be White-faced Mountain. 

East- Jforth' East. The eye ranges up the spacious val- -i 
ley through which lies the way to the White Mountains ; : 
and the road which is to conduct the traveller seems di- 
minished to the dimensions of a garden walk. Chocaway, 
or, as it is familiarly called, Corroway Peak, rises on the 
left ; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains be- 
gins nearer at hand on the right, and almost overshadows | 
the observer with its enormous size. The sides of these :] 
mountains show a beautiful display of farms, interspersed 1 
with wood lots and dwellings, which in many places have ? 
encroached far towards the summits, and in others pur- • 
sue the slope of tbe fertile uplands to the valley at their r 
feet. Numerous elevations appear at a greater distance, , 
and range themselves in lines to complete the perspective ; 
of a most magnificent vista, which finally closes at a ridge, ,\ 
whose shade is.reduced by its remoteness to the colour of ll 
a cloud. A prominent and remarkable mountain, which i 
appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket Moun- • 
tain, and rises by the Saco River, near the place where ;' 
Captain Lovell fought bis well-known battle with the In- • 
dians ; and the fine valley between is the country passed 1 
over in that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the ; 
retreat. 

East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, ,j 
and no variety is afforded till we turn to the | 

South' South'East. In that dirction, and farther to the ; 
right, the whole surface of WinnipiseogeeLake lies charm- 
ingly spread out to view, varied by numerous points and I 
headlands, and interspersed with beautiful islands which i 
man despairs to number. Several distant elevations ap- 
pear, on tbis side of which the sloping land just mention- 
ed extends for several miles along the shore, with a well- 
cultivated surface spotted in all directions with large 
barns and farm houses, to the very margin of the lake. 
There numerous points run out far into the water, to 
complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Gunstoc^ 
Mountain rises one point east of south, just on the left of 
which opens the entrance to Merry-meeting Bay, The 
elevated island on the right of that is Rattlesnake 
Inland, named fronr the venemous reptiles with which it 



TRAVELLER. 30S 

abounds ; over this the distant land appears high. South 
I by west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the 
richness of its slopes. 

The South' West and West is agreeably varied with 
wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated 
surface, which extends for many miles, in some places 
quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken bounda- 
ry of tall but distant mountains. In the south-west ap- 
pear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are al- 
most lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen 
several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching 
as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come 
near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring 
mountains. 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface 
between the west and south, with several other little sheets 
of water which lie in tranquillity among the shelter of 
(he hills. 
Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Centre 
I Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. Mer- 
ry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are 
; large, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, 
although only two or three of them belong to any town, 
or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, 
Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also. Half Mile, One 
Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. None of them contain 
churches ; and although they have no school houses, yet 
sufHcient attention is paid to the rudiments of education 
to render the children intelligent.* 



* Winnipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by 
Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. It has been 
proposed to begin this year a canal from Merry-meeting River, 
at the south end, to Dover, a distance of 28 miles, and to con- 
tinue the navigation through this lake, and Long, Square, and 
Little Squaw Lakes, to Merrimac River, making in all a dis- 
tance of 65 miles. It will be necessary to raise the lake two 
feet by a dam at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of about 
17 feet for 7 miles. The estimates have been made for a canal 
of these dimensions : 25 feet wide at the bottom, 4 feet of water, 
with stone locks 12 feet in the clear and 82 feet long. It will 
rpqiiire 60 locks, which will cost {^6.500 each, and the co«^ 



304 THE NORTHEKN 



SquAM Lake 



lies west from Red Mountain, and like Wianipiseogeen 
Lake, abounds not only in islands, but in fish of the finest 
descriptions. Fine trout are caught here in great abunT 
dance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake. 
The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake vary from 1 to 4 pounds 
in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and 
10. They are sometimes caught of nearly double that 
size ; but that is very uncommon. The trout fishery is 
chiefly carried on during the winter, when great quanti- 
ties are salted for the Boston market. Perch also abound 
very much in these waters, and are remarkably fine. 

Geology. 

The sides of Red Mountain are covered with half dcs-J. 
composed granite. (On the south-eastern side of the lake^ 
a bed of porcelain clay has been discovered, which is 
probably derived from a similar source.) The granite is 
speckled with hornblende and black mica. No rocks to 
be seen in situ except near the summit, where they bear a 
gentle dip towards the north, and are slightly tinged wiih. 
reddish quartz and feldspar. 

The hue of the shiubbery in autumn has given thc^ 
mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose 
fragments ; and musquetoes and black flies often abound 
there. 

A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very agrec-t) 
ably, in making shooting and fishing excursions in the 
neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds 
in the most interesting variety of scenes. On leaving 
this place by water, at the distance of five miles the 



from the lake to Dover is computed at ^590,982. If con- 
tinued through the lakes to Merriraac River, to meet a canal 
from Baker's River, the expense would be increased to about 
s^731,478. At that point, tihie distance from the Connecticut 
by Baker's River, is 34 miles. The facilities these works, 
would afford far manufacturing would be very valuable, but 
the number of locks will be a ai'eat obiection. 



TRAVELLER. 305 

White Mountains rise into view above the intermediate 
peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. 

A few deer are still found in some places in the neigh« 
bourhood, but being protected by law, and still more by 
their scarcity, are very rarely taken. 



From Centre Harbour to Conway, 
IS miles. 

Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbour, you enter 
the valley between the two chains of mountains seen from 
the top of Red Hill. The surface is irregular, and much 
of the land uncleared ; but settlements have extended far 
up the sides of some of the mountains, and farms are oc- 
casionally discovered quite at the top. The features of 
the scenery are bold and striking. 

Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly 
from this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road ; 
but it has nothing very interesting in its appearance. 

Conway. 

At Conway, there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, at the 
dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, although 
heretofore without a tavern si^n. The view of the White 
Mountains is very fine from this place, presenting a suc- 
cession of lofty ridges, the most distant of which are the 
peaks of Mounts Washington, Mams, Jefferson, Madison, 
Monroe, and Q,Mincj/. The most prominent elevation on 
the right, with two summits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwa- 
ket : a level meadow lies in the foreground, with an iso- 
lated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which 
rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow 
valley, with many meanderings. 

The shortest road from Conway to the mountains leads 
directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the 
most agreeable route is by the way of Fryeburgh, where 
will be seen the beautiful tract of level country through 
which meanders the Saco River ; and the great Pickwaket 
Mountain, which rises from its border. That was the 
beautiful and favourite residence of the nation of Pick- 



SOG THE NORTHERN 

waket Indians, and on the bank of Lovei's I'ond was 
fought a bloody battle between them and a company of 
troops from Massachusetts, in the year 1725, just a cen- 
tury ago. 

[It is probable that a road will soon be made round the 
north end of the White Mountains, through the town of 
Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is level in that di- 
rection, along the course of the Androscoggin, and the 
distance to Lancaster nearly the same. Whenever it 
shall be completed, it will offer a very agreeable route to 
the traveller, with fine views, but not so wild as those on 
the present route.] 

The Chalybeate Spring. 

Turn off from the road to the west about 2 miles north 
of Abbett's, ford the Saco, and enter a field, where it is 
found. A house is kept in the neighbourhood by Mrs. 
MtMUlan^ which has been lately overflowing with visit- 
ers during the warm season. The country abounds in 
scenes attractive to persons of taste. A little church is 
situated in a secluded and romantic valley ; and the place 
is probably destined for a fashionable resort. 

The place is off the road, and often missed. It is in a 
valley, with mountains on every side except the south- 
east. From near the church, the White Mountains 
are in sight. Two or three miles above, the Saco 
valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a 
narrower one in front. Up the course of this stream 
was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were as- 
cended. A foot path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to 
Shelburne, &c. It is 7 miles to Hall's, in Bartlett. 

Frteburgh. 

The situation of this place is no less singular than de- 
lightful ; and there are some interesting circumstances 
connected with its history which greatly enhance the ef- 
fect of the natural scenery. The township of Fryeburgh, 
in its extent of six square miles, embraces a rich and 
beautiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild ami 
mountainous ranjre of country, a« it is almo-st purrotindef] 



TRAVELLER. 307 

by spurs of the White Hills, whose proximity seems from 
some points of view hardly to permit the passage of the 
narrow stream of the Saco. The river, taking its rise on 
Mount Washington, and flowing through the Notch in the 
White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it 
finds the termination of the southern range ; and then 
turning abruptly to the east, soon enters the charming 
meadows of Fryeburgh, and performs a serpentine course 
of no less than 36 miles within the limits of the town- 
ship. The village is neat, and contains several very 
handsome houses, with an academy, &c. 

The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western 
side of the village, which commands a view of the Saco 
valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. It 
was the favourite resort of the Pickwaket Indians, which, 
in the beginning of the last century, committed depreda- 
tions and atrocities upon the frontiers of New-Hampshire, 
then a part of Massachusetts. The meadows here at that 
period abounded in game of all sorts : for connected with 
the river are numerous ponds or lakes, from 1 to 7 miles 
in length, and some of them 2 in breadth, which were 
well stocked with fish and water fowl, as the shores were 
with birds and beasts, even to the moose and buffalo. It 
is confidently asserted, that the river, with the ponds and 
their outlets, afforded a canoe navigation of 100 miles or 
more in extent, between the entrance of the Saco into 
the township and its departure, although those two points 
are only 2 miles apart. The channel of this river has 
been shortened 19 miles by cutting through a narrow 
ridge of land during a high flood about 20 years ago. 

Lovel's Pond 

is on the isthmus, about 1 mile south-east from the village, 
and is memorable as the scene of one of the most severe 
and disastrous battles in the old partizan warfare against 
the Indians. 

The Portland Road passes along the western side of 
the pond, and at present affords a view of it only from 
that part of the high ground which is near its north end. 
This, however, was the place of the action. Another 



31)8 THE NORTHERN 

road runs very near the north shore j and it is a pleasant 
ride to the place. 

Lovel's Expedition. 

In 1725, Captain Lovel was induced to undertake a se- 
cret expedition through the wilderness against the Pick- 
waket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the French, 
had committed many depredations on the frontier, so that 
the general court of Massachusetts had offered 100 pounds 
each for their scalps. His company consisted of 30 or 40 
men, many of them accustomed to the life of hardy hunt- 
ers and settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, 
whose history was somewhat romantic, and from whom 
this town received its name. 

They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipee 
Pond, where they built a block house, and placed their 
stores ; then following up the course of the Saco, en- 
camped at the mouth of Mill Brook, at the north-west 
corner of Lovel's Pond, on the night preceding the bat- 
tle, intending to cross the isthmus, (which is reduced 
by the pond to the breadth of 1| miles,) and fall upon the 
Indian Fort. It happened, however, that the Indians had 
gone down the Saco River, having, as is conjectured, 
some suspicion of a hostile design ; and on their return, 
discovering tracks, pursued them towards Lovel's Pond. 

The white men, without knowing the enemy were be- 
hind them, were attending morning prayers, when they 
heard a gun fired by a solitary Indian on the opposite side 
of the Pond, who had left the fort, and was shooting 
ducks. They might have marched on and taken the fort ; 
but supposing this to be a signal of their discovery, they 
went a little way, and depositing their packs, soon after 
discovered the Indian, and mortally wounded him. He 
had two ducks in his hand, and tuo fowling pieces, one 
of which being still loaded, he levelled at Lovel, and shot 
him. 

The party now perceived that the Indian was alone, 
and returned ; but the great body of Indians having dis- 
covered the encampment, and the way they had gone, 
removed their packs, and forming an ambush around the 
place, fired upon them on their return, and killed eight 



TRAVELLER. 3Q9 

men. The ground was an open pine plain, with occa- 
sionally a few shrubs and oaks, much as it is at pre- 
sent. The ivhite men retreated. At the north-east cor- 
ner of the pond, is a narrow strip of land, bounded by a 
swamp on the north, the mouth of Fight Brook on the 
east, and the water on the south : the brook and swamp 
were at that time full, and impassable. Here they took 
position behind scattering trees, and defended themselves 
till night. The Indians wounded a few, but dared not come 
upon the neck, only shooting from behind trees on three 
sides of them. 

Chamberlain, a man of great vigour, courage, and ex- 
perience in Indian manners, took the command after 
the loss of Lovel; and by his exertions, probably, saved 
all who finally escaped. Seeing that the Indians annoy- 
ed them from a little rocky projection on the shore west 
of their position, he approached with another among the 
rocks, and drove them back. Afterwards, while washing 
his gun on the margin, he discovered Paugus, the Indian 
chief, employed in the same manner on the shore west of 
him, on the other side of a little bay. Having hunted 
together, they were personally acquainted ; and on a pro- 
position being made, it was agreed to exchange shots. 
Both loaded as expeditiously as possible ; but Chamber- 
lain, having a gun with a large priming hole, merely 
poured in his powder, dropped in the ball, and knocking 
the butt on the ground to fill the pan, fired just as Paugus 
was bringing his piece to his eye, and shot him through. 
The Indian sprung to a great height from the ground as 
he received the fatal ball, and his gun fired in the air as 
he fell dead on the beach. 

The Indians retired on the loss of their chief; but 
Chamberlain soon learnt from their yelling in the woods, 
I that they were preparing another warrior to succeed him 
in authority. Cautiously approaching them through the 
darkness of the evening, he discovered the powaws, or 
priests, consecrating the chief elect ; he shot him dead on 
the spot, while their hands were ufjon his head. This 
dispersed the Indians, and the remains of the unfortunate 
expedition returned through the forest, suffering from 
hunger and fatigue, and some of them fromivounds. One 
of the first wounded escaped bv getting into a canoe, 
Ee2 



310 THE NORTHERN 

which was driven across the pond by a north %vind j but 
a fugitive, who reached the block house at Ossipee 
Lake, reported that the expedition had been entirely cut 
off, so that the garrison hastily removed the provisions, 
and thus increased the sufferings of the survivors. 

In conformity with a very commendable custom lately 
introduced into this country, the centennial return of the 
day of this battle was celebrated at Fryeburgh in 1825. 
An old man, who had learnt many of the particulars from 
some of the members of the expedition, led the inhabit- 
ants and strangers assembled to the ground, and pointed 
out the spots where the circumstances occurred which he 
recounted. 

The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland passes 
through Fryeburgh early in the morning, one or perhaps 
more days in the week, and arrives at P. the same even- 
ing, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and Gorham. 

The coach to Concord goes through Conway. 

[Paris is a pleasant and flourishing town, about 35 
miles east from Fryeburgh ; but the roads and the inns in 
that part of the country are generally poor.] 

Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich 
valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is 
bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. The 
inn of the place is kept by ' Judge Hall. I There is another 
interval among the mountains westward, which, although 
it contains as much good cleared land, has been converted 
into a common, in consequence of the difficulty of making 
a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the nar- 
row valley, against the current of the Saco, the country 
is found uncleared, except two or three pretty little mea- 
dows ; and destitute of inhabitants, excepting only three 
or four poor families, until arriving at 

Crawford's Farm, 

seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the 
traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably entertained, 
although the house does not wear the sign of an inn. 
This is the place from which visiters formerly began their 
excursions to the summit of the mountains : but the best 
place is at Ethav- A. Cr(Ptoford''s fcurm, 12 miles bevond. 



t ADDITIONS in 1327. ] ♦Sli 

Since this brief description of this romantic region was 
written, a tremendous catastrophe has occurred among the 
White Mountains. In the summer of 1S26, a storm 
of rain, unprecedented within the memory of the oldest 
inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the mountains, 
and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and 
plains below, that it is commonly attributed to the 
" bursting of a cloud ;" although that expression is a very 
ill-defined one. The effects produced by the flood will 
remain for centuries ; and as many of these lie exposed 
to the eye, the route will offer many new objects inter- 
esting to an intelligent traveller. It will afford him a 
very desirable opportunity to observe, in some places, 
the structure of the mountains, where their interior 
has been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of earth 
and rocks ; and in others, exemplifications to confirm tho 
modern geognostical theories, to explain the phenomena 
observable in valleys, plains, and the courses of rivers. 
Geologists, and mineralogists too, may expect to meet 
with curious and valuable specimens, among the enormous 
wrecks they will observe on either hand. 

The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the 
channels of the streams ♦vere totally insufficient to admit 
I of the passage of the water, which consequently over- 
flowed the little level valleys at the feet of the moun- 
tains. Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all 
sides ; and such deep trenches wore cut by the rushing 
water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the 
mountains, bearing with them the forests that had covered 
them for ages. Some of these " slides," as they are here 
Ec2t 



♦312 L ADDITIONS in 1827. ] 

popularly denominated, (known among the Alps as 
*' avalanches de terre^^^) are supposed to have been half a 
mile in breadth, and more than a mile in length. Scarcely 
any natural occurrence can be imagined more sublime ; 
and among the devastation which it has left to testify the 
power of the elements, the traveller will be filled with 
awe at the thought of that Being by whom they are con- 
trolled and directed. 

The streams brought away with them immense quan- 
tities of^arth and sand, which the turbid water Ueposiied, 
when any obstacle threw it back, in temporary ponds and 
lakea. The forest trees were also floated down, and may 
now be observed in great numbers, frequently several miles 
from the places where they were rooted up. The timber 
was often marked with deep grooves and trenches, made 
by the rocks which passed over them during their descent 
from the mountains ; and great heaps of trees are depo- 
sited in some places, while in others, the soil of the little 
meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth 
of several feet. 

The turnpike road leading through this romantic coun- 
try, was twenty miles in length, but was almost entirely 
destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon 
it were demolished ; one of them, bhilt with stone, cost $ 
#1000. In some places, the Saco river ran along the road, 
and cut down deep channels. 

The J^otch House^ (which is represented in the frontes- 
piece,) was the scene of a most melancholy tragedy on the 
night above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. 
Several days preyiously a large. "slide" came down 



[ ADDITIONS in 1827. ] *313 

from the mountains behind it, and passed so near as 
to cause great alarm, without any injury to the in- 
mates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, 
whose wife was a young woman of a very interesting cha- 
racter, and of an education not to be looked for in so wild 
a region. They had a number of young children, and their 
family at the time included several other persons, amount- 
ing in all to eleven. They were waked in the night by 
the noise of the storm, or more probably, by the second 
descent of avalanches from the neighbouring mountains ; 
and fled in their night clothes from the house to seek their 
safety, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruc- 
tion. Nothing was found of them for some time : their 
clothes were lying at their bedsides, the house had been 
started on its foundation, by an immense heap of earth 
and timber, which had slid down and stopped as soon 
as it touched it ; and they had all been crushed on 
leaving the door, or borne away with the water that over- 
flowed the meadow. The bodies of several of them were 
never found. A catastrophe so meIanchoIy,and at the same 
time so singular in its circumstances, has hardly ever oc- 
curred. It will alwaj s furnish the traveller with a melan- 
choly subject of reflection. 

There is a place near the ^otch, where the road suffered 
severe injury. It had been built up against the side of a 
mountain, on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and about 30 
yards in extent, at the expense of $500. This whole 
fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks, and 
trees, which came from half a mile up the side of the 
mountain, and, rushing down at an angle of about 45*=', 



■^^14 [ ADDITIONS in 1827. ] 

inrecipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearlj 
300 feet below. 

In repairing this road, the workmen had great difficulty 
in getting to their different sections over the obstructions. 
They expected to find but little daylight at that late season 
of the year ; but they found that the summits of the 
mountains received very early intelligence of morning, 
and the snows reflected it into the valleys and ravines. 

The road through the Notch of the White Mountains 
has been repaired ; the Willey, or Notch House, rebuilt, 
and supplied with provisions. A line of stage coaches was 
expected to run this way, in the summer of 1827, from 
Portland to Burlington, through Montpelier. 

The road round the mountains, through Adams, is also 
opened, joining the Notch road at Conway; a road 
through Shelburne, Gilead, Bethel, Albany, Waterford, 
and Bridgetown; and another from Bethel to Norway 
through Greenwood. 

The Franconia Notch road has also been finished ; and 
the distance from Portland to Connecticut river is nearly 
the same by these five routes. ^ 

Winnipiseogee Lake. {See page 300.) It is intended to 
ru a small steam-boat on this delightful lake for towing 
boats, and with accommodations for passengers. An 
excursion in ii wiU be very pleasant. 



TRAVELLElt. 311 

Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- 
sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first 
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown 
moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of ve- 
getation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these 
from the other elevations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as 
to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely 
to be found a few miles further north. The forests 
are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar ma- 
ple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 100 acres cleared, and 
raises Indian corn very well, which will not come to ma- 
turity beyond. His orchard contains 700 apple trees. 

This is one of the principal stopping places for the 
sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers du- 
ring the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. There are 
sometimes 80 horses in the barn. 



The Notch House 

is situated in a secluded little valley, about 5 miles north 
of Crawford's, and is the only building seen in a distance 
of 12 miles. It is, however, never inhabited during the 
summer season, though open, with its cheerless shelter, 
to all comers : in the winter a family occupies it to keep 
a fire, lodgings, and a little food, provided for the travel- 
lers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want 
of the necessaries of life. 

The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth culti- 
vating ; and although the place has been occupied by 
several tenants, no one will keep the house in repair, 
even rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there 
being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly colder than 
at the last stopping place. 

The road rises ^vith a steep ascent for a considerable 
distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller 
observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous 
mountain, at a distance on the west side of the valley, 
and the other, which is called 



3i2 THE NORTHERN 



The Flume, 



rushing down on the right hand, and crossing the road 
under a bridge. The scenery is sublime and impressive 
beyond description. 

The Notch 

is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path 
and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet 
in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and the Am- 
monoosuc spring from fountains on Mount Washington, 
within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though the former 
empties into the Atlantic, and the latter joins Connecti- 
cut River. Another branch of the Ammonoosue ap- 
proaches the Saco in one place, within about 600 yards. 
They are both crossed beyond the Notch. The head 
ivaters of the Merrimac rise within about a mile and a 
half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little 
less remarkable than that of the Saco. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable passage, 
one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in perpendicular 
height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 yards 
from the north end ; where they open to 30 feet. The 
part which appears to have been cut through is about 120 
feet long. A little meadow opens beyond ; and after a 
ride of 4^ miles, the traveller reaches a comfortable house, 
just completed by Mr. E. A. Crawford, where he will be 
received and entertained, 

A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It 
was 50 or 60 fest higher than the present turnpike, and 
so steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons 
up with ropes. The assessment for the turnpike was made 
in 1806. 

Ethan Crawford's House 

is the place where those who meditate the ascent of 
Mount Washington, will stop for a day or more. The 
master of the house will act as a guide, and is well quali- 
fied for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with 
the v.'av, and the various kind attentions and amusing 



TRAVELLER. 313 

anecdotes with which he knows how to relieve the (e- 
diousness of the ascent. Tbe best arrangement is to set 
Out in the afternoon, spend the night at the weekwam or 
" Campy'' ascend the mountain early in the morning, to 
have the benefit of the view by sun rise, and return to 
Crawford's before the ensuing evening. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most ardu- 
ous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, though 
three ladies have lately been enumerated among those 
Tvho gained the summit. The whole way lies through a 
perfect forest. A foot path has been made by Mr. Craw- 
ford, which, however, is impassable for a horse. The 
first seven miles are over a surface comparatively level ; 
but the last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not 
differing much from an angle of forty-five degrees. 

The time to perform the different parts of this excur- 
sion may be estimated as follows : 

hours. 

From Crawford's to the Camp, 6| m. 3 

Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2^ 

Returning from summit to Camp, \\ 

Thence to Crawford's, 2^ 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to 
be crossed seven times, add not a little to the inconve- 
niences of tbe journey ; but a comfortable bed, and a fire, 
(if the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at 

The Camp, 

6| miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of different 
kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful 
fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season 
is favourable, a dish of fine trout may soon be obtained 
from the romantic little stream which dashes by within 
twenty yards of the encampment. 

The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand, 
and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to attain 
the summit, which seems to fly before the stranger when 
he deems it just attained, and to look down in derision 



314 THE NORTHERN 

from a new and more hopeless height. The first part o( 
the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which 
is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled 
fir-trees, 10 or 15 feet high, andSOrods, or about 450 yards 
broad ; which, ending as suddenly as they began, give 
place to a kind of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of 
moss, not half sufiicient to conceal the immense granite 
rocks which deform the surface. For more than a mile, 
the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few straggling 
spiders, and several species of little flowering plants are 
the only objects that attract the attention, under the feet. 

The following heights are stated to be those of the dif- 
ferent peaks, above the level of Connecticut River at 
Lancaster. 

Washington, 5,350 

Jefferson, 5,261 

Adams, 5,383 

Madison, 5,039 

Monroe, 4,932 

Quincy 4,470 

Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6400 
feet above the ocean. 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and almost 
boundless. The finest part of it lies towards the south-' 
east and south. Looking down the valley, through which 
the road has conducted us, a fine succession of mountain- 
ous summits appear for many miles below the bright sur- 
face of Winnipiseogee Lake. 

Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an ex- 
tent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Moun- 
tains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, and towns, 
add their variety to the natural features of the country ; 
and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the 
help of a telescope, although the charpest sight perhaps 
has never been able to distinguish it without such assist- 
ance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of 
Maine ; and nearer. Level's Pond. 

On the north-east is seen the valley of the Androscog- 
gin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, 
and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in their 
hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach the 
eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and New- 



TRAVELLER. ,il^ 

Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the ex- 
tremity of Maine, 

JSTorth, the country is more wild and uncultivated ; and 
Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the Androscog- 
gin. 

Westf the nearer view is over a mountainous region, 
covered with a thick forest, through which only an occa- 
sional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or 
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills 
are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut 
River, the surface of which is every where hidden from 
view, and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate 
in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. 

South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. 

The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name 
of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inaccessible, or at 
least represented them so to white men. 

The Lake of the Clouds 

is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of 
beautiful clear water ; and siipplies the head stream of 
the Ammonoosuc River. This little current immediately 
begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of 
several thousand feet, into the valley near the encamp- 
ment. 

Geology. 

Loose fragments of granite are every where scattered 
over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The 
granite is generally gray, and at first fine grained, but 
grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled 
with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains 
a little black tourmaline, sometimes in crossing crystals. 
On the summit also, some of the granite is tinged with 
red, although much of it is coloured bright green by lich- 
ens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- 
spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the 
coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter 
as very singular, is, that not a single rock is to be found 
in its original place — every thing bears the mark of re- 
moval : and this, <aken into view with the preripice or 



3ia THE NORTHERN 

the northern side, seems to indicate that tbe summit of 
the mountain has fallen down and disappeared. 

General Remarks. 

All travellers of taste and leisure will be desirous of 
spending some time among the impressive scenery of these 
stupendous mountains ; and as the accommodations for 
strangers become enlarged and improved, the place cannot 
fail to attract great numbers of visiters. 

Those who take delight in scenes of this description, 
always feel an additional gratification when they can re- 
flect, that the mountains around them are the highest, 
and the region the most wild and uninhabited. In such 
reflections the traveller may indulge among the White 
Hills : for although the peaks of Ktardin, and Speckled 
Mountain, in Maine, have been, by some, compared with 
Mount Washington ; it has been done on mere conjec- 
ture, and with little appearance of probability. The ge- 
neral belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above 
us is the highest elevation in North America, except 
Mexico ; although some of the Rocky Mountains are but 
little inferior. The inhospitable nature of the climate is 
such as to forbid all hopes of future improvement ; so 
that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and 
desolate character of this desert region, is increased by 
the reflection, that it is destined to be a wilderness for 
ever. 

The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart ; 
of the mountains, are the little meadows inhabited by 
tbe Crawfords, and that at the '■'■ J^oUh House;" and ! 
there the interval of warm weather is so short in the 
year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all I 
the rapidity of growth which distinguishes such cold 
regions. Indeed, the shortness and uncertainty of crops, 
with the expense of keeping stock, &c. would scarcely 
allow the farmer a support, without the advantages afford- 
ed by the thoroughfare which is particularly great during 
the winter season. Population, therefore, may extend to 
the borders of these regions, and increase, as it does, oil i 
every side ; but it cannot pass the limit, because it can- 
not contend with their coldness and Ptcrilifv. 



TRAVELLER* 317 

To those who are fond of field sports, the forests and 
rivers afford every advantage, during the brief summer 
which visits the valleys. Various kinds of wild birds and 
game are to be found in the woods, beside the bears^ 
wild cats, and deer. The moose and buffalo were for- 
merly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely 
thirty years since they were killed jn great numbers, 
merely for their hides and tallow ; as the latter still 
are in the deserts beyond the Mississippi. Deer are 
common in the woods, and frequently are killed b> the 
hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the 
little meadow before Crawford's house, and quietly graze 
with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally seen in 
the more unfrequented places ; but they will always en- 
deavour to avoid a man. A large species of deer, here 
known by the name of the Cariboo, has made its appear- 
ance in the White Mountains within a few years ; but 
they are still very lew in this part of the country. 

The weather is liable to frequent changes in the moun- 
tainous region, which is partly owing to the vicinity of 
the JSTotch, through which the wind blows, almost without 
ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short 
distance from it. From the situation of the mountains, 
it is impossible that the direction of the wind should vary 
materially in the valley ; and it is therefore, of course, 
always north or south. During the winter it is often 
very violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from 
lying on the path at the Notch ; but the surface is swept 
of every thing that a strong wind can remove. 

The summits of the mountains are frequently invested 
with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only who in- 
habit the vicinity, are able to tell whether the day is to be 
favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect 
in the valleys, and then present some of the most singular 
and beautiful appearances. 

Ethan Crawford's is 4? miles from the Notch, 12 from 
his father's : and on the other side, 6 from Rosebrook's. 

Roads. There are two roads hence, to Connecticut 
River; one over Cherry Mountain (quite laborious) to 
Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton Woods, 
Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to Bath, 34 
mil^?. r.See In flex J 

Ff 



318 THli NORTHEUN 

TOUR OF MAINE. 

A line of Steam Navigation was commenced in 1 823, 
between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and extended in 
1324, about 250 miles from Bath to Eastport in one di- 
rection, and about 40 miles to Augusta in another ; and 
in 1S25, again about ' miles from Eastport to St. John's, 
in New-Brunswick, by proprietors residing at Eastport ; 
and from St. John's up the Kiver St. John's about 80 miles 
to Frederickton, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and 
in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, from 
Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to St. Andrew's 
and Calais. Two boats were afterwards put upon a line 
from Eastport to Annapolis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia. 
Another boat is to run from Eastport to Dennisville, 
a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The line before occupied, 
including all its collateral branches and ramifications, ex- 
ceeds 500 miles, and is now about 700 miles. 

It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across 
Cape Ann, to admit the steam boats, which will save 15 
miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, directly 
or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newburyport, 
Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. 

The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so 
near the shore as to afford many interesting views of 
the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound 
along the coast. In 1825, the steam brig New- York was 
on this line, and the price was, from Boston to Portland, 
^5 ; thence to Eastport, $6, with a deduction for forward 
passengers. 

There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the 
morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve- 
nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well 
worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient, 
the stranger would be gratified with several rides in the 
vicinity of that place, particularly to Marblehead. 

Lynn, 9 miles from Boston. 

This town is devoted to making shoes ; great numbers 
of which are annually exported. Each house, almost 
without exception, has a little shop connected with it, in 



TRAVELLER, 319 

Tvhich the men and boys employ themselves in this manu- 
facture. 

The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been 
made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fashion- 
able retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering an 
excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. 
The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the 
famous sea serpent was seen several years ago. 

There is a good inn in the town, where the stage coach- 
es stop. 

The country beyond is rather hilly and uninteresting ,' 
but the road is good. 

Beverly 

is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently to 
form a part of it. It has a long street through which we 
pass, nearly at the foot of a high, barren hill. This emi- 
nence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; as it is 
the spot where numerous persons condemned for that 
crime, in Salem, were executed. 

SALEM. 

The La Fayette Hotel. 

This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beauti- 
ful towns in New-England, It was one of the earliest 
settlements made in Massachusetts Bay ; and the planting 
of the colony is annually celebrated. Governor Endicott, 
one of the most distinguished individuals in the early his- 
tory of this part of the country, resided here. 

Salem was for many years engaged in an extensive and 
lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and the 
appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it still 
contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is fine, and 
the wharves still well supplied with stores ; but the trade 
of the place has materially dijpinished. The streets are 
generally too narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices, 
and churches, are many of them handsome buildings. 
The Square is a large and beautiful tract of ground, near 
the centre of the town. About it are seen many of 
the finest private buildings in the place^ which, indeed, 



320 THE NORTHERN 

may be compared for size and elegance, with those in any 
pari of the United States. 

The Marine Mnsetim is an institution highly creditable 
to the town, being an association of respectable nautical 
and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose of 
making useful observations, and collecting curiosities from 
all quarters of the world. No one can become a member 
who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good 
Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; and 
each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to 
note down such remarks as he thinks important, during 
his voyages. These are submitted to the inspection of a 
committee ; and the curiosities brought home are deposit- 
ed in a handsome building belonging to the society, which 
is well worthy of the particular attention of strangers. 

Access is readily gained by application to any of the 
members : this extensive and highly interesting cabinet 
being closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee 
being required for admission. The room is large, and 
well lighted, and filled with curiosities from all quarters 
of the world, and many specimens belonging to all the 
branches of natural history. The arrangement is made 
with great tasje, and several hours, or indeed days, will 
hardly be sufficient for an examination of all it contains. 

The top of the hotel commands a fine and extensive 
view, over the town and its environs, with the harbour, 
and the fine coves which set up on both sides. A project 
has been formed for connecting the two bodies of water 
which form the peninsula, by means of a canal, which 
would furnish great, and very desirable manufacturing 
facilities. 

Marblehead. 

There is a good road to this town, which stands at the 
end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from Sa- 
lem. It contains a handsome square, and some very good 
houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fishermen, whose 
manner of life precludes in, a great degree, the intellec- 
tual improvement generally so characteristic of New-Eng- 
land. The harbour is a small bay, protected by barren 
rocks, and affords shelter to the numerous fishing schoo- 



TRAVELLER. 321 

ners employed in the Cod fishery. The men and boys 
are absent from home a great part of the year ; as each 
vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, or "faresy" as 
they are here called, every season. They lie on the Banks 
until they have caught a load of fish, which are opened 
and salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return, 
and the fish are spread to dry on wooden frames, called 
flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the shore. 
There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which com- 
mands the entrance to the harbour, and affords a view of 
many miles over the neighbouring sheets of water. The 
islands at the entrance of Salem are wild and rocky ; and 
the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly 
storm. Towards the south are seen several headlands 
of this iron-bound coast ; which for a great extent, even 
down to the extremity of Massachusetts, must have ap- 
peared one of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims, who 
began their settlements on this part of New-England. 



Newburyport. 

Stage House or Merrimac Hotel, on the hill. This is a 
large, and to a considerable extent a regularly built tov/n, 
38 miles from Boston. The greater part of it lies in 
squares, and the best streets are built entirely of brick. 
What is commonly called Newburyport, however, is com- 
posed of two distinct towns. The original township of 
Newbury includes that part, which reaches to within 
about a quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the rest, a 
mile along the water, where the wharves, the market 
building, most of the stores, shops, &e. are found, is all 
which is properly speaking called Newburyport, although 
there is no division but an imaginary line. 

The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at 
the head of a street running to rhe river. 

The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a brisk 
and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered severely from 
two great fires, within a few years, and still more from 
circumstances which cut off the trade. A plan is now ma- 
turing for the improvement of the navigation of the Mer- 
rimac, which, if carried into effect, can hardly fail to pro- 
Ff 2 



322 THE NORTHERN 

duce results of great importance to the place. The falls 
at Haverhill cut oft the boat navigation, at the distance of 
about 12 miles ; but if these were avoided by a canal, the 
water communication would be opened to Concord, and a 
great part of the products now sent to Boston, by the 
Middlesex Canal, would come to Newburyport. It is es- 
timated, that the work would cost about two hundred 
thousand dollars, and that the water power it would fur- 
nish for machinery might be sold for about an equal sum. 

Stage Coaches. The mail coach from Boston for 
Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M. 
There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels only 
by day light The Concord coach leaves here about noon. 

The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a tavern, about 
half a mile from the stage house, on the road to Ports- 
mouth. The garden was formerly curiously ornamented 
with wooden statues of distmguisbed individuals. 

The bridge over the Merrimac has a little rocky island 
for its buttress. The current is strong, and just north of 
it are several places where the channel appears once to 
have been. 

Hampton, 10 miles. 

Portsmouth, 
62 miles from Boston, 53 from Portland. 

Brown's Stage House. 

The environs of the town show many neat and pleasant 
houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally 
of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although 
the streets are generally too narrow. It has been a place 
of much commerce. The old church is a specimen of old 
times. The Navy Yard, on an island opposite the town, 
contains two large ship buildings, one for frigates and the 
other for line-of-battle ships. 

The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state of 
Maine, which was, until within three or four years, a dis- 
trict of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The 
navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c. 

Amesburt. The two Flannel Manufactories, seen at a 
flistance on the west, (on the Pownw River, which h»s 



THAVELLEIi. 323 

fall of 30 or 40 feet,) were expected to manufacture in 
826, more than 20,000 pieces of flannel : in all a million 
f yards. 

The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, ge- 
erally very poor, without trees, and changing only from 
and to rocks ; and affords very few objects of interest, 
xcept an occasional view of the sea shore, and several 
pots remarkable for their connexion with the history of 
lie country. 

York. 

There are some pleasant fields about this little place, 
ut its size is insignificant, particularly when contrasted 
rith anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its 
rst settlement : for the ground was laid out for a city, 
nd the divisions of the land still retain much of the regu- 
ir form given it by the first surveyors. 

The Nubble is' a rocky point, 4^ miles from York, 
'ith a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in de- 
ision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock, from a 
oint of that name still further on. 

While travelling along this dreai-y country, near the 
lace where a round hill of a peculiar appearance first 
resents itself in front, and then the ocean, the road 
asses the site of an old fort or block house, built before 
hilip's war. Nothing is now to be seen of it from the 
sad, excepting a part of the old wall, which is built of 
irge stones, laid with greater regularity than is practised 
ow. A hovel stands near the wall, shaded by a few 
•ees, about 100 yards west of the road. 

The Agamenticus Hills form a range some distance 
rest. 

Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- 
jnded by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a 
ock ; but it is almost dry at low water. 

Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on the 
each, in front of the tavern. Porpoise Point is just 
istinguishable in the north-east ; and the view of the sea 
s fine and refreshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hn.t, over which falls 



a2.4 THE NORTIIEKN 

n small stream, from the height of 30 feet, aijout 40 yarditij 
from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, a small tribe) 
of Indians met an indiscriminate destruction, in the foKl 
lowing manner. Being on their return from their annual 
fishing excursion on the upper part of the stream, they des- 
patched some of their number to make a fire on the rock 
which divides the falls, as they found they should not reach 
this place before night. The white men in the neighbour- 
hood by some means learning their design, shot the mes- 
sengers, and then coilecti*;g the limbs of trees, made a 
great fire on the high bank below on the opposite side oi 
the road. The Indians, says the story, being deceived, 
did not attempt to stop their canoes in season, and were 
all carried over the falls and killed. A similar tale is re- 
lated, with more appearance of credibility, of the falls on 
the Androscoggin River. 

The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of 
a mile northerly from the church. The site is distin- 
guished by the angle of an old wall, built of large, regular,! 
but unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The 
marks of^ the foundation appear to be yet visible a little 
back, and the situation is very pleasant, with a smooth plain 
around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little mea- 
dow, where the settlers used to obtain their hay. The 
ocean is in full view below. This little fortress wa> 
once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first supposed, 
as was the fact, that the men were absent from home. 
The place was, however, very bravely and successfully de- 
fended by five women, who put on tlieir husbands clothes, 
and fired so warmly upon their invaders, as to force themi 
to retreat. 

Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland. Here the maili 
coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small 
place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade 
with the West Indies. 

Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this 
village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount 
Washington. Cutts's Island of 75 acres divides the stream, 
just at the falls, and is to be converted to manufacturing 
purposes. 

The soil here is very rocky, easily furnishing ma- 
terials for building, which has already commerced on 



TRAVELLER. 325 

a large scale. The fall is about thirty feet, the water 
abundant at all seasons, and a landing place for vessels 
I only a few yards distant, which will greatly favour the 
transportation of raw and manufactured articles. The 
•land bought in 1825 on the island, with a portion of the 
(water power, cost about $100,000. Great quantitie»s 
i of timber have long been sawn at these falls. 



PORTLAND, 15 miles. 

I 

1 Mitchell's Hotel. The Stage house. 

The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occupy- 

, ing the ridge and side of a high point of land with a hand- 
some, though shallow bay, on one side, and the harbour 

, on the other. The anchorage is protected on every side 
by land, the water is deep, and the communication with 
the sea direct and convenient. Congress-street runs along 
the ridge of the hill, and contains a number of very ele- 

, gant private houses. There is also the Town Hall, with 

. the market below, aud a beautiful new church, with gra- 
nite columns. The steps are fine blocks of granite, 

', 6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22 
miles distant, and cost about $40 each. This street rises, 

I as it approaches the end of the neck or promontory, to the 
Observatory, a tower 82 feet high, and, with its base, 142 

. feet above the water, which commands an extensive and 

., very fine view on every side. 

From the Observatory, south and south-west are se- 
veral distant eminences : among others, the Agomenticus 

: Hills ; north-west are seen, in clear weather, the lofty 

I ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New-Hampshire, 
which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land 
appears in sight. The country on the north presents little 
that is interesting, and the water nearer at hand is only 
an inlet of the sea. 

Cape Elizabeth is the high land on the south side of 
the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its en- 
trance, are called Bangs's and House Islands. Fort Pre- 
ble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a block 
house, on the latter. It is proposed by the United States 



326 THE NORTHERN 

to expend $105,000 in enlarging these defences. Due 
east is Seguin Light House, which is visible, in clear wea- 
ther, 32 miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec. 
Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous islands of 
various forms and divided by little channels and bays, 
some of which are deep. They are generally covered 
with trees and rocks, but present a beautiful variety to 
the view in that direction. Their number is not known, 
but is usually estimated at 365, to correspond with that of 
the days in the year. 

The entrenchments on the hill, west of the observatory, 
belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made in 
the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, on the water's 
edge, is Fort Burroughs. 

Falmouth (the former name of Portland,) was burnt 
in the Revolutionary war, by Capt. Mowatt, in the Bri- 
tish sloop of War Canceau, on the 18th of October, 1775, 
on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms. 
About 130 houses, three-quarters of all the place con- 
tained, were consumed, some being set on fire with 
brands, after a cannonade and bombardment of 9 hours. 
The old church is among the buildings saved, and has the 
mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitchell's 
hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed. 

There are some fine stores and dwelling houses in the 
middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves 
and shipping : for the place is beginning to prosper again, 
although it has lost an extensive trade Avhicb it cannot 
recover. There is a small Micseum. in the place. 

Remarks to the Travellep. at Portland. The 
Boston Mail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, anct 
reaches Boston at 9 P. M. the Accommodation at 8, and 
arrives next day, stopping for the night at Portsmouth. 

The communication with Dover, Concord, &c. is easy, 
and the traveller going in that direction, is referred to the 
index for those and other places in his way. He may take 
the route to the White Hills by Fryeburgh ; the road 
leads through a wild and thinly populated country, but is 
not devoid of interest. The stage coach reaches Conway 
in a day by this route, passing through Gorham, Standish, 
T>aWv/in, Hiram, and Fryeburgh. 



TiiAVELLER. 3^7 

The eastern and north-eastern routes only,'remain to 
be spoken of. The load along the sea coast is more un- 
interesting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recommended 
in going from Portland. The upper road leads through a 
considerable extent of fertile country, indeed the garden 
of Maine, and shows several pleasant and flourishing vil- 
lages, by which it may be more agreeable to return. The 
settlement of a great part of that region, still, is so 
recent, that the traveller will not find so good accommo- 
dations, nor so many objects of interest, as in many other 
parts of the country. The inhabitants, however, are in- 
creasing very rapidly, and great improvements of every 
kind are annually introduced, which produce a scene of 
great activity and prosperity, particularly between the 
Kennebec and Penobscot Rivers. 



Remarks on the Country North-East FRoai 
Portland. 

In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of 
Maine, the improvement of the country has been much 
retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early as 
1G07, and several others not long afterwards : but they 
sufiered severely in the Indian wars, and their vicinity to 
the French missions, tvhich embraced all the eastern part 
of the present stats, exposed them to imminent danger. 
In later times the population was principally confined to 
the sea coast, for the convenience of fishing and com- 
merce, and thus the good land, which lies some distance 
back in the country, was almost entirely neglected. After 
the Revolutionary war, this extensive region remained in 
the condition of a district belonging to Massachusetts. 
AVithin three or four years it has been received into the 
Union, as a separate state ; and agriculture having beefi 
introduced, the emigration from the neighbouring states 
has rapidly swelled its population. 

In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the same 
order of things as in the interior of New- York, Ohio, and 
other parts of the country, which are fast improving. It 
is but a few year? since agriculture Avas almost unknown 



32S THE NORTHERN 

here, and now the interior region between the Kennebec 
and Penobscot Rivers is well peopled, and presents a scene 
of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That 
is of course the most attractive route for the traveller ; 
and the road from Portland lies through Augusta and 
Hallowell. Those who are going to New- Brunswick, &c. 
are advised to take this route, unless they prefer the lesa 
fatiguing mode of travelling in the steam boat. 

Most persons going eastward from Portland, will wish 
to return ; and the brief tour which we shall give will be 
planned for their convenience and pleasure, by proceed- 
ing first along the sea coast, and then returning through 
the fine tract of country in the interior. 

It may be proper here to mention, that two roads are 
to be surveyed this year to Quebec : one by the hiver 
Kennebec, and the other by the Penobscot. At present 
there are no roads through the northern wilderness, 
though a communication has been kept up that way for 
several years, and herds of cattle are occasionally driven 
into Canada. The hardy and enterprising traveller may, 
perhaps, be willing to encounter the inconvenience of 
lodging in the open air, and such fare as the wilderness 
affords ; but few will attempt the route for pleasure, until 
the intended improvements shall have been made. 

For the distances of the principal places on the route i 
from Portland to Quebec, see page 222. 



Canals projected in Maine. 

From Sebago Pond to Portland. This would re- 
quire an excavation of only 6 miles, to effect a commu- 
nication between a chain of ponds or lakes, capable 
of furnishing large supplies of timber, and many pro- 
ducts of agriculture, if their settlement were once 
encouraged. 

From the Androscoggin at Wayne's Mills, to the Ken- 
nebec at Gardner. There is a dead water navigation to 
within five miles of the former, but then there is an as- 
cent of 260 feet to the level of it^ current 



TRAVELLER. ^29 



Bangor, &c. 



Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass 
through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at 
Brunswick, 26 miles. This is the site of Bowdoin College, 
the principal institution of the state. It was burnt two 
or three years ago, and contained, in 1825, 120 students. 

The whole road from Portland to Bath, 34 miles, lies 
along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor. 

Bath 

is a town of considerable trade, situated on the KennebeCj 
at the distance of sixteen miles from the sea. Here are 
several public buildings, and among the rest, two banks, 
Woolwich is opposite Bath. 

WiSCASSET, 

14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports of 
the state, and has an excellent harbour, at the mouth of 
the Sheepscot River. 

Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Penobscot. 
They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Waldobo- 
rough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Belmont. There 
are two branch lines : one to Thomastown through War- 
ren ; and another to Hamden, through Camden, Lincoln* 
shire, Norlhport, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. 

From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; but 
the ride presents many interesting views, as the landscape 
is continually changing, and is often varied by the sight 
of Damascotta River, and several beautiful little lakes or 
ponds. 

Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable village, 
at the distance of 16 miles from the sea coast. 

Booth Bay 

lies off the road from Wiscasset to Damascotta. It hsLs 
a commodious harbour, with a number of islands in 
the vicinity ; and the neighbouring high ground afibrds 
a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the east» 
ern side of the bav, was surveyed for a city in the 



330 THE NORTHERN 

early part of the last century, -vhich was to have bornf> 
the name of Townsend, but the building of it was never 
begun. The harbour has been considered a good site for 
a naval depot. 

Antiquities. Two or three miles off the road, be- 
tween Linniken's Bay and Darnascotta River, where 
was formerly an Indian carrying place, the remains of 
cellar walls and chimneys are found, as also broken kettles, 
wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of two 
or three large vessels sunk in the water; and on the shore, 
the ruins of an old grist mill, where the present one 
stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other 
ruins, the history of which is unknown, as well as that of 
those already mentioned. The only fact which seems to 
afford any clew to their origin, is, that Sir John Popham 
made an attempt to build a town at the mouth of the Ken- 
nebec, in the year 1607. 

Waldoborough, 10 miles. 

Warren, 7 miles. 

TlIOMASTOWN, 

Centre Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of marble 
and lime stone, from the latter of which about 100,000 
barrels of lime are made every year for exportation. 
The marble is also wrought in considerable quantities. 
A visit to the work shops may be interesting, as the 
operation of polishing is performed by machinery moved 
by water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River. 
The village is 15 miles from the sea. 

The State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- 
sant situation. It has 50 solitary cells, built of granite, 
in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 in thickness. 
Each cell has an opening at the top, with small holes in 
the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, during the 
winter season, is warmed before it is admitted. The 
Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories 
high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each 
side. The prison yard is surrounded by a circular v/ooden 
paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime. 
quarry. Several workshops on the ground serve the pur- 



TRAVELLER. 331 

poses of the convicts, who are employed in burning lime 
and other manufactures. 

The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the State 
Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox. 
The mansion was three stories high, large, and elegant, 
particularly for a country so little cultivated and inhabited 
as this at the time of its erection. It is now in a 
state of great decay ; but some of the remaining decora- 
tions of the grounds may give an idea of its original ap- 
pearance. The approach to the house is through a cy- 
press grove ; and in front of it extends a handsome grass 
plat. General Knox was one of Washington's principal 
officers, and acted a conspicuous part in the Revolutionary 
war. 

From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road 
is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, with 
a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated country 
on the left, with some mountainous scenes. Belfast is a 
flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the side of a hill. 
The road hence to Castine, round the bay, is 35 miles, 
passing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland and Penob- 
scot. 

(Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and 
the British entrenchments are to be seen on the hill 
above.) 

The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course 
©f the Penobscot River. 

Bangor 

is a very flourishing village, newly risen into import- 
ance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of the 
interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a commanding 
position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to ex- 
perience a great and rapid increase, proportionfifl to the 
extension of settlements in the upper country. The 
number of inhabitants increased between 1820 and 
1825, from 1221 to 2002. The scenery here begins 
to assume much of that mountainous character, which 
prevails so extensively through a larg^ part of the in- 
terior. A very conspicuous and noble eminence is ob^ 
served at a distance in the north, caMedKtardm Mmntam, 
the elevation of which has never, it is beheved, been ac- 



332 THE NORTHEKN 

curately ascertainetl. It is considered the highest lam, 
in the state, and has been compared for altitude with 
Mount Washington in N. Hampshire: whether with jus- 
tice or not, a scientific measurement will determine. 

In the year 1825, the land agents visited a tract of 
country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who 
had been before unknown as belonging to the state, having 
never been represented in the legislature, or included many 
census. They are partly descendants of refugees, and 
partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch. The vast tract 
of wilderness intervening between them and the lower 
country had prevented intercourse. Their country is rich 
and beautiful, on the St. John's River, near the boundary 
of N. Brunswick ; and many of them desired to be re- 
ceived Into the jurisdiction of the State Government. 

The opening of a road along the course of the Penob- 
scot to Quebec, by the way of St. John's, the survey of 
which was authorized this year, cannot fail to accelerate 
the settlement of this country, and to increase the value 
and the products of the soil. It will also prove hereafter 
a rery convenient route for travellers going to and from 
Canada, and doubtless form a part of the grand northern 
tour, which will then be complete. 

From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking 
the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. 
The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, lies 
through a region rapidly improving under the management 
of an active, industrious, and increasing population. The 
value of the soil has greatly advanced %vithin a short time, 
and it is the grand centre of emigration. There is ano- 
ther road to Hallowell through Bath. Coaches travel 
each way three times a week. 

Augusta is a considerable town and very flourishing. 
It is situated at the falls of the Kennebec, where the wa- 
ter and the descent of the channel is sufficient to set in 
motion several hundred wheels, and will probably be 
hereafter extensively employed for manufacturing purposes. 

PKirscQT Falls. Near Lewistown, on the Androscog- 
gm River, is a lemarkable cataract, where the current 
breaks through a rhnge of mountains, and pours over a 
broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and striking ; 



* rRAVELLEIl. 333 

and derives ao'^^^'^^^"'^^ interest, from its connexion 
with the histo«<^^ ^ t"'^^ o^ Indians, long since extinct. 
Accordinr^o a tradition current in the neighbourhood, 
the upper'i''*^ of this stream were formerly the residence 
of the lockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fer- 
tile pl«in through which the river winds. The situation 
was -emote, and they had never engaged in any hostilities 
Tvkh the whites, but devoted themselves to hunting and 
fishing. The ground still contains many remains of their 
weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length 
persuaded to engage in a hostile incursion against Bruns- 
wick, at that time an exposed frontier settlement ; and 
the whole tribe embarked in their canoes to accomplish 
the enterprise. The stream flows gently on for a great 
distance, until it approaches very near to the falls ; and 
this was the spot appointed for the night encampment. 
Night set in before their arrival ; and they sent two men 
forward to make fires upon the banks a little above the 
cataract. For some unknown reason the fires were 
kindled below the falls ; and the Indians being thus de- 
ceived concerning their situation, did not bring up their ca- 
noes to the shore in season, and were carried over the rocks, 
and the tribe all destroyed together. Their bodies, it is 
said, were carried by the stream down to the village they 
had intended to attack. 

The hills near the falls afford many evidences of having 
been the residence of Indians, who were cut off by the 
whites, in a sudden attack, many years ago. 



Gk2 



SUPPLEMENT. 



CHARLESTON, South Carolina. 

This is a place £iom which many travellers will set out, 
who intend to visit ihose parts of the country to which 
this volume relates. The numerous and commodious 
packets which pass between Charleston and New- York, 
afford frequent opportunities of communication. The 
road to the northern states is so long and tedious, with so 
few good inns, and so few objects of interest, that many 
prefer the voyage. 

Charleston has some fine streets, wii\« many elegant 
houses ; and the inhabitants bear a high character for 
hospitality and friendliness to strangers. The climate 
offers many attractions at some seasons of the year, as 
there is an abundance of fine fruit cultivated in the gar- 
dens, among which the fig makes a very conspicuous 
figure. 

The Orphan Ashxm 

is an institution highly creditable to the city, being, as it 
is said, the largest establishment of the kind in the U. S. 

The Circular Church 

is a building of great size and a singular form. 

Fort Moultrie, 

on Sullivan's Island, is famous for a desperate and suc- 
cessful resistance it sustained against the British ships 
duringthe Revolutionary war, which proved of great impor- 
tance to the American arms. The island is at the mouth 
of the harbour, at the distance of seven miles from the city. 
The country in the neighbourhood of Charleston is 
generally uniform, level, covered with a growth of pines, 
and offers little variety to the eye. 



336 SUPPLEMENT. 



WASHINGTON, 



The seat of Government of the United States, is situ- 
ated between the Potomac River and its eastern branch, 
about a mile and a half above their junction. It is di- 
vided into three distinct parts, which arc built about the 
Navy Yard, the Capitol Hil., and the Pennsylvania Ave- 
nue. The Capitol is an immense bui'ding with two wings, 
surrounded b) an open piece of i?round, and occupying an 
elevated position, which renders it a conspicuous object 
in different directions for several miles. 

The original plan of <he city was very extensive : the 
principal streets meeting from all points of the compass 
at the Capitol, and tearing the names of the older states of 
the union. So^e of the minor streets are known by the 
names of the letters of the Alphabet , and tracts of ground 
were reserved for public squares. As Washington, how- 
ever, is chiefly dependant on the government for its sup- 
port, the original scheme has been but faintly realized, and 
many of the streets have not eren been opened. 

During the sessions of Congress, the place is thronged 
with strangers from all parts of the country ; and the ses- 
sions of the Senate and Representatives, the proceedings 
of the Supreme Court, the Levees at the President's 
House, the parties at the foreign ministers', &c. afford 
ample opportunities for amusements of various kinds. At 
other seasons, however, there is little to interest the 
stranger except the public buildings and the Navy Yard. 

The Capitol 

presents specimens of various styles of architecture. 
On entering the south wing several columns are seen, 
where carvings of Indian-corn stalks are substituted for 
fiutings and ifilletinos ; while the capitals are made of 
the ears of corn half stripped, and disposed so as in some 
degree to resemble the Corinthian or Composite order. 

The Representatives' Chamber is a fine semicircular 
apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous pud- 
ding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted from 



SUPPLEMENT, 337 

above. The gallery is open during the debates, as well as 
that of the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller 
apartment. 

The Library of Congress is in another part of the build- 
ing ; and the Great Hall contains the four national pic- 
tures, painted for the government by Col. Trumbull : the 
Declaration of Independence, the Surrenders at Saratoga 
and Yorktown, and Washington resigning his Commis- 
sion ; each 12 feet by 18. 

A fine view is enjoyed from the top of the Capitol. You 
look along the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to the Pre- 
sident's House, with (ieorgetown and the Potomac be- 
yond ; the General Post Office, &c. on the right ; the 
Navy Yard towards the south-east; Greenleaf's Point 
nearly south ; and south-west the bridge over the Poto- 
mac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. 
The canal begins south of the President's House, and ter- 
minates at the East Branch. 

The President's House is a large building of white 
marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the Ca- 
pitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded by a 
wall, but withouf any other defence. The entrance hall 
leads into the drawing room, where the President's lady 
receives visiters at her levees. Two other apartments are 
thrown open on those occasions ; all handsomely furnish- 
ed, and accessible with facility, even to strangers. 

The Patent Office is in the same building with the 
General Post Office, and well worthy of a visit, on account 
of the numerous curious models which it contains, relating 
to all branches of the arts. 

The Treasury, Navy. War, and Land Offices, are all in 
the vicinity of the President's House ; as are the resi- 
dences of the Foreign Ministers The members of Con- 
gress, as well as the numerous strangers who resort hither 
during the sessions, find lodgings in the hotels and board- 
ing houses in different parts of the city, or in Georgetown. 



33S SUPPLEMENT. 

GEORGETOWN 

is a considerable place, which by its proximity to Washr 
ington, seems almost a part of that city. The country 
around it ii variegated, and the situation of the Catholic 
College, a little way west, is picturesque. Still further, 
in the same direction, there is a very pleasant ride along 
the bank of the Potomac, where Mason's Island is at firstl 
seen, near the mouth of the river, and afterwards the 
elevated banks by which the river is bounded. On the 
north side of the road is a Cannon Foundry. 



ALEXANDRIA. 

This is a large city and port, six miles from Washing- 
ton, and contains some fine buildings, both public andl| 
private. The road which leads to it is good, in the plea- 
sant season, although the country is little inhabited, and ! 
the soil is impoverished by the cultivation of tobacco. 
This city is included within the boundary of the District^ 
of Columbia, and is at so short a distance from Washing- 
ton as to be a favourite resort, during the sessions of ( 
Congress. 



MOUNT VERNON, 

the estate of the Washington family, is nine miles south 
from Alexandria, and is remarkable as containing the re- 
sidence and the tomb of Gen. Washington. The road is \ 
somewhat intricate, and has but few inhabitants, so that 
the stranger who goes without a guide, will need to 
make careful inquiries. The entrance of the grounds is ; 
distinguished by a large gate, with the lodge and dwelling 
of the porter. A winding path conducts to the mansion, , 
which is seen but two or three times from a distance. The 
rear of the house is first seen, as it stands on an eminence, , 
looking down upon the Potomac. The buildings which i 
project from each end, are the ofiices and habitations ' 
of the negroes. The house is now the residence of 



SUPPLEMENT. 339 

Busbrod Washington, a judge of the supreme court of the 
U. S. and nephew of Gen. Washington. 

I'he key of the Bastille of Paris is hung up in the hall ; 
and a miniature portrait of Washington, from an earthen 
pitcher, is preserved, which is considered by the family, 
the best likeness of him ever made. A beautiful lawn, 
partly shaded by trees, extends from the front of the 
mansion to the verge of the precipice, which overhangs 
the Potomac, and affords a delightful view upon the 
river, and a tract ol hilly country above and below. 

This is the place lo which Washington retired after he 
had accomplished the independence of his country, and 
again when he had presided at the consolidation of the 
government: voluntarily resigning the stations he had 
consented to accept, and the power he had exercised only 
for the good of his country. To an American, this place 
is interesting, in a degree which no language can either 
heighten or describe. Whoever appreciates the value of 
private and social virtue, will rejoice to find it asso- 
ciated with the traits of a personage so distinguished and 
influential ; the consistent politician will rejoice to reflect, 
that his principles of natural freedom were not restricted 
to any portion of the world, or any part of the human race; 
while any one, who can duly estimate the extent of the 
blessings he has conferred on his country, and the influence 
of his actions on the happiness of the world, will wish 
that his history may ever be cherished, as a model of sin- 
cere and disinterested patriotism. 

Washington's Tomb 

will be found under the shade of a little grove of cedars, 
a short distance, southward, from the house, and near 
the brow of the precipitous shore. It is small, un- 
adorned, and neglected. The great man, who had ren- 
dered to his country the most important military and civil 
services she ever received, left his mortal remains to be 
deposited in this humble cemetery : and that country has 
never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monument 
to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, and to 
her has bequeathed a character, on which no attempt has 
ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to fix a stain. 



340 SUPPLEMENT. 



BALTIMORE. 

The Indian Queen Hotel. The City Hotel is an elegant 
building, near the Washington monument, to be completed 
in 182G. It will be one of the largest and most commodious . 
public houses in the country. 

Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United 
States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various 
projects have been made for improving the communica- 
tion with the interior, which is now limited. The course 
of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with the inten- 
tion of making it more useful in the transportation of! 
merchandise. The current is now so swift and broken in 
many places, as to render the passage often difficult and 
hazardous ; and it is probable, that great improvements 
may hereafter be effected by locks and canals. If this 
were once performed, and a cut made from the river to 
Baltimore, the city would doubtless derive great advan- 
tage from the internal trade. 

The harbour of Baltimore, in the Patapsco River, has a 
narrow entrance, and is well protected by high ground. 
On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of con- 
siderable size, where is a fort, and whence a commanding 
view is enjoyed. 

Fell's Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, 
where most of the stores and shipping are found. Many 
of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at right 
angles, and are ornamented with fine buildings both 
public and private. 

The Exchange 

is a very spacious brick building, erected within a few j 
years. 

The Washington Monument. 

This is a large column of marble placed in a command- 
ing position, at the head of Charles-street, rising to the 
height of 163 feet. It is 14 feet in diameter at the top 



SUPPLEMENT. t 341 

and 20 below, with a base 23 feet in height, and 50 
square. It is one of the finest monuments in the United 
States, and the only one worthy the memory of the great 
man to whom it is Erected. 

The Battle Monument 

was recently erected, in memory of those who fell in the 
defence of the city in September, 1814. 

The Public Fountain 

is a fine spring of water in the western part of the city, 
surrounded by a fine public square, laid out in walks and 
shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a neat little 
building of hewn stone, and furnished with handsome 
steps. To preserve order at this place in warm iveather, 
when it is usually much resorted to, it is the custom to 
take the right in descending and retiring. 

The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant rides ; 
and the communication with different places is easy, by 
various modes of conveyance. The most agreeable mode 
of travelling to Philadelphia, is by the steam boat lines, 
which go and arrive daily, with but a short distance of 
land carriage. Steam boats also go to Norfolk, in Virginia, 
but the passage is uninteresting ; and those who wish to 
see Washington, (33 miles distant,) will go by land. 



I 



Hh 



342 SUPPLEMENT. 



Extracts from the Report of the Commissioners of the J^eio- 
York Canal Fundf made in 1826. 

The canal fund has not essentially changed since our 
last annual report ; but the revenue, in almost every parti- 
cular, has for the past year greatly exceeded the estimate 
ivhich was in that report submitted to the legislature. 

The capital of the canal fund is as follows : 

The canals estimated at their cost $9,267,234 48 

The lands given by the Holland Land Com- 
pany in Cattaraugus, 100,632 acres, es- 
timated at 35,221 20 

The lands given by John. Hornby in the 
county of Steuben, 8000 acres, estimated 
at 3,000 00 

The lands given by Gideon Granger, in the 
county of Steuben, 1000 acres, esti- 
matedat 5,000 00 

The Onond. salt springs reservation unsold, 

5,400 acres, valued at 26,000 00 

An.ount of bonds for canal fund lands sold 128,435 15 

Amount of the canal fund $9,465,890 83 

The amount of revenue in the treasury, ap- 
plicable to the current expenses of the 
year, is $220,672 43 

The revenue for the current year is esti- 
mated as follows : 

Canal tolls 700,000 

Vendue duty 225,000 

Salt duty 100,000 

Principal and interest on bonds be- 
longing to the canal fund 10,000 

1,035,000 00 

Amount of revenue for the current year Si, 261, 672 4? 



SUPPLEMENT. 343 

The payments for this amount during the 

year will be, for 

interest on the canal loans .... $313,973 55 

Estimated expense of repairing 
thejcanals, and collecting tollst40,000 00 

Improvements to be made on the 

Champlain Canal 100,000 00 

Damages estimated at 50,000 00 

Loan reimbursable the 1st of 

Oct. 1826 270,000 00 

Incidental expenses of the com- 
missioners of the canal fund, 

estimated at 400 00 

975,372 55 

Estimated balance of the revenue over the 
estimated charges upon it fer the cur- 
rent year J286,298 93 



AFPHI^ZIIX. 



LIST OP STAGE COACHES. 

Albany^ Balhlon, Saratoga Springs, and Whitehall Coach' 
es, leave Powell and Thojp's General Mail Coach Office, 
No. 365 North Market-street, Albany, every morning and 
afternoon for BalKton and Saratoga Springs, and White- 
hall, (in connexion with the Cbimplain steam boat,) every 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, by coaches 
to Fort Edward, thence to Whitehall by canal packet 
boats, through in one day — a steam boat leaves White- 
hall Tuesday and Saturday for St. John's, where coaches 
are in waiting for Montreal. 
Proprietors f Swan, Thorp & Co. 

Distance fn,m Mhany to 

Miles. From Albany. 

Troy, 6 

Waterford, 5 11 

Mechanicville, 8 19 

Ballston Springs, ... 14 33 

Saratoga do., 7 40 

. Sandy Hill, 19 59 

Lake George, 13 72 



Mhany, Geneva, and Buffalo Pilot Mail Coach, leaves 
Powell & Thorp's General Mail Coach Office, No. 365 
North Market-street, Albany, every day at 1 1 A M. pass- 
es through Schenectady, Little Falls, Herkimer, Utica, 
Syracuse, (salt works,) Elbridge, Auburn, Geneva, Canan- 
daigua. East and West Bloomfield, Avon, and Batavia, 
to Buffalo, in three days — leaves Buffalo at 9 P. M. ar- 
rives at Geneva the first day, Utica the second, and Al- 
bany the third. Two daily lines of coaches pass and re« 



appendix: 345 

pass Niagara Falls every day, one on each side the river 
from Lewiston and Buffalo. 

Distance from Albany to Buffalo and Niagara. 

Miles. From Albany. 

Schenectady, 15 

Amsterdam, 15 30 

Caughnawaga, 10 40 

Palatine Bridge, 12 52 

Little Falls, 21 73 

Herkimer, 7 80 

Utica, 16 » 96 

Vernon, 15 Ill 

Manlius, 25 136 

Onondago, 10 146 

Auburn, 24 170 

Cayuga Bridge, 9 179 

Geneva, 13 192 

Canandaigua, 16 208 

Batavia, 48 256 

Buffalo, 40 296 

Niagara Falls, 21 317 



Albany, Cherry Valley, Cooperstown, and Rochester Mail 
Coach, leaves Powell & Thorp's General Mail Coach Of- 
fice, No. 365 North Market-street, Albany, every day, for 
Cherry Valley, Cooperstown, Bridgewater, Madison, 
Cazenovia, Manlius, Syracuse, Weed's Basin, Montezu- 
ma, Lyons, Palmyra, andPittsford, to Rochester — through 
in three days, crosses the canal thirteen times, and re- 
turns in the same order. A coach leaves Utica every 
morning, Sunday excepted, for Denmark and Sackett's 
Harbour, and from Denmark to Ogdensburgh, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday. Proprietors of this and the two 
preceding lines, Powell & Thorp, Albany-; J. Parker & 
Co. Utica ; J. M. Sherwood, Auburn ; J. Sherwood, Ge- 
neva ; B. D. Coe, Canandaigua ; O. Adams, Rochester ; 
C. H. Coe, Buffalo ; S. Barton, Lewiston ; A. Hovey, 
Montezuma; S. Goodwin, Madison ; Wm. Storv, Cherry 
Valiev. 

Hh 2 



340 AITENDIX. 

Distance from Albany to 

Miles. From Albany. 

Guilderland, 14 

State Bridge, 12 26 

Cherry Valley, 26 52 

Little Lakes, 10 62 

Bridgewater, 20 82 

Madison, 14 , 96 

Cazenovia,.... 12 -. 108 

Manlius, 12 120 

Syracuse, 7 127 

Elbridge,...? 15 142 

Weed's Basin, 6 148 

Montezuma, 9 157 

Lyons, 17 174 

Palmyra, 16 190 

Pittsford, 15 205 

Rochester, 8 213 

Distance from Canandaigiia to 

Miles. Canandaigua. 

Rochester, 28 

Clarkson, 18 46 

Lewiston, 60 106 

From Utica to Sacketi's Harbour^ 98 miles. 

do. Ogdensburgh, J 20 do. 



Albany and Schenectady Daily Stage leaves Comstock's 
Tavern, near the Canal Bridge, State-street, Schenectady, 
every morning, and leaves Albany every afternoon. Seat? 
taken in Albany at Peter Germond's, Green-street. Fare, 
C2i cents. Proprietory D. Comstock, Schenectady. 



Mhany and Montreal Mail and Post Coach leaves Alba- 
ny Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and ar- 
rive-, in Poultney at 6 P. M. — leaves Poultney next morn- 
ings at 3, and arrives in Burlington at 6 P. M. — leaves 
Burlington Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. 
and arrives in Montreal same evenings at 7 — leaves Mon- 
treal Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 3 A. M. and 



APPENDIX. 347 

iiives in Burlington same evenings at 7 — leaves Burling- 
ton Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and 
arrives in Poultncy same evenings at 6— leaves Poultney 
next mornings at 3, and arrives in Albany same evenings 
at 6, through Watervliet, Troy, Lansingburgh, Schaghti- 
coke, Pittstov.n, Cambridge, Jackson, Salem, Hebron, 
Granville, Wells, PouUney, Castleton, Hubbardston, Sud- 
bury, Whiting, Cornwall, M iddlebury , New-Haven, Ver- 
gennes, Ferrisburg, Charlotte, Shelburn, Burlington, Col- 
chester, Milton, Georgia, St. Albans, Swanton, Missisque 
Bay, St. John's, Laprairie, to Montreal — distance 220 
miles. 






Mbany, 'Utica, Geneva, Rochester, BuffalOy and Lewiston 
Mail Coacky leaves Powell & Thorp's General Mail 
Coach Office, No. 365 North Market-street, Albany, 
every day at 3 P. M. travels by day light only, lodge at 
Amsterdam, and arrives in Utica next day, at Auburn the 
second, passes Geneva and Canandaigua to Avon and Ro- 
chester the third, and Buffalo and Lewiston the fourth 
day from Albany — returns in the same order. 
Distance from Buffalo to 

Miles. From Buffalo. 

■Williamsville, 10 

Clarence, 8 IS 

Pembroke, 8 26 

Batavia, 14 40 

Leroy, 11 51 

Caledonia, 6 57 

Avon Post Office, 8 65 

Avon East Village,. . . . 2 67 

Lima, 5 72 

West Bloomfield, 4 76 

East Bloomfield, 5 81 

Canandaigua, 9 90 

Geneva, 16 106 

Waterloo, 7 113 

Seneca Falls P. 4 117 

East Cayuga, 3 120 

Auburn, 9 129 

Skaneateles, 7 136 

Marcelhis, 6 »... 142 



343 APPENDIX. 

OnondagoC. H 8 150 

Jamesville, 7 157 

Manlius, 5 162 

Sullivan, 6 • 168 

Lenox, 5 173 

Oneida, 7 180 

Vernon, 5 185 

Manchester, 8 193 

New Hartford, 5 198 

Utica, 4 202 

Little Falls, 22 224 

Schenectady, 58 282 

Albany, 16 ....• 298 



Jilbany and Saratoga Mail Stage leaves Albany Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. M. and arrives at Sara- 
toga Springs at 5 P. M. — leaves Saratoga Springs Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrives in 
Albany at 5 P. M. through Troy, Lansingburgh, Water- 
ford, and Ballston— distance 36 miles— fare $2. Proprie- 
fovj Elijah Castle. 



Albany, J^. Y. and Manchester, Ft. Stage, leaves Albany 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and arrives 
in Manchester same evenings — leaves Manchester Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrives in 
Albany same evenings, through Troy, Lansingburgh, 
Pittstown, Hoosack, Bennington, Shaftsbury, and Arling- 
ton. Fare {?3 25. 



Mhany and Boston Union Line Mail Stage leaves J. 
Rhine's Stage House, No. 12 Beaver-street, Albany, at 7, 
and O. Babcock's General Stage House, Troy, at 8 A. M. 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and arrives in Plainfield 
same evenings at 5 — leaves Plainfield Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Bane same even- 
ings at 5 — leaves Barre Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
at 7 A. M. and arrives in Boston same evenings at 5 — 
leaves Boyden's City Tavern, Boston, Tuesday, Thurs- 



APPENDIX. 341* 

day, and Saturday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Barre same 
evenings at 6 — leaves Barre Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday, at 7, and arrives in Plainfield same evenings at 6 
— ^leaves Plainfield Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 7 
A. M. and arrives in Albany same evenmgs at 5, through 
Sand Lake, Stephentown, Hancock, Lanesborough, Che- 
shire, Savoy, Plainfield, Ashfield, Conway, Bloody Brook, 
Sunderland, Leverett, Shutesbury, New-Salem, Peter- 
sham, Barre, Hubbardston, Princeton, Sterling, Lancas- 
ter, Bolton, Stow, Sudbury, Concord, Lincoln, Weston, 
Waltham, Watertown, Cambridge, to Boston. This line 
intersects with the stages at Bloody Brook to Northamp- 
ton, and at Sunderland to Amherst. Distance 160 miles 
—fare $7 60. 



Jiugusta and Bangor ^ Me. Mail Stoge, leaves Augusta 
Wednesday and Saturday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Ban- 
gor at 8 P. M — leaves Bangor Monday and Thursday, at 
4 A. M. and arrives in Augusta at 8 P. M. through Vas- 
salborough, Brown's Corner, Getchel's Corner, Outlet, 
China, Albion, Unitv, Joy, Dixmont, Newburgh, and 
Hampden. Distance 68 miles — fare $3 50. Proprietors, 
Moses Burley and Spencer Arnold. 



»Sugusta and Belfast, Me. Stage, leaves Augusta every 
Wednesday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Belfast at 8 P. M. 
— leaves Belfast every Thursday at 4 A. M. and arrives in 
Augusta a' 8 P. M through Chirsa. Palermo, Freedom, 
Montville, searsmont, and Belmont. Distance 50 miles 
—fare $2 50. 



Andover and Boston Stage leaves Andover every morn- 
ing, except Suntlays, at 6, and arrives in Boston at 10 A. 
M. — leaves Col. Wilde's, 45 Ann-street, Boston, every 
afternoon, except Sundays, at 3, and arrives in Andovev 
at 7 P. M. Distance 20 miles— fare $1. 



350 APPENDIX. 

Augusta, Me. and Waterville Stage, leaTCs Augusta Mon- 
day, Wednesday, and Friday, at half past 4 P. M. and 
arrives in Waterville at 8 — leaves Waterville Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Au- 
gusta at half past 7 — Fare $1. Owned by Maine Stage 
Company. 



Boston and Mhany Mail Stage, via JsTorthampton, leaves 
Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday, 
ond Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives at Northampton at 7 
P. M. — leaves Northampton next mornings at 3, and ar- 
rives in Albany at 7 P. M.— leaves E. Clark's Office, 526 
South Market-street, Albany, Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Northampton at 7 P. 
M. — leaves Northampton next mornings at 3, and arrives 
in Boston at 7 P. M. through Framingham, Worcester, 
Brookfield, Ware Factory Village, Belchertown, North- 
ampton, Chesterfield, Pittsfield, Lebanon Springs, and 
Greenbush, to Albany — distance 165 miles. Fare from 
Boston to Northampton, $4 50 j to Albany, $8 75. 



Boston and Albany Mail Stage, via Springfield, leaves * 
Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Springfield at 
6 P. M. — leaves Springfield Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Albany at 7 P. M. 
—leaves E. Clark's Office, 526 South Market-street, Al- 
bany, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and 
arrives in Springfield at 7 P. M. — leaves Springfield Mon- 
day, Wodnesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in 
Boston at 7 P. M. through Waltham, Sudbury, Marlboro', 
Worcester, Brookfield, Palmer, Springfield, Westfield, 
Stockbridge, Greenbush, to Albany-^distance 165 miles. 
Fare from Boston to Springfield, 55^4 50 j to Albanyj 
5^8 75. 



Boston, Hartford, and J^ew -Haven Middle Line Accom- 
modation Stage, leaves Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, 



APPENDIX. 351 

every day except Tuesday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Ash- 
ford at 6 P. M. — leaves Ashford next mornings at 5, and 
arrives in New-Haven same evenings at 6 — leaves New- 
Haven every morning, except Tuesday, stops in Ashford 
over night, and arrives in Boston next evenings at 6, 
through Dcdham, Medfield, Mendon, Thompson, Pomfret, 
Coventry, E. Hartford on Meriden road to New-Haven — 
distance 136 miles. Fare from Boston to Hartford, 
^$5 50 ; to New-Haven, ^7 50. 



Boston and Mhany ^Accommodation Stage, by Worcester, 
Amherst, Northampton, Pittsfield, and Lebanon Springs, 
and by Worcester, Southbridge, and Springfield, to Alba- 
ny, leaves Boston and E. Clark's office, 526 South Mar- 
ket-street, Albany, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur- 
day, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Northampton and Spring- 
field at 8 same evenings — leaves Northampton and Spring- 
field for Boston and Albany every Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Boston and Albany 
at 8 same evenings. At Northampton and Springfield, 
this line intersects the stage passing up and down the 
river, and likewise intersects the line of stages from Pro- 
vidence through Thompson to Albany at Southbridge. A 
stage also passes from Greenwich Village through Prescott 
and Pelham, intersecting at Amherst, passing the manu- 
facturing establishments in Leicester, Charlton, South- 
bridge, Brimfield and Monson, through New Braintee, 
Hardwicke, Greenwich, and Enfield, by Amherst College 
and Hadley Academy, through Northampton, Chesterfield, 
Pittsfield, Greenbush, to Albany. Fare from Boston to 
Worcester, $2 ; to Southbridge, $3 ; to Northampton, 
$4 50 ; to Albany, ^8 75. Books kept in Boston at 
Earl's, Hanover-street, and Wildes & Hosmer's, Elm- 
street ; in Worcester at C. Stockwell's ; in Northampton 
at Warner's ; and in Albany at E. Clark's office. 



Boston and Mhany Mail Stage, via Brattleboro\ Vt. 
leaves Brigham's, 42 Hanover-street, Boston, Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Brat- 
tleboro' same evenings at 9 — leaves Brattleboro* next 



353 APPENDIX. 

mornings at 2, and arrives in Albany at 9 P. M. — leaves 
Albany Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. andj 
arrives in Brattleboro' same evenings at 9 — leaves Brat*, 
tleboro' next morning at 2 A. M. and arrives in Bostoni 
same evenings at 9, through Cambridge, Walthara, Stow, 
Bolton, Lancaster, Leominster, Fitchburg, Westminster 
Templeton, Athol, Orange, Winchester, Hinsdale, Wilp 
mington, Bennington, and Trojr, A branch of this line 
leaves Athol same hours for Albany, through Greenfield|l 
Williamstown, Adams, and Hancock, and arrives in Albaxi 
ny same time, and intersects at Athol. 



Boston and Mbany Despatch and Phanix Line of Stages, 
via Greenfield, leaves Riley's, No. 9 Elm-street, Boston^ 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 4 A. M. and arrive^ 
in Greenfield at half past 7 same evenings — leaves Greeny 
field Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and arrives ii|i 
Albany same days — leaves Albany Monday, Wednesday,' 
and Friday, and arrives in Greenfield same days — leaves 
Greenfield Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 A. Mi 
and arrives in Boston at half past 7 same evenings, inter-' 
secting the Providence, Worcester, and Keene line, ati 
Hubbardsion — through Watertown, Waltham, Lincoln, 
Stow, Bolton, Lancaster, Sterling, Princeton, Hubbarda-i 
ton, Petersham, New-Salem, Shutesbury, Wendall, Mon- 
tague, Greenfield, Claremont, Adams, Williamstown, 
Hancock, Stephentown, Sand Lake to Albany. Farei 
from Boston to Greenfield, 5J3 75 ; to Albany, ^7 75. 



Boston, Keene, Walpole, Charlestown, Windsor, and' 
Hanover Accommodation StagCy leaves Brigham's, 42 Ha- 
nover-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
at 4 A. M. and arrives in Keene same evenings at 7 — 
leaves Keene next mornings at 5, and arrives in Hanover 
same evenings at 6 — leaves Hanover Monday, Wednes- 
day, and Friday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Keene same 
evening at 6 — leaves Keene next mornings at 4, and ar- 
rives in Boston same evenings at 7, through Concord and 
Westford on Monday, and returns on Thursday, through 
Groton, Ashby, Rindge, and Fitzwilliam— distance 140 



APPENDIX. 353 

jmles. Fare from Boston to Ashby, ^2 50; to Rindge, 
S3 25 ; to Fiizwilliam, $3 50 ; to Keene, $4 ; to Charles- 
town, ^5 50 ; to Windsor, ^6 ; to Hanover, {?6 50. 



Boston^ Keene, Walpole, Rutland, and Burlington, Vt, 
.Mail Stage, leaves Biigham's, 42 Hanover-street, Bo^tun, 
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, at 4 A. M. and arrives 
at Keene at 7 same evenings — leaves Keene next mornings 
at 5, and arrives in Rutland same evenings at 7 — leaves 
Rutland next mornings at 5, and arrives in Burluigton 
same evenings at 5 — leaves Burliijgton Monday, Wed- 
nesday, and Friday, at 5 A. M and arrives in Rutland 
same evenings at 6 — leaves Rutland next mornings at 5, 
and arrives in Keene same evenings a! 6— leaves Keene 
next mornings at 4, and arrives in Boston same evenings 
at 7, through Concord. Groton, New Ipswich, Jeffrey, 
Chester, Mount Holley, Brandon, Middlebury, Ver- 
gennes, and Charlotte — distance 210 aiiies. Fare from 
Boston to Concord, ,$1 ; to Groton, §2; to New Ipswich, 
$2 50 ; to Jeffrey, 5^3 25 ; to Keene, $4 : t j Walpole, 
H 75 ; to Chester, $5 75 ; to Mount Hoiiey, $6 75 ; 
to Rutland, $7 75; to Brandon, $8 75; to Middlebury, 
5^9 75 i to Burlington, $11 25. 



Boston, Amherst, Windsor, and Burlington, Vt, Mail 
Stage, leaves Boyden's (City Tavern,) Boston, Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at 5 A. M. and arrives in Fran- 
cestown same evenings at 6 — leaves Francestown next 
mornings at 4, and arrives in Windsor at 12, noon, and in 
Royalton same evenings — leaves Royalton next mornings 
at 4, and arrives in Burlington at 4 P. M. — from thence 
to Montreal and Quebec — leaves Burlington three times a 
week, and arrives in Francestown Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday evenings— leaves Francestown next mornings 
at 4, and arrives in Boston ot S P, M. through Charies- 
town, Medford, Chelmsford, W. Parish, Nashua Village, 
Hillsborough, Washington, i>iewport, Hartland, Wood- 
stock, over Gulf Read to Montpelier— distance 212 miles. 
Fare from Boston to Windsor, $6 ; to Burlington, $12. 
I i 



354 APPENDIX. 

Boston, Portsmouth, J^. H. and Portlmid Accommodailon 
Stage, leaves colonel Wildes' 45 Ann-street, Boston, every 
morning, except Sundays, at 8, and arrives in Newbury- 
port at 1 P. M. to dine, and in Portsmouth, at 5 — leaves 
Portsmouth next morning at 8, (on lower road) through 
Kittery, York, Wells, Kennebunk, Biddeford, Saco, and 
Scarborough, and arrives in Portland at 5 P. M.— leaves 
Portland every morning except Sundays, at 8, on same 
road, and arrives in Portsmouth, at 5 P. M. — leaves Ports- 
mouth next morning at 9, and arrives in Boston at 6 P. 
M. — distance, to Newburyport, 38 miles— fare $2,00 ; to 
Portsmouth, 62 miles, $5,00; to Portland. 120 miles, 
^6,00. 



Boston and Providence Citizens* Coach, leaves Boston 
every morning at half past 7 and arrives in Providence to 
dine — leaves Providence every morning at half past 7 and 
arrives in Boston to dine. — On steam boat days, Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, the proprietors convey all 
passengers who wish to take passage in the steam boats . 
for New- York— they also have carriages in readiness to 
take passengers who may arrive at Providence in the 
steam boats, to Boston — extra coaches furnished at any 
time at short notice — books kept at Boyden's city tavern. 
Exchange Coffee House, Marlboro' Hotel, Commercial 
Coffee House, Lafayette Hotel, Wildes and Hosmer's, 
Elm-street, and Shephard's, Bloomfield Lane, Boston ; 
and at Blake's Hotel, Providence— distance 40 miles — fare 
$2 — Agents, A. Fuller, Boston : D. Borden, Providence. 



Bostont Walpole, Wrentham, and Providence^ R. J. 
Sfog-c, leaves Boston and Providence every morningexcept 
Sundays, at 5 — from Providence Monday, Wednesday, 
Tuesday, and Friday — from Boston, Thursday and Satur- 
day, through Walpole and Wrentham — from Boston, Mon- 
day, Wednesday, and Friday — and from Providence, Tues- 
day, Thursday, aad Saturday, over the turnpike. Distance 
40 miles— fare $1 50. Books kept at Blake's Franklin Ho- 
tel, Providence, and at Cobb's Marlboro' Hotel, Boston. 
^igents, A. Fuller, Boston, and D. Borden, Providence. 



APPENDIX. 355 

Boston and Providence J^ew Line of Coaches^ leaves 
Boston and Providence every morning at half past 7, and 
arrives in each place to dine — Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday, runs to meet the steam boats that leave Provi- 
dence the same afternoons for New-York, and will be 
in readiness to take passengers to Boston on their arrival 
at Providence — distance 40 miles — fare $2 — books> ktpt iu 
Boston at Biigham's, 42 Hanover- street ; in Providence 
at Horton's. Hotel, Mai.ufacturers' Hotel and at Wesson's 
Coffee House; in Paw tucket at Jenkes' Hotel — ^gents^ 
William Norton, Boston ; Joel Blaidseil, Providence. 

Boston and Burlington Mail Pilot Stage, leaves Jacob 
Barnard's stage office. No. 9 Elm-Street, Boston, Mon- 
day, Wednesday and Friday, at 5 A. M. and arrives in 
Concord at 5 P. M. — leaves Concord next mornings at 4 
A. M, and arrives in Royalton, Vt. at 7 P. M. — leaves Roy- 
alton, Wednesday, Friday and Sund^iy, and arrives in 
Burlington at 4 P. M. — leaves Burlington, Tuesday, 
Thursday and Saturday, and arrives in Royalton at 7 P. 
M. — leaves Royalton, Monday, Wednesday and Frida> at 
4 A. M. and arrives in Concord at 5 P. M. — leaves Con- 
cord, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4 A. M. and ar- 
rives in Boston at 5 P. M. through Charlestown, Medford, 
Stoneham, Reading, Andover, Methuen, New- Salem, 
Londonderry, Chester, Hookset, Bow, Boscawen, Salis- 
bury, New-Andover, Wilmont, Springfield, Enfield, Le- 
banon, Hanover, Hartford, Sharon, Randolph, Brookfield, 
Wiiliamstown, Barre, Montpt lier, Middlesex, Moretown, 
Waterbury, Bolton, Richmond, Wiliiston to Burlington — 
distance 210 miles— fare $12. 



Boston, Haverhilly and Concord, J^. H. Stage, leaves 
Jacob Barnard's stage office, No. 9 Elm-street. Boston, 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5 A. M. and arrives 
in Concord at 5 P. M. where it connects with the 
Pilot line for Burlington and Montreal — leaves Con- 
cord, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4 A. M. 
and arrives in Boston at 5 P. M. through Charlestown, 
Medford, Stoneham, Reading, Andover, Bradford, Ha- 
verhill, Ms., Atkinson, Hampstead, Chester, Candia to 



356 APPENDIX. 

Concord — distance 68 miles — fare $3 50 — Proprietors' 
Agentj Hiram Plummer, Haverhill. 



Boston and Worcester Jiccommodation StagCy leaves H. . 
Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday i 
and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Worcester at 3 P. J 
M. — leaves Worcester, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 
at 9 A. M. and arrives in Boston at 4 P. M. through Water- 
town, Waltham, Weston, Sudbury, Marlborough, North- 
bridge, Shrewsbury to Worcester — distance 42 miles—" 
fare $2— Proprietors, H. Earl, and S. Burt. 



Boston, Bolton, Lancaster and Princeton Jiccommodation} 
Stage, leaves Boyden's city tavern, and Brigham's, Vlano- 
ver-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7 
A. M and arrives in Princeton at 5 P. M. — (see Wachusett t 
Hills,) leaves Princeton, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 
at 6 A. M. and arrives in Boston at 2 P. M. through Cam- 
bridge, Watertown, Waltham, Weston, Lincoln, Sudbury, , 
Stow, Bolton, Lancaster, Sterling to Princeton — distance 
47 xnUes— Proprietors, Holman, Cowe & Co. Bolton; 
James Barnard &. Co. Boston. 



Brunswick and Wiscasset, Me. Stage, leaves Brunswick 
every day at 10 A. M. and arrives at Wiscasset at 2 P. 
M. leaves Wiscasset every day at 8 A. M. and arrive* 
in Brunswick same days, through Bath — owned by Maine 
Stage Company. 



Buffalo and Erie Mail Stage, leaves the Mansion House» 
Buffalo, every morning at 4, and Erie every morning at i; 
the same hour. 



CatsMll and Ithaca, J^- Y. Mail and Post Coach Line — 
N. Steel & Co.'s line leaves Catskill, Sunday and Thurs- 
day at 6 A. M. through Cairo, Windham, Roxbury, Stam-^ 
ford, Kortright, Delhi, Merideth, Franklin, Unadilla, Ox» 



APPENDIX. . 357 

ford, Greene, Lisle, &c. to Ithaca — the stages meet in 
Delhi first evening and in Greene second evening. — H. 
Watkins & Co.'s leaves Catskill, Tuesday and Friday at 6 
A. M. through Cairo, New-Durham, Broome, Blenheim, 
Stamford, Harpersfield, Merideth, Franklin, Sidney, Una- 
dilla, Bainbridge, Greene, &c. to Ithaca — this line meets 
the western stages at Harpersfield first evening and at 
Greene second evening. — Coaches leave Ithaca, Sunday, 
Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 4 A. M, and arrive in 
Catskill in time for the steam boat on the third day — fare 
4 cts. per mile — seats taken in Catskill at Croswell's and 
Donnelly's ; in Ithaca at Spencer's, and at the interme- 
diate stage houses. — A stage leaves Harpersfiold every 
Monday for Albany, and leaves Albany every Wednesday 
for Harpersfield ; N. Steel & Co.'s line intersects it, and 
also intersects the Utica and Binghamton lines at Oxford 
—Proprietors, H. Watkins & Co. and N. Steel & Co. 



Conway, JV. H. and Portland, Me. Stage, leaves Con- 
way, Monday and Thursday at 5 A. M. and arrives in 
Portland at 5 P. M. — leaves Portland, Wednesday and 
Saturday at 7 A. M. and arrives in Conway at 7 P. M. 
through Fryeburg, Baldwin, Standish and Gorham — fare 
$2 50 — owned by White Mountain Stage Company. 



Conway, JV. H. and Lancaster, J^. H. Stage, leaves Con- 
way, Thursday and Sunday at 5 A. M. and arrives in 
Lancaster same days— leaves Lancaster, Friday and Wed- 
nesday and arrives in Conway same days, passing through 
the notch of the White Mountains each way — fare #2,50 
— owned by the White Mountain Stage Company. 



Dover and Portsmouth, JV*. H. Stage, leaves Dover every 
day, except Sundays, at 8 A. M. and arrives in Ports- 
mouth at 10 — leaves Portsmouth every day, except Sun- 
days, at 5 P. M. and arrives in Dover at 7, through New- 
ington— distance 12 miles— fare 62^ cts.— Proprietors^ 
Agenty Simeon Wingate. 

I i 2 



■J53 APPENDIX. 

Dudley and Boston Accommodation Stage, by Worcester, « 
Ward, Millbury, Sutton and Oxford, leaves Boston every I 
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and Wor- 
cester at 10 A. M, and arrives at Dudley same day — leaves 
Dudley for Worcester and Boston, every Monday, Wed- 
nesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. and arrives at Worcester, 
at 12, and at Boston at 8, same evening, and passes the 
Manufacturing Establishments in Oxford and Dudley — on 
Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, on its way 
through Oxford, passes tlie Manufacturing Establishments 
of Leffingwell, Preston & Co- the Mineral Springs of 
Major Joseph Lamb on Wednesdays and Thursdays by 
the way of Millbury and Sutton — (all baggage at the risk 
of the owners) seats in Boston, taken at Wildes and Hos- 
mer's, Elm-street. 



Eastern Mail Stage, leaves Wildes', 45 Ann-street, 
Boston, every morning, at 2, through Salem, Ipswich, 
Newbury port, and arrives in Portsmouth at 10 A. M. and 
in Portland at 8 same evening — leaves Portland every 
morning at 4, and arrives in Portsmouth at half past 12, 
noon, and in Boston at 9 same evening — distance to New- 
buryport ?>3 miles — fare $2 50 ; to Portsmouth 62 miles 
$4 ; to Portland 120 miles $8 — Agents, Col. Jeremiah 
Colman, Newburyport, and A. Rice, Portsmouth. 



Hartford and Providence Mail Stage, leaves Hartford, 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings, on the arrival 
of the southern mail, and arrives in Providence, same 
evenings— leaves Providence, Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday at 9 A. M. and arrives in Hartford same eve- 
nings, through East- Hartford, Manchester, Bolton, Co- 
ventry, Mansfield, Ashford, Pomfret, Killingly, Foster, 
Gloucester, Scituate and Johnstown — distance 70 miles 
— fare #4 57 — Proprietors, James Goodwin, jr. Hartford ; 
E. Pomroy, Coventry ; D. Clark, Ashford ; D. Cornel, 
Gloucester. 



APPENDIX. 359 

Hartford and Litchfield^ Conn. Mail Coach, leaves Mor- 
gan's Coflfee House, Hartford, Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Litchfield at 3 P. M. — 
leaves Litchfield, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8 
A. M. and arrives in Hartford at 3 P. M. through Far- 
mington, Burlington and Harwinton to Litchfield — fare 
$2— Proprietory Josiah Parks. 



Hartford and J^ew-Haven, Conn, Steam Boat Stages, 
leave Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, every day at 10 
A. M. ; on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, via. Berlin, 
Meriden and Wallingford, and on Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday, via. Farmington, Southington and Cheshire, 
and arrive in New-Haven in time to take the steam boats 
and stages for New- York — leave New-Haven on the ar- 
rival of the steam boats from New- York and arrive in 
Hartford in time to take the stages that leave there each 
day in the week — distance 40 miles — fare $2 — Proprietors, 
James Rose & Co. Hartford ; and John Babcock, Junr, 
New-Haven. 



Hartford, Connecticut and Mb any, JV*. Y. Mail Stage, 
leaves Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, Monday, Wed- 
nesday and Friday at 2 A. M . and arrives in Albany same 
evenings at 8 — leaves E. Clark's office, No. 526, South 
Market-street, Albanj, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 
at 2 A. M and arrives in Hartford same evenings at 8 
through New- Hartford, Norfolk, Sheffield, West Stock- 
bridge and Chatham, to Albany — distance from Albany to 
Chatham 15 miles ; to West Stockbridge 30 miles; to 
Sheffield 46 miles ; to Norfolk 60 miles ; to New-Hart- 
ford 76 miles ; to Hartford 96 miles— fare $5 — Proprie- 
tors, Aaron French, T. Whitlock, Aaron Hosmer, Calvin 
Forbes, Moses Forbes and Samuel P. Patterson. 



Hartford and Jfew-Haven, Con. ^Accommodation Stage, 
leaves Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, Monday, Wed- 
nesday and Friday at 11 A. M. and arrives in New-Ha- 
vp?i ate P. M.— leaves New-Haven, Tuesday, Thursday, 



360 APPENDIX. 

and Saturday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Hartford at 3 
P. M. through Weathersfield, Rocky Hill, Middletown 
U. H. Middletown, Durham, and Northford — distance 40 
miles — fare $2 — extra stages and coaches furnished, on 
short notice, at all times — Proprietors, James Rose & Co. 
Hartford ; and John Babcock, jr. New-Haven. 



Hartfordj Conn, and Hanover, J^. H. Mail Stages, (on 
east side of Connecticut River) leave Hartford and Ha- 
nover Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 5 A. M. and 
arrive in Hinsdale same evening — leave Hinsdale Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday mornings and arrive in Hart- 
ford and Hanover same evenings; intersecting the Boston 
and Brattleboro* line at Hinsdale — the Boston, Keene, 
and Walpole line, and all the lines from Albany to Boston 
in the distance of the route. Distance from Hartford to 
Hanover, 152 miles — fare $7 25. — Proprietors, Robert 
M. Abbe & Co. E. Graves & Co. Skinner & Marsh. ! 



Leicistown and Rochester, J^. Y. Mail Stage, leaves 
Lewiston every morning at 4 P. M. and arrives at Ro- 
chester at 7 same evening — passes through the villages of 
Hartland, Ridgway, Oak Orchard, Gaines, Sandy Creek, 
Clarkson, and Parma — leaves Rochester at 4 A. M. and 
arrives in Levviston at 7 P. M. — distance 80 miles— fare 
$3 50 — extras are all times furnished either at Rochester 
or Lewiston. — Proprietors, Samuel Barton, Lewiston ; 
Orry Adams, Rochester. 



^Northampton, Mass. and Hartford, Co^in. Enterprise 
Stage, via Westfield and Connecticut State Prison, leaves- 
Curtis's, Northampton, every Monday morning at 2 and 
arrives at Hartford in time to take the steam boat Oliver 
Ellsworth for New- York ; and on Wednesday and Friday- 
mornings leaves same place at 8 and arrives in Hartford 
at 2 P. M.— leaves Hartford, Tuesday, and Thursday at 8 
A. M. and arrives in Northampton at 2 P. M. on Satur^ 
days leaves Hartford on the arrival of the steam boat and 
arrives at Northampton in six hours— fare from North- 



APPENDIX. 361 

ampton to Hartford $2,25 — Proprietors J. Curtis & Co. 
Northampton, and B. Merwin & Co. Westfield. 



J^eW'London and Hartford, Conn. Stage, leaves New- 
London, Tuesday and Thursday at 8 A. M. and arrives in 
Hartford at 6 P. M. — leaves Morgan's Coffee House, 
Hartford, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives 
in New-London at 5 P. M. through Waterford, Montville, 
Salem, Colchester, Hebron, Marlboro', Glastenbury, and 
East Hartford — distance 47 miles — fare $3 — Proprietors, 
Elias W. Newton, Colchester, and Horatio G. Broom, 
New-London. 



Jfew-York and Easton Mail Stage, leaves New- York 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 6 A. M. and arrives 
at Easton, same evenings at 7 — leaves Easton, Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday mornings, and arrives in New- 
York at 5 P. M through Elizabethtown, Springfield, 
Chatham, Bottlehill, Morristown, Mendham, Chester by 
the Schoolies Mountain Springs, Anderson, Washington 
to Easton — distance 70 miles— fare $3 — Proprietors, 
James Anderson, Benjamin C. Chamberlin, and John 
Drake. 



^ew-Haven, Litchfield, Conn, and Mbany Jf. Y. Mail 
Coach, leaves New- Haven, Tuesday, Thursday, and Sa- 
turday at 8 A. M- and arrives in Litchfield at 3 P. M.-^ 
leaves Litchfield Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5 A. 
M. and arrives in Albany same evenings — leaves Albany 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 2 A. M. on the 
arrival of the Albany stages and arrives in Litchfield at 5 
P. M. — leaves Litchfield Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- 
day at 7 A. M. and arrives in New-Haven at 2 P. M. 
through Waterbury, Watertown, East Goshen, Norfolk, 
Canaan, SheflSield, Great Harrington, West Stockbridge, 
Chatham, Nassau, Schodac and Greenbush to Albany — 
fare from Litchfield to Albany $4 — Books kept at Morsels 
General Stage Office and Bishop's Hotel. Church-street, 



302 APPENDIX. 

New-Haven — at the public bouses in Litchfield, and at 
E. Clark's Stage Office, South Market-street, Albany— 
Proprietors, John W. Harris, New-Haven ; J. Parks, 
Litchfield ; A. Hosmer, C. Forbes, M. Forbes, and S. P. 
Patterson. 



^eivhurgh and Ithaca, JV*. Y- Mail Stage, leaves New- 
burgh Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, at 6 A. M. and 
arrives in Ithaca, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
evenings, through Monticello, Cocheco, Damascus, 
Mount Pleasant, New-Milford, crosses the Susquehannah 
River, through Chenango Point and Oswego to Ithaca— - 
Proprietors, James Crawford, Newburgh ; J. Baird. 
Bloomingburgh ,• E. Hathaway, Monticello j J. Mo(t, 
New-Milford. 



Norwich and Hartford, Conn. Mail Coach, leaves Kin- 
ney's hotel, Norwich, every Tuesday at 8 A. M. and 
arrives in Hartford at 5 P. M. — leaves Morgan's Coffee 
Ho^se, Hartford, every Wednesday at 7 A- M. and ar- 
rives in Norwich at 5 P. M. through Chelsea, Bozrah, 
Franklin, Lebanon, Windham, Columbia, Coventry, 
(Anddver parish) Bolton, Manchester, and East Hartford 
— distknce 40 miles — fare $2 50 — Proprietors, N. Kinney, 
Norwich ; R. S. White, Bolton ; and Jabez Loomis. 



J^orwich and Hartford, Conn. Stage, leaves Norwich 
(Chelsea Landing) every Thursday at 9 A. M. and arrives 
in Hartford at 6 P. M. — leaves Morgan's Coffee House, 
Hartford, every Friday at 7 A. M. and arrives in Norwich 
at 5 P. M. through Ncrwichtoun, Bozrah, Bozraville, 
Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury, and 
East Hartford — distance 40 miles — fare $2 30. 



Providence, Bristol, and J^evjport, R. I. Mail Stage, 
leaves Providence every day, except Sundays, at 9 A. M. 
and arrives in Bristol at ll, and in Newport at 4 P. M. 
—leaves Newport every day, except Sundays, at 9 A. Mv 



and arrives in Providence at 4 P. M. — distance from Pro- 
vidence to Bristol 15 miles, to Newport 30 — fare from 
Providence to Bristol ;^1, to Newport $1 43. 



Portsmouth and Concord, A*. H, J\Iail Stage, leaves 
Portsmouth Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. M. 
and arrives in Concord at 5 P. M. — leaves Concord Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 6 A. M. and arrives in 
Portsmouth at 3 P. M. — through Greenland, Stratham, 
Exeter, Epping, Deerfield, AUenstown, and Pembroke, to 
Concord — distance, 50 miles — fare, $2,50. — A branch 
from the Mail Stage intersects the Portsmouth and Con- 
cord Mail Stage at Exeter and at Hampton Falls — fare 
from Newburyport to Concord, $2 50. — tigent Daniel 
Storey, Portsmouth. 

Providence R. L and J^orwich, Conn. Mail Stage, leaves 
'Providence Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at half past 
2 P. M. and arrives in Norwich at 10 same evenings — 
leaves Norwich Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 12 
; noon, and arrives in Providence at half past seven same 
; evenings — through Olneyville, Scituate, Foster, Coventry, 
Sterling, Plainfield, and Jcwett city to Norwich. This 
, line is connected with the Boston, Taunton, New-Haven 
j and Hartford mail lines, so that passengers can take seats 
for either of those routes. — Books kept at Blake's Frank- 
lin House, Providence, and at Kinney's Hotel, Norwich 
—fare ^3.—^Sgents, N. Manchester and A. Fry. 



Plymouth and Boston Accommodation Stage, leaves 
Plymouth, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings 
and arrives in Boston to dine — leave Boyden's city tavern, 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 11 A. M. and ar- 
rives in Plymouth same afternoon, through Kingston, 
Dusbury, Pembroke, Hanover, Scituate, Weymouth, 
Quincy, and Dorchester — fare through, ^l 50. 



Plymouth and JBoston Accommodation stage, (twice a 



364 APPEiSl>lX. 

week) leaves Plymouth, Tuesday and Thursday at 5 past 
6 A. M. and arrives in Boston to dine — leaves Boston, 
Wednesday and Friday, at 11 A. M. and arrives in Ply- 
mouth same evening, through Kingston, Hanover, Abing* 
ton, Weymouth, Quincy, and Dorchester — distance 33 
miles — fare $160 — books kept at Wildes & Hosmer's, 
Elm-street, Boston, and old colony hotel, Plymouth. 



Plymouth and Boston ^Accommodation Stage, leaves Ply- 
mouth, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at half past 6, 
A. M. and arrives in Boston to dine — leaves Boston, 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 11 A. M. and ar- 
rives in Plymouth same evenings, through Kingston, 
Pembroke, Hanover, Scituate, Weymouth, Quincy and 
Dorch€ster — distance 3S miles — fare $1,60 — bouka kept 
in Boston, at Rilev'"'? Elm-street, and at Hamilton's, city 
hotel, Elm-street, and in Plymouth at old colony hotel — 
Proprietors, A. Thayer and B. Gushing & Co. 



Plymouth, Falmouth, Barmtahle, and Boston Mail StagSf 
leaves Barnstable and Falmouth, Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday mornings, and arrives in Boston at 5 P. M. — 
leaves Boyden's (city tavern) Tuesday, Thursday, and I 
Saturday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Falmouth and Barn- 
stable same afternoon — at Falmouth it meets the mail 
packet which runs to Nantucket same evening, through 
Sandwich, Kingston, Duxbury, Pembroke, Hanover, 
Scituate, Hingham ; Quincy, and Dorchester — fare from 
Boston, to Plymouth, $1,50; to Sandwich, $2,50; to 
Falmouth, $3,50; to Barnstable, $3,83— ProprietmSf , 
Simeon Boyden & Co. Boston ; Sivret and Whitisg, 
Scituate ; George Drew, Plymouth. 



Portsmouth, Concord, Charlestown, J^, H. and Albany^ 
JV. Y, Mail Stage, leaves Portsmouth, Monday, Wednes- 
day, and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Concord at 5 
P. M. — leaves Concord next mornings at 7 and arrives in 
Charlestown same day, where it intersects the Whitehall, 
Saratoga Springs and Albany stages ; over the N. H. 



APPENDIX. 365 

aaupike, through Dover, Durham, Northvvood, Hopkin- 
ton, Henniker, and Hillsborough ; passengers for Canada 
will arrive at Whitehall in season to take the steam boat 
for St. John's, and leave there in season to take the East- 
ern line at Granville, to return. A line of stages, which 
intersects the above at Hillsborough, passes through Han- 
cock and Peterborough. 



Portland, Me, and Augusta Stage, leaves Portland every 
day at 4 A. M. and arrives in Augusta at half past 3 P. M. 
— leaves Augusta every day at 8 A. M. and arrives in 
Portland at half past 7 P. M. through North Yarmouth, 
Freeport, Brunswick, Bowdoinham, Gardiner, and Hallo- 
well — fare $3— owned by the Maine Stage Company. 



Portland and Bath, Me. Accommodation Stage, leaves 
Portland every day at 10 A. M. and arrives in Bath at 5 
P. M. — leaves Bath every day at 8 A. M. and arrives in 
Portland at 2 P. M.— fare 551,50— owned by the Maine 
Stage Company. 



Portland, Hallowtll, and ^Augusta Stage, (upper road) 
leaves Portland, Monday and Thursday at 5 A. M. and 
arrives in Hallowell at 6 P. M. — leaves Hallowell, Tues- 
day and Friday at 5 A. M. and arrives in Portland at 6 
P. M. through Gray, New Gloucester, Danville, Lewis- 
ton, Greene, Monmouth, and Winthrop — fare $3. 



' Paris, Me. and Portland Stage, leaves Paris, Monday 
and Wednesday at 5 A. M. and arrives in Portland at 4 
P. M. — leaves Portland, Wednesday and Saturday at 5 
A. M. and arrives in Paris at 4 P. M. through Gray, Po- 
land, and Norway— fare $2. 



Patotucket and Providence Diligence Stage, leaves Jenks's 
hotel, Pawtucket, every day at 9 A. M. and 2 P. M. and 

Kk 



3.66 APPENDIX. 

leaves Clark's, Providence, at 12, noon, and 4 P. M.— 
distance 3 miles— fare 25cts. 



PoughkeepsiCy J^T. Y. and Litchfield, Conn. Mail Coachj 
leaves Poughkeepsie, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 
5 A. M. and arrives in Litchfield same afternoons — leaves 
Litchfield, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 5 A. M. 
and arrives in Poughkeepsie same afternoons, through 
Pleasant Valley, Washington, Dover, America, Sharon, 
Ellsworth, and Cornwall to Litchfield — fare $3 — Proprie- 
tors, Wm. Stevens & Co. 



Saco and Portland, Me. Accommodation Stage, leaves 
Saco every day, Sundays excepted, at 7 A. M. and arrives 
in Portland at 9 A. M.— leaves Portland same days at 4 
P. M. and arrives in Saco at 6 P. M.— Distance 16 miles 
—fare 75 cents.— Proprietor's Agent A. Rice, Portsmouth. 



Siaraioga Springs and Manchester, Vt. Stage, leaves Sa- 
ratoga Springs, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5 
A. M. and arrives in Manchester same evenmgs — leaves 
Black's, Manchester, Tuesday, Thur3day and Saturday at 
4 A. M. and arrives at Saratoga Springs same evenings, 
through Dorset, Rupert, Granville, Fort Ann and Sandy 
Hill— fare $2. 



Saratoga Springs and Lake George Stages, leave each 
place every morning at 9 — distance 28 miles. — Proprietors, 
Doney and Patterson. 



Springfield, Mass. and Providence, R. L Stage, leaves 
Springfield, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. 
breakfast at A. Norcross's, Monson, i past 5, arrives in 
Southhridge at ^ past 9, dine at Cady's, Gloucester, R. L 
I past 2 P. M. and arrives in Providence at i past 6 same 
evenings — leaves Providence, Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Saturday at 4 A. M, breakfast at Cady's, Gloucester, I past 



APPENDIX, 367 

7, aiTives in Southbridge at i past 11, and at Norcross's,- 
Monson, i past 2 P. M. and arrives in Springfield at 6 
same evenings, through South Wilbraham, Brimfield, Stur- 
brige, (part of Dudley,) Thompson, Conn. Chepachet, 
Smithfield and North Providence. — Proprietors^ Amos Nor- 
cross, Timothy Packard, Luther Carter, and Joseph Hall, 
Monson ; Lewis Williams, JohnWyles, and M. Converse, 
Brimfield ; James Wolcott, Jr. Samuel A. Groves, E. D. 
Ammedown, William Healy, Jr. and John Upham, South- 
bridge ; H. Cady, Gloucester. — Agents, A. Norcross, H. 
Cady, and W. Healy, Jr. 



United States MaU Coach, leaves the coach office, No. 1, 
Courtlandt-street, New-York, every day at 2 P. M. and 
arrives at Philadelphia next morning at 6 — application for 
seats at the coach and steam boat office. No. 1 Court- 
landt-street, or at the bar of the Northern Hotel, 79 
same street. — ProprietorSj Lyon, Ward, Bailey, & Co. 



Wiscasset, Belfast, and Bangor, Me. Stage, leaves 
Wiscasset, Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday at 2 P. M. and 
arrives in Belfast next days at 10 A. M. via New-Cas- 
tle, Nobleborough, Waldoborough, and Union, and arrives 
in Bangor at 6 P. M. — on Monday and Saturday via 
Frankfort and Hampden, on Wednesday via Bucksport, 
where it arrives at 3 P. M. — on Monday and Saturday a 
branch via Warren and arrives in Thomaston at 9 P. M. 
Sunday, Tuesday and Friday arrives in Belfast at 10 A. M. 
— next days via Camden, Lincolnville, and Northport. — 
Passengers, leaving Portland on Tuesday and Friday may 
arrive in Bangor next days via Augusta or Belfast — leav- 
ing Portland for Bangor on Sunday to avoid delay must 
take the stage for Bath — leaves Bangor on Sunday and 
Tuesday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Belfast at 10 A. M. — 
leaves Belfast, Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday at i past 10, 
and arrives in Wiscasset at 8 A. M. next days — fare from 
Bath ferry to Wiscasset, 50 cts. ; Waldoborough $1 12 ; 
Belfast ^2 ; Bangor ^2 ; whole fare from Portland to 
Bangor v$7 62. 



368 APPENDIX. 



Rochester to Utica,—Fare at 4 cts. per mile. 

Miles. 

From Rochester to Pittsford, 10 

Fullam's Basin, 16 

Palmyra, 29 

Newark, 37 

Lyons, 44 

Clyde, 53 

Montezuma, 64 

Bucksville, 70 

Weed's Basin, 73 

Jordan, 79 

Canton, 85 

9 Mile Creek, . , 9i 

Gecfcles', 97 

Syracuse, 99 

Orville, 105 

Manlius, 108 

Chitteningo, 116 

New Boston 120 

Canastota, 124 

Oneido Creek, 129 

Loomis', 132 

Smith's, 138 

Rome, 149 

Oriskany, 153 

Whitesborough, 156 

TItica, 160 



INDEX. 



A. 

Ackland, Major ^ 1 34 

Lady Harriet, 137 

Albany 42 

Alexandria (D. C.) 338 

Amboy 21 

Amherst 25S 

Ammonoosuc River (Lower) 270 

Andre's Grave 36 

Capture and Execution 34 

Andover 296 

Anthony's Nose, Hudson River 31 

on Erie Canal 60 

Lake George 172 

Antiquities 82, 102, 116, 263, 330 

Aqueduct, Lower, 57 

Upper, 57 

at Little Falls 63 

Rochester, 75 

Arnold's Treachery 34 

Arsenal 251 

Troy, 52 

Q,uebec, 211 

Ascutney Mountain 265 

Assomption River 201 

Attleborough 285 

Auburn 114 

B. 

Baker's Falls 23.0 

Ballston Springs UO 

K k 2 



370 INDEX. 

Baltimore 340- 

Bangor 331 

Bartlett , 310 

Basin Harbour , 184^ 

Batavia 104 

Bath (Maine) 329 

(JV.H.) 270 

(JV.F.) 24 

Battle of Bemis'3 Heights 127 

Bennington 127 

Bloody Brook 259 

Booth Bay 326 

Bridgewater, or Lundy's Lane, 89 

Bunker's Hill 238 

Chippewa 87 

Erie 93 

Groton 275 . 

Johnstown . . . . , 60 

Lake George 165 

Lexington 295 

Pequod 276 

Plattsburgh 185 

Princeton 20 

Quebec 215 

Do. in 1775 217 

Queenston 81 

ilocky Brook 160 

Sachem's Field 281 

Saratoga 147 

Ticonderoga 218 

Trenton 19 

Turner's Falls 261 

White Plains 29 

Beauport 218 

Bellows Falls. 263 

Bethlehem . . . . • 16 

Beverly 319 

Black Rock 99 

Bloody Brook 259 

Pond 160 

Bloomfield , 106 



INDEX. 371 

Blue Hills 286 

Book recommended 25 

Borough 122 

Boston 287 

Bordentown 18 

Brattleborough 262 

Bristol 18 

Brock's Monument 82 

Battery 214 

Brookfield 292 

Buffalo 99 

Bunker's Hill 288 

Burgoyne's (Gen.) Expedition 124 

Battle Ground 129 

Quarters 137 

Retreat 136 

Surrender 155 

Burlington (JV. J.) 185 

( Vermont) 269 

C. 

Caldwell 161 

Canada, General Remarks on^ 94 

Canals. 

Biackstone Canal 285 

Cayuga and Susquehannah do 113 

CLamplain do 55 

Connecticut do 252 

Erie do 342 

Maine do 328 

Massachusetts do 252 

Pennsylvania do 10, 16 

Vermont do. (proposed) 272 

Welland do 273 

Canal Boat, Description of, 50 

Canal Routes. 

From Albany to Schenectady 50 

Auburn to Syracuse 116 

Boston to Chelmsford 295 

Rochester to Lockport 78 

Schenectady to Albany w. . 119 



o72 INDEX. 

From Schenectady to Utica 5S 

Syracuse to Rochester 74 

Syracuse to Utica 117 

Utica to Schenectady 118 

Utica to Syracuse 66 

Canajoharie 60 

Canandaigua 106 

Cape Diamond 212 

Rouge 222 

St. Vincent 98 

Carthage. 73 

Castle of St. Louis 211 

Catskill 37 

Mountains 37 

Caughnawaga 59 

Caj uga Lake Ill 

Cemre Harbour 301 

Chambly 224 

Charleston (S. C.) 334 

Charlestown {Mass.) 288 

(JV.H.) 264 

Charter of Connecticut 243 

Chaudiere River 207 

Chazy 186 

Chelmsford 297 

Chimney Point 181 

Chippewa 87 

Cleaveland 101 

Coal Mines of Pennsylvania 16, 17 

Colleges, 

Amherst 258 

Andover , 296 

Brown 284 

Burlington , 185, 269 

Cambridge 295 

Dartmouth 269 

Hamilton 64 

Yale 233 

Concord 298 

Congress Hall 143 

Spring 149 



INDEX. 373 

Connecticut River • 238 

Navigation of do 271 

Conway 305 

Crawford's House 312 

Crow Point 181 

D. 

Deaf and Dumb Asylums , 224 

Dedham 285 

Deerfield 260 

Delaware River 18 

and Hudson Canal , 16 

and Rariton do 19 

and Susquehannah do 10 

Dieskau (Gen.) 165 

Dobb's Ferry '. 29 

Dorchester Heights 289 

Dover 297 

Dunning-street 123 

I 

lEast Bay 227 

East Canada Creek 60 

Easton 12 

Elizabethtown 21 

Essex {Conn.) , . . . 238 

(JV^. r.) 185 

F. 

Pairfield 231 

, Falls. 

. Baker's 230 

' Bellows 263 

Carthage 76 

Catskill 40 

Glen's 158 

f Ithaca 113 

Miller' 230 

Montmorency 218 

Niagara , 80 



374 INDEX. 

Rochester 76 

South Hadley 251 

Trenton 65 

Turner's 261 

Fishkill Mountain 37 

Franconia 300< 

Frazer's Death 138i 

Grave 136( 

Forts. 

Adams 2 

Anne 2 

Clinton 30i 

Crown Point 181 

Edward 230i 

Green ; 283 

Griswold ; 275 

Herkimer 64 

Hunter . 29 

Independence. 

Lee 

Miller 131i 

Mohawk's 29 

Montgomery 30 

Niagara 47i 

Ohwego 97i 

Plain 60 

Putnum. 3S 

Saybrook 237 

Stanwix ... 66 

Ticondcroga 173 

Trumbull 274 

Washington 28 

William Henry 168 

Wolcott 282 

Fryeburgh 306 

G. 

Galloway 145 

Gates's {Gen.) Camp 12S 

Geddesburgh 72 

Genesee River 96i 



INDEX. 375 

Geneseo 105 

Georgetown (D. C.) 338 

iGerman Flats 63 

.Grand River 101 

Green Bay 101 

Greenfield 250 

tGulf Road 265 

! H. 

iHaddain 239 

iHadley 268 

Hallowel 332 

iHamburgh 13 

Hampton 322 

iHanover 269 

iHarlem A 231 

eartford ( Co»in. ) 243 

ii {Vermont) 184 

Hatfield 258 

Haverhill (Mass.) 297 

(JV. F.) 270 

Hell Gate 232 

Herkimer 64 

(Gen.) 61 

Highlands 30 

Hoboken 27 

Horseneck 231 

Hudson 41 

River 26 

Hunt's Farm 264 

Hydrostatic Locks 53, 64, 71 

I. 

Indians. 

Menominies lOl 

Mohawks 59 

Mohegans 279 

Pokanokets 283 

i Oneidas 67 

Pequods 231, 277 

Senecas 102 

Toscaroras 79 



376 INDEX. 

Islands. 

In Lake Champlain 184 

George 163 

Ontario 134 

Isle Aux Noix 186 

Ithaca 113 



Jacques Cartier 207 

Jarvis's Farm 263 

Johnson {Sir Wm.) 59 

Johnstown 59 

Junction 55 

K. 

Kennebec River 329 

Kennebunk 324 

Kidd, the Pirate 235 

Kingsbricige 29 

Kosciusko's Retreat 32 

Ktardin Mountain 331i 



La Fayette Spring 141 

Lakes. 

Cayuga Ill 

Canandaigua 107) 

Champlain 180 

Erie 91, 100 

George ... 161 

Excursion to, 157 

Of the Clouds 315 

Ontario 91 

St. Peter 205 

Saratoga 151 

Seneca 110 

Winnipiseogee 3O0 

Lancaster 271 

Laprairie 19C 

Lead Mines 241 



INDEX. 377 

Lebanon Springs 44 

Leroy 104 

Lewiston 80 

■■ Lexington 295 

Little Falls 62 

Littleton 270 

Little Schuylkill 14 

Liverpool 73 

Lockport .... 79 

Long-Branch 24 

Long Level 64 

Lorette 212 

Lovel's Fight 308 

Pond 307 

Lundy's Lane 89 

Lynn 318 

M. 

M'Crea's Murder 229 

M'Donough's Victory 185 

Machiche 201 

Maitland's (Sir P.) Residence 81 

Manayunk 12 

JMaps. 

Hudson River 26 and onward. 

Erie Canal 50 and onward. 

Lake Champlain 170 and onward. 

of the Routes I 

Connecticut River 232 

St. Lawrence 200 

Marblehead 320 

Massacre at Fort Wm. Henry 163 

Mauch Chunk 17 

Mechanicville 1 22 

Miantonimo 231 

Middletown 240 

Military Academy — West Point 33 

Middletown 240 

Miller's Falls 230 

Mohawk 59, 61 

Mohegan 277 



378 INDEX. 

Montmorency 218 

Montpelier 266 ^ 

Montreal 192 

Morristown 98 

Mount Carbon 14 

Holyoke 255 

Hope 283 

Vernon 338 

Washington 31dt\ 

N. 

Nahant 290 I 

New-Brunswick 21 

Newburgh 36 

Newburyport 321 

New-Haven 232 

New-Lebanon Springs 44 

New-London 275 

Newport 281 

New- York 22 

Niagara Falls, from American side 80 

Canada side 83 

Norristown 13 

Norwich 279 

Northampton 252 

Notch in the Mountains 312 

House 311 

0. 

Ogdensburgh 98 

Oneida 67 

Orange Springs 37 

Orwigsburgh 14 

Oswego 97 

Canal 71 

Overslaugh 41 

Ox Bow 270 

P. 

Packet Ships 24 

Boats on Canrxis 50 



INDEX. 379 

Palatine 61 

Palisadoes 27 

Paris 310 

Pawtucket 284 

Pequod Indians 231 

Perth Amboy 21 

Philadelphia 5 

Pickwaket Mountain 305 

Piermont 270 

Pine Orchard 38 

Plainfield 281 

Plains of Abraham 215 

Plattsburgh 185 

Port Genesee 96 

Port Kent 185 

Portland 325 

Portsmouth 322 

Poughkeepsie 37 

Princeton 20 

Prisons, (State) 

Maine 330 

Massachusetts 289 

New-York 114 

New-Hampshire 298 

Pennsylvania j 6 

Vermont 265 

Providence 6 284 

Q. 

Quebec 208 

Queenstown 81 

R. 

Ilapids of Niagara 85 

Richelieu 206 

St. Mary 201 

Red Mountain 301 

Reidesel, Baroness, 137 

Rensselaerwyck 50 

Ridge Road 78 



380 INDEX. 

Roads. (See page 344.) 
Routes. (See Tours.) 

Roxbury 285s 

Royalton 266 

S. 

Saco 324 

Sackett's Harbour 97 

St. Johns 18S 

St. Lawrence 191, 200 

Salem 319 

Salina 71 

Salt Springs 73 

Sandusky 101 

Sand) Creek , 77 

Sandy Hill 159 

Sandy Lake 52 

Sans Souci 140 

Saratoga 147 

Saybrook 236 

Schenectady 57 

Schoharie Creek 59 

Scholey's Mountain Springs 24 

Schuyler, Gen 155 

Schuylersville 1 54 

Schuylkill River 11, 12 

Water Works. 8 

Shaker Village 47 

Seneca Indians 102 

Lake 110 

Sorel River 186 

Village 204 

South Bay 226 

Spa, Ballston 140 

Lebanon > 44 

Saratoga 147 

Springs. 

Ballston 140 

Burning 87, 107 

New-Lebanon 44 

(Saratoga 147 



INDEX. 381 

Suffield 249 

White Mountains 306 

Springfield 250 

Squam Lake 304 

StaflFord 344 

Staten Island 21 

Steam Boats. 

From New- York up the Hudson 26, 27 

New-York to Connecticut 22 

New- York to Rhode Island 22 

on Cayuga Lake Ill 

on Lake Champlain 224 

on Lakr George 163 

on Lake Ontario 96 

on Lake Erie . 101 

on the St. Lawrence , 200 

Stillwater 123 

Stoninjjton 276 

Stony Point 30 

Suffield 249 

Sugar-Loaf Hill 259 

Syracuse 70 

T. 

Table Rock , 84 

Tarrytown 29 

Thames River 277 

Thimble Islands 235 

Thomastown 330 

Three Rivers • 205 

Ticonderoga 173, 225 

Tour of Maine 313 

of New-England 231 

to Niagara 50 

to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines 9 

to Quebec 157 

to the White Mountains 295 

L12 



382 INDEX. 

U. 

Uncas 279 

Utica 64 

y. 

Vernon (Mount) , 338 

Verpianck's Point 20 

W. 

Wadsworth's Farm 105 

Walpole (N. U.) 262 

(Mass.) 285 

Ware 293 

Washington 336 

Waterloo (N. Y.) 113 

(Canada) 93 

Waterford 121 

Water Gap 14 

Weed's Basin 74 

Weehawken 27 

Weigh Locks 53, 64, 71 

Welles , 327 

West Canada Creek 65 

West Point 33 

Wethersfield, (Con.) 232 

(Verm.) 264 

Whirlpool 83 

Whitehall 227 

White Mountains 313 

River 265 

Wiscasset 329 

Wolfe's Cove 207 

Wood Creek, near L. Champlain 228 

Worcester 247 

Y. 
York 323 



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